I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today. I
was able to remove them with a little scrubbing, but what do you guys do to
protect the surface from rust. I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my table
saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
jointer/table saw?
Thanks.
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
> stoutman wrote:
> >
> Others noted re Si, etc. Another possibility would be to cover stuff at
> night w/ permeable tarps...these can help. Best bet is to climatize the
> shop if possible.
> Unfortunately, I can't in the barn where mine is now set up, at least
> until can finish closing in and put in some interior partitions and
> weather-proofing. :(
A fan, running 24/7 for going on four years, is one of the best rust
preventatives in my un-air-conditioned shop. May not work well in all
climates, but it works like a charm here in Houston.
On that note, I occasionally looked after the machined surfaces in an
air-conditioned shop, less than two miles from mine and with no fan, for a
friend (divorcee) who was constantly battling rust in the shop her husband
left behind.
Once she installed and kept a fan, running, her rust problems diminished to
the point that she could handle it herself with occasional applications of
TopCote.
Any new husband is going to be grateful, and not just for it being rust free
... the shop is 3200 sf, with a resident forklift! :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
In article <[email protected]>, stoutman
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my table
> saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
> jointer/table saw?
Anything with silicone in it will cause you grief when you want to
apply a finish to your project(s).
--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows
I use my machines constantly. The weather here has been rainy/humid for
weeks. Wednesday I went into the shop and found everything made of metal
was "sweating" and needless to say, the table tops all have a small rust
forming. I spend quite a bit of time cleaning and protecting them,
Johnson's wax is applied regularly and Top Cote is applied more often, if
anything just to reduce friction. I've found nothing that eliminates rust
entirely. The machines can be fine one day, and have a thin layer of rust
the next depending on the weather.
For quickly removing the rust, i prefer to mist the tables with WD 40
and lightly wet sand with 600grit sandpaper, then dry with a rag. After
that, I apply Johnson's paste wax for protection.
The only way to completely prevent rust would be to condition the space and
keep humidity low by adding a dehumidifier if needed. --dave
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jeff P. wrote:
>>To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a
>>tool
>>top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I
>>take
>>a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
>>clean.
>
>
> Lately I'm leaning towards the thinking that with the low
> humidity where we live (don't tell the others/they'll just
> want to move here) we're pretty lucky. I run the
> de-humidifier during the "warm" weeks (that period between
> July 1 and July 30) and do almost nothing the remaining
> months. Also, you and I do have our shops located correctly
> (basement/in a conditioned space). I don't wax my machine
> surfaces at all and I don't see a lick of rust.
>
> Also, I painted my shop floor and walls and while I don't
> think it sounds like much I think that has created a great
> vapor barrier.
>
> And it does help to use the machines.
>
> UA100, edgebanding white PVC today onna 'count of the Lee
> Valley order came yesterday...
Dave Jackson wrote:
> I use my machines constantly. The weather here has been rainy/humid
> for
> weeks. Wednesday I went into the shop and found everything made of metal
> was "sweating" and needless to say, the table tops all have a small rust
> forming. I spend quite a bit of time cleaning and protecting them,
> Johnson's wax is applied regularly and Top Cote is applied more often, if
> anything just to reduce friction. I've found nothing that eliminates rust
> entirely. The machines can be fine one day, and have a thin layer of rust
> the next depending on the weather.
Cheap box fan! I'm a believer. It's almost magic how well that works.
Johnson's paste wax helps too, but wax alone doesn't stand up to the
onslaught at certain critical times of year. The trick is to stop the
sweating in the first place, which the fan does by keeping the air moving
too fast to condense on the cool metal. Or something.
I still get some sweating in obscure corners of the shop that don't get
their air stirred up very well, but my rust problems have gone from
everything ferrous turning horribly rusty overnight to getting a few odd
spots of rust in obscure places a couple times a year.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
stoutman wrote:
>
Others noted re Si, etc. Another possibility would be to cover stuff at
night w/ permeable tarps...these can help. Best bet is to climatize the
shop if possible.
Unfortunately, I can't in the barn where mine is now set up, at least
until can finish closing in and put in some interior partitions and
weather-proofing. :(
Kenneth wrote:
>
...(regarding fan in shop preventing/minimizing rusting tables, etc.)...
> Why might it work?
