Awhile back I was banging the Newsgroup with the idea that shellac was
the be all and end all of rust preventers on cast iron equipment.
Over the last two weeks I have had the opportunity to work with
equipment that I shellacked last December.
It didn't work.
I've got major rust on equipment that was treated with shellac.
I was hoping for the killer app - I wound up with something that
might, and I mean MIGHT increase the time needed between treatments
with more traditional barrier coats.
I'm sorry if I lead anyone else down the wrong path.
(watson - who thought it was going so well after a couple of months -
but doesn't think so now.)
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Sounds as the rust formed by moisture and air slowly passing through the
finish. But why did you expect anything different? Most finishes differ only
in the rate at which this happens. Had a small table with a poly finish, and
SWMBO insisted on keeping her water fountain on top, and it spit out a light
spray. After a few months, the top turned gray. Also, if any of these finishes
could completely stop this, we wouldn't have to plan for and worry about wood
expansion, would we?
GerryG
On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 19:38:30 -0700, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]>
wrote:
><snip>
>
> Wonder what that implies regarding the utility of shellac as a finish
>relative to protecting the wood from moisture? Seems like this implies
>that shellac has very little, other than looks, going for it.
>
> Which BTW, is too bad, I like the look of shellac and the ease of
>application.
>
>
>>
>>
>>Regards,
>>Tom.
>>
>>"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
>>
>>Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
>>tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
>>http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 18:57:01 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote:
>Awhile back I was banging the Newsgroup with the idea that shellac was
>the be all and end all of rust preventers on cast iron equipment.
>
>Over the last two weeks I have had the opportunity to work with
>equipment that I shellacked last December.
>
>It didn't work.
>
>I've got major rust on equipment that was treated with shellac.
>
So did the rust get under the shellac? Did the shellac get delaminated
from the surface as the surface rusted, or did the surface under the
shellac rust while the shellac remained intact and in-place?
>I was hoping for the killer app - I wound up with something that
>might, and I mean MIGHT increase the time needed between treatments
>with more traditional barrier coats.
>
>I'm sorry if I lead anyone else down the wrong path.
>
>(watson - who thought it was going so well after a couple of months -
>but doesn't think so now.)
>
Wonder what that implies regarding the utility of shellac as a finish
relative to protecting the wood from moisture? Seems like this implies
that shellac has very little, other than looks, going for it.
Which BTW, is too bad, I like the look of shellac and the ease of
application.
>
>
>Regards,
>Tom.
>
>"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
>
>Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
>tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
>http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Tom Watson writes:
>Awhile back I was banging the Newsgroup with the idea that shellac was
>the be all and end all of rust preventers on cast iron equipment.
>
>Over the last two weeks I have had the opportunity to work with
>equipment that I shellacked last December.
>
>It didn't work.
>
>I've got major rust on equipment that was treated with shellac.
>
>I was hoping for the killer app - I wound up with something that
>might, and I mean MIGHT increase the time needed between treatments
>with more traditional barrier coats.
My best results overall have recently been obtained using homemade wax.
Shopmade. Approximately normal bits of beeswax, paraffin and a good bit more
carnauba, with coats put on the table saw using steel wool. It was then buffed
with a cordless power buffer. Incredibly slick as well as super shiny.
Anyone who wants to try this might be able to work it with two ounces of
regular wax (Johnson's Butcher, Minwax, )etc. plus about a half ounce of
carnauba. Carnauba is what adds the hard to most waxes. Too much makes it a bit
flaky, but some extra just makes it harder (and a real bitch to hand buff).
Charlie Self
"Half of the American people have never read a newspaper. Half never voted for
President. One hopes it is the same half." Gore Vidal
On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 05:27:06 GMT, Michael Baglio <[email protected]>
wrote:
><head scratching> Tom, I'm in my... hmm... 3rd? 4th? month of
>shellac base with wax topper and no rust yet. Never got that kind of
>wear with wax alone, so, so far, so good. So, thanks.
I didn't put the wax on after the shellac. Might give that a try.
