Suggestions for cuting board finish?

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
>
> "Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
>
>
> > I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
> > Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.
> >
> > Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
> > use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
> > while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
> > care of any residual critters.
> >
>
> Like Robert, I prefer wood but that's just "because". I am surprised at
the
> results you quote above. I would have thought exactly the opposite to be
> true. In fact, I might even say "are you sure?..."


It boils down to who you want to believe, and apparently, the type of
"bacteria":

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infcuttingboard.html

http://www.blackwell-synergy.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1745-4565.1994.tb00591.x?journalCode=jfs

Last week coffee was bad for you, this week, according to published reports,
it is good for you ... same with red wine, red meat, olive oil, eggs ... you
ain't getting out of here alive in any event, so enjoy.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/17/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.

On Oct 15, 1:28 pm, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
> >Don't use vegetable oils.
>
> >Woody
>
> >"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
> >>and
> >> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> >> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
> >> them..lol
>
> >> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
> >> what to
> >> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> >> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> >> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
> >> smell that
> >> my wife hated.. lol
>
> >> Any suggestions?
>
> >> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> >> Thanks,
>
> >> mac
>
> >> Please remove splinters before emailing
>
> I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
> it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
> walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.
>
> There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
> resolved that the walnut was not a problem.
>
> Frank- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

If these are being used as cutting boards in the kitchen where they
chop food directly on the surface, then
1. They should not have any "shiny finish" or any finish at all.
2. The local authorities will likely have a pescribed cleaning and
application requirment.

I think you should be safe buying the mineral oil mixture (with other
ingredients) from Boos company. They are one of the few companies with
the NFS certification which is required for wood surface materials
with direct food contact and their stuff is surely approved.

If they are cuttin board like counters, then spray them with anything
you've got.

On Oct 15, 1:12 pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
> my wife hated.. lol
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> Thanks,
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing

I love this subject. It never fails to raise the hackles of a few
people. I'm not sure why it's so emotional but it always is. I am
stealing time from my boss right now but once I'm back home this
evening I'll dig through my research and see how I was informed on
this subject. It's been a few years since I did the research but I was
satisfied I had covered my liabilities so I surely have the
references.

On Oct 16, 4:06 am, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 15 Oct 2007 20:30:33 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
> >nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.
>
> Informed literature? I've been using walnut oil for years have never
> had a problem with it going rancid.
>
>
>
> >On Oct 15, 1:28 pm, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
> >> >Don't use vegetable oils.
>
> >> >Woody
>
> >> >"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >news:[email protected]...
> >> >>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
> >> >>and
> >> >> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> >> >> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
> >> >> them..lol
>
> >> >> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
> >> >> what to
> >> >> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> >> >> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> >> >> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
> >> >> smell that
> >> >> my wife hated.. lol
>
> >> >> Any suggestions?
>
> >> >> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> >> >> Thanks,
>
> >> >> mac
>
> >> >> Please remove splinters before emailing
>
> >> I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
> >> it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
> >> walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.
>
> >> There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
> >> resolved that the walnut was not a problem.
>
> >> Frank- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

This thread comes along every few months, and I always get a chuckle.
Being ever the empiricist, I have observed the following:

I have made most of the turners, spoons, serving ware and utility
utensils we use in our very busy kitchen. There is an assortment of
woods, and each has been treated with different oils and oil/wax
blends. No difference in smell, texture, wear or anything else has
been noticed by myself or SO.

And then I think... If I am so scared of uncured oils penetrating my
treenware, why do I use them on my wok? Why do I use them for frying
and stirring? Surely turning a piece of fatty fish (salmon) fish
quick seared at high heat would encompass the fears of some here,
no?

Or turning burgers in a teflon skillet with my white oak wide body
turner... wouldn't those fats work their way into the wood? One would
think. But so far, no problems. Wash, dry, put in rack. With about
25 or so turners, spoons, stirrers and testing spoons I don't have ANY
smells from anything on these utensils. They have been in use for
years now.

And what about that cutting board. After reading these threads I
think well... should I cut that damn brisket or dismantle those ribs
on that wooden thing or not? Hot grease and meat juice would
certainly penetrate the wood and not only smell to high heaven after
it goes rancid, but it could make any or all of sick.

Thankfully, years and years of cutting up raw meats, sausages, cooked
meats and vegetables of all types on wooden boards sealed with
whatever I have on hand when I think they need a little quick moisture
have resulted in no foul odors, no mildew, no sickness.

You should put whatever you want on your board, understanding that the
oils offer little or no protection. What is important is that you
clean them properly and allow them to dry thoroughly when changing
preparations.

BTW, I learned from an amigo of mine that worked in a butcher shop for
years that they NEVER clean the butcher block with any kind of soap,
water, or detergent, nor do they put any finish on it.

After a hard day of hacking and chopping, they cleaned the block off
as best they could with a towel, scraped it with a cabinet scraper,
and scrubbed the daylights out of it with a lemon that was cut in
half, then mashed into kosher salt for grit.

My personal obervation after sawing into a board with test oils on
them is that while they make make the wood more attractive, they
coatings don't do much on cutting boards or tools.

I do like the walnut oils on bowls, etc. that can have liquid collect
in the bottom. Mike Mahoney makes a special curing walnut oil for
bowls that is supposed to be great, and that should work as well as
anything else for light wood protection.

As always....

Just my 0.02.

Robert

On Oct 17, 2:59 am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I'm curious.
>
> In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, >polypropolene cutting
> boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a >display piece or a
> gift.
>
> Lew

Actually, some folks have run an entirely new battery of tests that
indicate that the old woodies are safer for the kitchen than plastic
due to the grooves left by a sharp knife. With a plastic board, the
soft plastic simply rolls over on either side of the groove left when
cutting. Examination of my own polyprop boards revealed this scratchy
feeling surface. On a wood board, cutting raises the cut grain, and
the raised/severed fibers are knocked, rubbed, flecked, or washed off,
leaving the clean groove behind with nothing to hold the bacteria.

I willingly admit that in practical application the difference in the
two may not amount to a fart in a tornado, but no one likes facts like
this group.

I personally like the wooden cutting boards as their bulk an weight
make them better suited to my cutting style, and while it may be my
imagination, it seems my knives stay sharper longer on the wood
boards.

Robert

Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody


"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
>and
> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
> them..lol
>
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
> what to
> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
> smell that
> my wife hated.. lol
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing

<[email protected]> wrote:

> This thread comes along every few months, and I always get a
chuckle.
<snip>

I'm curious.

In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, polypropolene cutting
boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a display piece or a
gift.

Lew

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 06:59:10 -0500, Frank Boettcher wrote:
> I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
> Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.

Here are two, with references to other articles:

http://foodsafety.ifas.ufl.edu/HTML/il114.htm
http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/health/foodsafety/az1076.html

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

"George" wrote:

> Russians say "One who neither smokes nor drinks dies healthy."
(Rhymes in
> Russian)

Three Jolly Coachmen, courtesy of the Kingston Trio.
(Repeat lines deleted)

...now here's to the man who goes to bed quite mellow,
he goes to bed quite mellow.

...now here's to the man who goes to bed quite sober,
he'll die before October.

...now here's to the lass who steals a kiss,
and runs to tell her mother,

She's a foolish, foolish thing,
for she'll nare get another.

...now here's to the lass who steals a kiss,
and stays to steal another,

She's a boon to all mankind,
for she'll soon be a mother.

man who goes to bed quite mellow,
he goes to bed quite mellow.

In article <[email protected]>, Frank
Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:

> Surprised me too. I'm only sure I read some of the studies and what
> they concluded. The bacteria didn't reproduce or multply or whatever
> bacteria do on the wooden boards. Maybe something to do with the ph
> or tanic acid or something. I can't remember why just that it was
> reported as so.

I prefer wooden boards too.

However, I dropped one the other day and it split at a glue joint that
had widened over the years to show a crack.

I sure didn't like the look of what was growing in there... I have a
large maple one (about 20 years old - it was a wedding present) that
I'm going to re-rip and re-glue as it's starting to open up at the
joints.

