<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So I bought some paper backed walnut veneer. I asked the clerk at the
> store about glueing methods. He said he only knew about using contact
> cement. I have been reading all the reasons to not use contact cement.
> My question is, can I use the iron on method with paper backed?
>
I used paper back oak veneer to cover door jambs that were "plastic covered
wood grain" I only lightly sanded them and used contact cement to attach.
That was 16 years ago. Still in great condition. I built a large computer
desk with 3/4 inch partical board, dense type. used some mahogany veneer
and contact cement. 9 years and holding up . WW
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jldove wrote...
> So I bought some paper backed walnut veneer. I asked the clerk at the
> store about glueing methods. He said he only knew about using contact
> cement. I have been reading all the reasons to not use contact cement.
> My question is, can I use the iron on method with paper backed?
You can do everything with paper-backed that you can do with plain venner;
the paper-backed is a little more forgiving and easier to use is all.
I wouldn't use contact cement with any veneer except phenolic-backed.
Only tried the iron-on method once just to see what the fuss was about, but
didn't see any advantages over other methods already available in my shop.
IMO, hide glue with a venner hammer is easier and more dependable, but that
might just be a matter of using what youre familiar and most comfortable
with.
I had a bad experience using titebond for veneer back when I was just a
little woodworker. I veneered a nice pattern of walnut crotches and burls
on a desktop, and it came out great. That night, the relative humidity
dropped from 80% to 40% or something ridiculus like that, and the desktop
was trash. The titebond was expanding and contract _a lot_ with the
humidity, and taking my veneer along with it. That's when I started using
hide glue for radiused surfaces and Weldwood urea formaldehyde glue or
Titebond cold press in the veneer press. I like the weldwood a little more,
but the titebond cold press is a lot easier to use (no mixing).
Thanks for your post - reminded me I just used up the last of the
crossbanding, so I ordered more + perforated tape (don't like the plain tape
I have now as much) + some 2 part urea formaldehyde veneer glue that
Constantines sells - I have some swell quilted birdseye maple veneers to try
it out on!
--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm
I used Weldwood solvent based contact cement with good results with paper
backed mahogany veneer.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So I bought some paper backed walnut veneer. I asked the clerk at the
> store about glueing methods. He said he only knew about using contact
> cement. I have been reading all the reasons to not use contact cement.
> My question is, can I use the iron on method with paper backed?
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So I bought some paper backed walnut veneer. I asked the clerk at the
> store about glueing methods. He said he only knew about using contact
> cement. I have been reading all the reasons to not use contact cement.
> My question is, can I use the iron on method with paper backed?
>
I used paper back oak veneer to cover door jambs that were "plastic covered
wood grain" I only lightly sanded them and used contact cement to attach.
That was 16 years ago. Still in great condition. I built a large computer
desk with 3/4 inch partical board, dense type. used some mahogany veneer
and contact cement. 9 years and holding up . WW