Getting ready to finish a desk, the top is walnut with walnut inlay
and I would like a good durable finish. Have been experimenting with
just the Formby's Tung Oil and just simply Poly, question is... would
I get the best finish by using 2-3 applicaitons of Formby's Tung Oil,
then 2 or 3 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?
One of those things, your scared to start but want it done right.
There's no turning back!
The desk is built in, which is built of red oak, with the desk top
walnut and crown trim has a section of walnut, all else is oak - the
backs of the uppers is beadboard .. which I would like to apply the
Formby's tung oil to all, should this be covered with Poly as well, or
is Formby's good enough, or is the Minwax fast drying great by itself?
Any suggestions would be great! I've narrowed it down to these
choices, but open to suggestions...
Thanks,
dcrab
thanks for the insite and Danish Oil updates - Which BTW i'm not going
to use...
I want a Varnish which is a better application for my project.
Formby's Tung Oil is mostly Varnish and carrys little Oil. Wipe on Ply
is mostly Varnish as well.
It helps to do your homework before jumping into a big project as
this. Not all Tung Oil's are the same!
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>, "Toller"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>"efgh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:cyfBi.2428$bO6.2394@edtnps89...
>>>> I just did a jewelry box that had a couple coats of Danish Oil and then
>>>> two coats of Minwax Fast Drying Poly and it turned out great, or so
>>>> everyone tells me. :)
>>>>
>>>> I personally didn't really see much of a difference after I put the
>>>> second
>>>> coat of danish oil on.
>>>>
>>>Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and
>>>it
>>>doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
>>
>> Since when is oil a "film" finish?
>>
>
> When the surface is saturated and you add another coat. It's called
> "curing" oil for a reason.
>
> OTOH, most "Danish" oils aren't rich enough to saturate the surface after
> only two coats, so the poly will likely be fine.
I will defer to your experience, but since they contain varnish, it is hard
to see how they could avoid saturating the surface.
In article <[email protected]>, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"efgh" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:cyfBi.2428$bO6.2394@edtnps89...
>> I just did a jewelry box that had a couple coats of Danish Oil and then
>> two coats of Minwax Fast Drying Poly and it turned out great, or so
>> everyone tells me. :)
>>
>> I personally didn't really see much of a difference after I put the second
>> coat of danish oil on.
>>
>Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and it
>doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
Since when is oil a "film" finish?
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
> Danish oil contains varnish and forms a soft film. Why would you put a
> hard film over a soft film? It just encourages the hard film to be
> scratched?
> Oil is not much protection and should be covered, true; but Danish Oil is
> not oil.
>
Not the Danish Oils that I have used in the past. Typically they would dry
out/soak in and never form a rich or protective finish. I always was
advised by the manufacturer to applied a protective varnish for protection.
Some 30 years later none of the pieces that I have and that were varnished
after the Danish Oil coats have shown any sign of problems or scratches.
That said, I eventually realized that there was no real advantage to
applying the Danish Oil and then covering with a varnish. The pieces look
just as good with a varnish vs. both products IMHO.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> OTOH, most "Danish" oils aren't rich enough to saturate the surface after
>> only two coats, so the poly will likely be fine.
> I will defer to your experience, but since they contain varnish, it is
> hard to see how they could avoid saturating the surface.
>
Defer to the dictionary. Varnish refers to the resin which is used to make
a harder surface than cured oil.
Look at your walls, painted with oil-based paints and if they're old enough,
you can probably count the layers.
[email protected] wrote:
> Getting ready to finish a desk, the top is walnut with walnut inlay
> and I would like a good durable finish. Have been experimenting with
> just the Formby's Tung Oil and just simply Poly, question is...
> would I get the best finish by using 2-3 applicaitons of Formby's
> Tung Oil, then 2 or 3 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?
What would be the point of using both?
There are three things a finish does...
1. Color the wood
2. Protect the wood
3. Provide a sheen
All finishes color the wood to some extent. By "color" I mean that
both the grain and natutal color is emphasized. Water base finishes
color the least; oil based - varnish or oil - color the most.
Lacquer is intermediate. Don't recall about shellac, been too long
since I used it.
Surface films like varnish and lacquer provide the most protection,
oils the least. By "protection" I mean protection from stains,
spills, fingermarks and the like, not protection from physical damage.
The sheen can range from dead flat to high gloss. Oils provide a flat
sheen but can be worked up with was to a pleasant glow. Surface films
like varnish/lacqur/shellac can be whatever you want.
Consequently, my question of "What would be the point of using both?".
You would gain nothing using oil then poly vs poly alone (assuming it
is oil based poly).
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Getting ready to finish a desk, the top is walnut with walnut inlay
> and I would like a good durable finish. Have been experimenting with
> just the Formby's Tung Oil and just simply Poly, question is... would
> I get the best finish by using 2-3 applicaitons of Formby's Tung Oil,
> then 2 or 3 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?
> One of those things, your scared to start but want it done right.
> There's no turning back!
> The desk is built in, which is built of red oak, with the desk top
> walnut and crown trim has a section of walnut, all else is oak - the
> backs of the uppers is beadboard .. which I would like to apply the
> Formby's tung oil to all, should this be covered with Poly as well, or
> is Formby's good enough, or is the Minwax fast drying great by itself?
