For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
how to over come the problems.
My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
loosen.
The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.
Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.
The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
this way straight out of the box.
The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
style screw handles.
For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.
Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
head. That worked for a few years but......
Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.
If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
this may be your fix.
I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
lubricate the threads of the screw.
I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
locating his spot.
Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?
On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 10:14:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
=20
> I guess some of us use our clamps more than others. ;~)
But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from a comm=
ent on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left the track the =
second post after yours...
I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its grinding feel a=
fter use. I was told back in the mid 70s (when the whole shop had somethin=
g like 10 Pony pipe clamps!)to put a drop or two of "3 in 1" just where the=
clamp screw rotates in the clamp face. it was explained to me that the he=
avy clamping pressure could/would gall the inside of the contact surfaces a=
nd make them have that grinding feeling when compressing. About every 4 or=
5 glue ups we would hand the pipes on a boards and apply the oil. We used=
those clamps for everything. Remember a day with no Besseys, no cabinet c=
lamps like we know them today. I still have some 50 year old Pony clamps a=
nd even have two ancient bar clamps from the 1920s. The Pony clamps are use=
d on occasion, but the bar clamps are bent and are more of a curiosity.
Strangely, I hadn't thought of it, but your comment hit home. I rarely use=
clamps anymore. My squeeze clamps are in constant use for all manner of t=
hings, sometimes just an extra set of holding hands. But my Besseys, my ol=
d Irwins, my no name aluminum bar clamps, and my Stanley brand pipe clamps =
and Ponys haven't been touched in a really long time.
I do appreciate the comment on the wood Jorgensons. I have watched mine "r=
elax" more than once, and gave all but one or two away since I thought they=
were defective! I thought the dirty threads would make them stick more, b=
ut if you think about it, the dirt probably acted more as a lubricant, keep=
ing the friction quotient too low for them to work properly. That's a good=
tip!
Robert
On 2/11/2017 9:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 2/7/17 1:23 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
>> need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
>>
>> You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
>> steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
>> tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
>> instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Amen!
>
> I have/had the same problem, thought the threads were galling in the
> clamp. Grease helped but not as much as I had hoped.
>
> A few drops of oil with a swamp cooler oiler did the trick. The oilers
> long plastic tube reaches to the area where the ball of the screw enters
> into the "foot".
>
> -BR
>
I guess some of us use our clamps more than others. ;~)
On 2/13/2017 5:56 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote: .
>>> But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got
>>> from a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the
>>> engine left the track the second post after yours...
>>
>> LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many
>> tangents.
>
> Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:
>
> Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps. 1st
> response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps. 2nd response: Hah!
> My sister in law weighs a ton! 3rd response: She is lucky the nanny
> state police don't get on her about her weight! 4th response: Screw
> safety devices. We may not be forced to use them yet, but the nanny
> state could make us one day. Down with retail tyranny and heavy
> handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger before they can
> get to me to try to keep me from exercising my right to do it! 5th
> response: I like pie! 6th response: Me too!
>
>
>>> I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its
>>> grinding feel after use.
>>
>> I had no doubt that you would already know this.
>
> Well... with 40 plus years of doing this stuff for days/weeks/years
> on end you are bound to learn something. Even then, note that I
> pointed out someone showed me how to take care of that problem. That
> could be one of those things (like my comment on my Jorgensons) that
> I just never figured out.
>
> The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds
> of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small
> stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful//
> yet go unnoticed.
>
> Robert
>
Unnoticed being the key word. Or possibly the clamps are not being used
enough to need any TLC, YET. ;~)
On Tuesday, February 7, 2017 at 4:43:14 PM UTC-8, Doug Miller wrote:
> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:GaudnZv5WLN9pAfFnZ2dnUU7-
> [email protected]:
> > Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
> > if you weld, never use either.
>
> Repeat: IF YOU WELD, NEVER USE EITHER.
>
> > if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
> > possibility ... Phosgene, I think. Anyway, it's a *nasty* bastard.
The cleaner component that causes problems is carbon tetrachloride/perchlorethylene/methylene chloride and such.
Those are VOLATILE compounds, with warnings to only use with good ventilation,
and a day after applying them, they aren't on the apparatus.
