Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
this UHMW will it dull the blade.
Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
Paul T.
--
The only dumb question, is the one not asked
"PHT" <[email protected]> wrote
> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
On these pages some years ago, I read an account from somebody who intended
to make a zero clearance inset by feeding the running saw upwards into the
plate.
He crouched down to watch what was happening, his face directly in line with
the blade.
As the blade bit into the plate it was ejected into his face.
Worth knowing about? Presumably this was a loose-fitting plate or he had not
troubled to fix it down.
Jeff
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
On Fri, 23 Jan 2009 08:41:52 -0000, "Jeff Gorman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"PHT" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
>> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
>> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
>> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
>> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
>On these pages some years ago, I read an account from somebody who intended
>to make a zero clearance inset by feeding the running saw upwards into the
>plate.
>
>He crouched down to watch what was happening, his face directly in line with
>the blade.
I don't put any body part in line with the blade, including the family
jewels.
>
>As the blade bit into the plate it was ejected into his face.
>
It's easy to move the fence a half inch or so over the plate to hold
it in place. So many accidents from not thinking about what you are
doing.
>Worth knowing about? Presumably this was a loose-fitting plate or he had not
>troubled to fix it down.
>
>Jeff
On Jan 23, 9:20=A0am, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > "PHT" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> >> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHM=
W.
> >> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade throu=
gh
> >> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> >> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> >> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> > On these pages some years ago, I read an account from somebody who
> > intended to make a zero clearance inset by feeding the running saw upwa=
rds
> > into the plate.
>
> > He crouched down to watch what was happening, his face directly in line
> > with the blade.
>
> > As the blade bit into the plate it was ejected into his face.
>
> > Worth knowing about? Presumably this was a loose-fitting plate or he ha=
d
> > not troubled to fix it down.
>
> Well. Duh! Clamp the fence a small, non-zero distance away to hold it dow=
n.
> Store bought plates have a pin at the rear to help keep the rear from
> rising, but a solid hold-down is still called for.
One little point;
If you're going to be trying to resaw a 4" wide piece (cutting it to
1/2 of the thickness instead of trying to make 2-2" wide pieces),
you'll want a more specialized blade.
UHMW tends to warp if you use a standard rip blade and you'll think
the stuff is possessed when you try it.
For thick pieces, I use a rip blade with the widest chip-clearance
that I can find and one that has square chip-clearing teeth.
A couple of years ago, I made an interactive Help Center for UHMW on
Google Groups;
http://groups.google.com/group/uhmwtips
There are a few pointers on there for various things you can do to it
- if I ever get some time, I'm going to add to it. If you have a
special question, you can post it and I'll get a copy of it.
In my experience, a 2" wide fence works very well - my rip fence is
actually on 3/4" high and I've never had a problem with it.
On Jan 23, 11:45=A0am, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 23 Jan 2009 04:33:52 GMT, PHT <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> >I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> >this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> >Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> >sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> >Paul T.
>
> Well, as soon as you use the blade for plastic or wood, obviously it
> won't be as sharp as before the cut. =A0 Plastics won't dull a blade all
> that much, especially for one or two inserts. =A0I never understood why
> folks buy inserts--they are very easy to make from a piece of
> cabinet-grade ply scrap and work just as good, maybe better because
> the wooden ones can be shaped for a perfect snug fit.
Mine are solid surface (Corian) Why? Because I have a bunch of it and
it is 1/2" thick. Different colours too!! Yippee.
PHT wrote:
> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
It's probably the "friendliest" stuff that blade will ever cut.
> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
The blade will dull slightly with every cut no matter what, but you'll
never notice it with UHMWPE.
Have fun chasing the sawdust. :-)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
-MIKE- wrote:
> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can rapidly
> dull tool cutting edges,..."
That's just plain amazing! You wouldn't believe how much of that stuff
I've cut with my TS and BS without any noticeable effect on the blades.
Of course, we might need to take into account that on the TS I cut with
an Olson 10x100 carbide-tipped blade ($50 from Menards). :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
-MIKE- wrote:
>>> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
>>> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can rapidly
>>> dull tool cutting edges,..."
>>
>> That's just plain amazing! You wouldn't believe how much of that stuff
>> I've cut with my TS and BS without any noticeable effect on the blades.
>>
>> Of course, we might need to take into account that on the TS I cut
>> with an Olson 10x100 carbide-tipped blade ($50 from Menards). :)
Oops. I bought that blade on sale for $14.95 (six years ago) - and when
I looked for a current price, I discovered that Olson no longer makes
circular saw blades. :(
> I'm right with you.