>
> Any suggestions would be great! I've narrowed it down to these
> choices, but open to suggestions...
> Thanks,
> dcrab
>
I just did a jewelry box that had a couple coats of Danish Oil and then two
coats of Minwax Fast Drying Poly and it turned out great, or so everyone
tells me. :)
I personally didn't really see much of a difference after I put the second
coat of danish oil on.
"efgh" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:cyfBi.2428$bO6.2394@edtnps89...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Getting ready to finish a desk, the top is walnut with walnut inlay
>> and I would like a good durable finish. Have been experimenting with
>> just the Formby's Tung Oil and just simply Poly, question is... would
>> I get the best finish by using 2-3 applicaitons of Formby's Tung Oil,
>> then 2 or 3 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?
>> One of those things, your scared to start but want it done right.
>> There's no turning back!
>> The desk is built in, which is built of red oak, with the desk top
>> walnut and crown trim has a section of walnut, all else is oak - the
>> backs of the uppers is beadboard .. which I would like to apply the
>> Formby's tung oil to all, should this be covered with Poly as well, or
>> is Formby's good enough, or is the Minwax fast drying great by itself?
>>
>> Any suggestions would be great! I've narrowed it down to these
>> choices, but open to suggestions...
>> Thanks,
>> dcrab
>>
>
> I just did a jewelry box that had a couple coats of Danish Oil and then
> two coats of Minwax Fast Drying Poly and it turned out great, or so
> everyone tells me. :)
>
> I personally didn't really see much of a difference after I put the second
> coat of danish oil on.
>
Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and it
doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Getting ready to finish a desk, the top is walnut with walnut inlay
> and I would like a good durable finish. Have been experimenting with
> just the Formby's Tung Oil and just simply Poly, question is... would
> I get the best finish by using 2-3 applicaitons of Formby's Tung Oil,
> then 2 or 3 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?
> One of those things, your scared to start but want it done right.
> There's no turning back!
> The desk is built in, which is built of red oak, with the desk top
> walnut and crown trim has a section of walnut, all else is oak - the
> backs of the uppers is beadboard .. which I would like to apply the
> Formby's tung oil to all, should this be covered with Poly as well, or
> is Formby's good enough, or is the Minwax fast drying great by itself?
>
> Any suggestions would be great! I've narrowed it down to these
> choices, but open to suggestions...
> Thanks,
> dcrab
>
Formby's is dilute poly.
There is no harm to putting on two brands of poly, but no particular point
to it either.
Personally I would put LBO over all, let dry thoroughly, and put poly over
the desktop.
Note they call it "Tung Oil Finish". That is much like "Orange Drink" that
has no orange in it.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Toller"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>"efgh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:cyfBi.2428$bO6.2394@edtnps89...
>>> I just did a jewelry box that had a couple coats of Danish Oil and then
>>> two coats of Minwax Fast Drying Poly and it turned out great, or so
>>> everyone tells me. :)
>>>
>>> I personally didn't really see much of a difference after I put the
>>> second
>>> coat of danish oil on.
>>>
>>Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and it
>>doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
>
> Since when is oil a "film" finish?
>
When the surface is saturated and you add another coat. It's called
"curing" oil for a reason.
OTOH, most "Danish" oils aren't rich enough to saturate the surface after
only two coats, so the poly will likely be fine.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> .
>>>
>> Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and
>> it doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
>>
>
> There is really nothing wrong with putting a varnish over a Danish Oil.
> The oil is not much protection and should be covered if you want added
> protection.
>
Danish oil contains varnish and forms a soft film. Why would you put a hard
film over a soft film? It just encourages the hard film to be scratched?
Oil is not much protection and should be covered, true; but Danish Oil is
not oil.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> .
>>
> Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and it
> doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
>
There is really nothing wrong with putting a varnish over a Danish Oil. The
oil is not much protection and should be covered if you want added
protection.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "efgh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:cyfBi.2428$bO6.2394@edtnps89...
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Getting ready to finish a desk, the top is walnut with walnut inlay
>>> and I would like a good durable finish. Have been experimenting with
>>> just the Formby's Tung Oil and just simply Poly, question is... would
>>> I get the best finish by using 2-3 applicaitons of Formby's Tung Oil,
>>> then 2 or 3 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane?
>>> One of those things, your scared to start but want it done right.
>>> There's no turning back!
>>> The desk is built in, which is built of red oak, with the desk top
>>> walnut and crown trim has a section of walnut, all else is oak - the
>>> backs of the uppers is beadboard .. which I would like to apply the
>>> Formby's tung oil to all, should this be covered with Poly as well, or
>>> is Formby's good enough, or is the Minwax fast drying great by itself?
>>>
>>> Any suggestions would be great! I've narrowed it down to these
>>> choices, but open to suggestions...
>>> Thanks,
>>> dcrab
>>>
>>
>> I just did a jewelry box that had a couple coats of Danish Oil and then
>> two coats of Minwax Fast Drying Poly and it turned out great, or so
>> everyone tells me. :)
>>
>> I personally didn't really see much of a difference after I put the
>> second coat of danish oil on.
>>
> Actually that was not a good idea. Danish Oil is a very soft film, and it
> doesn't make much sense to put a hard film over a soft film.
Now you tell me.