i am making kitchen cabinet doors in a =93shaker=94 style--flat panel,
square edges and on the rails and styles. the last set I need to make
are four doors with three glass panes each...so I need two muntins in
each door (i hope I'm being clear: each door has three glass panes,
one on top of the other, running the full width of the door)...my
question is how would you attach the muntins to the door frame?
thanks in advance,
Eric
On May 18, 1:53=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I would asume they would be a cope and stick just like the rails and
> stiles.
>
> On May 18, 6:47=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > i am making kitchen cabinet doors in a =93shaker=94 style--flat panel,
> > square edges and on the rails and styles. the last set I need to make
> > are four doors with three glass panes each...so I need two muntins in
> > each door (i hope I'm being clear: each door has three glass panes,
> > one on top of the other, running the full width of the door)...my
> > question is how would you attach the muntins to the door frame?
>
> > thanks in advance,
>
> > Eric
Can't be cope and stick because there's no coped edge--the edge
profiles are all square...
I would asume they would be a cope and stick just like the rails and
stiles.
On May 18, 6:47=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> i am making kitchen cabinet doors in a =93shaker=94 style--flat panel,
> square edges and on the rails and styles. the last set I need to make
> are four doors with three glass panes each...so I need two muntins in
> each door (i hope I'm being clear: each door has three glass panes,
> one on top of the other, running the full width of the door)...my
> question is how would you attach the muntins to the door frame?
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> Eric
On May 18, 5:51=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 18, 2:42=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On May 18, 3:03=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> > > So, if you will really use 3 pieces of glass instead of one with faux
> > > dividers, then the muntin would have a lap joint that sits in the
> > > rabbit that is only maybe one third as wide as the width of the munti=
n
> > > to accomodate the rabbit for the glass on it's back side also.
>
> > > Using a faux scenario is actually harder. If you wanted to look, you
> > > could do a lapped dovetail (something like this http://www.customcabi=
netmakers.com/pictures/join/lapped.jpg ) at each
> > > end of the muntin. Might be an interesting looking element but
> > > probably takes away from the intentional demure look of a shaker
> > > square edge panel build.
>
> > Do the lapped dovetail on the back of the door.
>
>
> Brilliant!
I don't like to show off. ;)
R
On May 18, 3:03=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ahh, my mistake now that I think about it.
>
> So, if you will really use 3 pieces of glass instead of one with faux
> dividers, then the muntin would have a lap joint that sits in the
> rabbit that is only maybe one third as wide as the width of the muntin
> to accomodate the rabbit for the glass on it's back side also.
>
> Using a faux scenario is actually harder. If you wanted to look, you
> could do a lapped dovetail (something like thishttp://www.customcabinetma=
kers.com/pictures/join/lapped.jpg) at each
> end of the muntin. Might be an interesting looking element but
> probably takes away from the intentional demure look of a shaker
> square edge panel build.
Do the lapped dovetail on the back of the door.
R
Ahh, my mistake now that I think about it.
So, if you will really use 3 pieces of glass instead of one with faux
dividers, then the muntin would have a lap joint that sits in the
rabbit that is only maybe one third as wide as the width of the muntin
to accomodate the rabbit for the glass on it's back side also.
Using a faux scenario is actually harder. If you wanted to look, you
could do a lapped dovetail (something like this
http://www.customcabinetmakers.com/pictures/join/lapped.jpg) at each
end of the muntin. Might be an interesting looking element but
probably takes away from the intentional demure look of a shaker
square edge panel build.
On May 18, 11:38=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> On May 18, 1:53=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I would asume they would be a cope and stick just like the rails and
> > stiles.
>
> > On May 18, 6:47=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > i am making kitchen cabinet doors in a =93shaker=94 style--flat panel=
,
> > > square edges and on the rails and styles. the last set I need to make
> > > are four doors with three glass panes each...so I need two muntins in
> > > each door (i hope I'm being clear: each door has three glass panes,
> > > one on top of the other, running the full width of the door)...my
> > > question is how would you attach the muntins to the door frame?
>
> > > thanks in advance,
>
> > > Eric
>
> Can't be cope and stick because there's no coped edge--the edge
> profiles are all square...
On May 18, 2:42=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 18, 3:03=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Ahh, my mistake now that I think about it.
>
> > So, if you will really use 3 pieces of glass instead of one with faux
> > dividers, then the muntin would have a lap joint that sits in the
> > rabbit that is only maybe one third as wide as the width of the muntin
> > to accomodate the rabbit for the glass on it's back side also.
>
> > Using a faux scenario is actually harder. If you wanted to look, you
> > could do a lapped dovetail (something like thishttp://www.customcabinet=
makers.com/pictures/join/lapped.jpg) at each
> > end of the muntin. Might be an interesting looking element but
> > probably takes away from the intentional demure look of a shaker
> > square edge panel build.
>
> Do the lapped dovetail on the back of the door.
>
> R
Brilliant!