> But I've always heard and read that from people in the plastics industry.
Could be so. I suspect that "large volume" for my shop doesn't amount to
much for a major production facility.
> One man's dull is another man's sharp.
That's always true. I'm easy to please - I'm generally happy if I can
cut cherry and hard maple without burn or fuzz.
> Try talking to a machinist about "flat" or an "exact measurement."
> They consider woodworkers to be riding the short bus. :-)
The metalworking types even play this game with each other - but I did
design and build my own CNC router so I could cut joints with finer
precision than my neighbor can manage with his (manual) Bridgeport. :->
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Fri, 23 Jan 2009 12:15:50 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Robatoy wrote:
>> On Jan 23, 9:00 am, surplusdealdude <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Secondly, it does NOT dull a blade to any noticeable effect - I do
>>> about 250,000 cuts a year and I replace my blade every 1-2 years just
>>> on general principle - it still feels fairly sharp when I do it.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>
>> There you go. Thread is over.
>
>Hitler.
I wonder how many early adopters are left who will get that. Cracked
me up, though.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
On Jan 22, 11:33=A0pm, PHT <[email protected]> wrote:
> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> Paul T.
>
> --
> The only dumb question, is the one not asked
Hi, Paul,
I sell UHMW and have cut it for more than 10 years.
First of all, you should be using a carbide blade for it.
Secondly, it does NOT dull a blade to any noticeable effect - I do
about 250,000 cuts a year and I replace my blade every 1-2 years just
on general principle - it still feels fairly sharp when I do it.
Eric
"PHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> Paul T.
>
> --
> The only dumb question, is the one not asked
It will have to be sharpened sooner no matter what you cut. How many
thousand are you cutting to be worried?
On Jan 22, 11:33=A0pm, PHT <[email protected]> wrote:
> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> Paul T.
>
> --
> The only dumb question, is the one not asked
That stuff is like butter to a blade. No abrasive aspect to it at all,
in fact, the opposite is true, it's pretty slippery.
You might want to go through in steps, so you won't over-heat the
waste-chips. It is a blind cut initially.
On Jan 23, 6:27=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 23, 9:20=A0am, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > > "PHT" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> > >> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of U=
HMW.
> > >> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade thr=
ough
> > >> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> > >> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> > >> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> > > On these pages some years ago, I read an account from somebody who
> > > intended to make a zero clearance inset by feeding the running saw up=
wards
> > > into the plate.
>
> > > He crouched down to watch what was happening, his face directly in li=
ne
> > > with the blade.
>
> > > As the blade bit into the plate it was ejected into his face.
>
> > > Worth knowing about? Presumably this was a loose-fitting plate or he =
had
> > > not troubled to fix it down.
>
> > Well. Duh! Clamp the fence a small, non-zero distance away to hold it d=
own.
> > Store bought plates have a pin at the rear to help keep the rear from
> > rising, but a solid hold-down is still called for.
>
> I just put my fence over it..about 1/2" away from the edge of the
> blade.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's how I cut mine. The fence is the perfect "hold down" and
probably the safest. Just allow your TS to develop full RPM's and
raise the blade s-l-o-w-l-y and you will have a perfect zero clearance
plate. Just be sure that you raise the blade to the highest possible
position. Don't need any surprises later on. :-)
Minwax Mac (aka Jums)
On Jan 23, 9:00=A0am, surplusdealdude <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 22, 11:33=A0pm, PHT <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW=
.
> > I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade throug=
h
> > this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> > Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> > sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> > Paul T.
>
> > --
> > The only dumb question, is the one not asked
>
> Hi, Paul,
>
> I sell UHMW and have cut it for more than 10 years.
>
> First of all, you should be using a carbide blade for it.
>
> Secondly, it does NOT dull a blade to any noticeable effect - I do
> about 250,000 cuts a year and I replace my blade every 1-2 years just
> on general principle - it still feels fairly sharp when I do it.
>
> Eric
There you go. Thread is over.
On Jan 23, 9:20=A0am, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > "PHT" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> >> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHM=
W.
> >> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade throu=
gh
> >> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> >> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> >> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> > On these pages some years ago, I read an account from somebody who
> > intended to make a zero clearance inset by feeding the running saw upwa=
rds
> > into the plate.
>
> > He crouched down to watch what was happening, his face directly in line
> > with the blade.