I'm in a really bad spot, down in a valley, next to a stream. On high
humidity days the rafters drip.
The biggest problem is that I'm not in the shop everyday. Use seems
to be the best rust preventer - for people too.
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Unisaw A100 wrote:
> Yahbut, it's the third magazine I've been in and well, I'm
> not bragging or nothing but, well, it's the third magazine
> I've been in.
>
> sigh...
>
> UA100
Congratulations! See:
http://www.google.com/groups?q=buff+boy+group:rec.woodworking&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=8q0r9tkh9peqk6prfp62u7q0tf65ivr5hn%404ax.com&rnum=1
(RD&G)
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well Tom, I have the solution. Problem is you'll have to
> pack up all the 'chines there by the mill and ship here to
> the Sout' end of the Tamarack.
similar thought crossed my mind...
I think a high humidity day in Denver is 2%.
>
> UA100, who has never shellacked, waxed, Boeshielded or
> anything to any machine and has been rust free the entire
> time...
Yabut - the nosebleeds...
Saw ya quoted in PW. Kewl!
Figure it was only 60-90 seconds tops, so you ought'a have 13 1/2 or 14
minutes left! :)
On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 19:30:22 GMT, Pat Barber
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Live 3 miles from Atlantic and 200 yds from a
>salt marsh.
>
>Lots and lots of TopCote.... wish I could buy it in
>bulk and put it on with a garden sprayer.
Pat, maybe you need the homebrew version. Here's a recipe from 10
years ago. I've not tried it, but there seemed to be a lot of
positive comments at the time...
original follows--
----------------------------------
From: John Pierce ([email protected])
Subject: Re: Router Bit Coatings
Date: 1994-03-31 06:07:24 PST
I use another low-cost method. Get a big glass jar. Then go the
supermarket and get one of the packages of paraffin for canning (they
are pretty cheap).
Use a chisel to slice off some paraffin chunks into the jar: enough
to cover the bottom and maybe a bit more. Then fill the jar the rest
of the way with pure mineral spirits. Let it sit.
What you have here is a low-cost, low-viscosity solution that will put
the paraffin in every nook and cranny of whatever you're working with.
After the mineral spirits evaporate, It leaves a *thin* paraffin
layer. You can buff this if you want.
Keep the jar handy and dip small tools after sharpening. You can also
brush it on. That's what I use on by bandsaw table.
Another advantage is that you don't have to heat the paraffin, thereby
risking a fire.
----------------------------
end original
Michael
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:23:23 -0500, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Larry Jauqes
>>But is he the cause of the mandate or the result? <bseg>
>
>
>'Murican Wooddorker, it's rumored, has an upcoming issue
>featuring The Men of Rec.Wooddorking.
>
>You heard it here first. Now, avert your eyes.
>
>UA100
not with me in it...
if I suck in my gut, the edge of my bench doesn't get dusted..
Mac
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:34:23 -0400, Nova <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>Unisaw A100 wrote:
>
>> Yahbut, it's the third magazine I've been in and well, I'm
>> not bragging or nothing but, well, it's the third magazine
>> I've been in.
>>
>> sigh...
>>
>> UA100
>
>Congratulations! See:
> http://www.google.com/groups?q=buff+boy+group:rec.woodworking&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=8q0r9tkh9peqk6prfp62u7q0tf65ivr5hn%404ax.com&rnum=1
>
>(RD&G)
But is he the cause of the mandate or the result? <bseg>
-------------------------------------------------------------
* * Humorous T-shirts Online
* Norm's Got Strings * Wondrous Website Design
* * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------------------
patrick conroy wrote:
>similar thought crossed my mind...
>I think a high humidity day in Denver is 2%.
I m'member that during my brief residence there. Seemed
like all you wanted to do was pick your nose all day. On
the up side, the snow usually dried up before it melted. On
the down side, pitted windshields (wind screens Andy).
>Yabut - the nosebleeds...
See! Ya pick and ya pick and before you know it your skull
comes crashing down.
>Saw ya quoted in PW. Kewl!
