Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building a
countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's the
normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
something that can withstand that.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
On Sep 7, 10:17=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Just a quick question. =A0I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building =
a
> countertop for. =A0The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. =A0What's th=
e
> normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>
> The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> something that can withstand that.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Do the cabinets have rails across the top?
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sep 7, 10:28 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sep 7, 10:17 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>> > Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>> > buildin
> g a
>> > countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's
> the
>> > normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>>
>> > The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
>> > something that can withstand that.
>>
>> > Puckdropper
>> > --
>> > Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>>
>> Do the cabinets have rails across the top?
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Insidebackdetail.jpg
They do, but are offset from the top about 3/4".
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>> building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood.
>> What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the
>> cabinet?
>
> The "normal procedure" is screws, up through stretchers fastened
> between the end panels for just that purpose.
> >
> > The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> > something that can withstand that.
>
> With that thin of a counter top to screw into you, and in addition to
> strategically places screws as above, you will probably want to
> consider using multiple brackets attached to the interior sides of the
> case work if you can.
>
I was wondering if I needed to run something across to add a bit more
strength. I've got the space underneath for a couple brackets.
Thanks to everyone for the responses!
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Somebody wrote:
> Since you're installing a 5/8" top instead of a more conventional
> 3/4" thickness be careful to select a screw length which will not
> pierce your top. It's the type of error you make one time only.
----------------------------------
Let me ask the stupid question.
Why not make some 2"x2"x1/2" plywood blocks, then epoxy them to the
top forming 2"x2"x1" thick pads at each fastener penetration?
Seems simple enough.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4c881b0c$0$9872
[email protected]:
> Let me ask the stupid question.
>
> Why not make some 2"x2"x1/2" plywood blocks, then epoxy them to the
> top forming 2"x2"x1" thick pads at each fastener penetration?
>
> Seems simple enough.
>
> Lew
>
>
I may yet wind up doing something similar, as it'll give me a little
extra stability. (5/8" is a bit thin, but this was a scrap box clearing
project.) Glue* a couple cross braces across the width, screw to that,
and call it done. Sounds good to me.
*I've a bunch of Titebond II and absolutely no epoxy.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>> On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>>> building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood.
>>> What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the
>>> cabinet?
A bit of overkill perhaps but attaching the countertop should be a cinch.
http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/EndCabinet#
Max
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9/9/10 1:56 PM, Max wrote:
>>>> On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>>>>> building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood.
>>>>> What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the
>>>>> cabinet?
>>
>> A bit of overkill perhaps but attaching the countertop should be a cinch.
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/EndCabinet#
>>
>> Max
>>
>
> Impressive corner joint on that plywood.
>
>
> -MIKE-
Thanks. Biscuits and luck. :-)
Max
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9/9/10 5:45 PM, Max wrote:
>> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On 9/9/10 1:56 PM, Max wrote:
>>>>>> On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>>>>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>>>>>>> building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood.
>>>>>>> What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the
>>>>>>> cabinet?
>>>>
>>>> A bit of overkill perhaps but attaching the countertop should be a
>>>> cinch.
>>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/EndCabinet#
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>>
>>>
>>> Impressive corner joint on that plywood.
>>>
>>>
>>> -MIKE-
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks. Biscuits and luck. :-)
>>
>> Max
>
> I saw the biscuits comment in the other post. That certainly helps with
> alignment on corners... but everything else has to be done very
> accurately, too, especially the cut.
>
> Like Tiger Woods said, "The more I practice, the luckier I get."
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
Actually I screwed up the first attempt. I set the angle on the table saw
using the scale on the saw.
After wasting some good oak plywood I realized that I needed something to
get a more precise angle.
I bought one of these and it *works*. :-)
http://tinyurl.com/33sv4tc
Max
On Sep 8, 11:03=A0am, GROVER <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 7, 10:17=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
> > Just a quick question. =A0I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm buildin=
g a
> > countertop for. =A0The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. =A0What's =
the
> > normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>
> > The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> > something that can withstand that.
>
> > Puckdropper
> > --
> > Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>
> Since you're installing =A0a 5/8" top instead of a more conventional
> 3/4" thickness be careful to select a screw length which will not
> pierce your top. It's the type of error you make one time only.
>
> Joe G
And when you're on your back inside a cabinet and you ask your helper
to hand you a 1-1/4" screw....check it. If he hands you a 1-1/2"
screw, you could have a problem.... or so I'm told.
A pan head with the built-in washer is the way to go, imho.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building a
> countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's the
> normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>
> The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> something that can withstand that.
>
Any way which will allow a little movement, including but not limited to:
Screws in slotted brackets
Screws in bendy brackets
Screws with washers under the heads through oversized holes
Wooden blocks which hook into a slot in the cabinet
Silicone sealant (not sure I would recommend that one but have seen it done)
You actually only need to allow movement on one edge so you can fix the
other edge down hard it f you wish.
Tim W
On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building a
> countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's the
> normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
The "normal procedure" is screws, up through stretchers fastened between
the end panels for just that purpose.
>
> The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> something that can withstand that.
With that thin of a counter top to screw into you, and in addition to
strategically places screws as above, you will probably want to consider
using multiple brackets attached to the interior sides of the case work
if you can.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Sep 7, 10:17=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Just a quick question. =A0I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building =
a
> countertop for. =A0The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. =A0What's th=
e
> normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>
> The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> something that can withstand that.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Since you're installing a 5/8" top instead of a more conventional
3/4" thickness be careful to select a screw length which will not
pierce your top. It's the type of error you make one time only.