>
> > As the blade bit into the plate it was ejected into his face.
>
> > Worth knowing about? Presumably this was a loose-fitting plate or he ha=
d
> > not troubled to fix it down.
>
> Well. Duh! Clamp the fence a small, non-zero distance away to hold it dow=
n.
> Store bought plates have a pin at the rear to help keep the rear from
> rising, but a solid hold-down is still called for.
I just put my fence over it..about 1/2" away from the edge of the
blade.
On Jan 23, 12:09=A0am, Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
> > =A0Fromhttp://www.plasticsintl.com
> > "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can rapidly
> > dull tool cutting edges,..."
>
> That's just plain amazing! You wouldn't believe how much of that stuff
> I've cut with my TS and BS without any noticeable effect on the blades.
>
> Of course, we might need to take into account that on the TS I cut with
> an Olson 10x100 carbide-tipped blade ($50 from Menards). :)
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
The carbide is the key here.
If you cut with a regular steel saw, yes, you'll run into problems
almost right away.
Use carbide, and the blade lasts forever.
"Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "PHT" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
>> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
>> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
>> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
>> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> On these pages some years ago, I read an account from somebody who
> intended to make a zero clearance inset by feeding the running saw upwards
> into the plate.
>
> He crouched down to watch what was happening, his face directly in line
> with the blade.
>
> As the blade bit into the plate it was ejected into his face.
>
> Worth knowing about? Presumably this was a loose-fitting plate or he had
> not troubled to fix it down.
Well. Duh! Clamp the fence a small, non-zero distance away to hold it down.
Store bought plates have a pin at the rear to help keep the rear from
rising, but a solid hold-down is still called for.
PHT wrote:
> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> Paul T.
>
I don't think you have to worry about it in the time it takes to run the
blade up through it, one time. Maybe you could use a cheaper blade
(assuming it's thinner or equal) to make the majority of the cut, then
finish it with the WWII.
Maybe a call or email to Forrest would help.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
>> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
>> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
>
> It's probably the "friendliest" stuff that blade will ever cut.
>
>> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
>> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
> The blade will dull slightly with every cut no matter what, but you'll
> never notice it with UHMWPE.
>
> Have fun chasing the sawdust. :-)
>
Just FYI...
From http://www.plasticsintl.com
"Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can rapidly
dull tool cutting edges,..."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
>>> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of
>>> UHMW. I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the
>>> blade through this UHMW will it dull the blade.
>>
>> It's probably the "friendliest" stuff that blade will ever cut.
>>
>>> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be
>>> sharpened
>>> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>>
>> The blade will dull slightly with every cut no matter what, but
>> you'll never notice it with UHMWPE.
>>
>> Have fun chasing the sawdust. :-)
>>
>
> Just FYI...
> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can
> rapidly
> dull tool cutting edges,..."
If that is on the site you linked, please provide the navigation
because you link gets to a home page with no obvious link and
searching the site on "dull tool cutting" doesn't find a hit.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
J. Clarke wrote:
>> Just FYI...
>> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
>> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can
>> rapidly
>> dull tool cutting edges,..."
>
> If that is on the site you linked, please provide the navigation
> because you link gets to a home page with no obvious link and
> searching the site on "dull tool cutting" doesn't find a hit.
Discover google. :-)
It's from a pdf on their site, but I just googled the sentence I copied
and this popped up...
http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp?fIssue=Sep/Oct-03&aid=3862
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
>> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can rapidly
>> dull tool cutting edges,..."
>
> That's just plain amazing! You wouldn't believe how much of that stuff
> I've cut with my TS and BS without any noticeable effect on the blades.
>
> Of course, we might need to take into account that on the TS I cut with
> an Olson 10x100 carbide-tipped blade ($50 from Menards). :)
>
I'm right with you.
But I've always heard and read that from people in the plastics industry.
One man's dull is another man's sharp.
Try talking to a machinist about "flat" or an "exact measurement."
They consider woodworkers to be riding the short bus. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
>> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can rapidly
>> dull tool cutting edges,..."
>
> That's just plain amazing! You wouldn't believe how much of that stuff
> I've cut with my TS and BS without any noticeable effect on the blades.
>
I've done some turning with TS and UHMW PE. And it will dull tool
steel....for UHMW. Would still work great on steel. But UHMW takes a SHARP
edge to work well, and lots of relief. Carbide is NOT a choice to cut UHMW,
'cept occasional use on a TS. Carbide will not grind to as sharp an edge as
TS will, and the grind angles of a TS is for wood, not UHMW. Have no fear,
your blade will not even feel the cut on the zero clearance plate.