>Figure it was only 60-90 seconds tops, so you ought'a have 13 1/2 or 14
>minutes left! :)
Yahbut, it's the third magazine I've been in and well, I'm
not bragging or nothing but, well, it's the third magazine
I've been in.
sigh...
UA100
Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Awhile back I was banging the Newsgroup with the idea that shellac was
> the be all and end all of rust preventers on cast iron equipment.
>
I thought that sellac was corrosive to ferrous metal which is
why cans of premixed shellac are lined on the inside with a
protective coating.
--
FF
Fred the Red Shirt asks:
>Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:<[email protected]>...
>> Awhile back I was banging the Newsgroup with the idea that shellac was
>> the be all and end all of rust preventers on cast iron equipment.
>>
>
>I thought that sellac was corrosive to ferrous metal which is
>why cans of premixed shellac are lined on the inside with a
>protective coating.
AFAIK, shellac is OK on iron, but tin cans are usually lined with tin (or
whatever these days)...most items will eventully draw water to them after
opening, thus creating at least a potential for rust. The lining, I'm told, is
to prevent rust from that source. There are vegetables that do create such a
problem, and most of those cans today have some kind of white lining, a plastic
I think.
Charlie Self
"Ambition is a poor excuse for not having sense enough to be lazy." Edgar
Bergen, (Charlie McCarthy)
On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 19:39:46 -0500, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 20:50:23 +0000, Charlie Self wrote:
>
>> problem, and most of those cans today have some kind of white lining, a
>> plastic
>
>Which makes them just dandy to hold small quantities of the finish of your
>choice whilst applying same.
>
>-
damn.. that's just too logical for this early in the morning...
Mac
On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 18:57:01 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Awhile back I was banging the Newsgroup with the idea that shellac was
>the be all and end all of rust preventers on cast iron equipment.
>
>Over the last two weeks I have had the opportunity to work with
>equipment that I shellacked last December.
>
>It didn't work. I've got major rust on equipment that was treated with shellac.
<head scratching> Tom, I'm in my... hmm... 3rd? 4th? month of
shellac base with wax topper and no rust yet. Never got that kind of
wear with wax alone, so, so far, so good. So, thanks.
Michael
Who thinks maybe one day he oughtta just do what the manufacturer says
and _talc_ the whole thing and see what happens...
On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 09:03:31 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Well Tom, I have the solution. Problem is you'll have to
>pack up all the 'chines there by the mill and ship here to
>the Sout' end of the Tamarack.
>
>UA100, who has never shellacked, waxed, Boeshielded or
>anything to any machine and has been rust free the entire
>time...
I don't know how you get away with it, Keeter - living next to a swamp
an all.
I wonder what guys go through who have shopsnear the ocean.
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Live 3 miles from Atlantic and 200 yds from a
salt marsh.
Lots and lots of TopCote.... wish I could buy it in
bulk and put it on with a garden sprayer.
It is very $$$ but it works...
Tom Watson wrote:
> I don't know how you get away with it, Keeter - living next to a swamp
> an all.
>
> I wonder what guys go through who have shopsnear the ocean.
>
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:23:23 -0500, Unisaw A100 wrote:
> Larry Jauqes
>>But is he the cause of the mandate or the result? <bseg>
>
>
> 'Murican Wooddorker, it's rumored, has an upcoming issue featuring The Men
> of Rec.Wooddorking.
>
> You heard it here first. Now, avert your eyes.
I was going to be a part of that issue. But they wanted me to pose in
front of my bandsaw with its covers open. I had to turn 'em down. Preverts.
--
Joe Wells
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:34:23 -0400, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Unisaw A100 wrote:
>
>> Yahbut, it's the third magazine I've been in and well, I'm
>> not bragging or nothing but, well, it's the third magazine
>> I've been in.
>>
>> sigh...
>>
>> UA100
>
>Congratulations! See:
>
> http://www.google.com/groups?q=buff+boy+group:rec.woodworking&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=8q0r9tkh9peqk6prfp62u7q0tf65ivr5hn%404ax.com&rnum=1
>
>(RD&G)
You made me look.
Yer a monkey!
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1