You should also only weld with good ventilation. Ozone is nasty, too. And NO2, and so on.
Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> As I indicated in my original post where I posted the MSGS sheet, not
> all brake cleaners on carburator cleaners are created equal. I posted
> a cleaner based on Methylene Chloride. You posted a brake cleaner
> that contains tetraChloroethylene. The one I use Supertech contains
> Acetone, Toluene, and Methanol and no chlorohydrocarbons. While they
> are all flamable, and volatile, they are completely different
> materials in the health hazards, and must be treated differently.
>
I believe tetrachloroethylene and know methylene chloride are the key
ingredients in plastic welding solvents. It's not just welding you need to
keep them away from, but many plastics.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds
> of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small
> stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful// yet
> go unnoticed.
>
> Robert
Hint taken, I'll add this to my little rec.working archive soon!
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:6YmdndxUrbFtHj_FnZ2dnUU7-I-
[email protected]:
>
>
> Does this mean I am being published? yipeeee LOL
Yes, but Swingman's still my number 1. :-)
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On 2/13/2017 5:56 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
> .
>>> But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
>>> a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
>>> the track the second post after yours...
>>
>> LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many tangents.
>
> Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:
>
> Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps.
> 1st response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps.
> 2nd response: Hah! My sister in law weighs a ton!
> 3rd response: She is lucky the nanny state police don't get on her about her weight!
> 4th response: Screw safety devices. We may not be forced to use them yet, but the nanny state could make us one day. Down with retail tyranny and heavy handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger before they can get to me to try to keep me from exercising my right to do it!
> 5th response: I like pie!
> 6th response: Me too!
OK! I reread that with some whiskey and WOW that was funny!!!
On 2/13/2017 9:51 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds
>> of different professionals all in the same field. It's the small
>> stuff like the tips like the one you posted that are //so useful// yet
>> go unnoticed.
>>
>> Robert
>
> Hint taken, I'll add this to my little rec.working archive soon!
>
> Puckdropper
>
Does this mean I am being published? yipeeee LOL
On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 4:26:57 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
[on clamp maintenance]
> Unnoticed being the key word. Or possibly the clamps are not being used
> enough to need any TLC, YET. ;~)
One of my favorite glue clamps is a piece of 2x6. A one foot section
of steel, 2" by 6" cross section, weighs about 40 lbs. It's very low maintenance,
and in conjunction with some polyethylene foam, clamps even irregular surfaces effectively.
On 2/13/2017 10:16 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/13/2017 5:56 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>> .
>>>> But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
>>>> a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
>>>> the track the second post after yours...
>>>
>>> LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many
>>> tangents.
>>
>> Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:
>>
>> Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps.
>> 1st response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps.
>> 2nd response: Hah! My sister in law weighs a ton!
>> 3rd response: She is lucky the nanny state police don't get on her
>> about her weight!
Number 4 is my favorite.
>> 4th response: Screw safety devices. We may not be forced to use them
>> yet, but the nanny state could make us one day. Down with retail
>> tyranny and heavy handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger
>> before they can get to me to try to keep me from exercising my right
>> to do it!
I recall the quote going more like this.
That no good nasty sucker is about the out-smarting'est man that I have
ever seen. I will never save up to buy any product of this
in-vent-er/future government hot shot.
We are loose'n our rights to make emotional buying choices about our
saw's.
So I am not stubbern enough not mention about cutting myself with my TS,
hell I'm right here typing. I'll admit it, it was my fault, not the
saws fault. So there is no reason to blame the saw cause it was not a SS.
Guys! since this accident was not really an accident, what could I have
done differently to have prevented this.
Leon: SawStop.
Back to number 4
Finger looked like hamburger and hurt like hell.
5. What kind of saw was it?
6. Wasn't a SawStop.
7. If you multiply pi times the measurement across the blade and do
some other calculations you end up with a number.
8. I like pie
That there was funny, huh! I don't care who you are.
>> 5th response: I like pie!
>> 6th response: Me too!
On 2/7/2017 3:53 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
>> For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
>> I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
>> how to over come the problems.
>>
>> My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
>> tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
>> loosen.
>>
>> The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
>> thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.