-MIKE- wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>>> Just FYI...
>>> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
>>> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can
>>> rapidly
>>> dull tool cutting edges,..."
>>
>> If that is on the site you linked, please provide the navigation
>> because you link gets to a home page with no obvious link and
>> searching the site on "dull tool cutting" doesn't find a hit.
>
> Discover google. :-)
>
> It's from a pdf on their site, but I just googled the sentence I
> copied and this popped up...
>
> http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp?fIssue=Sep/Oct-03&aid=3862
Different site.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Morris Dovey wrote:
...
>>> with an Olson 10x100 carbide-tipped blade ($50 from Menards). :)
>
> Oops. I bought that blade on sale for $14.95 (six years ago) - and when
> I looked for a current price, I discovered that Olson no longer makes
> circular saw blades. :(
...
Well that _IS_ a bummer -- wonder why they dropped them out?
I suppose the proliferation of others made the niche less profitable but
I surely thought they had great value. I'm not doing enough now to buy
many new blades but surely glad to have those I do if they're no longer
available...
--
J. Clarke wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> J. Clarke wrote:
>>>> Just FYI...
>>>> From http://www.plasticsintl.com
>>>> "Care should be taken to keep tools sharp because UHMW-PE can
>>>> rapidly
>>>> dull tool cutting edges,..."
>>> If that is on the site you linked, please provide the navigation
>>> because you link gets to a home page with no obvious link and
>>> searching the site on "dull tool cutting" doesn't find a hit.
>> Discover google. :-)
>>
>> It's from a pdf on their site, but I just googled the sentence I
>> copied and this popped up...
>>
>> http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp?fIssue=Sep/Oct-03&aid=3862
>
> Different site.
>
Same info, however.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Robatoy wrote:
> On Jan 23, 9:00 am, surplusdealdude <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Jan 22, 11:33 pm, PHT <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
>>> I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
>>> this UHMW will it dull the blade.
>>> Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
>>> sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>>> Paul T.
>>> --
>>> The only dumb question, is the one not asked
>> Hi, Paul,
>>
>> I sell UHMW and have cut it for more than 10 years.
>>
>> First of all, you should be using a carbide blade for it.
>>
>> Secondly, it does NOT dull a blade to any noticeable effect - I do
>> about 250,000 cuts a year and I replace my blade every 1-2 years just
>> on general principle - it still feels fairly sharp when I do it.
>>
>> Eric
>
> There you go. Thread is over.
Hitler.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
B A R R Y wrote:
> surplusdealdude wrote:
>> Secondly, it does NOT dull a blade to any noticeable effect - I do
>> about 250,000 cuts a year and I replace my blade every 1-2 years just
>> on general principle - it still feels fairly sharp when I do it.
>
> Thanks for posting actual professional experience!
Too many things wrong with your statement to even start.
So I'll go to his....
Is he making 250k cuts on plastic, only. If that's the case, no wonder
he doesn't notice any dulling.
Is he going back and forth between plastic and hardwood and still not
noticing? That would say something.
Which is it?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Fri, 23 Jan 2009 04:33:52 GMT, PHT <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Got some insert blanks for the new table saw. They are made out of UHMW.
>I have a WWII blade and I'm wondering how much running the blade through
>this UHMW will it dull the blade.
>Don't want to do it if it means the blade will have to be sharpened
>sooner. I just got this blade a couple of weeks ago.
>
>Paul T.
Well, as soon as you use the blade for plastic or wood, obviously it
won't be as sharp as before the cut. Plastics won't dull a blade all
that much, especially for one or two inserts. I never understood why
folks buy inserts--they are very easy to make from a piece of
cabinet-grade ply scrap and work just as good, maybe better because
the wooden ones can be shaped for a perfect snug fit.
"surplusdealdude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
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On Jan 22, 11:33 pm, PHT <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi, Paul,
I sell UHMW and have cut it for more than 10 years.
First of all, you should be using a carbide blade for it.
Secondly, it does NOT dull a blade to any noticeable effect - I do
about 250,000 cuts a year and I replace my blade every 1-2 years just
on general principle - it still feels fairly sharp when I do it.
Eric
May be you forgot to mention, maybe you were not aware, a decent carbide
blade can be reshrpened. Your statement about the blade still feeling
fairly sharp when you replace it makes me think that you don't have blades
resharpened.