>
> I would think that the only variables of significance would
> be the humidity, and the temperature. The fan would not seem
> to affect either.
Moving air across the surface causes higher evaporation rate that can
help if moisture isn't <too> excessive.
Swingman wrote:
...
> A fan, running 24/7 for going on four years, is one of the best rust
> preventatives in my un-air-conditioned shop. ...
Problem w/ the barn is, well...it's a barn! :)
Isn't tight, and original portions never will be...but it's best I got
at present until get it finished and have time to enclose an area of the
loft as a permanent shop area...so, I cover stuff up when it's going to
snow 'n blow as now, or rain w/ <real> wind....we're normally arid so
just air-induced surface rust isn't too much of an issue except in cold
weather (such as now) when condensation can be an issue. There, the
cover minimizes problems as well.
There's enough draft normally through there a fan would be of little
difference plus I don't like to leave stuff running out there even if it
is "just a fan" w/ the various varmints that can and do inhabit the
place either permanently or show up at night...
"Jeff P." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a
tool
> top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I
take
> a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
> clean.
>
You don't turn green wood, do you?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> And to Leon: you're right .. it's off of Kirby north of Bisonnett. I
> posted
> information here about her sale of wood and other items about a year or so
> back, so if you went to that sale, you'll know what I am talking about.
I went but I think a lot of it was sold. Is there anything left that she
wants to sell? I do recall seeing a bunch of STUFF/Toys that you and I were
talking about a few weeks ago.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 11/06/04
>
>
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:58:40 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today.
it's a lemon. send it back.
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:58:40 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today. I
>was able to remove them with a little scrubbing, but what do you guys do to
>protect the surface from rust. I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my table
>saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
>jointer/table saw?
>
>Thanks.
>
=====================
EVERYONE is going to advise you NOT to use Car wax.... since they
usually contain selicone...
However I restore and show cars and honestly I have not found the
"perfect" car wax YET... so I have at least a dozen brands of car wax
in the garages SO guess what I use on my Table saws etc....YEP
whatever can I reach first...
Never had any problem "finishing" my projects ... again I will use the
word YET.
Johnsons or Butchers waxes is what everyone will recommend I bet...
BTW...I like Zaino or Finish First for my cars,.... both sell for a
little over a hundred bucks a gallon however ... nothing is cheap that
works good.... lol.. .
Bob Griffiths
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 12:15:04 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Cheap box fan! I'm a believer. It's almost magic how well that works.
Howdy,
I don't dispute that, but...
Why might it work?
I would think that the only variables of significance would
be the humidity, and the temperature. The fan would not seem
to affect either.
Can anyone help? (Or is this fan thing just coincidence?)
Thanks,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
Jeff P. wrote:
>To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a tool
>top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I take
>a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
>clean.
Lately I'm leaning towards the thinking that with the low
humidity where we live (don't tell the others/they'll just
want to move here) we're pretty lucky. I run the
de-humidifier during the "warm" weeks (that period between
July 1 and July 30) and do almost nothing the remaining
months. Also, you and I do have our shops located correctly
(basement/in a conditioned space). I don't wax my machine
surfaces at all and I don't see a lick of rust.
Also, I painted my shop floor and walls and while I don't
think it sounds like much I think that has created a great
vapor barrier.
And it does help to use the machines.
UA100, edgebanding white PVC today onna 'count of the Lee
Valley order came yesterday...
"stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today. I
>was able to remove them with a little scrubbing, but what do you guys do to
>protect the surface from rust. I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my
>table saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
>jointer/table saw?
>
> Thanks.
No car wax as it may contain silicone
To remove rust, Top Saver is fantastic. Comes in a spray bottle and has the
plastic scrubbies in the package.
To avoid rust, use either Top Cote, Boeshield, or a paste wax like
Johnson's Wax.
> Once she installed and kept a fan, running, her rust problems diminished
> to
> the point that she could handle it herself with occasional applications of
> TopCote.
>
> Any new husband is going to be grateful, and not just for it being rust
> free
> ... the shop is 3200 sf, with a resident forklift! :)
Swingman was that the place that is on Bisonnett near Kirby?
"Jeff P." wrote in message
> To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a
tool
> top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I
take
> a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
> clean.
Don't count on it. What really matters is the climate you live in, the
"climate control" in the shop tailored to that climate, and judicious use of
rust preventative techniques and products.
There is no one solution to the problem, and especially not "use" ... unless
you're prepared to "use" a tool 24/7 in some climates.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
"Duane Bozarth" < wrote in message
> Swingman wrote:
> ...
> > A fan, running 24/7 for going on four years, is one of the best rust
> > preventatives in my un-air-conditioned shop. ...
>
> Problem w/ the barn is, well...it's a barn! :)
Merely remarking on my solution/experience down here in the much less arid
Gulf Coast. While I wasn't recommending a fan for your barn, particularly
knowing where you are, I'd bet that my shop is almost as "drafty" ... IOW,
and except for the roof, the "climate" outside, is generally the "climate"
inside. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
Juergen Hannappel wrote:
>And does the Paint stay?
Because of schedule (we needed to get into the house) I used
regular old porch paint (a latex product) from (insert big
box store here) and it's held up pretty well. There are
many,many, many quarter (twenty five cents) sized spots
where the paint has lifted but for the most part I'd have to
say that 99.50% of the floor is still covered.
I did go back one day and re-painted a swath around my table
saw and it's held up really good, actually looks great. My
thinking is to re-paint small sections (4' X 4' or 10' X
10') ever so often until the entire floor is re-painted. I
am leaning towards something other than the existing Sea
Foam Green.
>The cellar I use as a workshop has a wall
>that someone painted with shiny green impenetrable paint, and the
>moisture that wants to come out of the wall has pushed the paint
>togeter with the plaster off the wall (it's a standard elderly german
>house with stone walls and no special tricks to keep moisture out)
I used a wall paint with a fungicide and after 5ish years
it's held up. The foundation is cinder clock (CMU)
construction and somewhere around 45 years old. We do live
on the edge of a swamp though and the sump pump cycles all
day, all year round. Still, I don't experience rising damp.
UA100
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:58:40 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my table
>saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
>jointer/table saw?
Howdy,
Yes.
Many car waxes have silicones in them. That (even in tiny
amounts) can be the kiss of death for many wood finishes.
All the best,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> With out using TopCote I get rust over night particularly after I have
> used it the day before.
>
The first year I had my saw I waxed it but then did nothing for a few months
Once warm humid day I opened the still cool garage door. I could see it
getting a brown haze as I stood there with my mouth open in astonishment.
Next day I bought a can of Top Cote.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
Geesh.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:58:40 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today.
>
>
> it's a lemon. send it back.
"Leon" wrote in message
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
>
> > And to Leon: you're right .. it's off of Kirby north of Bisonnett. I
> > posted
> > information here about her sale of wood and other items about a year or
so
> > back, so if you went to that sale, you'll know what I am talking about.
>
> I went but I think a lot of it was sold. Is there anything left that she
> wants to sell? I do recall seeing a bunch of STUFF/Toys that you and I
were
> talking about a few weeks ago.
The toy situation is a bizzare story in itself ...
A big Delta commercial DC, Delta 8" jointer (not a DJ-20, I would have made
her an offer on that despite not having the room, and the fact that she's
been such a good and kind friend to our family that I simply could not bring
myself to reap any benefit whatsoever from her misfortune), Delta band saw
(>14" but I can't recall the exact model), and some other smaller
woodworking items are all apparently being rented by the current tenant.
From what I understand, that might all change relatively soon, though.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a tool
top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I take
a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
clean.
--
Jeff P.
"A ship carrying blue paint collided with a ship carrying red paint. The
crew are believed to be marooned."
Check out my woodshop at: www.sawdustcentral.com
"stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today.
I
> was able to remove them with a little scrubbing, but what do you guys do
to
> protect the surface from rust. I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my
table
> saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
> jointer/table saw?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:04:10 -0600, "Jeff P."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a tool
>top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I take
>a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
>clean.
Very true.
A bit of wax helps the action, though.
Barry
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
> Kenneth wrote:
> >
> ...(regarding fan in shop preventing/minimizing rusting tables, etc.)...
>
> > Why might it work?
> >
> > I would think that the only variables of significance would
> > be the humidity, and the temperature. The fan would not seem
> > to affect either.
>
> Moving air across the surface causes higher evaporation rate that can
> help if moisture isn't <too> excessive.
... and a fan helps to keep the air at a more even temperature throughout
the shop, which also helps.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:49:20 -0500, Bob G.
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Never had any problem "finishing" my projects ... again I will use the
>word YET.
Have you used lacquer on any wood projects yet? That's usually the
most affected. Oils and shellac usually aren't affected at all.
Barry
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:58:40 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Anybody advise against using car wax on my
>jointer/table saw?
Car wax is fine, if it's a high-end silicone-free product, like
Meguires <sp?> or Mothers. I'll bet Turtle Wax is full of silicone.
For that matter, keep the Armor All, Pledge, etc... out of the shop.
To be safe, stick with a good paste wax, available at any good paint
store. Good brands are Johnson's, Trewax, Briwax, among others.
If silicone contamination shows up you'll be ready to jump off a
bridge.
Barry
"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
> Swingman wrote:
> >Any new husband is going to be grateful, and not just for it being rust
free
> >... the shop is 3200 sf, with a resident forklift! :)
>
>
> And you haven't married her yet? Oh I know, the "wife
> wouldn't approve", right? You don't have to tell your wife
> everything, do you?
Never gave it a thought. She's still single, and still my wife's best
friend.
I'll admit that if I wasn't so satisfied with what I have, it would have
been pretty hard to take seeing someone handed a dream shop, with an easy
$100K investment in tools, wood and supplies, not including the building
itself paid for, and then watch them piss it off, after making a half dozen
pens, from a kit.
There was _nothing_ left to want in that shop ... and the best of
everything. But I am still of the mind that having all that dropped into
your lap would have ruined the fun of it, at least for me ... then again,
very little of the equipment would have even fit in my shop.
I was aware of the shop for about two years, had heard stories about it and
the equipment, but wasn't invited to see it by the idiot in question because
he "didn't want anyone to see it until he got it organized."
Next thing I know I am cleaning up two years worth of rust on equipment that
most of us here would have given our eyeteeth for.
And to Leon: you're right .. it's off of Kirby north of Bisonnett. I posted
information here about her sale of wood and other items about a year or so
back, so if you went to that sale, you'll know what I am talking about.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
My new saw 4 years ago rusted over night after I cleaned the coating off the
top. 1 coat of Top Cote was not enough for the initial application. Now I
reapply about every 6 months.
You mentioned Top Saver in another post. IIRC they invented TopCote and
sold it to Bostich.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>> With out using TopCote I get rust over night particularly after I have
>> used it the day before.
>>
>
> The first year I had my saw I waxed it but then did nothing for a few
> months Once warm humid day I opened the still cool garage door. I could
> see it getting a brown haze as I stood there with my mouth open in
> astonishment. Next day I bought a can of Top Cote.
> --
> Ed
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
>
"Jeff P." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> To paraphrase the wisdom of Unisaw A100 the best way to avoid rust on a
> tool
> top is to use the tool. The only time I get rust on my tools is when I
> take
> a bit of time off from the woodshop. With regular use they stay shiny and
> clean.
That will not keep rust off of a tool in a humid climate unless you are
using the tool literally non stop. With out using TopCote I get rust over
night particularly after I have used it the day before.
Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> Also, I painted my shop floor and walls and while I don't
> think it sounds like much I think that has created a great
> vapor barrier.
And does the Paint stay? The cellar I use as a workshop has a wall
that someone painted with shiny green impenetrable paint, and the
moisture that wants to come out of the wall has pushed the paint
togeter with the plaster off the wall (it's a standard elderly german
house with stone walls and no special tricks to keep moisture out)
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
"stoutman" wrote in message
> I noticed a few very small rust spots on the tables of my jointer today.
I
> was able to remove them with a little scrubbing, but what do you guys do
to
> protect the surface from rust. I have used car wax (turtle wax) on my
table
> saw in the past for this. Anybody advise against using car wax on my
> jointer/table saw?
It is conventional wisdom that waxes which contain silicone may give you
problems with some wood finishes. If you want to be on the safe side in this
regard, diligent and frequent application of products that contain no
silicone, like TopCote, BoeShield and Johnson's Paste Wax are pretty good
protection for cast iron surfaces in most climates.
BTW, "Sandflex" blocks are great for removing rust from cast iron surfaces.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04