>>
>> Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
>> my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
>> box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.
>>
>>
>> The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
>> there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
>> was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
>> clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
>> this way straight out of the box.
>> The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
>> Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
>> style screw handles.
>>
>> For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
>> very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.
>>
>> Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
>> head. That worked for a few years but......
>>
>> Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.
>>
>> If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
>> this may be your fix.
>>
>> I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
>> the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
>> lubricate the threads of the screw.
>>
>> I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
>> all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
>> locating his spot.
>>
>> Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?
>>
>>
>> On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
>> need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
>>
>> You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
>> steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
>> tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
>> instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
>>
>>
>>
> I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
> Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
> light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
> solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
> clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
> make picture frames.
Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
if you weld, never use either.
if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.
After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.
--
Jeff
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:GaudnZv5WLN9pAfFnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:
[...]
> Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
> if you weld, never use either.
Repeat: IF YOU WELD, NEVER USE EITHER.
> if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
> possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
> leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.
The first time I read about this, three or four years ago, I thought "yeah, riiiiight". Checked
into it, though, and it's a *very real* hazard -- the result is one of the gases that was used in
chem warfare in WW One. Phosgene, I think. Anyway, it's a *nasty* bastard.
> After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
> clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.
>
On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 1:01:23 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
> > But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
> > a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
> > the track the second post after yours...
>=20
> LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many tangents.
Yeah, right. Here is the way it appears to me:
Leon: I have some tips on how to use and maintain clamps.
1st response: My brother in law has a ton of clamps.
2nd response: Hah! My sister in law weighs a ton!
3rd response: She is lucky the nanny state police don't get on her about he=
r weight!
4th response: Screw safety devices. We may not be forced to use them yet, =
but the nanny state could make us one day. Down with retail tyranny and he=
avy handed politicians! I am going to cut off a finger before they can get =
to me to try to keep me from exercising my right to do it!
5th response: I like pie!
6th response: Me too!
=20
> > I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its grinding
> > feel after use.
>=20
> I had no doubt that you would already know this.
Well... with 40 plus years of doing this stuff for days/weeks/years on end =
you are bound to learn something. Even then, note that I pointed out someo=
ne showed me how to take care of that problem. That could be one of those =
things (like my comment on my Jorgensons) that I just never figured out.
The learning curve can be cut well in half if you work with hundreds of dif=
ferent professionals all in the same field. It's the small stuff like the =
tips like the one you posted that are //so useful// yet go unnoticed.
Robert=20
On 2/11/2017 11:56 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 10:14:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>
>> I guess some of us use our clamps more than others. ;~)
>
> But Leon... think of the great OSHA/science information you got from
> a comment on clamps! I was surprised though, that the engine left
> the track the second post after yours...
LOL..... A well thought out post brings the possibility of many tangents.
>
> I knew about the compression withing the clamp head and its grinding
> feel after use.
I had no doubt that you would already know this.
I was told back in the mid 70s (when the whole shop
> had something like 10 Pony pipe clamps!)to put a drop or two of "3 in
> 1" just where the clamp screw rotates in the clamp face. it was
> explained to me that the heavy clamping pressure could/would gall the
> inside of the contact surfaces and make them have that grinding
> feeling when compressing. About every 4 or 5 glue ups we would hand
> the pipes on a boards and apply the oil. We used those clamps for
> everything. Remember a day with no Besseys, no cabinet clamps like
> we know them today. I still have some 50 year old Pony clamps and
> even have two ancient bar clamps from the 1920s. The Pony clamps are
> used on occasion, but the bar clamps are bent and are more of a
> curiosity.
>
> Strangely, I hadn't thought of it, but your comment hit home. I
> rarely use clamps anymore. My squeeze clamps are in constant use for
> all manner of things, sometimes just an extra set of holding hands.
> But my Besseys, my old Irwins, my no name aluminum bar clamps, and my
> Stanley brand pipe clamps and Ponys haven't been touched in a really
> long time.
>
> I do appreciate the comment on the wood Jorgensons. I have watched
> mine "relax" more than once, and gave all but one or two away since I
> thought they were defective! I thought the dirty threads would make
> them stick more, but if you think about it, the dirt probably acted
> more as a lubricant, keeping the friction quotient too low for them
> to work properly. That's a good tip!
