Thanks for all the help with my previous posting. I'm going with a
Makita based on my own prior experience with them, and recommendations
posted here. Now it's just coming down to tradeoffs with chuck,
torque, battery, weight. With weight and torque being the biggest
differences in my "top 4". I'm curious to see what you say is an
ideal torque rating for basic around the house work, including an
upcoming kitchen renovation and cabinet installation project (the
reason I'm replacing my current worn-out Craftsman ). If I can save
almost a pound, but it comes at a price of "only" getting 310 in-lbs,
is that not worth it? Or, on the other hand, if I can get 450 in-lbs
in a drill just over 5 pounds is that just a no-brainer?
These are all about the same cost (refurbished), so I've settled on
the following. Your thoughts?
Model - chuck - voltage - torque (in-lbs) - battery/watt hours -
weight
6339 - 1/2" - 14.4 - 450 - 2.6Ah/37.4 - 5.1lbs
6236 - 3/8" - 14.4 - 330 - 2.2Ah/31.7 - 4.9lbs
6337 - 1/2" - 14.4 - 350 - 2.6Ah/37.4 - 4.6lbs
6217 - 3/8" - 12.0 - 310 - 2.6Ah/31.2 - 4.4lbs
Thanks again...
> IMHO the lighter weight the better.
In all the years of ww I have never needed a chuck with 1/2" capacity
> for a hand drill.
> If you need moor power on those rare occasions a much cheaper corded
drill
> will compete with just about any high voltage battery operated drill.
I'm with Leon. I think everyone should own a corded drill as a backup for
high-torque/marathon drilling and driving. A more ergonomic (lightweight)
cordless will meet 90% you needs.
That said, I did have to spring for a 1/2" corded Milwaukee last year to
cover the 10% of the remaining of the 10% religated the 3/8" Corded Drill
:-)
-Steve
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<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for all the help with my previous posting. I'm going with a
> Makita based on my own prior experience with them, and recommendations
> posted here. Now it's just coming down to tradeoffs with chuck,
> torque, battery, weight. With weight and torque being the biggest
> differences in my "top 4". I'm curious to see what you say is an
> ideal torque rating for basic around the house work, including an
> upcoming kitchen renovation and cabinet installation project (the
> reason I'm replacing my current worn-out Craftsman ). If I can save
> almost a pound, but it comes at a price of "only" getting 310 in-lbs,
> is that not worth it? Or, on the other hand, if I can get 450 in-lbs
> in a drill just over 5 pounds is that just a no-brainer?
>
> These are all about the same cost (refurbished), so I've settled on
> the following. Your thoughts?
>
> Model - chuck - voltage - torque (in-lbs) - battery/watt hours -
> weight
> 6339 - 1/2" - 14.4 - 450 - 2.6Ah/37.4 - 5.1lbs
> 6236 - 3/8" - 14.4 - 330 - 2.2Ah/31.7 - 4.9lbs
> 6337 - 1/2" - 14.4 - 350 - 2.6Ah/37.4 - 4.6lbs
> 6217 - 3/8" - 12.0 - 310 - 2.6Ah/31.2 - 4.4lbs
>
> Thanks again...
IMHO the lighter weight the better. I would go for the fastest RPM and
then decide from there. I prefer a drill and impact driver for the tough
work. In all the years of ww I have never needed a chuck with 1/2" capacity
for a hand drill. I leave that stuff for the DP. Take care to not try to
get a drill that fills all qualifications as they seldom do every thing
well. Consider your needs and go with that drill that fills the bill the
best.
If it were me and after considering rpm's I would do with the 12 volt, it
will not tire you out as quickly.
If you need moor power on those rare occasions a much cheaper corded drill
will compete with just about any high voltage battery operated drill.
Your corded DeWalt 1/2" impact is way too much for furniture and cabinet
building. Save it for automotive and deck building projects when you are
using quality hardened fasteners. That impact will twist typical fasteners
heads off quickly.
I use a Makita 12 volt drill driver and a Makita 12 volt impact driver. The
12 volt impact driver has much more torque than most 24 volt drills.