BA

"Ben"

27/02/2005 10:45 AM

Delta Contractor Saw Question

I've got the 10" Delta Contractor saw, Platinum Edition with the Unisaw
and the 30" extension. I'm finding that the extension, which is really
little more than piece of countertop, tends to warp and simply won't
align flush with the table top--it tends to ride up at the outfeed
side.

I'm thinking I'd like to just simply replace the extension table with a
regular cast iron extension wing like the one on the left side of the
table. It would give me a flush, all-metal surface, and it would also
make it easier to put some sort of mobile base under it, since I
wouldn't have to worry about the extension legs in addition to the saw
base legs.

So the question becomes, is this do-able? Will the Unisaw get enough
support with just one cast iron extension table on the right instead of
the whole 30" table? Does Delta even make a cast iron extension table
that will allow for this (the catalog is less than clear on this)?

TIA for any help/suggestions you can offer.


This topic has 7 replies

BA

"Ben"

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

27/02/2005 5:26 PM


Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Ben wrote:
> > I've got the 10" Delta Contractor saw, Platinum Edition with the
Unisaw
> > and the 30" extension. I'm finding that the extension, which is
really
> > little more than piece of countertop, tends to warp and simply
won't
> > align flush with the table top--it tends to ride up at the outfeed
> > side.
>
> <snip>
>
> Something doesn't add up.
>
> I have the same package for which I added a mobile base consisting of
a
> couple of weldments that bolt together to form a unit base.
>
> System works just fine.

I love the saw...it's just the extension table that's the issue. I was
also hesitant to use the extended mobile base because I was worried
that the extension table would shift around as the saw was moved.

>
> I'm in SoCal and keep the saw outside covered by a tarp which some
years
> means a bunch of rain, like 34" YTD, this year.
>
> It's been that way for 5 years. So far, so good other than the
melamine
> edge banding which long ago too a hike.
>
> Every so often, it's time for some WD40 and 150 grit on my ROS,
followed
> by some wax but that is NBD.
>
> Got any idea what is causing the warping?

Not really. It's almost as if it wants to cup in a u-shape, and rides
slightly above the saw table at front and rear while dipping just below
it in the center. I found that if I adjusted the front of it so it was
level with the table, then it was most pronounced at the rear of the
table--but then, I was able to use my fence more easily.

>
> BTW, one of these days, will replace that piece of melamine covered
MDF.
>
> When I do, will use a piece of "B" grade, 13 ply, fixture grade
material
> covered with a plastic laminate on top and having ALL other raw
surfaces
> sealed with a couple of coats of laminating epoxy.

I like this idea and was originally going to do something similar to
it, when I was going to make a router table extension. But then I
thought maybe I'd attach another cast iron extension and do a smaller
piece of melamine.

>
> That puppy will still be here when my grand kids are gone.

Hell, I just want to use it a bit longer before my son confiscates it.
lol

>
> HTH
>
> Lew

BA

"Ben"

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

28/02/2005 3:54 AM


Dan Valleskey wrote:
> I have that set up. BTW, your terminology is off a bit, I think,
what
> you have is a Unifence.

Yikes! lol You're right--I meant to type Unifence.

>
> I have no warping on the extension table, but I used a friends big
> Unisaw (with a Unifence) that had a "hump" in the extension.
>
> If it was me, first step would be to replace the board. Upgrade the
> material, as Lew suggested. Even Baltic Birch would be better than
> the Melamine.
>
> Hey, just a crazy thought here- have you checked the cast iron part?
> I've heard horror stories about those, though not on the Platinum
> versions (USA made). Could be some of your warp is on the iron side!

Yep, checked the iron first...nice and flat.

>
> If you bolt on a new cast iron wing, the Unifence will work, but only
> as long as there is table for it to slide on. You will still need to
> add some sort of extension. Look on the end of the Unifence furthest
> from you, not the aluminum extrusion section, but look at the cast
> hunk of metal. On the underside there is a little glider thing, with
> a slick plastic insert. That would have to slide on something.
> Otherwise, your 30 inch Unifence will be about a 16 inch Unifence.
> Too short for most guys.
>
> I suppose you could also bolt on two or more cast wings. Not sure
how
> much good that would do you though.
>
> Also, you may have trouble finding an affordable CI wing. Shipping
> will kill you.
>
> You mention concern over the mobile base. The Delta base is great, I
> shove mine around all the time, never get any misalignments. It is a
> robust design. Get the long version, made for the 30 inch fence.
You
> actually get two pieces, they bolt together.
>
> In fact, a mobile base may even help you some. When I had to set my
> saw up without the base on a crooked basement floor, I had troubles
> with the extension, it took extra time to get the extra legs set just
> right. Than if I moved it, it took me another hunk of time to
> re-adjust the table extension legs. No such troubles with the mobile
> base.

Good to hear. The mobile base just didn't look all that rugged in the
photos.

>
> Don't try to re-invent the wheel. That saw works well as supplied
for
> some damn good craftsmen. Really, if Lew Hodgett doesn't need an
> extra cast extension, you don't either.

Yeah, it's looking more and more like my best option is to replace the
extension table with something like melamine.

Ms

Mike

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

27/02/2005 2:27 PM

On 27 Feb 2005 10:45:01 -0800, "Ben" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm thinking I'd like to just simply replace the extension table with a<snip>
>So the question becomes, is this do-able? Will the Unisaw get enough
>support with just one cast iron extension table on the right instead of
>the whole 30" table?

As far as the mobile base goes, Delta does make an extension that
bolts to the normal mobile base. It's made to be long enough to pick
up the legs of the 30" table. It works pretty well.
I'm not sure if the fence rail will get enough support. You could
move your wing from the left side to the right (I'm pretty sure they
are interchangeable) and try if for a while. If you don't think it
has enough support you might be able to come up with a piece of angle
iron to use for a support.

>Does Delta even make a cast iron extension table
>that will allow for this (the catalog is less than clear on this)?

I think the cast iron wing on the left side is the same one to use on
the right. Take the one you have off, turn it around and see if the
holes match up. I think they will.

Mike O.

DV

Dan Valleskey

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

27/02/2005 11:29 PM


I have that set up. BTW, your terminology is off a bit, I think, what
you have is a Unifence.

I have no warping on the extension table, but I used a friends big
Unisaw (with a Unifence) that had a "hump" in the extension.

If it was me, first step would be to replace the board. Upgrade the
material, as Lew suggested. Even Baltic Birch would be better than
the Melamine.

Hey, just a crazy thought here- have you checked the cast iron part?
I've heard horror stories about those, though not on the Platinum
versions (USA made). Could be some of your warp is on the iron side!

If you bolt on a new cast iron wing, the Unifence will work, but only
as long as there is table for it to slide on. You will still need to
add some sort of extension. Look on the end of the Unifence furthest
from you, not the aluminum extrusion section, but look at the cast
hunk of metal. On the underside there is a little glider thing, with
a slick plastic insert. That would have to slide on something.
Otherwise, your 30 inch Unifence will be about a 16 inch Unifence.
Too short for most guys.

I suppose you could also bolt on two or more cast wings. Not sure how
much good that would do you though.

Also, you may have trouble finding an affordable CI wing. Shipping
will kill you.

You mention concern over the mobile base. The Delta base is great, I
shove mine around all the time, never get any misalignments. It is a
robust design. Get the long version, made for the 30 inch fence. You
actually get two pieces, they bolt together.

In fact, a mobile base may even help you some. When I had to set my
saw up without the base on a crooked basement floor, I had troubles
with the extension, it took extra time to get the extra legs set just
right. Than if I moved it, it took me another hunk of time to
re-adjust the table extension legs. No such troubles with the mobile
base.

Don't try to re-invent the wheel. That saw works well as supplied for
some damn good craftsmen. Really, if Lew Hodgett doesn't need an
extra cast extension, you don't either.


-Dan V.


On 27 Feb 2005 10:45:01 -0800, "Ben" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I've got the 10" Delta Contractor saw, Platinum Edition with the Unisaw
>and the 30" extension. I'm finding that the extension, which is really
>little more than piece of countertop, tends to warp and simply won't
>align flush with the table top--it tends to ride up at the outfeed
>side.
>
>I'm thinking I'd like to just simply replace the extension table with a
>regular cast iron extension wing like the one on the left side of the
>table. It would give me a flush, all-metal surface, and it would also
>make it easier to put some sort of mobile base under it, since I
>wouldn't have to worry about the extension legs in addition to the saw
>base legs.
>
>So the question becomes, is this do-able? Will the Unisaw get enough
>support with just one cast iron extension table on the right instead of
>the whole 30" table? Does Delta even make a cast iron extension table
>that will allow for this (the catalog is less than clear on this)?
>
>TIA for any help/suggestions you can offer.

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

28/02/2005 3:37 AM


"Ben" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Not really. It's almost as if it wants to cup in a u-shape, and rides
> slightly above the saw table at front and rear while dipping just below
> it in the center. I found that if I adjusted the front of it so it was
> level with the table, then it was most pronounced at the rear of the
> table--but then, I was able to use my fence more easily.

Sorry to hear of your problem. Mine is still very flat. You can put a CI
wing on the side. The same wing fits on either left or right. It would be
very nice when done. Add two!




Ms

Mike

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

27/02/2005 11:06 PM

On 27 Feb 2005 17:26:42 -0800, "Ben" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Not really. It's almost as if it wants to cup in a u-shape, and rides
>slightly above the saw table at front and rear while dipping just below
>it in the center. I found that if I adjusted the front of it so it was
>level with the table, then it was most pronounced at the rear of the
>table--but then, I was able to use my fence more easily.

Does your extension table connect to the saw in three places?

Mine has three small angle pieces connected to the underside of the
extension board and then bolts from there to the side of the saw table
top. You can set each end of the extension flush, tighten the front
and back bolts, then push up or down on the middle (to get any warp
out of the board) and then tighten the center bolt.

Mike O.

LH

Lew Hodgett

in reply to "Ben" on 27/02/2005 10:45 AM

27/02/2005 10:56 PM

Ben wrote:
> I've got the 10" Delta Contractor saw, Platinum Edition with the Unisaw
> and the 30" extension. I'm finding that the extension, which is really
> little more than piece of countertop, tends to warp and simply won't
> align flush with the table top--it tends to ride up at the outfeed
> side.

<snip>

Something doesn't add up.

I have the same package for which I added a mobile base consisting of a
couple of weldments that bolt together to form a unit base.

System works just fine.

I'm in SoCal and keep the saw outside covered by a tarp which some years
means a bunch of rain, like 34" YTD, this year.

It's been that way for 5 years. So far, so good other than the melamine
edge banding which long ago too a hike.

Every so often, it's time for some WD40 and 150 grit on my ROS, followed
by some wax but that is NBD.

Got any idea what is causing the warping?

BTW, one of these days, will replace that piece of melamine covered MDF.

When I do, will use a piece of "B" grade, 13 ply, fixture grade material
covered with a plastic laminate on top and having ALL other raw surfaces
sealed with a couple of coats of laminating epoxy.

That puppy will still be here when my grand kids are gone.

HTH

Lew


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