--
Help improve usenet. Kill-file Google Groups.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
> Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.
>
> Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
> use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
> while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
> care of any residual critters.
>

Like Robert, I prefer wood but that's just "because". I am surprised at the
results you quote above. I would have thought exactly the opposite to be
true. In fact, I might even say "are you sure?..."

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

>> This thread comes along every few months, and I always get a
> chuckle.
> <snip>
>
> I'm curious.
>
> In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, polypropolene cutting
> boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a display piece or a
> gift.

Because the scrap dishwasher I was discarding had a top made of maple that
was just right to make into cutting boards. I had a large HDPE cutting
board I made 15 years ago, and another that my wife bought that was too
small. I wanted an inbetween one, so I made it out of the scrap wood. Now
all the relatives are asking for copies.

- Owen -

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 13:12:17 -0700, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
>refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
>They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol
>
>
>I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
>use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
>I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
>finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
>my wife hated.. lol
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>mac
>
>Please remove splinters before emailing

Back in Jr. High one of the Wood shop projects one could make was an
"End Grain Oak Butcher Block."

I know for a fact that the finish was a combination of heated "Linseed
Oil and Beeswax," however I can't remember what type of "Linseed Oil"
was used or what the percentages of each component were.

I was hoping that someone was familiar and could tell me what I've
forgotten.

I'm hoping to use this type finish for some "Wooden Spoons and a Pizza
Peel."

As far as it being "Food Grade" I have a hard time believing that the
late 60's - early 70's Hamilton County School Board (Cincinnati, OH.)
would allow teachers to poison students and their families, as the
projects were not for show, but rather for household usage by the
students and their families.

Any leads to fill my memory gaps would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

PR

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 09:07:14 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:


>Last week coffee was bad for you, this week, according to published reports,
>it is good for you ... same with red wine, red meat, olive oil, eggs ... you
>ain't getting out of here alive in any event, so enjoy.

Yep.. My grandfather ate, drank and smoked all the stuff that's bad for you
now.. and died at a very cranky 108..
My folks said that he was just too mean to die..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:

> I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
> my wife hated.. lol
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> Thanks,
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing

===
Mac,
You can do several things with the boards.
- plane it (resurface it), so it is flat again.
- if it will be used for decorations, any high gloss finish will do,
- if it will be used on a daily basis in the kitchen, a good coating of mineral oil
will kill off any bacteria that may want to establish residence in the board's
cuts. After letting the oil soak for several hours, wipe off any excess with a
paper towel or kitchen towel. Repeat the mineral oil application once a week if it
is used on a daily basis (you mentioned a restaurant, that would mean daily). If
for home use you can get by with a monthly application, but more often if you are
paranoid about bacteria, salmonella and that kind of stuff. I have several cutting
boards and they get the mineral oil treatment once a month if they need it or not.
Do not wash with soap and water, plain warm water will do, the soap will wash away
the mineral oil.

My two centavos.

Ray
Austin, TX
===

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To
> this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or
> finish at all.
> I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.
>
>

I wish I had some of my shop projects from that era. That is a long time
ago.

Just a suggestion, maybe the wife would appreciate a NEW cutting board.

<d, r & h>

On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 21:29:17 GMT, "Ray S. & Nayda Katzaman"
<[email protected]> wrote:


>Mac,
>You can do several things with the boards.
>- plane it (resurface it), so it is flat again.
>- if it will be used for decorations, any high gloss finish will do,
>- if it will be used on a daily basis in the kitchen, a good coating of mineral oil
>will kill off any bacteria that may want to establish residence in the board's
>cuts. After letting the oil soak for several hours, wipe off any excess with a
>paper towel or kitchen towel. Repeat the mineral oil application once a week if it
>is used on a daily basis (you mentioned a restaurant, that would mean daily). If
>for home use you can get by with a monthly application, but more often if you are
>paranoid about bacteria, salmonella and that kind of stuff. I have several cutting
>boards and they get the mineral oil treatment once a month if they need it or not.
>Do not wash with soap and water, plain warm water will do, the soap will wash away
>the mineral oil.
>
>My two centavos.
>
>Ray
>Austin, TX
>===
>
I'm picking it up tonight, Ray, and will see what I'm getting into..

Depending on size and condition, I'll sand or maybe plane it and recommend that
he leave it unfinished...
I don't want to spend a lot of time on it because I'm hoping to make it a quick
job and not charge for it.. (networking!)

If there's anything a restaurant here has an abundance of, it's salt and limes..
lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:

> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting
> board finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil
> lemon smell that my wife hated.. lol

> Any suggestions?

I haven't seen anyone else in this thread mention this, so here goes ...

I've made a number of cutting boards, for personal use and as gifts,
and I've finished all of them with Watco Butcher Block Oil &
Finish[1]. I've just followed the instructions on the can, especially
where it concerns final dry time before being used for food
preparation, and I've had good results.

> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

I'm not sure where you could get Watco stuff locally in Mexico or
on-line. I'm in Texas and get it locally from Lowe's.

[1]: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=757&SBL=1

--

If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".

"Frank Boettcher" wrote

> Informed literature?

Means you're obviously ill-informed literature wise, Frank.

:)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/30/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

mac davis wrote:
> I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I
> could sand and refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff"
> on them..lol
>
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions
> here on what to use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting
> board finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an
> evil lemon smell that my wife hated.. lol
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Boiled linseed oil. After it dries in a couple of days it is totally
safe. Shiny stuff won't last and mineral oil never dries. BLO won't
last forever either but is sopa de pato to renew.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Hmm... the wonder of this group..
> I must have read 30 or 40 pages last night and BLO didn't come up...
> I guess the smell goes away in a few days, so that would work.. doesn't
> attract
> dust like mineral oil does, either..
>

I've used mineral oil on quite a few boards. It never attracted dust, dog
hair, grass clippings, or any of the other negatives some mentioned. It is
sold in stores as a cutting board oil, buy mine came from the drug store.

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 16:17:38 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>If these are being used as cutting boards in the kitchen where they
>chop food directly on the surface, then
>1. They should not have any "shiny finish" or any finish at all.
>2. The local authorities will likely have a pescribed cleaning and
>application requirment.

Hmm... Being in Mexico, all the local authorities care about is getting their
"taxes"... I doubt that there IS a sanitary code here..
>
>I think you should be safe buying the mineral oil mixture (with other
>ingredients) from Boos company. They are one of the few companies with
>the NFS certification which is required for wood surface materials
>with direct food contact and their stuff is surely approved.
>
I'm thinking more and more that no finish is best...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 19:01:56 GMT, Brian Henderson
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:35:25 -0700, mac davis
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I hadn't even thought about planing.. have to see if it just needs sanding or if
>>the planer would be a good idea first..
>
>I ended up planing it, both to get rid of some deep cuts and because
>of a couple cracks between boards were starting to widen. I had to
>cut the board down to get it through the planer anyhow, I simply cut
>it apart at the cracks, planed it to uniform thickness and reglued.
>You can't tell there were ever any problems.

Good point!
I have no idea how wide this beast is.. might not fit in the planer..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Boiled linseed oil.

Poor choice. Firstly it's a flm-forming oil, so it won't last for a
cutting board.

Secondly it tastes disgusting. It _will_ taint citrus fruit.

Thirdly it's too toxic to use for food. Linseed driers just aren't a
good addition to the diet. Even the alternatives to lead, like cobalt,
are far from advisable for consumption.


I'd use a vegetable oil that doesn't go rancid, such as real Chinese
camellia (not the Japanese fake), otherwise walnut or grapeseed. Don;t
use olive, it goes rancid. Mineral oil ("Liquid paraffin" from a UK
pharmacist) is also safe.

"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To
>> this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or
>> finish at all.
>> I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.
>>
>>
>
> I wish I had some of my shop projects from that era. That is a long time
ago.

I still have a wrought iron magazine rack that I designed and made out of
1/8" thick x 1" wide band iron, rivited with 3/8" wide rivits pounded with a
ball peen hammer. I made that the same year.

>
> Just a suggestion, maybe the wife would appreciate a NEW cutting board.


