-- A little correction - that's 16 inches, not feet.
The diagram works in my text editor, but not in my newsreader.
Just make everything line up.
Shawn--
16' is a good height for me. It leaves just enough room underneath
to store the essentials - and still fit under the cabinet above.
'Beefy' may not be adequate enough without extra support. ;)
It seems that a very thick top helps. My guess is that otherwise it
acts a trampoline.
Mine is double - to hold dryer also. The unt is 32" deep by 61" wide.
I started off with a 2x4 box with 2x4 'studs' every 9" or so.
2 more sets cross the middle with about a foot between them.
---------------------------------
| | | |
|------------|----|--------------|
| | | |
---------------------------------
Top was 3/4 ply. It's on carpet on a concrete slab.
Washer would walk all over. Adjusted feet, great for that load, then it
may or may not walk the next load. Added more 'studs'. No change.
Added another sheet of ply to top and a small piece of trim around
feet to act as a corral - just in case.. The extra ply cured it.
It may be that it's double-wide, but that would seem to make it more
stable, not less.. I don't know how the manufacturers can make them
out of thin steel. The appliances are LG.
Don't consider tile until it's been well tested - if then.
I'm interested in your results.
--Joe
>>>
I will be remodeling my laundry room shortly and will be getting a front
loading washer. Given the condition of my back, I am thinking about putting
it (and the dryer) on a base cabinet to raise it up around 14-16 inches. I
can easily make the base to match my other cabinets.
Do I need any special design considerations for the base or its top? I
imagine the appliances would want to walk some, so a lip would be in order
and the dang things are heavy, but I normally build beefy. I am thinking of
a tiled top for the cabinet... Any info/experience would be appreciated.
Cheers, Shawn
"RimaNeas" wrote:
> Thanks for all the responses... a lot of new info here. I initially
> saw the price of the factory pedestals at $250 each, seemed silly
> since I could build a double-base for $100--I will be building the
> other cabinets in there at the same time. But I will look on Ebay
> for sale items. It also sounds like I should go M1-Abrams beefy for
> the cabinet if I make one--double 3/4" walls, mid-span brace, and a
> double 3/4" top, bolted to the wall studs on 3 sides. I wonder if I
> can also just bolt the washer/dryer to the cabinet from the
> underside...
>
> Thanks again. Cheer, Shawn.
------------------------------------------
Build 16" tall stud walls using 2x4's. Add 2x4 joists, then cover with
3/4" ply on both sides and top, but not bottom.
Add 2x2 "fiddles" (Found on marine interior counters as follows:
2x2 x "L" where "L" = appliance dimension - 4".
Add 1/2" carriage bolts inset 2" from end.
Drill 17/32" holes in top to accept bolts.
These "fiddles" can now be dropped in place to retain appliance or
pulled up to make sliding appliance out easier.
Figure on installing some kind of tile on 3/4" ply top since small
foot size on the washer foot will gouge a low point if allowed to bear
directly on plywood.
Alternate to above:
Buy a commercial item, it will be cheaper.
Lew
Addendum:
See bottom of post for comment.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "RimaNeas" wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the responses... a lot of new info here. I
>> initially
>> saw the price of the factory pedestals at $250 each, seemed silly
>> since I could build a double-base for $100--I will be building the
>> other cabinets in there at the same time. But I will look on Ebay
>> for sale items. It also sounds like I should go M1-Abrams beefy
>> for
>> the cabinet if I make one--double 3/4" walls, mid-span brace, and a
>> double 3/4" top, bolted to the wall studs on 3 sides. I wonder if
>> I
>> can also just bolt the washer/dryer to the cabinet from the
>> underside...
>>
>> Thanks again. Cheer, Shawn.
> ------------------------------------------
> Build 16" tall stud walls using 2x4's. Add 2x4 joists, then cover
> with
> 3/4" ply on both sides and top, but not bottom.
>
> Add 2x2 "fiddles" (Found on marine interior counters as follows:
>
> 2x2 x "L" where "L" = appliance dimension - 4".
>
> Add 1/2" carriage bolts inset 2" from end.
>
> Drill 17/32" holes in top to accept bolts.
>
> These "fiddles" can now be dropped in place to retain appliance or
> pulled up to make sliding appliance out easier.
>
> Figure on installing some kind of tile on 3/4" ply top since small
> foot size on the washer foot will gouge a low point if allowed to
> bear
> directly on plywood.
>
> Alternate to above:
>
> Buy a commercial item, it will be cheaper.
>
> Lew
---------------------------------
The above suggestion is based on building a riser big enough to
support both a washer and dryer.
Lew
Thanks for all the responses... a lot of new info here. I initially saw the
price of the factory pedestals at $250 each, seemed silly since I could
build a double-base for $100--I will be building the other cabinets in there
at the same time. But I will look on Ebay for sale items. It also sounds
like I should go M1-Abrams beefy for the cabinet if I make one--double 3/4"
walls, mid-span brace, and a double 3/4" top, bolted to the wall studs on 3
sides. I wonder if I can also just bolt the washer/dryer to the cabinet
from the underside...
Thanks again. Cheer, Shawn.