ss

sam

04/03/2009 6:35 PM

which roundover bit to use

Hi!
I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
router table much tho.
The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch board.
The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a
router table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on
the surface in 1/16th of an inch.

What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inch
with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the board.
I know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)

SOLUTION:



Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
Paul


This topic has 13 replies

BB

Bored Borg

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

05/03/2009 10:10 PM

On Thu, 5 Mar 2009 02:05:39 +0000, sam wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
<snippety doo-dah>
>>
> >> So drill the
> first 3 inches, then let the bit return up, raise the table and finsih
> the second 2 inches, Of course the main purpose of a drill press is to
> grab wood and spin it into your hands and gut so use a vice or clamp
> setup for tha material.
>
> What a clever idea! thanks

It might be easier (depending if your drill table winds up on a crank, or
like mine is released and wrenched into a new position, thereby losing its
lateral set-up) to put a big block of wood on your table and put your
workpiece on that instead of raising the table, You'll need to clamp down
another block or two to position it against.

LM

"Lee Michaels"

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 7:58 PM


"sam" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I just thought of another question! The board is five inches thick and I
> need to drill a 5/16 hole in it. I have a 6 inch drill but my drill press
> will not go down that far, so I can't drill a hole all the way through it.
> Is there any other solution other than turning it over, drill from the
> other side and hope it meets in the middle?

Probably the simplist approach would be to drill it as deep as you can.
Then put in a longer virsion of the same bit. Long drill bits are
available.

If the drill you have is slong enough, drill then put the stock up on blocks
and finis the hole.

I have used a spade bit to finish a hole started with a forstner bit. With
some solid backing, it was fairly smooth.


DB

Dave Balderstone

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 10:42 PM

In article <[email protected]>, sam <[email protected]> wrote:

> I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the
> thickesss of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle.

Search for "bullnose router bit"

EP

"Ed Pawlowski"

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 11:15 PM


"sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
> Thanks all for responding. I tried to attach a pic but the msg wouldn't
> post. I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the thickesss
> of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle. Here is a link to a pic
> of what I want. http://handleys.us/roundover.jpg

Pictures are not allowed to be attached in this group, only in binaries
newsgroups.

What you want can be done. You need a bit with the radius of half the board
thickness. You can make the first pass using the bearing, but the second
pass will not be right since the bearing won't have anything to ride
against. Use the fence.

Set the fence even with the front of the bearing. Make one pass, flip the
board and make the second pass. Experiment until you get the perfect setup.

ss

sam

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

06/03/2009 1:07 AM

Pat Barber wrote:
> Here it is in pictures:
>
> http://www.freudtools.com/p-143-rounding-over-bits.aspx
>
>
> sam wrote:
>> Hi!
>> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
>> router table much tho.
>> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch
>> board. The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on
>> a router table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable
>> on the surface in 1/16th of an inch.
>>
>> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half
>> inch with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up
>> the backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the
>> board. I know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>>
>> SOLUTION:
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
>> Paul
Hi!
Thanks for replying! While discussing the effect I wanted on the group,
for some reason, I was thinking I had to pass the wood over the bit on
edge. Thinking about what someone had written, before going to sleep, I
finally realized I had to pass the board against the bit Flat like I do
when I put a decorative edge on a plaque. I followed the advise I was
given, and lo, a perfect roundover on both sides!