Joe G
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Can be finish nailed in, with glue or not, or in some extreme cases and
> where the cabinet sides are visible, with pocket hole screws. Make them a
> bit narrower and you'll have more room for more brackets.
And, as a last resort
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=50310&cat=3,41306,41312&ap=1
On Sep 7, 10:28=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 7, 10:17=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
> > Just a quick question. =A0I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm buildin=
g a
> > countertop for. =A0The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. =A0What's =
the
> > normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>
> > The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
> > something that can withstand that.
>
> > Puckdropper
> > --
> > Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>
> Do the cabinets have rails across the top?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Insidebackdetail.jpg
On 9/8/2010 2:51 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> I was wondering if I needed to run something across to add a bit more
> strength. I've got the space underneath for a couple brackets.
Pretty much the same thing Rob posted, which is "normal procedure" used
to attach counter tops/substrate to base cabinets (they also add some
often desirable rigidity to the casework if there is no substrate needed
under the counter top material):
http://www.e-woodshop.net/files/BaseCabStretchers.pdf
Can be finish nailed in, with glue or not, or in some extreme cases and
where the cabinet sides are visible, with pocket hole screws. Make them
a bit narrower and you'll have more room for more brackets.
("stretchers" may just be a regional thing ...)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 9/7/10 11:21 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Robatoy<[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Sep 7, 10:28 pm, Robatoy<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Sep 7, 10:17 pm, Puckdropper<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>>>> buildin
>> g a
>>>> countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's
>> the
>>>> normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>>>
>>>> The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
>>>> something that can withstand that.
>>>
>>>> Puckdropper
>>>> --
>>>> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>>>
>>> Do the cabinets have rails across the top?
>>
>> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Insidebackdetail.jpg
>
> They do, but are offset from the top about 3/4".
>
> Puckdropper
Shims and screws through the rails.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/8/10 5:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> And when you're on your back inside a cabinet and you ask your helper
> to hand you a 1-1/4" screw....check it. If he hands you a 1-1/2"
> screw, you could have a problem.... or so I'm told.
> A pan head with the built-in washer is the way to go, imho.
Agreed. It's worth it to have these around, simply because they won't
countersink themselves. You know without a doubt that a 1-1/4" pan head
will only go that far into the material. With a bugle head, you slip
and go too far... oops, there's the tip coming through the top of the
counter.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/8/2010 6:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 9/8/10 5:35 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> And when you're on your back inside a cabinet and you ask your helper
>> to hand you a 1-1/4" screw....check it. If he hands you a 1-1/2"
>> screw, you could have a problem.... or so I'm told.
>> A pan head with the built-in washer is the way to go, imho.
>
> Agreed. It's worth it to have these around, simply because they won't
> countersink themselves. You know without a doubt that a 1-1/4" pan head
> will only go that far into the material. With a bugle head, you slip and
> go too far... oops, there's the tip coming through the top of the counter.
That depends on what material you are screwing it into and what tool
you're using to drive it. If I don't pay attention to what I'm doing my
impact driver will happily sink a McFeelys #8 washer head screw a
quarter inch deep in poplar.
On 9/9/10 1:56 PM, Max wrote:
>>> On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>>>> building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood.
>>>> What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the
>>>> cabinet?
>
> A bit of overkill perhaps but attaching the countertop should be a cinch.
> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/EndCabinet#
>
> Max
>
Impressive corner joint on that plywood.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/9/10 5:45 PM, Max wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 9/9/10 1:56 PM, Max wrote:
>>>>> On 9/7/2010 9:17 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>>>> Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm
>>>>>> building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood.
>>>>>> What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the
>>>>>> cabinet?
>>>
>>> A bit of overkill perhaps but attaching the countertop should be a
>>> cinch.
>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/EndCabinet#
>>>
>>> Max
>>>
>>
>> Impressive corner joint on that plywood.
>>
>>
>> -MIKE-
>
>
>
> Thanks. Biscuits and luck. :-)
>
> Max
I saw the biscuits comment in the other post. That certainly helps with
alignment on corners... but everything else has to be done very
accurately, too, especially the cut.
Like Tiger Woods said, "The more I practice, the luckier I get."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/9/10 7:14 PM, Max wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>
> Actually I screwed up the first attempt. I set the angle on the table
> saw using the scale on the saw.
> After wasting some good oak plywood I realized that I needed something
> to get a more precise angle.
> I bought one of these and it *works*. :-)
> http://tinyurl.com/33sv4tc
>
> Max
I have the iGauge one and love it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:35:45 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sep 8, 11:03 am, GROVER <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sep 7, 10:17 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>> > Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building a
>> > countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's the
>> > normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
>>
>> > The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need
>> > something that can withstand that.
>>
>> > Puckdropper
>> > --
>> > Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>>
>> Since you're installing a 5/8" top instead of a more conventional
>> 3/4" thickness be careful to select a screw length which will not
>> pierce your top. It's the type of error you make one time only.
>>
>> Joe G
>
>And when you're on your back inside a cabinet and you ask your helper
>to hand you a 1-1/4" screw....check it. If he hands you a 1-1/2"
>screw, you could have a problem.... or so I'm told.
>A pan head with the built-in washer is the way to go, imho.
Did you do a free bit of inlay to cover up your screwup, Toy?
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson