A few recent posts extolling the virtues of BLO (boiled linseed oil) got me to
wondering. Are the results really that much different from other oil finishes? I
haven't used pure BLO, although various oil finishs I remember using include
General Finishes Tung Oil, Watco, different MinWax blends, and Liberon. The
biggest differences I've seen in side-by-side comparisons have to do with
application techniques. Am I likely to see a big difference if I get some pure
BLO to try?
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 19:11:36 GMT, JeffB <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Are the results really that much different from other oil finishes?
Much more yellowing than tung
"JeffB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A few recent posts extolling the virtues of BLO (boiled linseed oil) got
me to
> wondering. Are the results really that much different from other oil
finishes? I
> haven't used pure BLO, although various oil finishs I remember using
include
> General Finishes Tung Oil, Watco, different MinWax blends, and Liberon.
The
> biggest differences I've seen in side-by-side comparisons have to do with
> application techniques. Am I likely to see a big difference if I get some
pure
> BLO to try?
>
Oil without resin is soft, takes a long time to dry, and doesn't add any
"look-through" brilliance.
If that's what you're after, and minimal protection, it should work.
"lgb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <qIX5e.4087$hB6.1577@trnddc06>, [email protected] says...
> > lgb wrote:
>
> > > I've got a gallon of "teak oil" I picked up at a garage sale.
> > > Supposedly great for boats. Anyone used this stuff? How did it work
> > > out?
> >
> > A better name is "oil for teak" (can be used for anywood, not for teak
> > exclusively). It works fine if you want to keep the teak from
> > weathering. So does linseed oil.
> >
>
> I kind of knew that - I was planning on using it on alder :-). But I
> wondered if its attributes were different from BLO in any significant
> way.
>
I suppose if you had been schooled at home you'd have been told to look it
up.
http://www.metacrawler.com/info.metac/search/web/MSDS%2Bteak%2Boil/1/-/1/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/1
"Jason Quick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Teu6e.8206$up2.1831@okepread01...
>
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote :
>
> > Most "tung oil finishes" are mostly linseed oil. Shame the
> > manufacturers no longer have to list contents and percentages.
>
> Okay, whaddya do with *real* tung oil then? Straight on, or mix with,
say,
> turpentine? Or mineral spirits? Alcohol? Acetone? Or what? Different
> diluents for different woods?
>
Same as BLO. If straight, better have a lot of patience. Thin with turps
or mineral spirits. Add resins and a siccative and you've got Danish or
Tung oil finish.
I am not sure why anyone with a nose can't tell the difference between
Linseed and Tung oils, but apparently there are some.
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:38:39 -0500, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thought a light oil would help.
Adding oil to wax is a bad idea anyway. Even too much turpentine is a
problem.
Wax needs to be softened so that you can apply it and buff it out,
then you want it to harden. You don't want to leave a stable oil (like
kerosene behind) as it stops the buffing working and you don't want a
drying oil as it will hide the buffed effect by submerging the wax
within the oil. What you want is a pure solvent that evaporates.
If you want a lighter wax, try the "creamed wax" formulations with a
few % of ammonia.
For fine work on leather, I use cyclohexane - a light and easily
evaporated solvent (highly flammable though).
Jason Quick wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote :
>
>> Most "tung oil finishes" are mostly linseed oil. Shame the
>> manufacturers no longer have to list contents and percentages.
>
> Okay, whaddya do with *real* tung oil then? Straight on, or mix
> with, say, turpentine? Or mineral spirits? Alcohol? Acetone? Or
> what? Different diluents for different woods?
Mix about 1:4 with mineral spirits.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 19:11:36 GMT, JeffB <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Are the results really that much different from other oil finishes?
>
> Much more yellowing than tung
>
I've got a gallon of "teak oil" I picked up at a garage sale.
Supposedly great for boats. Anyone used this stuff? How did it work
out?
--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
In article <qIX5e.4087$hB6.1577@trnddc06>, [email protected] says...
> lgb wrote:
> > I've got a gallon of "teak oil" I picked up at a garage sale.
> > Supposedly great for boats. Anyone used this stuff? How did it work
> > out?
>
> A better name is "oil for teak" (can be used for anywood, not for teak
> exclusively). It works fine if you want to keep the teak from
> weathering. So does linseed oil.
>
I kind of knew that - I was planning on using it on alder :-). But I
wondered if its attributes were different from BLO in any significant
way.
--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
In article <[email protected]>, george@least says...
> >
>
> I suppose if you had been schooled at home you'd have been told to look it
> up.
>
Nice one, George :-).
But after looking at 3 pages of manufacturers propaganda sites from
Google, I was trying to hear from a poster here who had actually used
the stuff and wasn't trying to sell it. I guess there aren't any.
--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote :
> Most "tung oil finishes" are mostly linseed oil. Shame the
> manufacturers no longer have to list contents and percentages.
Okay, whaddya do with *real* tung oil then? Straight on, or mix with, say,
turpentine? Or mineral spirits? Alcohol? Acetone? Or what? Different
diluents for different woods?
Recently made a step-stool for His Majesty (4 years old) to use around the
house, mainly to climb into his big ol' captain's bed. Red oak (mostly
dumpster salvage, actually), finished with a couple coats of BLO and
turpentine with a bit of Watco Fruitwood mixed in. Produced a lovely golden
color. Sprayed some satin poly on top for durability and - done.
Jason
lgb wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, george@least says...
>>>
>>
>> I suppose if you had been schooled at home you'd have been told to
>> look it up.
>>
>
> Nice one, George :-).
>
> But after looking at 3 pages of manufacturers propaganda sites from
> Google, I was trying to hear from a poster here who had actually used
> the stuff and wasn't trying to sell it. I guess there aren't any.
Not true. I've used many gallons (all bought and paid for) and as I
said, it works fine.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 02:19:09 +0000, dadiOH wrote:
> BTW, if you hate the odor of stuff that has been oiled (I do) get some
> oil of wintergreen at the drugstore and add a couple of ounces of it per
> gallon to the finishing oil...still smells but smells better.
Hmm. One could use almost any essential oil for scenting one's BLO. (I
know, wintergreen is an ester.) I prefer the nutty smell of BLO to the
ointment smell of wintergreen myself. But oh the possibilities: vanilla
shellac, patchouli paste wax...
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 08:05:34 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote:
> Hey, those last two are great ideas for products to sell to New Agers
> and Hippies.
Well, I have noticed that the racks of essential oils are most often found
in new-age type stores, so you may have something there. I'm just
interested in killing the awful smell of my homemade beeswax-kero-turps
substitute for camillia oil. (It works, though. Pill bottle stuffed with a
rolled up piece of flannel makes a good spreader.)
For the OP, I've been using BLO for tool handles ever since a discussion
here a while back. Doesn't matter if the color changes; it'll get grubby
anyway.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 01:53:03 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:
> Use real turpentine and skip the kerosene
Yeah, I added the kerosene after reading here (or maybe r.c.metalworking)
that WD-40 contained kerosene. Thought a light oil would help. Maybe a
_different_ light oil for next batch--not thread-cutting oil, though!
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 15:10:58 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:
> If you want a lighter wax, try the "creamed wax" formulations with a
> few % of ammonia.
>
> For fine work on leather, I use cyclohexane - a light and easily
> evaporated solvent (highly flammable though).
Just to clarify this thread a bit, I was using the gunk to coat tools'
metal parts. My homemade paste wax for wood has just enough mineral
spirits to dissolve the beeswax. I like your cyclohexane idea for that
purpose. (Carnauba's in the mail now.)
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 22:39:38 -0500, the inscrutable Australopithecus
scobis <[email protected]> spake:
>On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 02:19:09 +0000, dadiOH wrote:
>
>> BTW, if you hate the odor of stuff that has been oiled (I do) get some
>> oil of wintergreen at the drugstore and add a couple of ounces of it per
>> gallon to the finishing oil...still smells but smells better.
>
>Hmm. One could use almost any essential oil for scenting one's BLO. (I
>know, wintergreen is an ester.) I prefer the nutty smell of BLO to the
>ointment smell of wintergreen myself. But oh the possibilities: vanilla
>shellac, patchouli paste wax...
Hey, those last two are great ideas for products to sell to New Agers
and Hippies. OR, their use would enhance sales of so-coated objects to
the aforementioned epidem^H^H^H^H^H^Hsocietal groups.
--
A lot of folks can't understand how we came
to have an oil shortage here in America.
Well, there's a very simple answer...nobody
bothered to check the oil; We just didn't
know we were getting low.
The reason for that is purely geographical
- our OIL is located in Alaska, California,
Oklahoma and Texas.
Our DIPSTICKS are located in Washington, DC.
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 12:02:04 -0500, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>the awful smell of my homemade beeswax-kero-turps
Use real turpentine and skip the kerosene
lgb wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>> On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 19:11:36 GMT, JeffB <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Are the results really that much different from other oil finishes?
>>
>> Much more yellowing than tung
>>
> I've got a gallon of "teak oil" I picked up at a garage sale.
> Supposedly great for boats. Anyone used this stuff? How did it work
> out?
A better name is "oil for teak" (can be used for anywood, not for teak
exclusively). It works fine if you want to keep the teak from
weathering. So does linseed oil.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
JeffB wrote:
> A few recent posts extolling the virtues of BLO (boiled linseed oil)
> got me to wondering. Are the results really that much different from
> other oil finishes? I haven't used pure BLO, although various oil
> finishs I remember using include General Finishes Tung Oil, Watco,
> different MinWax blends, and Liberon. The biggest differences I've
> seen in side-by-side comparisons have to do with application
> techniques. Am I likely to see a big difference if I get some pure
> BLO to try?
Most "tung oil finishes" are mostly linseed oil. Shame the
manufacturers no longer have to list contents and percentages.
Plain boiled linseed oil will oxidize to a fairly dark amber in a couple
of years. The result is not unattractive but can look blotchy if it was
absorbed differentially into light colored wood.
The same is true for the ersatz "tung oil finishes"...oxidize to the
same (or close to) color as BLO. Got an old can of it around? Look at
the dried oil around the can opening...
Biggest difference between BLO and others like Watco is that the others
have a lot more driers in them.
BTW, if you hate the odor of stuff that has been oiled (I do) get some
oil of wintergreen at the drugstore and add a couple of ounces of it per
gallon to the finishing oil...still smells but smells better.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico