Just a follow up. It wasn't Amazon's fault. I looked at the box a little
closer....it was mis-labeled from Forrest. I called Forrest and talked to
one of their teckies. Seems it cuts a little easier, especially for ripping
which is what I do a lot of. I have a RAS for most of my crosscutting. I
have about decided to keep the blade. They said if I sent it back they would
exchange it, didn't offer to pay for the shipping back though.
Ron
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:pnDwe.16503$fM6.6382@trndny04...
>
> "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@teranews...
>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem,
>>I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I
>>will use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>
>> Thanks Ron
>
> The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a
> couple of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be
> overgrowing from the savings on trees.
>
> Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo. Newbie
> that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it was a
> thin kerf versus a full kerf.
>
> There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting using
> a miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is up
> against the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same
> regardless of blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set
> up to use a full kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off by
> 1/32". Big deal? Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not
> critical. Sometimes the length is not critical as long as all four legs
> are the same.
>
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:n%[email protected]...
> 1/8" is (4) 32nds.
What kind of calculator did you use to arrive at that? I need to know where
to get them.
SH - the "I'm sorry I couldn't resist" woodworker
Phisherman wrote:
> On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
>>ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
>>use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>
>>Thanks Ron
>
>
> You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
> "uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
> downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
> the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
> the thicker blade for most of my applications.
Last time I looked at a tape measure, 3/32" was SMALLER than 1/8". :)
Dave
Ron Stitt wrote:
> I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only
> problem, I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down
> side of keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I
> ordered? I will use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>
> Thanks Ron
I have both but always have the 1/8 in the saw unless I am doing lots of
rips from an unmeasured piece of lumber or if the 1/8 is in for
sharpening. Niether of these are really the right choice for xcutting.
Benefits of the 1/8 in my opinion are:
easier to calculate multiple cuts when working with a 1/8 kerf
doesn't need a stiffener
gives a cleaner cut face
It may use more power but I have a 3HP Delta and haven't noticed any
problems.
JC
I have the WWII, thin kerf (3/32") on my Delta contractor saw, and it works
fine. In fact, I think the thin kerf blade is recommended for contractors
saws, since it requires less power than the 1/8" blade. I have used it
exclusively for 3 years and am completely happy with it.
Paul
"Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@teranews...
>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem,
>I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I
>will use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>
> Thanks Ron
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 18:41:11 GMT, Brian Kerr
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Phisherman wrote:
>> On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
>>>ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>>>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
>>>use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>>
>>>Thanks Ron
>>
>>
>> You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
>> "uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
>> downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
>> the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
>> the thicker blade for most of my applications.
>
>Forgive my ignorance, but how does a 3/32" blade "use" more wood than an
>1/8" blade???
Oops, my mistake! I was tired when I posted this--I transposed the
3/32 and 1/8" !!!
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Oops, my mistake! I was tired when I posted this--I transposed the
> 3/32 and 1/8" !!!
Sort of like when I cut pieces 10 9/16" long and they come out to the little
line on the OTHER side of the half inch mark?
on 6/29/2005 1:35 PM Phisherman said the following:
> On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
>>ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
>>use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>
>>Thanks Ron
>
>
> You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
> "uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
> downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
> the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
> the thicker blade for most of my applications.
Really? A 3/32" blade "uses" more wood than a 1/8th" (a/k/a 4/32")blade?
It would really take a keen eye and well set stop block, fence, etc. but
I think you just might be able to do a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade
in two passes with a very minor adjustment of said stop block or fence.<g>
Otherwise, I agree totally with what you said. As the other poster
mentioned though, with the contractor saw he MIGHT be a bit better off
with the 3/32" thin kerf blade than the standard 1/8" if he's cutting
thicker hardwoods.
And I'm not talking Viagra!!!
Knew some of the wreckies were going to go there.....
"D Steck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You may consider buying the stiffner - Forrest recommends it with the thin
> kerf blades.
>
>
> "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:1120082366.66bf293500aef54138eb09fe7b586625@teranews...
>> Just a follow up. It wasn't Amazon's fault. I looked at the box a little
>> closer....it was mis-labeled from Forrest. I called Forrest and talked
>> to one of their teckies. Seems it cuts a little easier, especially for
>> ripping which is what I do a lot of. I have a RAS for most of my
>> crosscutting. I have about decided to keep the blade. They said if I sent
>> it back they would exchange it, didn't offer to pay for the shipping back
>> though.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:pnDwe.16503$fM6.6382@trndny04...
>>>
>>> "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@teranews...
>>>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only
>>>>problem, I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down
>>>>side of keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I
>>>>ordered? I will use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Ron
>>>
>>> The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a
>>> couple of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be
>>> overgrowing from the savings on trees.
>>>
>>> Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo.
>>> Newbie that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it
>>> was a thin kerf versus a full kerf.
>>>
>>> There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting
>>> using a miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is
>>> up against the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same
>>> regardless of blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set
>>> up to use a full kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off
>>> by 1/32". Big deal? Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not
>>> critical. Sometimes the length is not critical as long as all four legs
>>> are the same.
>>>
>>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
>"uses" more wood when it cuts.
You misspelled "less".
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
"Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> it was mis-labeled from Forrest.
> They said if I sent it back they would exchange it, didn't offer to pay
> for the shipping back though.
Mistakes happen, but fix them. Free. They should read Lee Valley's
warranty.
Phisherman wrote:
> On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
>>ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
>>use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>
>>Thanks Ron
>
>
> You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
> "uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
> downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
> the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
> the thicker blade for most of my applications.
Forgive my ignorance, but how does a 3/32" blade "use" more wood than an
1/8" blade???
"Phisherman" wrote in message
> Oops, my mistake! I was tired when I posted this--I transposed the
> 3/32 and 1/8" !!!
LOL - just wish it was as easy to fix the cutting of one opposing side of a
drawer 1/2" shorter than the other, AND not even noticing it until you go to
mount the bottom, as it is to fix digital bits. ;)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05
You may consider buying the stiffner - Forrest recommends it with the thin
kerf blades.
"Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1120082366.66bf293500aef54138eb09fe7b586625@teranews...
> Just a follow up. It wasn't Amazon's fault. I looked at the box a little
> closer....it was mis-labeled from Forrest. I called Forrest and talked to
> one of their teckies. Seems it cuts a little easier, especially for
> ripping which is what I do a lot of. I have a RAS for most of my
> crosscutting. I have about decided to keep the blade. They said if I sent
> it back they would exchange it, didn't offer to pay for the shipping back
> though.
>
> Ron
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:pnDwe.16503$fM6.6382@trndny04...
>>
>> "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@teranews...
>>>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only
>>>problem, I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down
>>>side of keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I
>>>ordered? I will use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>>>
>>> Thanks Ron
>>
>> The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a
>> couple of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be
>> overgrowing from the savings on trees.
>>
>> Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo. Newbie
>> that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it was a
>> thin kerf versus a full kerf.
>>
>> There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting using
>> a miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is up
>> against the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same
>> regardless of blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set
>> up to use a full kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off
>> by 1/32". Big deal? Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not
>> critical. Sometimes the length is not critical as long as all four legs
>> are the same.
>>
>
"Ron Stitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1120067182.0321394b9f19cade8de67101dbf96dbf@teranews...
>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem,
>I ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I
>will use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>
> Thanks Ron
The thin kerfs save a lot of wood. You can probably save enough in a couple
of years to pay your kid's college education. Woodlands will be overgrowing
from the savings on trees.
Seriously, the first blade I bought was a thin kerf Freud Diablo. Newbie
that I was, I used it for probably two years before I realized it was a thin
kerf versus a full kerf.
There is only one downside that I'm aware of, that is cross cutting using a
miter with a scale on the stop. The right side of the blade is up against
the arbor flange and the distance to the fence is the same regardless of
blade. I use an Accu Miter that has a stop and it was set up to use a full
kerf blade. When I change to the thin kerf, it is off by 1/32". Big deal?
Not if I remember, or not if the dimension is not critical. Sometimes the
length is not critical as long as all four legs are the same.
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:45:56 -0400, "Ron Stitt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I ordered a WWII TS blade from Amazon and received it today. Only problem, I
>ordered !/8" and they sent a 3/32" instead! What is the down side of
>keeping this blade vs. sending it back and getting the one I ordered? I will
>use it on a Delta contractor saw.
>
>Thanks Ron
You can't make a 1/8" groove with the 3/32" blade. A 3/32" also
"uses" more wood when it cuts. If these two items are not really
downsides for your application, the 3/32" blade might be better than
the thinner blade as it has less deflection. Of these two, I'd prefer
the thicker blade for most of my applications.