>
> Robert
>
On 2/7/2017 6:07 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 2/7/2017 4:19 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 2/7/2017 3:53 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>> On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
>>>> I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
>>>> how to over come the problems.
>>>>
>>>> My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I
>>>> would
>>>> tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
>>>> loosen.
>>>>
>>>> The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
>>>> thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.
>>>>
>>>> Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which
>>>> affected
>>>> my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of
>>>> the
>>>> box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
>>>> there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the
>>>> screw
>>>> was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
>>>> clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
>>>> this way straight out of the box.
>>>> The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
>>>> Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter
>>>> fly
>>>> style screw handles.
>>>>
>>>> For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw
>>>> with
>>>> very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.
>>>>
>>>> Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
>>>> head. That worked for a few years but......
>>>>
>>>> Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.
>>>>
>>>> If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
>>>> this may be your fix.
>>>>
>>>> I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
>>>> the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
>>>> lubricate the threads of the screw.
>>>>
>>>> I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
>>>> all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
>>>> locating his spot.
>>>>
>>>> Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
>>>> need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
>>>>
>>>> You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
>>>> steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
>>>> tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
>>>> instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
>>> Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
>>> light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
>>> solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
>>> clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
>>> make picture frames.
>> Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
>> if you weld, never use either.
>> if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
>> possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
>> leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.
>>
>> After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
>> clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.
>>
> I don't weld, but occasionally burn the piece of wood that I am cutting
> on my table saw ;-)
>
>
> Even if the cleaner you use contains a clorohydrocarbon, it would take a
> lot more that a trace on the material you are welding to cause any
> problem, including health problems like the ones you mentioned. The
> OSHA limits for exposure of an 8 hour period for from the attached MSDS
> sheet is less 125 mg/cubic meter
>
> That being said because of the organic materials in the cleaner, it
> could be a flammability problem if you use a very large amount and then
> start welding, as you could have created an explosive mixture.
>
> This is an example of a c cleaner that contains a clorohydrocarbon.
>
> http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00009/08099855-20060628.PDF
>
> Personally I use a cheaper on called Supertech from Walmart
>
> http://msdsdigital.com/system/files/document_14.pdf
Ok, let me post this.
Unfortunately OSHA had the info, but it's now been pulled.
http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-12/dont-get-careless
--
Jeff
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
> For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
> I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
> how to over come the problems.
>
> My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
> tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
> loosen.
>
> The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
> thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.
>
> Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
> my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
> box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.
>
>
> The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
> there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
> was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
> clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
> this way straight out of the box.
> The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
> Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
> style screw handles.
>
> For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
> very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.
>
> Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
> head. That worked for a few years but......
>
> Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.
>
> If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
> this may be your fix.
>
> I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
> the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
> lubricate the threads of the screw.
>
> I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
> all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
> locating his spot.
>
> Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?
>
>
> On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
> need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
>
> You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
> steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
> tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
> instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
>
>
>
I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
make picture frames.
On 2/7/2017 4:19 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/7/2017 3:53 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> On 2/7/2017 3:23 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> For many years I have had clamps that began to perform poorly.
>>> I learned by experience and through the advise of the manufacturers of
>>> how to over come the problems.
>>>
>>> My wooden double handle screw clamps would loosen on their own. I would
>>> tighten both handles and could immediately watch the handles turn and
>>> loosen.
>>>
>>> The solution, provided by Jorgenson, use a stiff wire brush to
>>> thoroughly clean the threads of the screws. Problem Solved.
>>>
>>> Another issue that I learned to remedy by myself was that which affected
>>> my Bessy K-body style, Cabinet Master K-body clone, and fresh out of the
>>> box Jet K-body clone bar clamps.
>>>
>>>
>>> The symptom. It seemed that when tightening the clamp handles that
>>> there was no lubrication. The motion felt dry and I felt that the screw
>>> was providing more resistance than the actual material that I was
>>> clamping. I will restate for clarity that all 6 of my Jet clamps felt
>>> this way straight out of the box.
