JJ

"John"

12/11/2003 4:09 PM

Potter & Brumfield Magnetic Switch?

I bought a table saw that I want to change to 240v.

As nearly as I can figure, the power cord goes to a Square D pull out switch
(FP222R). From there it goes to a large Reitech momentary contact switch
(EZO-MS), and then to a Potter&Brumfield device of some sort, and then to
the motor. Unfortunately the part number is rubbed off the P&B device, but
it is a coil with some contacts on it, so I presume it is a magnetic switch.
I can make out 120v, so I am guessing it only good for 120v.

A picture of it is at http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/switch.htm

Is this guess likely correct? How would I go about changing to one capable
of handling 240v?
If someone is familiar with Potter & Brumfield switches, I would be grateful
for your help.



This topic has 4 replies

WL

"Wilson Lamb"

in reply to "John" on 12/11/2003 4:09 PM

12/11/2003 9:19 PM

You're going to need some adult supervision on this. As in other messages,
the coil has to be 120V if the tool was running on 120V before. You have to
be sure you are switching both hot leads and that the coil runs from one hot
to neutral.

I don't think you need a fourth wire, but code may ask for it. It's up to
you. Mine are all on 3 wire plugs.

I think talking you through this is more trouble than it's worth, unless you
find and can understand the schematic. Someone knowledgeable can do it in
five minutes. Don't you have any electrically oriented friends??

The magnetic switch is also called a relay. I'm sure you can find a
description through google, but not an exact schematic.

Be careful!

Wilson
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I bought a table saw that I want to change to 240v.
>
> As nearly as I can figure, the power cord goes to a Square D pull out
switch
> (FP222R). From there it goes to a large Reitech momentary contact switch
> (EZO-MS), and then to a Potter&Brumfield device of some sort, and then to
> the motor. Unfortunately the part number is rubbed off the P&B device,
but
> it is a coil with some contacts on it, so I presume it is a magnetic
switch.
> I can make out 120v, so I am guessing it only good for 120v.
>
> A picture of it is at http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/switch.htm
>
> Is this guess likely correct? How would I go about changing to one
capable
> of handling 240v?
> If someone is familiar with Potter & Brumfield switches, I would be
grateful
> for your help.
>
>
>

GM

"George M. Kazaka"

in reply to "John" on 12/11/2003 4:09 PM

12/11/2003 10:02 AM

Most Mag switches run on 110/120 volts even if you are using 240.
Even my 3 phase equipment that has mag starters are only on a 110 leg.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the cover, to tell you how to wire
it,


"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I bought a table saw that I want to change to 240v.
>
> As nearly as I can figure, the power cord goes to a Square D pull out
switch
> (FP222R). From there it goes to a large Reitech momentary contact switch
> (EZO-MS), and then to a Potter&Brumfield device of some sort, and then to
> the motor. Unfortunately the part number is rubbed off the P&B device,
but
> it is a coil with some contacts on it, so I presume it is a magnetic
switch.
> I can make out 120v, so I am guessing it only good for 120v.
>
> A picture of it is at
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/switch.htm
>
> Is this guess likely correct? How would I go about changing to one
capable
> of handling 240v?
> If someone is familiar with Potter & Brumfield switches, I would be
grateful
> for your help.
>
>
>

gG

in reply to "George M. Kazaka" on 12/11/2003 10:02 AM

12/11/2003 5:11 PM

>Most Mag switches run on 110/120 volts even if you are using 240.
>Even my 3 phase equipment that has mag starters are only on a 110 leg.
>There should be a wiring diagram inside the cover, to tell you how to wire
>it,

That would require a 4 wire power cord to be "legal".

JJ

"John"

in reply to "John" on 12/11/2003 4:09 PM

15/11/2003 2:49 PM


"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You're going to need some adult supervision on this. As in other
messages,
> the coil has to be 120V if the tool was running on 120V before. You have
to
> be sure you are switching both hot leads and that the coil runs from one
hot
> to neutral.
>
> I don't think you need a fourth wire, but code may ask for it. It's up to
> you. Mine are all on 3 wire plugs.
>
> I think talking you through this is more trouble than it's worth, unless
you
> find and can understand the schematic. Someone knowledgeable can do it in
> five minutes. Don't you have any electrically oriented friends??
>
I have identified the part as a PM-17AY-120. The manufacturer suggests
replacing it with a PM-17AY-240 for $90. That is a little out of my budget.

I haven't managed a schematic on it, but this is a catalog page on it.
http://www.sourceresearch.com/potter/pdf/pm_dsw.pdf

Any chance of making this work? Any way to get the schematic?

Thanks.


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