Actually, just before we bought our first house 26 years ago I built her a
roll around Maple butcher block trimmed with Padauk. She prefers the one I
made in school. It is easer to rinse off/clean under the faucet.

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
> If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.

Disagree. Oil that won't cure catches dust, doghair, greasy dirty
fingerprints and food odors. Not to mention sheltering bacteria from your
detergent.

> If he is going to use it, in a restaurant, it will not look nice and shiny
> long at all. Better to resurface, sand and return it to him.
>

If he's going to use it in a restaraunt he'll conform with local health
regulations. We used to salt our tallow and lard-laden boards every night
back in the days.

> I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To
> this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or
> finish at all.
> I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.
>

Bare is best, cured oil second.

"mac davis" wrote in message

> Yep.. My grandfather ate, drank and smoked all the stuff that's bad for
you
> now.. and died at a very cranky 108..
> My folks said that he was just too mean to die..

My paternal grandfather smoked, and inhaled, Prince Albert pipe tobacco in a
pipe, for almost 80 years. The doctors made him quit at 96, and he only
lived another 3 years after that. My Dad claims it was the aggravation of
having to quit, and not the smoking, that finally got to him.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/17/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "mac davis" wrote in message
>
>> Yep.. My grandfather ate, drank and smoked all the stuff that's bad for
> you
>> now.. and died at a very cranky 108..
>> My folks said that he was just too mean to die..
>
Russians say "One who neither smokes nor drinks dies healthy." (Rhymes in
Russian)

Isn't that what we all want?

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
>> Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.
>>
>> Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
>> use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
>> while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
>> care of any residual critters.
>>
>
> Like Robert, I prefer wood but that's just "because". I am surprised at
> the results you quote above. I would have thought exactly the opposite to
> be true. In fact, I might even say "are you sure?..."
>

Yep, it is true.

There was a big deal about it when the research first came about. This is
exactly the type of thing that the local television stations run with. So we
were abused with about a hundred stories on this topic awhile back.

"Ray S. & Nayda Katzaman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> - if it will be used on a daily basis in the kitchen, a good coating of
> mineral oil
> will kill off any bacteria that may want to establish residence in the
> board's
> cuts.

HUH? We kill bacteria by putting salt out to draw the water from their
cytoplasm or emulsifying their cell walls with detergent. If you remember
your Biology, the lipid bilayer cell walls are hydrophobic, and would love
the company of oil to hide them from the things that would lyse them.

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
>Don't use vegetable oils.
>
>Woody
>
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
>>and
>> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>>
>> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
>> them..lol
>>
>>
>> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
>> what to
>> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>>
>> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
>> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
>> smell that
>> my wife hated.. lol
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> mac
>>
>> Please remove splinters before emailing
>


I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.

There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
resolved that the walnut was not a problem.

Frank

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 09:23:56 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
>> Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.
>>
>> Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
>> use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
>> while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
>> care of any residual critters.
>>
>
>Like Robert, I prefer wood but that's just "because". I am surprised at the
>results you quote above. I would have thought exactly the opposite to be
>true. In fact, I might even say "are you sure?..."

Surprised me too. I'm only sure I read some of the studies and what
they concluded. The bacteria didn't reproduce or multply or whatever
bacteria do on the wooden boards. Maybe something to do with the ph
or tanic acid or something. I can't remember why just that it was
reported as so.

Frank

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:55:14 -0400, "Owen Lawrence"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I've been using olive oil. How long before it goes rancid?

Depends on the quality of your oil, the climate and the use the board
gets. If it's a well-scrubbed chopping board (rather than a salad bowl)
then the wear and replenishment rate of the oil might be enough to never
have it happen. I'd still avoid it, in favour of walnut -- it's just a
question of picking the other bottle up from the shelf in the kitchen.

"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Boiled linseed oil.
>
> Poor choice. Firstly it's a flm-forming oil, so it won't last for a
> cutting board.
>
> Secondly it tastes disgusting. It _will_ taint citrus fruit.
>
> Thirdly it's too toxic to use for food. Linseed driers just aren't a
> good addition to the diet. Even the alternatives to lead, like cobalt,
> are far from advisable for consumption.
>
>
> I'd use a vegetable oil that doesn't go rancid, such as real Chinese
> camellia (not the Japanese fake), otherwise walnut or grapeseed. Don;t
> use olive, it goes rancid. Mineral oil ("Liquid paraffin" from a UK
> pharmacist) is also safe.