>>> The Cabinet Masters over several years developed this feel as did the
>>> Bessy clamps. Oh, and so did my aluminum bar clamps with the butter fly
>>> style screw handles.
>>>
>>> For years I cleaned the threads and sprayed a dry lube on the screw with
>>> very mixed results with most results being only slightly better.
>>>
>>> Jorgensons answer and solution was to send me a free replacement screw
>>> head. That worked for a few years but......
>>>
>>> Then through divine intervention the fix/answer came to me.
>>>
>>> If any of you have witnessed this problem with any of your screw clamps
>>> this may be your fix.
>>>
>>> I discovered that there is truly friction and resistance in tightening
>>> the clamp. As mentioned above it would seem obvious to clean and
>>> lubricate the threads of the screw.
>>>
>>> I discovered one more spot to lubricate and doing so immediately made
>>> all of my brands of clamps operate closer to silky smooth than prior to
>>> locating his spot.
>>>
>>> Starting to sound like one of those commercials, huh?
>>>
>>>
>>> On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
>>> need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
>>>
>>> You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
>>> steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
>>> tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
>>> instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> I use carburetor cleaner to keep my clamps working properly. The
>> Carburetor cleaner has to beneficial properties. It being basically a
>> light oil, keep the tool from rusting. Most importantly is is also a
>> solvent that will remove the glue that always gets in the threads of my
>> clamps. The clamps I use most are the perimeter clamps that I use to
>> make picture frames.
> Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
> if you weld, never use either.
> if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
> possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
> leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.
>
> After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
> clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.
>
I don't weld, but occasionally burn the piece of wood that I am cutting
on my table saw ;-)
Even if the cleaner you use contains a clorohydrocarbon, it would take a
lot more that a trace on the material you are welding to cause any
problem, including health problems like the ones you mentioned. The
OSHA limits for exposure of an 8 hour period for from the attached MSDS
sheet is less 125 mg/cubic meter
That being said because of the organic materials in the cleaner, it
could be a flammability problem if you use a very large amount and then
start welding, as you could have created an explosive mixture.
This is an example of a c cleaner that contains a clorohydrocarbon.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00009/08099855-20060628.PDF
Personally I use a cheaper on called Supertech from Walmart
http://msdsdigital.com/system/files/document_14.pdf
On 2/7/2017 7:41 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:GaudnZv5WLN9pAfFnZ2dnUU7-
> [email protected]
>
> [...]
>> Once caution about carb cleaner. or brake cleaner.
>> if you weld, never use either.
>
> Repeat: IF YOU WELD, NEVER USE EITHER.
>
>> if there is any trace of liquid (doubtful long term) but still a
>> possibility hitting the liquid with intense heat as a welder could
>> leave you paralyzed or dead. it can cause nerve damage.
>
> The first time I read about this, three or four years ago, I thought "yeah, riiiiight". Checked
> into it, though, and it's a *very real* hazard -- the result is one of the gases that was used in
> chem warfare in WW One. Phosgene, I think. Anyway, it's a *nasty* bastard.
>
>> After reading about that, I no longer use it, as I do weld. I don't
>> clean anything that I might use during welding with those cleaners.
>>
>
As I indicated in my original post where I posted the MSGS sheet, not
all brake cleaners on carburator cleaners are created equal. I posted a
cleaner based on Methylene Chloride. You posted a brake cleaner that
contains tetraChloroethylene. The one I use Supertech contains
Acetone, Toluene, and Methanol and no chlorohydrocarbons. While they
are all flamable, and volatile, they are completely different materials
in the health hazards, and must be treated differently.
On 2/7/17 1:23 PM, Leon wrote:
>
> On most all of these K-body style clamps and the clones the part you
> need to apply oil is partially hidden and out of site.
>
> You also need to oil the end of the screw where it is riveted onto the
> steel washer that delivers all of the clamping force. There is
> tremendous friction at that connection and a drop or two of oil
> instantly decreases the effort needed to tighten the clamp.
>
>
>
Amen!
I have/had the same problem, thought the threads were galling in the
clamp. Grease helped but not as much as I had hoped.
A few drops of oil with a swamp cooler oiler did the trick. The oilers
long plastic tube reaches to the area where the ball of the screw enters
into the "foot".
-BR