Thanks again people, I will be a regular visitor from now on!
Paul

ss

sam

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 7:38 PM

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> "sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi!
>> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
>> router table much tho.
>> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch board.
>> The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a router
>> table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on the surface
>> in 1/16th of an inch.
>>
>> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inch
>> with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
>> backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the board. I
>> know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>>
>> SOLUTION:
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
>> Paul
>
> Using a roundover bit is one of the easiest router chores. First, decide
> what radius you want. The most common are 1/4" and 3/8" but the end use is
> what matters. Is it to just give a smooth edge? Decorative? Functional in
> some way?
>
> I'm assuming you have the router mounted and the bit inserted from the top.
> What you refer to as a backstop I think is what we call a fence. It is not
> needed when using a bearing guided bit, but some have a split fence and can
> be a help with dust collection.
>
> Adjust the router height so the bit barely makes a cut. Now, with a scrap
> of material, make a pass and look at the result. Raise the bit in small
> increments until you get the desired roundover. If you want to take a full
> cut you can line up the bit with the wood looking at the side to get the
> edges in perfect vertical and horizontal alignment.
>
> Keep a steady feed as you make each pass and keep your fingers out of the
> way. Hold the board on the side and not the end where you can get nipped
> after the pass.
>
> If you want to get a few ore bits, www.woodcraft.com and look for the $5
> deal. They are not the best bits on the market, but they are darned good
> for the price. Good bits are Whiteside, Infinity and a few others.
> www.infinitytools.com www.routerbits.com
>
>
Thanks all for responding. I tried to attach a pic but the msg wouldn't
post. I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the
thickesss of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle. Here is a
link to a pic of what I want. http://handleys.us/roundover.jpg

I just thought of another question! The board is five inches thick and I
need to drill a 5/16 hole in it. I have a 6 inch drill but my drill
press will not go down that far, so I can't drill a hole all the way
through it. Is there any other solution other than turning it over,
drill from the other side and hope it meets in the middle?

PB

Pat Barber

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

05/03/2009 7:58 PM

Here it is in pictures:

http://www.freudtools.com/p-143-rounding-over-bits.aspx


sam wrote:
> Hi!
> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
> router table much tho.
> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch board.
> The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a router
> table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on the
> surface in 1/16th of an inch.
>
> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inch
> with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
> backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the board.
> I know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>
> SOLUTION:
>
>
>
> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
> Paul

EP

"Ed Pawlowski"

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 7:08 PM


"sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi!
> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
> router table much tho.
> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch board.
> The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a router
> table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on the surface
> in 1/16th of an inch.
>
> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inch
> with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
> backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the board. I
> know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>
> SOLUTION:
>
>
>
> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
> Paul

Using a roundover bit is one of the easiest router chores. First, decide
what radius you want. The most common are 1/4" and 3/8" but the end use is
what matters. Is it to just give a smooth edge? Decorative? Functional in
some way?

I'm assuming you have the router mounted and the bit inserted from the top.
What you refer to as a backstop I think is what we call a fence. It is not
needed when using a bearing guided bit, but some have a split fence and can
be a help with dust collection.

Adjust the router height so the bit barely makes a cut. Now, with a scrap
of material, make a pass and look at the result. Raise the bit in small
increments until you get the desired roundover. If you want to take a full
cut you can line up the bit with the wood looking at the side to get the
edges in perfect vertical and horizontal alignment.

Keep a steady feed as you make each pass and keep your fingers out of the
way. Hold the board on the side and not the end where you can get nipped
after the pass.

If you want to get a few ore bits, www.woodcraft.com and look for the $5
deal. They are not the best bits on the market, but they are darned good
for the price. Good bits are Whiteside, Infinity and a few others.
www.infinitytools.com www.routerbits.com

ss

sam

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 9:05 PM

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> You can actually get a full half circle bit like this
> http://www.amanatool.com/cncimages/51540.jpg but it might be kind of
> big and expensive and very presnickity to get it to cut just right.
>
> Better to use a roundover bit with a radius 1/2 of the thickness of
> your material. and set the fenc (backstop) so it is in line with the
> bearing.
>
> The most common way of doing a 1/4 radius round over in a table is to
> bring the bit up until it leaves just a fine line on the botton side
> of the board to be sure you are cutting 100% plus a smidge. Then sand
> out the fine line. In your case I would rather mark a center line on
> your board on the 3/4 edge and adjust so you cut just shy of 1/2 way.
> Over cutting will show much more than slightly undercutting from both
> sides and then sanding out to full round.
>
> Regading the drill through, I supose you mean you don't have 6 inches
> of travel in your drill press but do have a 6 inc bit. So drill the
> first 3 inches, then let the bit return up, raise the table and finsih
> the second 2 inches, Of course the main purpose of a drill press is to
> grab wood and spin it into your hands and gut so use a vice or clamp
> setup for tha material.
>
> On Mar 4, 4:38 pm, sam <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> "sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Hi!
>>>> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
>>>> router table much tho.
>>>> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch board.
>>>> The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a router
>>>> table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on the surface
>>>> in 1/16th of an inch.
>>>> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inch
>>>> with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
>>>> backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the board. I
>>>> know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>>>> SOLUTION:
>>>> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
>>>> Paul
>>> Using a roundover bit is one of the easiest router chores. First, decide
>>> what radius you want. The most common are 1/4" and 3/8" but the end use is
>>> what matters. Is it to just give a smooth edge? Decorative? Functional in
>>> some way?
>>> I'm assuming you have the router mounted and the bit inserted from the top.
>>> What you refer to as a backstop I think is what we call a fence. It is not
>>> needed when using a bearing guided bit, but some have a split fence and can
>>> be a help with dust collection.
>>> Adjust the router height so the bit barely makes a cut. Now, with a scrap
>>> of material, make a pass and look at the result. Raise the bit in small
>>> increments until you get the desired roundover. If you want to take a full
>>> cut you can line up the bit with the wood looking at the side to get the
>>> edges in perfect vertical and horizontal alignment.
>>> Keep a steady feed as you make each pass and keep your fingers out of the
>>> way. Hold the board on the side and not the end where you can get nipped
>>> after the pass.
>>> If you want to get a few ore bits,www.woodcraft.comand look for the $5
>>> deal. They are not the best bits on the market, but they are darned good
>>> for the price. Good bits are Whiteside, Infinity and a few others.
>>> www.infinitytools.com www.routerbits.com
>> Thanks all for responding. I tried to attach a pic but the msg wouldn't
>> post. I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the
>> thickesss of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle. Here is a
>> link to a pic of what I want.http://handleys.us/roundover.jpg
>>
>> I just thought of another question! The board is five inches thick and I
>> need to drill a 5/16 hole in it. I have a 6 inch drill but my drill
>> press will not go down that far, so I can't drill a hole all the way
>> through it. Is there any other solution other than turning it over,
>> drill from the other side and hope it meets in the middle?- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>> So drill the
first 3 inches, then let the bit return up, raise the table and finsih
the second 2 inches, Of course the main purpose of a drill press is to
grab wood and spin it into your hands and gut so use a vice or clamp
setup for tha material.

What a clever idea! thanks

Sb

"SonomaProducts.com"

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 4:54 PM

You can actually get a full half circle bit like this
http://www.amanatool.com/cncimages/51540.jpg but it might be kind of
big and expensive and very presnickity to get it to cut just right.

Better to use a roundover bit with a radius 1/2 of the thickness of
your material. and set the fenc (backstop) so it is in line with the
bearing.

The most common way of doing a 1/4 radius round over in a table is to
bring the bit up until it leaves just a fine line on the botton side
of the board to be sure you are cutting 100% plus a smidge. Then sand
out the fine line. In your case I would rather mark a center line on
your board on the 3/4 edge and adjust so you cut just shy of 1/2 way.
Over cutting will show much more than slightly undercutting from both
sides and then sanding out to full round.

Regading the drill through, I supose you mean you don't have 6 inches
of travel in your drill press but do have a 6 inc bit. So drill the
first 3 inches, then let the bit return up, raise the table and finsih
the second 2 inches, Of course the main purpose of a drill press is to
grab wood and spin it into your hands and gut so use a vice or clamp
setup for tha material.

On Mar 4, 4:38=A0pm, sam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > "sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Hi!
> >> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
> >> router table much tho.
> >> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch boar=
d.
> >> The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a route=
r
> >> table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on the sur=
face
> >> in 1/16th of an inch.
>
> >> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inc=
h
> >> with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
> >> backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the boar=
d. I
> >> know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>
> >> SOLUTION:
>
> >> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
> >> Paul
>
> > Using a roundover bit is one of the easiest router chores. =A0First, de=
cide
> > what radius you want. =A0The most common are 1/4" and 3/8" but the end =
use is
> > what matters. =A0Is it to just give a smooth edge? =A0Decorative? Funct=
ional in
> > some way?
>
> > I'm assuming you have the router mounted and the bit inserted from the =
top.
> > What you refer to as a backstop I think is what we call a fence. =A0It =
is not
> > needed when using a bearing guided bit, but some have a split fence and=
can
> > be a help with dust collection.
>
> > Adjust the router height so the bit barely makes a cut. =A0Now, with a =
scrap
> > of material, make a pass and look at the result. =A0Raise the bit in sm=
all
> > increments until you get the desired roundover. =A0If you want to take =
a full
> > cut you can line up the bit with the wood looking at the side to get th=
e
> > edges in perfect vertical and horizontal alignment.
>
> > Keep a steady feed as you make each pass and keep your fingers out of t=
he
> > way. =A0Hold the board on the side and not the end where you can get ni=
pped
> > after the pass.
>
> > If you want to get a few ore bits,www.woodcraft.comand look for the $5
> > deal. =A0They are not =A0the best bits on the market, but they are darn=
ed good
> > for the price. =A0Good bits are Whiteside, Infinity and a few others.
> >www.infinitytools.com=A0www.routerbits.com
>
> Thanks all for responding. I tried to attach a pic but the msg wouldn't
> post. I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the
> thickesss of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle. Here is a
> link to a pic of what I want.http://handleys.us/roundover.jpg
>
> I just thought of another question! The board is five inches thick and I
> =A0 need to drill a 5/16 hole in it. I have a 6 inch drill but my drill
> press will not go down that far, so I can't drill a hole all the way
> through it. Is there any other solution other than turning it over,
> drill from the other side and hope it meets in the middle?- Hide quoted t=
ext -
>
> - Show quoted text -

RC

Robatoy

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 3:45 PM

On Mar 4, 6:35=A0pm, sam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi!
> I'm new to the group but not to woodworking. haven't used a router or
> router table much tho.
> The Problem: I need to round over both sides(edges of a five inch board.
> =A0 The boards actual size is 3/4 inch(1 X 4) I need to do this on a
> router table. My table is a floor model with a backstop adjustable on
> the surface in 1/16th of an inch.
>
> What I need to know: What size roundover will I need(I have a half inch
> with the correct size bearing for roundover). 2. How do I set up the
> backstop. 3. What depth do I set the router? ( in relation to the board.
> I know I have to compensate for the thickness of the table.)
>
> SOLUTION:
>
> Thanks a lot. I hope I included enough data. If not just ask for more!
> Paul

After you round over one side of a 3/4" board with a 1/2" round-over
bit, then the bearing doesn't have a flat spot to ride on for the
flipped, second pass.
I wouldn't use anything bigger than 1/4" roundover.
Move the bit up high enough that the wing of the roundover bit doesn't
rise above the table.

If that sounds confusing, I can make you a sketch.

ss

sam

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

05/03/2009 1:09 AM

CW wrote:
> "sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the
>> thickesss of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle. Here is a link
>> to a pic of what I want. http://handleys.us/roundover.jpg
>>
> You need a 3/8" radius cutter to produce a full round on 3/4" stock.
>
>
Thanks to all who replied, I think I have the solution to both problems now!

Cc

"CW"

in reply to sam on 04/03/2009 6:35 PM

04/03/2009 9:00 PM


"sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I need for the two roundovers to meet in the middle of the
> thickesss of the board with no bead or ridge in the middle. Here is a link
> to a pic of what I want. http://handleys.us/roundover.jpg
>
You need a 3/8" radius cutter to produce a full round on 3/4" stock.


You’ve reached the end of replies