I've been using olive oil. How long before it goes rancid?

- Owen -

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 19:44:22 -0500, "Michael Faurot"
<[email protected]> wrote:


>I've made a number of cutting boards, for personal use and as gifts,
>and I've finished all of them with Watco Butcher Block Oil &
>Finish[1]. I've just followed the instructions on the can, especially
>where it concerns final dry time before being used for food
>preparation, and I've had good results.
>
>> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
>I'm not sure where you could get Watco stuff locally in Mexico or
>on-line. I'm in Texas and get it locally from Lowe's.
>
>[1]: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=757&SBL=1

We do a shopping trip to Calexico or Yuma once a month or so..
No one has HEARD of Danish Oil here and I use a lot of it on my turnings, so I
stock up when we go..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

woodman wrote:
> Unless it was a Chinese restaurant...

Wok your puppy?

>> I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use.
>> Hopefully in a restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and
>> hopefully would not be getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:35:25 -0700, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I hadn't even thought about planing.. have to see if it just needs sanding or if
>the planer would be a good idea first..

I ended up planing it, both to get rid of some deep cuts and because
of a couple cracks between boards were starting to widen. I had to
cut the board down to get it through the planer anyhow, I simply cut
it apart at the cracks, planed it to uniform thickness and reglued.
You can't tell there were ever any problems.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 00:59:03 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> This thread comes along every few months, and I always get a
>chuckle.
><snip>
>
>I'm curious.
>
>In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, polypropolene cutting
>boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a display piece or a
>gift.
>
>Lew
>
In this case, it's sort of an old friend to the cook and he wants to keep using
it, just needs it resurfaced..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
>and
> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
> them..lol
>
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
> what to
> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
> smell that
> my wife hated.. lol
>
Mineral Oil

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:13:00 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?

Must just be for use... I eat there a lot and have never seen it..

>If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.
>If he is going to use it, in a restaurant, it will not look nice and shiny
>long at all. Better to resurface, sand and return it to him.

That was my thought.. might be safer and faster, too..
>
>I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To this
>day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or finish at
>all.
>I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.

I hadn't even thought about planing.. have to see if it just needs sanding or if
the planer would be a good idea first..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:26:52 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
>>> If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.
>>
>> Disagree. Oil that won't cure catches dust, doghair, greasy dirty
>> fingerprints and food odors. Not to mention sheltering bacteria from your
>> detergent.
>
>
>I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use. Hopefully in a
>restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and hopefully would not be
>getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)
>
Well, this IS Mexico... Hopefully it won't be getting any dog MEAT on it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I've just completed a bread slicer, made from a couple pine scraps I
had. I finished it using (pharmacy) mineral oil.

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Boiled linseed oil. After it dries in a couple of days it is totally
>safe. Shiny stuff won't last and mineral oil never dries. BLO won't
>last forever either but is sopa de pato to renew.

Hmm... the wonder of this group..
I must have read 30 or 40 pages last night and BLO didn't come up...
I guess the smell goes away in a few days, so that would work.. doesn't attract
dust like mineral oil does, either..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:13:00 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To this
>day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or finish at
>all.
>I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.

Same here. I've got a built-in cutting board in the kitchen that was
made sometime in the 50s and it does just fine with no or minimal
finish on it. About a year ago, I took it out and planed it to take
out some of the marks that couldn't be easily sanded out, reassembled
it and put it back without oil and it's doing just fine.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 01:40:18 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Oct 17, 2:59 am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I'm curious.
>>
>> In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, >polypropolene cutting
>> boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a >display piece or a
>> gift.
>>
>> Lew
>
>Actually, some folks have run an entirely new battery of tests that
>indicate that the old woodies are safer for the kitchen than plastic
>due to the grooves left by a sharp knife. With a plastic board, the
>soft plastic simply rolls over on either side of the groove left when
>cutting. Examination of my own polyprop boards revealed this scratchy
>feeling surface. On a wood board, cutting raises the cut grain, and
>the raised/severed fibers are knocked, rubbed, flecked, or washed off,
>leaving the clean groove behind with nothing to hold the bacteria.
>
>I willingly admit that in practical application the difference in the
>two may not amount to a fart in a tornado, but no one likes facts like
>this group.
>
>I personally like the wooden cutting boards as their bulk an weight
>make them better suited to my cutting style, and while it may be my
>imagination, it seems my knives stay sharper longer on the wood
>boards.
>
>Robert
>
I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.

Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
care of any residual critters.

Frank

>
>

"woodman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ypSQi.394$cI5.12@trnddc06...
> Unless it was a Chinese restaurant...
>


I was going to add that but then I was trying to play nice. ;~)

mac davis wrote:
> I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol
>
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
> my wife hated.. lol
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
I remember my stint in Coast Guard boot camp a few different lives ago.
We had to have a week of duty in the kitchen (ok, mess halls), and I
was in a station that had a very large butcher block. The end-of-day
routine for it was to simply wash it down (plain water if I remember
correctly), and then cover it with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of salt. If a
butcher block can take the abuse of hundreds of Coast Guard recruits
preparing tens of thousands of meals, it should handle a restaurant too.

Wayne

On 15 Oct 2007 20:30:33 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
>nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.
>
Informed literature? I've been using walnut oil for years have never
had a problem with it going rancid.

>On Oct 15, 1:28 pm, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
>> >Don't use vegetable oils.
>>
>> >Woody
>>
>> >"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >news:[email protected]...
>> >>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
>> >>and
>> >> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>>
>> >> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
>> >> them..lol
>>
>> >> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
>> >> what to
>> >> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>>
>> >> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
>> >> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
>> >> smell that
>> >> my wife hated.. lol
>>
>> >> Any suggestions?
>>
>> >> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>>
>> >> Thanks,
>>
>> >> mac
>>
>> >> Please remove splinters before emailing
>>
>> I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
>> it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
>> walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.
>>
>> There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
>> resolved that the walnut was not a problem.
>>
>> Frank- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
>Don't use vegetable oils.
>
>Woody
>
>
I'm sort of leaning that way, Woody, after spending a couple of hours DAG..

Seems like mineral oil, mineral oil and beeswax and walnut oil are the
favorites..
I have lots of mineral oil from a previous attempt to use it for wet sanding
turnings, so that might be the fastest solution (no pun intended) and easiest to
have the chef repeat often..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Boiled linseed oil. After it dries in a couple of days it is
>> totally safe. Shiny stuff won't last and mineral oil never dries.
>> BLO won't last forever either but is sopa de pato to renew.
>
> Hmm... the wonder of this group..
> I must have read 30 or 40 pages last night and BLO didn't come up...
> I guess the smell goes away in a few days, so that would work.

Yes, as soon as it dries. In the interim, you can make it smell nicer
by adding a bit of oil of wintergreen.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
>and
> refinish his 2 cutting boards..
>
> They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
> them..lol
>
>
> I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
> what to
> use for a coating/finish on 'em..
>
> I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
> finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
> smell that
> my wife hated.. lol
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> (I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing

Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.
If he is going to use it, in a restaurant, it will not look nice and shiny
long at all. Better to resurface, sand and return it to him.

I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To this
day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or finish at
all.
I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.

"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
>> If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.
>
> Disagree. Oil that won't cure catches dust, doghair, greasy dirty
> fingerprints and food odors. Not to mention sheltering bacteria from your
> detergent.


I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use. Hopefully in a
restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and hopefully would not be
getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)

Unless it was a Chinese restaurant...


> I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use. Hopefully in
> a restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and hopefully would not
> be getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)
>

Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Boiled linseed oil.
>
> Poor choice. Firstly it's a flm-forming oil, so it won't last for a
> cutting board.

It also soaks in and will last as well as anything.

In reality, there is little point in using *anything* on a cutting
board. Ever see a butcher's block? (A real butcher, not a
supermarket one.) Those blocks have nothing on them but are scraped
daily.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico