Re: CPOworkshop.com Experience

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>
>> You are so distracted Bill. Focus! Keep your eye on all of the
>> requirements of this project. You're so focused on this base, and
>> overcomplicating something that could have been knocked together in
>> an hour, that you've completely forgotten the critical components.
>
> I want it to look like it was completed in a workmanlike manner. This
> is not so easy as it might at first appear for someone who hasn't
> finished his workman apprenticeship....
>
> One this is pretty sure: after I assemble a 260 pound DP on top of my
> baseboard, it's unlikely to be swapped out anytime soon.
>
> Something I've learned to do is to learn and shop while it's dark or
> cold outside, so I'll be able to make the most out of the time when
> it's not! Mike, I'll never challenge your status around here--I'm
> just a wannabe doing the best I can. The DP baseboard design that has
> been proposed, which meets my formaldehyde-free requirements, far
> exceeds my original expectations. I may not be able to drive any
> kind of car I want, but I can have this DP baseboard--it's got some
> nice bells and whistles! With proper maintenance, it's motor oil
> finish will probably still be glistening long after you trade in your
> new car.

You should feel very comfortable challenging my status around here Bill.
It's not really very much anyway - just one of the guys. I'm just happy to
see that you accept my profound wisdom when it comes to the art of finishing
wood...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

I baught a DP that fell over & broke the table off for $5.00 at a flea
market. Went to recycle yard with aluminum cans & spotted a 2' x 3'
peice of steel 1 1/4 " thick. Bolted that sucker down & it aint ever
gonna tip over again !! Was gonna bolt it down but no need to.

Jr


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/MyWoodWorkingPage

Lee Michaels wrote:

>>
> I HAVE seen them tip over. And have heard some stories. One time
> when they are prone to tip over is whenmoving them.
>

I can see where moving them would be problematic. Sorry - had tunnel vision
and didn't think of that.

>
> It probably depends on what you do with them. I place lots of stress
> on any drill press I use. I have seen enough problems to make me
> believe this is an issue and should be addressed.
>

Mine certainly gets a work out - it's one of my more frequently used tools.
But... mine is stationary and the bigger problem with mine is that damned
flat surface it has...


--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:

> As far as "seating the chuck (and taper spindle)"--does it just
> require a gentle tap with a twobyfour and a hammer, or something
> more?

1. Clean the spindle.

2. Insert spindle & chuck

3. Crank down onto piece of wood on table with moderate force
_____________

> I realize it would be quite dangerous if these parts broke
> loose.

Dangerous? All that would happen is that they would drop out.

BTW, don't try to use auger bits with it, they will pull out the spindle.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

chaniarts wrote:

> i would have looked inside whilst the truck was still there. i had a
> compressor delivered that was pre-broken, even though the outside
> gave no
> indication of that. i refused delivery and a new undamaged one came
> about 3
> weeks later.
----------------------------
Last time I checked, you have 7 days to report concealed damage to a
common carrier.

Lew

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
> past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.
>
> I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0
> emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound DP
> (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application
> calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as opposed to a
> residential counter top).
>
> When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he
> didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her DP.
> So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.
>
> Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
> 24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is suggested
> by the manual.
>
It quote an old cliché, it is hard to get good help these days. If
anything, the suggestion for the base board size is too small.

As some one who has done extensive drill press work, both in metal and wood,
I can assure that some type of base extension for the drill press is both
necessary and prudent. Drill presses, by their construction, are top heavy.
It takes very little to tip one over. And when they go over, they often are
damaged beyond repair. They also have the potential to cause somebody some
real injury.

For folks who do serious work, they often have more substantial platforms
than just plywood. I have seen big slabs of metal and plywood and 2 X 4
bases. I have also seen a drill press secured to the wall..

If you are drill long stock that is clamped to the table, you have a big
lever than can tip the drill press over. Even if supported on the ends,
sometimes something can happen to those supports.

You paid good money for this machine. You don't want anything to happen to
it. You want to operate it in a safe fashion., It is prudent, safe and
intelligent to make this machine stable.

Bill wrote:
> I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
> past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.
>
> I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or
> e-0 emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280
> pound DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this
> application calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as
> opposed to a residential counter top).
>
> When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he
> didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her
> DP. So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.
>
> Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
> 24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is
> suggested by the manual.
>
> Please advise, if you would be so kind.

I used some 2x4s. Four pieces, IIRC...2 attached to the base, 2 hinged to
those with wheels so I can move it where I want it. A couple of wooden
(ply) cams raise it onto the wheels and set it back down so it won't roll.
Works fine



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lee Michaels wrote:
> ...
>
>
>> You paid good money for this machine. You don't want anything to happen
>> to it. You want to operate it in a safe fashion., It is prudent, safe
>> and intelligent to make this machine stable.
>
> Lee, Your points are well taken. I DO intended to drill mortises on long
> boards (and the potential concerns were already going through my head.
> Your post provides the confirmation I needed to resolve this matter in an
> appropriate way.
>
> Making a base board out of 2by4s, as dadiOH suggested, seems the most
> practical setup to me. The DP has 18" x 23" base, and a (minimum)
> 24" x 29" baseboard (3" overhang) was recommended in owner's manual.
>
>
> Please consider the following design: 30" by 33" (6" overhang), 3 1/2"
> high.
>
> Formed by twenty 33" 2by4s bound together only with 4 or 5 half-inch
> diameter 29.5" threaded steel rods (using countersunk bolts).
>
> This is hardly cast in stone. I appreciate the feedback I get from you
> folks who know what you are doing!
>
> Glue necessary? Shrinkage concerns? Additional threaded rods?
> The manual suggested attached DP base to baseboard with M8x 1.25 x125mm
> carriage bolts. Obviously, the baseboard above will require much longer
> bolts. Realizing that the 4 bolts holding the DP to the baseboard are an
> important factor, will the extra width introduce a new new safety concern?
>
If you are going to use 2 X 4's, you don't have to make a bench top to mount
the drill press on. Just layout a big rectangle with the 2 X stock laying
flat. Then take a circular saw and cut some lap joints. Use some
construction adhesive and screws or nails. Make up a big platform that is
an inch and a half thick. If you need to cover it, just use some low cost
pine. That way you don't have to use the chemical laden plywood. Remember,
it is just a platform to mount your tool on. It is not some piece of
furniture. I have seen and built a basic little stand underneath the drill
press on the platform. You can store a few things there, drills, etc.

I have built a number of these platforms and like the ones that are big
enough to stand on. Your bodyweight just adds to the stability of the
machine while you are working.

I would also use a stronger bolt than a carriage bolt. Most carriage bolts
these days are cheap junk. Get something that is hardened and countersink
the heads.

>
> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that would
> work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to move it
> around easily would definitely be nice!
>
As long as you don't have to move it far, having a wood surface on top of
cement, you can drag it to where you want. If you have to move it far, use
wheels. I worry about wheels on something like this. Drill presses are top
heavy and it is easy for it to get away from you when you are tipping it. I
don't want to add wheels to that equation.

Bill wrote:
> Lee Michaels wrote:
> ...
>
>
>> You paid good money for this machine. You don't want anything to
>> happen to it. You want to operate it in a safe fashion., It is
>> prudent, safe and intelligent to make this machine stable.
>
> Lee, Your points are well taken. I DO intended to drill mortises on
> long boards (and the potential concerns were already going through my
> head. Your post provides the confirmation I needed to resolve this
> matter in an appropriate way.
>
> Making a base board out of 2by4s, as dadiOH suggested, seems the most
> practical setup to me. The DP has 18" x 23" base, and a (minimum)
> 24" x 29" baseboard (3" overhang) was recommended in owner's manual.
>
>
> Please consider the following design: 30" by 33" (6" overhang), 3
> 1/2" high.
> Formed by twenty 33" 2by4s bound together only with 4 or 5 half-inch
> diameter 29.5" threaded steel rods (using countersunk bolts).
>
> This is hardly cast in stone. I appreciate the feedback I get from
> you folks who know what you are doing!
>
> Glue necessary? Shrinkage concerns? Additional threaded rods?
> The manual suggested attached DP base to baseboard with M8x 1.25
> x125mm carriage bolts. Obviously, the baseboard above will require
> much longer bolts. Realizing that the 4 bolts holding the DP to the
> baseboard are an important factor, will the extra width introduce a new
> new safety
> concern?
>
>
> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
> move it around easily would definitely be nice!

Since you liked my 2x4 base idea, I got up from my sick bed, walked out to
my shop and looked to see exactly what I had done.

I didn't use 2x4s. What I did...

1. Two pieces of appropriately sized 3/4 ply fastened together.

2. Caster in each corner.

3. There are two pieces of 2x4 hinged on edge to the underside of the ply.
When they *are* on edge, the casters are not touching the floor; when the
pieces are in the "up" (not on edge) position, they are held that way by a
couple of cabinet catches; they are moved from up to down by two 3/4"
plywood handles attached to the 2x4s. The purpose of all this was to
provide stability whenever I needed to exert great lateral force with the
machine. That has never happened. IOW, a waste of time.

4. The DP is bolted to the ply base.
______________

Regarding your plan, there is nothing wrong with it and I'm reasonably sure
it would outlast the pyramids but I think it may be a tad more than is
really needed.

Regardless of what you wind up doing, I don't think you want a solid flat
base sitting on the floor...floors aren't necessarily flat...wood chips get
on the floor...wood chips keep stuff from sitting flat. Et cetera.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote:
.
>
> Regardless of what you wind up doing, I don't think you want a solid
> flat base sitting on the floor...floors aren't necessarily
> flat...wood chips get on the floor...wood chips keep stuff from
> sitting flat. Et cetera.
---------------------------------------
That's why 1/2-13 T-Nuts and carriage bolts exist.

Lew

Bill wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>
>> Since you liked my 2x4 base idea, I got up from my sick bed, walked
>> out to my shop and looked to see exactly what I had done.
>
> Aww.. don't do that again. Your post was interesting to read though.
> Guided by Lee Michael's post, I've sort of formed the opinion that
> having wheels on a top heavy DP is sort of dangerous. No one would be
> there to assist me if I were to tip it a bit too far...

Why would you tip it? Pull and it rolls. Alternatively, push and it rolls.
It doesn't even *THINK* of tipping thanks to my nice big plywood base :)

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I wrote:
>> That's why 1/2-13 T-Nuts and carriage bolts exist.

"Bill" wrote

> Sorry, I'm not sure of the point you made (about these nuts and
> bolts).
--------------------------------
Adjustable feet. Put one in each corner.

Lew

"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> It's only going to tip if the wheels are too close together. If you
> want to overkill a wheeled platform make it big enough that you stand on
> it when you work the drill press. I don't think that that is necessary,
> but some people like overkill.
>
Just a comment,

I think it is ironic that you use the word overkill when talking about
safety.

For a dyed in the wool safety freak, there ain't no such thing.

Just saying...

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I appreciate the perspective of a dyed in the wool safety freak - after
> all, we all have something we're dyed in the wool about. That said - what
> are we really trying to protect against? As I said in another reply to
> this thread, my drill press has been in place forever, and it just sits on
> the floor. Never had any tipping threats, it just sits there and does its
> job. It's not like these things are teetering and ready to fall over as
> they stand there.
>
I HAVE seen them tip over. And have heard some stories. One time when they
are prone to tip over is whenmoving them.

I used to build gym equipment. I put bases on everything. It added to the
stability of the piece.

It probably depends on what you do with them. I place lots of stress on any
drill press I use. I have seen enough problems to make me believe this is an
issue and should be addressed.

If you have a little guy and don't use it much, it is not going to be a
problem. But there are applications and times when that added stability is a
very good idea.

Bill wrote:
> Morgans wrote:
>>
>>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>
>> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise
>> the platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag
>> bolt with a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small
>> bolt to use as a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine
>> bolts, but then you would need to weld some brackets to secure a
>> nut, ect. The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the
>> bolds
>> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only
>> take a few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a
>> heavier steel version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
>
>
> Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP,
> you have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle
> castor down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to
> stop the spindle on the castor.

No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels off/on to
the floor.
__________

> Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might
> fracture on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a
> couple inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that
> sort of stress when they are rolling.

I don't know what you mean by spindles. Are you thinking of casters with a
stem that goes into a socket? Don't...think of casters with a bolt on base.
A plate.
______________

> Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is
> this a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!


Lots of casters here...
http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_master_catalog/page/1047/highlight/caster

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Bill wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>
>> No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels
>> off/on to the floor.
>
> I have a hard time visualizing that with the bolt on castor but I'll
> keep trying.

What's hard?

1. A wood base with a plate caster in each corner.

2. A lag (or bolt and threaded insert) near each corner.

Turn the bolt/lag one direction and it goes down eventually touching the
floor. Keep turning and it will lift that corner off the floor. Repeat
with other three bolts/lags and the whole shooting match is off the floor
and won't roll. Repeat in reverse and it will be sitting on the wheels and
will roll.

Seems to me you have three decisions to make...

1. Do you want it on a base? Useful IMO.

2. Do you want it to be moveable? Personally, I find that desireable.

3. If moveable, do you want the ability to make it unmoveable. Again
personally, I have never had that need or desire.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> The reference to a "threaded insert" is very helpful to me. I assume
> it has some sort of flange and should thus be fit from the bottom. A
> washer and nut at the top, and two washers and a lock-nut on the
> bottom and it would be good-to-go, no? Maybe another threaded insert
> at the top?

A threaded insert has wood threads on the outside and machine threads on
the inside. A T-nut will have some sort of flange, and often have
spikes to keep it from turning. The T-nut spikes can't be trusted to
keep the bolt from falling out if the piece is lifted, while the
threaded insert can.

If you'd like pictures, just type in "T-nut" and "threaded insert" in
Google.

The nut/washer washer/nut system also works well if you can go through
the piece. The threaded inserts and T-nuts work well for things like
legs where going through the piece is impractical.

*snip*

> Thank you for the lesson!!
>
> Bill
>

Hope this helps,

Puckdropper

Bill wrote:

> Bolts seems to make more sense than screws With all that weight
> sitting on a retracted screw, it seems like it wouldn't take to long
> to strip out the wood. I'll know more after I see what sorts of
> parts, like thread inserts, I can get at the BORG.
>
> Do you think these castors will work okay (they are rated for 176
> pounds each). The 4" ones won't quite fit on the twobyfour frame, and
> it's not like they are going to see much mileage):

Let's see...176 x 4 = 704 lbs. Minimum. Your DP weighs what, maybe 275#
tops?

Yes, those would work. Lose the brakes though, no need if you are going to
stick in bolts and crank the thing up & down.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Bill wrote:

> It's too bad I don't have a DP to help me drill those 1/8" holes near
> the ends of half-inch diameter bolts. Maybe I'll pick up a few extra
> drill bits while I'm at the store.

You would have had one if you had just built the damn base instead of
obsessing over it :)

> (And to think, 3 days ago I was just going to mount my DP to a piece
> of plywood...

I still would. Specifically, to two pieces each 3/4" thick.

and judging by my floor, the DP would never have been
> level!).

It doesn't have to be. Or are you worrying about the ply sitting on a
non-flat floor? The wheels handle that well enough.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Mike Marlow" wrote:
>
> You are so distracted Bill. Focus! Keep your eye on all of the
> requirements of this project. You're so focused on this base, and
> overcomplicating something that could have been knocked together in
> an hour, that you've completely forgotten the critical components.
---------------------------------
Like the octopus with the bag pipe.

As soon as he figures out he can't f**k it, he'll play it or in Bill's
case, find something else to fret about.

The object is to talk a project to death, not complete it.

Lew

"Bill" wrote:

>> In case anyone remains interested, I put a scale drawing of my
>> rendition of the the mobile DP baseboard that you-all helped me
>> with
>> this week.
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> DUHHH, 2 by 8's are NOT 8" wide (etc.)!!! At least I caught it
> myself! There's another illustration of why it's important to draw
> the picture... so you don't make screw-ups like that!!! To my
> credit, the 2by4's are drawn 1.5" by 3.5"...
>
> Bil
>
>>
>> Take a look if you like. I should probably round off the outside
>> corners
>> for the sake of my ankles... The drawing should be good enough to
>> help
>> me select my materials. I'll fine-tune it after I settle on
>> suitable
>> castors/wheels.
----------------------------------------
Once again a mountain out of a mole hill.

Consider the following:

3 Pcs, 1-1/2" x 7-1/2 x 31-1/2 (Cut from a 2x8x96")

2 Pcs, 1-1/2" x 3-1/2 x 31-1/2 (Cut from a 2x4x96")


2 Pcs, 1-1/2" x 3-1/2 x 29-1/2 (Cut from a 2x4x96")

Assemble in a 31-1/2 x 29-1/2 configuration with 3" deck screws
grinding off a deck screw tips that break thru.

Mount a 1/2-13 Tee nut in each corner adding a 1/2-13 x 3" carriage
bolt and hex nut to lock bolt in place.

These will serve as adjustable mounting feet.

Add 1/2-13 Tee nuts as req'd to secure drill press foot plate with
1/2-13 hex head bolts and washers to the wood base.

Want to move drill press?

Grab 2 wheel moving dolly you all ready have to take the trash cans to
the curb and you're in business.

Don't have a dolly yet?

Get one.

Less than $30 and it will save your back

Lew

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> DUHHH, 2 by 8's are NOT 8" wide (etc.)!!! At least I caught it myself!
> There's another illustration of why it's important to draw the picture...
> so you don't make screw-ups like that!!! To my credit, the 2by4's are
> drawn 1.5" by 3.5"...
>
Depending where you buy your lumber, those dimensions may not be all that
accurate. I measure each board to insure the sizes are consistent. It is
amazing the variation of sizes in a stack of 2 X 6's.

Of course, if you are going to rip them, it won't be a problem. It did not
used to be this way. Now every manufacturer/retailer is a liar.

"Bill" wrote:

> Having not tried my router yet, I was thinking of getting a "piloted
> 1 1/2" flush trim bit"
> (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11322)
> to trim my "running boards" to size--taking off very little of the
> ends of my twobyeights. I assume it may leave an even nicer edge
> than my circular saw did (too).
>
> Rockler advises a router table for this bit. Is this a safe enough
> cut to do by hand? The wood is fir.

----------------------------
It's only a 1/2" dia bit.

Use in hand held all the time.


Lew

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Recall my little project (http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/).
>
> Having not tried my router yet, I was thinking of getting a "piloted
> 1 1/2" flush trim bit" (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11322)
> to trim my "running boards" to size--taking off very little of the ends of
> my twobyeights. I assume it may leave an even nicer edge than my circular
> saw did (too).
>
> Rockler advises a router table for this bit. Is this a safe enough cut to
> do by hand? The wood is fir.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>
> P.S. The "Woodworking Shows" is coming to Indianapolis this
> weekend--should be fun!


Let me know if you get any tearout at the end of the "cut". <G>

Max

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Recall my little project (http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/).
>
> Having not tried my router yet, I was thinking of getting a "piloted
> 1 1/2" flush trim bit" (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11322)
>
> Rockler advises a router table for this bit. Is this a safe enough cut to
> do by hand? The wood is fir.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill


Pshaw!! The ad shows a 1 'foot' cutter height. No wonder they advise a
router table. <G>

Max

In article <[email protected]>,
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> As far as "seating the chuck (and taper spindle)"--does it just require
> a gentle tap with a twobyfour and a hammer,

http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp

--
Stuart Winsor

Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011

Bill wrote:

>
> Jim,
>
> Thank you for all of your posts this morning. I read them very
> carefully. I like your design above. I'll be looking for some wheels
> that have total height of about 4+ inches. You say "don't make joints"
> but I assume you intend butt-joints for the four twobyfours on the
> floor (otherwise it could be pushed over sideways?). The SYP going
> across the top will overhang by about 4 inches on the sides to
> account for the wheels which will be attached to them. I hope that
> doesn't end up feeling like a safety hazard. I may need to put up
> rails (like at the bank) so that you need to enter the DP area head
> on... LOL.
> It's too bad I don't have a DP to help me drill those 1/8" holes near
> the ends of half-inch diameter bolts. Maybe I'll pick up a few extra
> drill bits while I'm at the store.
>
> Thanks to everyone who has helped and to everyone who is following
> along. Mike, would you route with an ogee or a roundover bit around
> the top (j/k)?
>
> (And to think, 3 days ago I was just going to mount my DP to a piece
> of plywood...and judging by my floor, the DP would never have been
> level!).

You are so distracted Bill. Focus! Keep your eye on all of the
requirements of this project. You're so focused on this base, and
overcomplicating something that could have been knocked together in an hour,
that you've completely forgotten the critical components. What about the
two dedicated 120v lighting circuits and the extra 240v circuit? Of course,
since a drill press is a hazardous environment, it would be necessary to
wire this in conduit. As well, since you have a predispositon for overkill,
I would recommend using 4ga copper wire for the circuits - just in case.

Then of course, we cannot forget the anticipation for dust collection at the
drill press. I'd suggest 8" PVC for the ducting. Don't forget the internal
and the external grounds for the PVC ducting. It might pay to purchase a
couple of "Explosion Hazard" signs to post around the drill press as well...

You haven't even gotten to the point of what kind of finish to apply to the
SYP base. I know it's all a lot to consider, but might I suggest a good
coat of used 30 weight engine oil? Poured on of course - not wiped on.
Everybody knows that30 weight provides a better looking finished when just
poured on.

Hope this helps...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Dec 29, 6:03=A0pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>
> =A0> An "in-stock" item on their website, put on backorder and my card
> =A0> charged in the interim.
> =A0>
> =A0> Raised hell with both CPO (I refused to cancel the order and let the=
m
> =A0> off the hook) and my credit card company and ended up getting the pa=
rt
> =A0> much sooner than I would have according to their original email ...
> =A0> coincidental? I think not.
> =A0>
> =A0> This is an apparent "business practice" that they indulge in when it=
is
> =A0> convenient to them and I personally will not allow them to indulge b=
y
> =A0> tying up my $$/credit, period.
>
> <old message>:
> Swingman, Inspired by your comments, I just sent an email message to the
> corporate level (Delta/Porter-Cable) regarding their "Authorized Delta
> Online Retailer". =A0One might infer CPO is =A0violating their policy of
> "7-day delivery for in stock merchandise". Perhaps that will motivate
> them to ship my DP a little faster..
>
> Bill
> -------------------------
>
> Well, in case anyone is curious, here is the final update/history:
>
> First week of November, Ordered Delta 17-959L DP. Item was listed as in
> stock for next day delivery. Was informed 5 days later that order was
> expected to ship in late January.
>
> 2 weeks later, I emailed CPO to ask if they were going to temporarily
> refund my CC due to the long time frame, but I did not receive a reply.
>
> I contacted Porter-Cable describing the details of this matter with
> regard to policies associated with being a "Authorized Delta Online
> Retailer". After another 2 weeks, I suspect they had not received a
> reply from them (either), so, perhaps motivated in part by my email
> messages, they elevated my concern to having their sales-rep investigate.
>
> A few days after that, I got a phone call from CPO, out of the blue,
> offering to upgrade my order to the Delta 18-900L at no additional cost
> (which I thought was really cool!). They said that they thought there
> was one at the factory ready to ship the next day or so.
>
> About 3 weeks later (today), a very long 18-wheeler showed up at the end
> of my steet and I happily toted my new DP 250 feet to its new home on my
> dolly. :) =A0 =A0This purchasing experience was a little frustrating, but
> the numbers worked out pretty well for me in the end. =A0I want to say
> "Thanks CPO(for the free upgrade)! =A0I appreciate that CPO always
> answered their phone even it they usually didn't have the details I was
> looking for.
>
> The carton arrived in excellent condition, so the DP appears to have had
> a nice uneventful 500 mile trip. My inclination is to wait until after I
> finish my painting and lighting upgrade, before assembling it. =A0 Maybe
> I'll just peek inside the box to make sure there are no broken plastic
> parts, or the like. =A0This surely will be smarter than assembling it now=
,
> right? =A0I'm not sure I'll be able to get through the whole day without
> that "peek"! :)
>
> Bill

I'd be putting it together right now if I was you. You can cover it
with garbage bags or whatever when you paint. Get drillin' some stuff.

RP

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" wrote:
>>
>> You are so distracted Bill. Focus! Keep your eye on all of the
>> requirements of this project. You're so focused on this base, and
>> overcomplicating something that could have been knocked together in
>> an hour, that you've completely forgotten the critical components.
> ---------------------------------
> Like the octopus with the bag pipe.
>
> As soon as he figures out he can't f**k it, he'll play it or in Bill's
> case, find something else to fret about.
>
> The object is to talk a project to death, not complete it.
>

I tried to bury it in humor (hope that attempt did not fail), but you're
spot on. Reading this Bill? It's the same thing we said before when you
were worried about every other project. Get at it man! Just do it. There
are no significant enough differences in any of the alternatives that you're
examining to be worth stalling your project. You can't fail with any of the
ideas put forward.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I have a hard time visualizing that with the bolt on castor but I'll keep
> trying.

Two different parts that are both there at the same time. The bolts are
just to the side of the wheels, but only the wheels or the bolts are used at
any one time. I agree with the comment of using casters on a screw on
plate. You can use two fixed non steering, and two all direction plates, or
use all direction plates. I liker the latter better.
--
Jim in NC

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Morgans wrote:
>
>> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
>> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
>> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
>> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
>> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>>
>> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
>> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
>> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
>> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
>
> Jim (I thought this post was a better place to ask my question, so Please
> ignore that I'm asking here too),
>
> Did you use (soft) angle steel stock to make your own pieces? If so, it
> seems like hardening it would be necessary too, no?
>
> Bill
>

As shipped is plenty strong.
--
Jim in NC

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> Morgans wrote:
>>>
>>>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>>>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>>>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>>
>>> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
>>> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
>>> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
>>> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
>>> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>>>
>>> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
>>> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
>>> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
>>> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
>>
>>
>> Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP, you
>> have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle castor
>> down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to stop the
>> spindle on the castor.
>>
>> Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might fracture
>> on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a couple
>> inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that sort of
>> stress when they are rolling.
>>
>> Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is this
>> a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
> Does anyone see a way to combine Jim wheel idea with the rectangular base
> built out of twobyfours using overlapping joints that we were talking
> about earlier? I can't see that those wheels have anywhere to hide in the
> base unless I add in an "axel" for each of them. It's been good food for
> thought. I'll keep thinking on it. Mobility is good.

You could do it like my very recent post, or you could make a base
(perimeter only-add wood for where the DP sits and bolts to the base) by
laying two 2x4's directly on the floor parallel to each other. Add 2x4's at
a 90 degree angle to those first two 2x4's to form the perimeter and more
across the top to set the machine on. Don't make joints, other than the
fact that the second layer is sitting on the first two on top of the first
ones, and screwed together.

Mount the base type casters on the bottom of the second layers. If you
used a 2" wheel, your base of the first two 2x4's would be off the ground by
a little over 1/2". You could use taller wheels and longer bolts, or use
4x4's for the first two pieces and use 4" wheels. I never use less than
that, or the wheels are too hard to move over slivers of wood and screws and
crap that are on the floor.
--
Jim in NC

They should all start out the same size from the same manufacturer.

Lumber shinks differently as it dries.

I have a huge dip in my great room floor. WHen laying the hardwood I went to
the basement and laid a level across three joist...all about level. Then I
measured the width of the lumber and found 11.25 down to 10.625" right
beside each other. Two years old. GRRRRRR.... They all started out the same
from the same supplier.

In the 60's wood sizes were changing to consistant dimensions. Not sure when
it actually happened bu the slide from actual 2x4 took many years.


"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
The one who sold the contractor the lumber to build my house sure was.
Went to replace a floor joist and was surprised when a 2x8 wouldn't
fit-- it turned out to be 1-1/2 x 7. And built in the '60s so can't
blame antiquity (although the '60s being the '60s one _could_ blame
altered states of consciousness).

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
> past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.
>
> I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0
> emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound
> DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application
> calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as opposed to a
> residential counter top).

Are you going to be inspected by OSHA or something? If not then don't
worry about any specific grade. The "formaldehyde-free" stuff that Home
Depot sells is all hardwood and it's a pretty decent grade. It should
do fine. If you don't trust it glue two thicknesses of it together so
that you've got an inch and a half--that should hold anything that
you're able to carry into your shop without a forklift.


> When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he
> didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her
> DP. So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.

Basically you want to keep it from tipping over. Use a layer of 3/4
inch ply of any decent grade with a 2x3 frame under it and you've
overkilled the problem.

> Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
> 24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is
> suggested by the manual.
>
> Please advise, if you would be so kind.

If you don't work with big pieces you can probably get away with no
baseboard. However having gotten used to getting away with it one day
you'll forget yourself and use it to drill something big enough to tip
it over. And the top of a drill press is a really big hammer.

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> dadiOH wrote:
>
> > Since you liked my 2x4 base idea, I got up from my sick bed, walked out to
> > my shop and looked to see exactly what I had done.
>
> Aww.. don't do that again. Your post was interesting to read though.
> Guided by Lee Michael's post, I've sort of formed the opinion that
> having wheels on a top heavy DP is sort of dangerous. No one would be
> there to assist me if I were to tip it a bit too far...

It's only going to tip if the wheels are too close together. If you
want to overkill a wheeled platform make it big enough that you stand on
it when you work the drill press. I don't think that that is necessary,
but some people like overkill.

> You made a good point about not having a flat base on the floor.
> Hopefully a rectangular frame contacting as much of the floor as
> possible will be okay--I can always shim it.
>
> Bill
>
>
> >
> > I didn't use 2x4s. What I did...
> >
> > 1. Two pieces of appropriately sized 3/4 ply fastened together.
> >
> > 2. Caster in each corner.
> >
> > 3. There are two pieces of 2x4 hinged on edge to the underside of the ply.
> > When they *are* on edge, the casters are not touching the floor; when the
> > pieces are in the "up" (not on edge) position, they are held that way by a
> > couple of cabinet catches; they are moved from up to down by two 3/4"
> > plywood handles attached to the 2x4s. The purpose of all this was to
> > provide stability whenever I needed to exert great lateral force with the
> > machine. That has never happened. IOW, a waste of time.
> >
> > 4. The DP is bolted to the ply base.
> > ______________
> >
> > Regarding your plan, there is nothing wrong with it and I'm reasonably sure
> > it would outlast the pyramids but I think it may be a tad more than is
> > really needed.
> >
> > Regardless of what you wind up doing, I don't think you want a solid flat
> > base sitting on the floor...floors aren't necessarily flat...wood chips get
> > on the floor...wood chips keep stuff from sitting flat. Et cetera.
> >
> >

In article <[email protected]>, "Lee
Michaels" says...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote
> >
> > It's only going to tip if the wheels are too close together. If you
> > want to overkill a wheeled platform make it big enough that you stand on
> > it when you work the drill press. I don't think that that is necessary,
> > but some people like overkill.
> >
> Just a comment,
>
> I think it is ironic that you use the word overkill when talking about
> safety.
>
> For a dyed in the wool safety freak, there ain't no such thing.

Which is why companies run by dyed in the wool safety freaks tend to go
under.

If there is no such thing as overkill then one would rip up the floor
and pour a new footing for each tool.

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Bill wrote:
> > Morgans wrote:
> >>
> >>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
> >>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
> >>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
> >>
> >> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
> >> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
> >> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
> >> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
> >> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
> >>
> >> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
> >> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
> >> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
> >> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
> >
> >
> > Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP, you
> > have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle castor
> > down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to stop the
> > spindle on the castor.
> >
> > Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might fracture
> > on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a couple
> > inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that sort of
> > stress when they are rolling.
> >
> > Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is this
> > a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!
> >
> > Bill
> >
>
> Does anyone see a way to combine Jim wheel idea with the rectangular
> base built out of twobyfours using overlapping joints that we were
> talking about earlier? I can't see that those wheels have anywhere to
> hide in the base unless I add in an "axel" for each of them. It's been
> good food for thought. I'll keep thinking on it. Mobility is good.

2x4 frame. A couple of layers of 3/4" ply on top. Casters bolted to
ply underneath.

Gives a nice flat easy to clean surface, 2x4s give plenty of stiffness
and hide casters.

As for the bolts, get some long cabinet levellers and T-nuts--should be
able to find 'em at Home Despot, if not then Lee Valley has them. You
can adjust the levellers from the top with a screwdriver or drill a hole
to take a piece of welding rod or whatever for a handle.

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Bill wrote:
> > Morgans wrote:
> >>
> >>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
> >>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
> >>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
> >>
> >> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise
> >> the platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag
> >> bolt with a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small
> >> bolt to use as a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine
> >> bolts, but then you would need to weld some brackets to secure a
> >> nut, ect. The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the
> >> bolds
> >> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only
> >> take a few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a
> >> heavier steel version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
> >
> >
> > Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP,
> > you have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle
> > castor down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to
> > stop the spindle on the castor.
>
> No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels off/on to
> the floor.
> __________
>
> > Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might
> > fracture on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a
> > couple inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that
> > sort of stress when they are rolling.
>
> I don't know what you mean by spindles. Are you thinking of casters with a
> stem that goes into a socket? Don't...think of casters with a bolt on base.
> A plate.

Wait a minute. How about casters with threaded stems, put a tee-nut on
the bottom a cross-piece and a hex nut on the top, when it's time to
move you loosen the hex nut, turn the stem down until the weight is on
the caster, then sock down the hex nut to hold it in place. When you've
got it moved reverse the procedure to lift the caster?




> ______________
>
> > Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is
> > this a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!
>
>
> Lots of casters here...
> http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_master_catalog/page/1047/highlight/caster

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> In case anyone remains interested, I put a scale drawing of my
> rendition of the the mobile DP baseboard that you-all helped me with
> this week.
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> Take a look if you like. I should probably round off the outside corners
> for the sake of my ankles... The drawing should be good enough to help
> me select my materials. I'll fine-tune it after I settle on suitable
> castors/wheels.

I would put the wheels inside the rails, not outside, your ankles will
thank you if you do that.
>
> Bill
>
>
> Morgans wrote:
>
> > Two different parts that are both there at the same time. The bolts are
> > just to the side of the wheels, but only the wheels or the bolts are
> > used at any one time. I agree with the comment of using casters on a
> > screw on plate. You can use two fixed non steering, and two all
> > direction plates, or use all direction plates. I liker the latter better.

In article <[email protected]>, "Lee
Michaels" says...
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
> >
> > DUHHH, 2 by 8's are NOT 8" wide (etc.)!!! At least I caught it myself!
> > There's another illustration of why it's important to draw the picture...
> > so you don't make screw-ups like that!!! To my credit, the 2by4's are
> > drawn 1.5" by 3.5"...
> >
> Depending where you buy your lumber, those dimensions may not be all that
> accurate. I measure each board to insure the sizes are consistent. It is
> amazing the variation of sizes in a stack of 2 X 6's.
>
> Of course, if you are going to rip them, it won't be a problem. It did not
> used to be this way. Now every manufacturer/retailer is a liar.

The one who sold the contractor the lumber to build my house sure was.
Went to replace a floor joist and was surprised when a 2x8 wouldn't
fit-- it turned out to be 1-1/2 x 7. And built in the '60s so can't
blame antiquity (although the '60s being the '60s one _could_ blame
altered states of consciousness).

In article <[email protected]>, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Has anyone noticed any good deals on bits at The Woodworking Shows that
> I should be on the lookout for? I think I'd like to get a small set of
> "round-over" bits. I am obviously not running a production shop, but
> I'd rather not buy cheap bits

Just shop - don't sweat the pay to get in, pay to get out shows...you
can usually do better on-line and miss the hype.

I suggest just buying bits as you need them - otherwise you'll end up
with a bunch of bits you don't use. Or buy a set of "cheap bits" and see
which ones wear out and replace those with better ones.

IMHO far too much money/effort is often spent on complex router bits to
accomplish in one pass what can be done in 2-3 passes with simple bits
in combination, on projects where 2-3 passes is not that big of a deal
in the overall time, and time isn't money, but bits are.

While the true believers will wail that the angles are all wrong, for
straight spiral bits, I veer into the metalworking suppliers to save up
to 80% off (that does take a good sale) WW suppliers for what certainly
appear to be the same bits (end mills, in metalworking parlance), and
the angles work just fine for me. Pay attention to shank size ;-)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

In article <[email protected]>,
"Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Was looking at some end mills just the other day for their intended use and
> a light bulb lit up that they looked just like spiral router bits. Do you
> have a particular vendor you recommend?

MSC, Enco, McMaster-Carr - Enco, particularly, has lots of sales/free
shipping deals (and is apparently owned by MSC for some time now.)
Import .vs. Made in USA is clearly called out (and once in a while is
actually India, rather than that other place) so no problem/mystery
choosing domestic production, even though they certainly have lots of
import stuff. Enco has a bit less selection than the other two.

There are many others, those happen to be the big three, and get stuff
to you in reasonable time, if not always the rock-bottomest of price for
everything - shop around before committing - but often they are the only
places you can find that have certain items (now, things like a Sawzall,
you'll laugh at MSC's prices for, but those are easy to get elsewhere.)

I'll certainly go have a look at Travers now that Swingman has mentioned
it - was not on my radar previously. Comparing an item I use, Enco hot
deals catalog for the month has Atrax USA long 1/2 solid carbide end
mills for about $8 less than Traver's TTC offering (and $70 less than
the MA Ford version) for the 2" flute length, and has a 3" flute length
version if you need it (be careful about CNC Router programming errors
or you'll snap that sucker) which I don't see at Travers. Can't say that
I've actually compared all three brands in use. Regular prices are about
the same, but the sales are recurrent at Enco.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On 12/29/2010 5:11 PM, chaniarts wrote:
> Bill wrote:

>> it. Maybe I'll just peek inside the box to make sure there are no
>> broken plastic parts, or the like. This surely will be smarter than
>> assembling it now, right? I'm not sure I'll be able to get through
>> the whole day without that "peek"! :)
>>
>> Bill
>
> i would have looked inside whilst the truck was still there. i had a
> compressor delivered that was pre-broken, even though the outside gave no
> indication of that. i refused delivery and a new undamaged one came about 3
> weeks later.

You just guaranteed that will happen shortly ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Why not do what I did. I took 2 x 8 and put 2 of them under my drill
press. I used lags to tie it to the runners. you could use wider 2 x 10
if you needed more stability. My 2x8 did the trick. The only thing I
might add is a half lapped support that T out the back. But for me it
wasn't necessary since it doesn't rock back.

On 1/3/2011 9:39 AM, Bill wrote:
>
> I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
> past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.
>
> I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0
> emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound
> DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application
> calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as opposed to a
> residential counter top).
>
> When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he
> didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her
> DP. So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.
>
> Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
> 24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is
> suggested by the manual.
>
> Please advise, if you would be so kind.
>
> Bill

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Morgans wrote:
>>
>>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>
>> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
>> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
>> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
>> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
>> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>>
>> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
>> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
>> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
>> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
>
>
> Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP, you
> have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle castor
> down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to stop the
> spindle on the castor.
>
> Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might fracture on
> the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a couple inches
> long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that sort of stress when
> they are rolling.
>
> Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is this a
> $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!

Not quite.

I use the castors (wheels) that swivel on a ball bearing base in all
directions. Mount them so the base is an inch or two off the ground. If
you make a 2 x 4 base, you could cut or leave a (lets use approximate
dimensions) 2" x 3" hole in the base. Cover over the hole with a piece of
3/4" plywood onto the top side of the base. If you used a 3" caster, and
mount it to the underside of the ply, which would leave the base a little
over one inch off the floor.

Put the bolts through from the top of the base close to the outer edges of
the base for maximum stability. The end are on the concrete when you
tighten them up and continue tightening the bolt until they lift the wheels
a fraction of an inch off the ground. The action of threads only lifting
one corner of the machine at a times makes it very effortless to lift a very
heavy machine, and level it perfectly and not have it move when you apply
any side forces to the machine.
--
Jim in NC

On 1/21/2011 8:44 AM, Ecnerwal wrote:

> I'll certainly go have a look at Travers now that Swingman has mentioned
> it - was not on my radar previously. Comparing an item I use, Enco hot
> deals catalog for the month has Atrax USA long 1/2 solid carbide end
> mills for about $8 less than Traver's TTC offering (and $70 less than
> the MA Ford version) for the 2" flute length, and has a 3" flute length
> version if you need it (be careful about CNC Router programming errors
> or you'll snap that sucker) which I don't see at Travers. Can't say that
> I've actually compared all three brands in use. Regular prices are about
> the same, but the sales are recurrent at Enco.

Likewise, wasn't even aware of Enco ... thanks for the headsup.

I realize that Travers is not cheap, but I usually don't mind paying
extra for service and quality, both of which are in abundance at
Travers, IME.

But, if I can both of those somewhere else less expensively ....

Thanks.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> dadiOH wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels
>>>>> off/on to the floor.
>>>>
>>>> I have a hard time visualizing that with the bolt on castor but I'll
>>>> keep trying.
>>>
>>> What's hard?
>>>
>>> 1. A wood base with a plate caster in each corner.
>>>
>>> 2. A lag (or bolt and threaded insert) near each corner.
>
> The reference to a "threaded insert" is very helpful to me. I assume it
> has some sort of flange and should thus be fit from the bottom. A washer
> and nut at the top, and two washers and a lock-nut on the bottom and it
> would be good-to-go, no? Maybe another threaded insert at the top?
>
> Q1. Two attach the 2by8 SYP to the top of the frame (to which the DP is
> secured). I assume to use 2 3/4" screws with the top board pre-drilled. 4
> of those on each end of each board ought to hold the darn thing down, no?
> It may also give me a chance to test out the 10-Amp DeWalt drill I bought
> myself on sale for Christmas. :)
>
> Q2. I assume you position "coasters" under your lag bolts to prevent
> disintegrating the concrete.
>
> Thank you for the lesson!!

Look up blind nut. They would allow you to use machine bolts. If lag, cut
the end off square to protect the concrete. Lag bolts through 1 1/2" pine
would last 20 years, no problem with strength if you pre drill the hole so
the wood does not spit. Use 1/2" bolt.
--
Jim in NC

That should do it.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 16:37:08 -0500, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>
>> > Since you liked my 2x4 base idea, I got up from my sick bed, walked out to
>> > my shop and looked to see exactly what I had done.
>>
>> Aww.. don't do that again. Your post was interesting to read though.
>> Guided by Lee Michael's post, I've sort of formed the opinion that
>> having wheels on a top heavy DP is sort of dangerous. No one would be
>> there to assist me if I were to tip it a bit too far...
>
>It's only going to tip if the wheels are too close together. If you
>want to overkill a wheeled platform make it big enough that you stand on
>it when you work the drill press. I don't think that that is necessary,
>but some people like overkill.

That sounds like a trip hazard, though it would probably be better on the feet
than a concrete floor.

Bill wrote:
> tiredofspam wrote:
>> Why not do what I did. I took 2 x 8 and put 2 of them under my drill
>> press. I used lags to tie it to the runners. you could use wider 2 x
>> 10 if you needed more stability. My 2x8 did the trick. The only
>> thing I might add is a half lapped support that T out the back. But
>> for me it wasn't necessary since it doesn't rock back.
>
> That seems alot like what Lee Michaels suggested, except he has the
> "frame" on the bottom and, if I understand correctly, any framing
> involved above would go on top of the "runners". It appears the design
> above may wobble if floor is not flat. Nice practical design though,
> and I like your idea of using 2by8's!
>

I'll simply add to this thread by saying that my drill press simply sits on
the floor. I have put long goods on it, but I use supports when I do so.
It has never even threatened to tip. It seems like we are engineering - or
over-engineering for things that aren't even likely to be a problem. I
know - it could...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>
>> You are so distracted Bill. Focus! Keep your eye on all of the
>> requirements of this project. You're so focused on this base, and
>> over-complicating something that could have been knocked together in
>> an hour, that you've completely forgotten the critical components. What
>> about the two dedicated 120v lighting circuits and the extra
>> 240v circuit?
>
> Mike, I think you are judging me a little harshly here. I have been
> working pretty hard this week (9PM-9AM), on my own time, on a
> work-related research problem as I concurrently apply myself here
> towards learning about design. My work requires mathematical focus,
> and what we have been doing here, to the (my) untrained mind, requires
> analytical focus too. You do seem to understand, that for me, learning
> the techniques is as important to me as the end result. Sort of like
> the "teach me to fish" parable. I don't know if you followed this
> thread closely, but I received the benefit of some really exceptional
> lessons (and they were not wasted on me)!!! You evidently didn't need
> the lessons. I regret if anything I write, or any other facet of my
> being, offends you. I try to write decent posts and to be respectful.

Bill - I believe you missed my intended humor. I apologize - I did not mean
to offend you. By the way - there is no teach a man to fish parable. That
is a complete misunderstanding of the real parable which is as follows...
Give a man some fire and you'll keep him warm for a day. Light a man on
fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 07:23:21 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:

>Bill wrote:
>> Morgans wrote:
>>>
>>>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>>>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>>>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>>
>>> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
>>> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
>>> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
>>> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
>>> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>>>
>>> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
>>> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
>>> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
>>> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
>>
>>
>> Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP, you
>> have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle castor
>> down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to stop the
>> spindle on the castor.
>>
>> Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might fracture
>> on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a couple
>> inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that sort of
>> stress when they are rolling.
>>
>> Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is this
>> a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
>Does anyone see a way to combine Jim wheel idea with the rectangular
>base built out of twobyfours using overlapping joints that we were
>talking about earlier? I can't see that those wheels have anywhere to
>hide in the base unless I add in an "axel" for each of them. It's been
>good food for thought. I'll keep thinking on it. Mobility is good.

While I disagree with the idea of a mobile base for a top-heavy DP,
you can buy them already built for $70 from Grizzly. Just add a couple
thicknesses of 3/4 baltic birch ply for a bolt-down base and Roberta's
yer auntie.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/G7314Z

--
Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for
anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one
tumble down the stairs.

Lee Michaels wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> It's only going to tip if the wheels are too close together. If you
>> want to overkill a wheeled platform make it big enough that you
>> stand on it when you work the drill press. I don't think that that
>> is necessary, but some people like overkill.
>>
> Just a comment,
>
> I think it is ironic that you use the word overkill when talking about
> safety.
>
> For a dyed in the wool safety freak, there ain't no such thing.
>
> Just saying...

I appreciate the perspective of a dyed in the wool safety freak - after all,
we all have something we're dyed in the wool about. That said - what are we
really trying to protect against? As I said in another reply to this
thread, my drill press has been in place forever, and it just sits on the
floor. Never had any tipping threats, it just sits there and does its job.
It's not like these things are teetering and ready to fall over as they
stand there.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Mon, 03 Jan 2011 09:39:37 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
>past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.

Bummer.


>I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0
>emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound
>DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application

OMG, an $830 drill press? Whatcha gonna make with it?


>calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as opposed to a
>residential counter top).

If the plywood will be on the concrete floor, why wouldn't any old
formaldehyde-free (FF) plywood work? If you just want to space it off
the floor, why not slap some FF plywood over wunbasixes or tubatwelves
to hold 'em together?


>When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he
>didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her
>DP. So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.
>
>Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
>24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is
>suggested by the manual.

What is the plywood for, specifically? It it's to help keep the DP on
its foot, the bigger the better.


>Please advise, if you would be so kind.

First, the picture of the new lighting array, all set up and glowing.
;)

--
You do not need a parachute to skydive.
You only need a parachute to skydive twice.

Bill wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>
>> An "in-stock" item on their website, put on backorder and my card
>> charged in the interim.
>>
>> Raised hell with both CPO (I refused to cancel the order and let them
>> off the hook) and my credit card company and ended up getting the
>> part much sooner than I would have according to their original email
>> ... coincidental? I think not.
>>
>> This is an apparent "business practice" that they indulge in when it
>> is convenient to them and I personally will not allow them to
>> indulge by tying up my $$/credit, period.
>
> <old message>:
> Swingman, Inspired by your comments, I just sent an email message to
> the corporate level (Delta/Porter-Cable) regarding their "Authorized
> Delta Online Retailer". One might infer CPO is violating their
> policy of "7-day delivery for in stock merchandise". Perhaps that
> will motivate them to ship my DP a little faster..
>
> Bill
> -------------------------
>
>
> Well, in case anyone is curious, here is the final update/history:
>
> First week of November, Ordered Delta 17-959L DP. Item was listed as
> in stock for next day delivery. Was informed 5 days later that order
> was expected to ship in late January.
>
> 2 weeks later, I emailed CPO to ask if they were going to temporarily
> refund my CC due to the long time frame, but I did not receive a
> reply.
> I contacted Porter-Cable describing the details of this matter with
> regard to policies associated with being a "Authorized Delta Online
> Retailer". After another 2 weeks, I suspect they had not received a
> reply from them (either), so, perhaps motivated in part by my email
> messages, they elevated my concern to having their sales-rep
> investigate.
> A few days after that, I got a phone call from CPO, out of the blue,
> offering to upgrade my order to the Delta 18-900L at no additional
> cost (which I thought was really cool!). They said that they thought
> there was one at the factory ready to ship the next day or so.
>
> About 3 weeks later (today), a very long 18-wheeler showed up at the
> end of my steet and I happily toted my new DP 250 feet to its new
> home on my dolly. :) This purchasing experience was a little
> frustrating, but the numbers worked out pretty well for me in the
> end. I want to say "Thanks CPO(for the free upgrade)! I appreciate
> that CPO always answered their phone even it they usually didn't have
> the details I was looking for.
>
>
> The carton arrived in excellent condition, so the DP appears to have
> had a nice uneventful 500 mile trip. My inclination is to wait until
> after I finish my painting and lighting upgrade, before assembling
> it. Maybe I'll just peek inside the box to make sure there are no
> broken plastic parts, or the like. This surely will be smarter than
> assembling it now, right? I'm not sure I'll be able to get through
> the whole day without that "peek"! :)
>
> Bill

i would have looked inside whilst the truck was still there. i had a
compressor delivered that was pre-broken, even though the outside gave no
indication of that. i refused delivery and a new undamaged one came about 3
weeks later.

Swingman wrote:
> On 12/29/2010 5:11 PM, chaniarts wrote:
>> Bill wrote:

>> i would have looked inside whilst the truck was still there. i had a
>> compressor delivered that was pre-broken, even though the outside gave no
>> indication of that. i refused delivery and a new undamaged one came
>> about 3
>> weeks later.
>
> You just guaranteed that will happen shortly ...
>

I unpacked the table and other loose parts from the carton. All of the
parts appear to be in excellent condition (sigh) and are suitably heavy.
I just read the manual. I'm sure my assembly time will far exceed the
30-60 minutes Delta provided as an estimate. It will take me that long
to fit a plywood baseboard to the base, not including a trip to the
store to get the necessary carriage bolts. I expect that either a
Forstner bit or a Brad point drill bit is called for to properly
countersink the holes on the bottom of the plywood, is that correct (I
currently lack both)?

As far as "seating the chuck (and taper spindle)"--does it just require
a gentle tap with a twobyfour and a hammer, or something more? I
realize it would be quite dangerous if these parts broke loose. The
owner's manual was vague regarding this (I know I can DAGS, I'm just
sharing my concerns...). That seems like the most tenuous connection in
the whole machine.

Hopefully, some of the assembly steps will go fast as there are quite a
few of them--not including adjusting the laser (LOL). I think I won't
rush. I'm not sure if I'll need assistance or not. I have some carpeting
I plan to lay on the concrete first. And if I can install the head there
(horizontally), I may be able to complete the job myself... Should be
interesting. Once I get that plywood baseboard to fit properly I should
have enough confidence to sail through the rest of the assembly (yes,
that is sarcasm...)! One step at a time...truly amazing (to me) how
that seems to simplify the overwhelming...

Maybe I'll be able to drill some "suet logs" for my wife's birds in a
few days...that's something to shoot for. : ) Thanks for your interest.

Bill

dadiOH wrote:

>> I realize it would be quite dangerous if these parts broke
>> loose.
>
> Dangerous? All that would happen is that they would drop out.

Yes, but I find the thought of them dropping out at 2000 RPM to be
unsettling! :) Thank you, and Stuart, for your tips!

The weather is cooperating (50F), which is really nice because the snow
has melted and there is lots more room to cut plywood outside(on saw
horses). I'll try for perfect cuts with a homemade "fence" and a
circular saw. I think I'm sort of getting to be a more knowledgeable
newbe--this project should help me assess how I'm doing! If I can't cut
a nice rectangle with 4 holes in the right place, maybe I should give up
now (j/k)! :) I'm not going to settle for anything I couldn't show to
Lew!

Bill

I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.

I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0
emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound
DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application
calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as opposed to a
residential counter top).

When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he
didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her
DP. So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.

Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is
suggested by the manual.

Please advise, if you would be so kind.

Bill

Swingman wrote:

> In many parts of the country Home Depots' hardwood plywood, "PureBond"
> brand, is manufactured by Columbia Forest Products which uses
> formaldehyde free glue in their process, and _is_ LEEDS EQ 4.4 compliant:
>
> http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/FAQ.aspx
>
> As in all things having to do with marketing these days, the word "free"
> may not mean to you what it means to a sleazy marketeer, so YMMV. Still
> worth checking out.
>

In their brochure, Columbia Forest Products describes their "PureBond"
products as being suitable for "furniture, cabinets, and fixtures". As
they omitted "flooring", I'm inferring that it may not be up to the task
of serving as a baseboard for my DP. I have a Home Depot nearby and am
hoping to be able to use their PureBond materials in my projects.
Thank you for your suggestion.

Bill

Lee Michaels wrote:
...


> You paid good money for this machine. You don't want anything to happen
> to it. You want to operate it in a safe fashion., It is prudent, safe
> and intelligent to make this machine stable.

Lee, Your points are well taken. I DO intended to drill mortises on
long boards (and the potential concerns were already going through my
head. Your post provides the confirmation I needed to resolve this
matter in an appropriate way.

Making a base board out of 2by4s, as dadiOH suggested, seems the most
practical setup to me. The DP has 18" x 23" base, and a (minimum)
24" x 29" baseboard (3" overhang) was recommended in owner's manual.


Please consider the following design: 30" by 33" (6" overhang), 3 1/2" high.

Formed by twenty 33" 2by4s bound together only with 4 or 5 half-inch
diameter 29.5" threaded steel rods (using countersunk bolts).

This is hardly cast in stone. I appreciate the feedback I get from you
folks who know what you are doing!

Glue necessary? Shrinkage concerns? Additional threaded rods?
The manual suggested attached DP base to baseboard with M8x 1.25 x125mm
carriage bolts. Obviously, the baseboard above will require much longer
bolts. Realizing that the 4 bolts holding the DP to the baseboard are
an important factor, will the extra width introduce a new new safety
concern?


dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to move
it around easily would definitely be nice!

Bill

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Jan 2011 09:39:37 -0500, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the
>> past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.
>
> Bummer.
>
>
>> I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0
>> emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound
>> DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application
>
> OMG, an $830 drill press? Whatcha gonna make with it?

For starters, I'm going to drill the mortises on my new work benches (I
posted pictures of them in a SU drawing on my web site a while back). It
may also be nice for drilling a banjo neck where the hoop attaches. Oh,
and "suet logs" for my wife's birds. I may try to go into business
making those..if I can get the price they get for them at "Bird's Unlimited"

By the way, I did not justify paying $830 for a drill press. I just sort
of lucked my way into one at a much reduced price. No, less.


>> Please advise, if you would be so kind.
>
> First, the picture of the new lighting array, all set up and glowing.
>

Yep, I'm looking forward to seeing something like that too! Thanks for
your help and your interest!

Bill

Lee Michaels wrote:

> If you are going to use 2 X 4's, you don't have to make a bench top to
> mount the drill press on. Just layout a big rectangle with the 2 X stock
> laying flat. Then take a circular saw and cut some lap joints. Use some
> construction adhesive and screws or nails. Make up a big platform that
> is an inch and a half thick. If you need to cover it, just use some low
> cost pine. That way you don't have to use the chemical laden plywood.
> Remember, it is just a platform to mount your tool on. It is not some
> piece of furniture. I have seen and built a basic little stand
> underneath the drill press on the platform. You can store a few things
> there, drills, etc.

I like the design alot! Thank you for explaining it.

Bill





>
> I have built a number of these platforms and like the ones that are big
> enough to stand on. Your bodyweight just adds to the stability of the
> machine while you are working.
>
> I would also use a stronger bolt than a carriage bolt. Most carriage
> bolts these days are cheap junk. Get something that is hardened and
> countersink the heads.
>
>>
>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>
> As long as you don't have to move it far, having a wood surface on top
> of cement, you can drag it to where you want. If you have to move it
> far, use wheels. I worry about wheels on something like this. Drill
> presses are top heavy and it is easy for it to get away from you when
> you are tipping it. I don't want to add wheels to that equation.
>
>
>

Lee Michaels wrote:

> If you are going to use 2 X 4's, you don't have to make a bench top to
> mount the drill press on. Just layout a big rectangle with the 2 X stock
> laying flat. Then take a circular saw and cut some lap joints. Use some
> construction adhesive and screws or nails. Make up a big platform that
> is an inch and a half thick. If you need to cover it, just use some low
> cost pine. That way you don't have to use the chemical laden plywood.
> Remember, it is just a platform to mount your tool on. It is not some
> piece of furniture. I have seen and built a basic little stand
> underneath the drill press on the platform. You can store a few things
> there, drills, etc.
>

Hmmm..the way I was thinking of this design the first time I read it was
to span 2by4 "ribs" across the inside of the frame (in fact, essentially
"filling" the frame). Of course, they would be held by nails or screws
into end grain. This might not be an issue because they are basically
being supported by the concrete. Or perhaps even better, I could nail
them to the frame from above at a 45 degree angle. If I omit the ribs
then the pine seems sure to bow a great deal raising vanity and safety
concerns. Then I was going to nail 3/4" pine over the frame/ribs.


I've been thinking about cutting those overlapping joints. I just
measured that my circular saw can cut 2 1/2 inches deep. I will make the
cut on the end with appropriate fear and trepidation. I may even buy an
extra piece of wood, just in case, based upon my previous experience
with this circular saw...

One problem will be that the end of a 2by4 is too short to give me a
"line of sight". Hmmm...maybe I can clamp a fixture(straight iron) to
the edge of the board to guide the saw. Woodworking 101 stuff, huh?

Bill






> I have built a number of these platforms and like the ones that are big
> enough to stand on. Your bodyweight just adds to the stability of the
> machine while you are working.
>
> I would also use a stronger bolt than a carriage bolt. Most carriage
> bolts these days are cheap junk. Get something that is hardened and
> countersink the heads.
>
>>
>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>
> As long as you don't have to move it far, having a wood surface on top
> of cement, you can drag it to where you want. If you have to move it
> far, use wheels. I worry about wheels on something like this. Drill
> presses are top heavy and it is easy for it to get away from you when
> you are tipping it. I don't want to add wheels to that equation.
>
>
>

dadiOH wrote:

> Since you liked my 2x4 base idea, I got up from my sick bed, walked out to
> my shop and looked to see exactly what I had done.

Aww.. don't do that again. Your post was interesting to read though.
Guided by Lee Michael's post, I've sort of formed the opinion that
having wheels on a top heavy DP is sort of dangerous. No one would be
there to assist me if I were to tip it a bit too far...

You made a good point about not having a flat base on the floor.
Hopefully a rectangular frame contacting as much of the floor as
possible will be okay--I can always shim it.

Bill


>
> I didn't use 2x4s. What I did...
>
> 1. Two pieces of appropriately sized 3/4 ply fastened together.
>
> 2. Caster in each corner.
>
> 3. There are two pieces of 2x4 hinged on edge to the underside of the ply.
> When they *are* on edge, the casters are not touching the floor; when the
> pieces are in the "up" (not on edge) position, they are held that way by a
> couple of cabinet catches; they are moved from up to down by two 3/4"
> plywood handles attached to the 2x4s. The purpose of all this was to
> provide stability whenever I needed to exert great lateral force with the
> machine. That has never happened. IOW, a waste of time.
>
> 4. The DP is bolted to the ply base.
> ______________
>
> Regarding your plan, there is nothing wrong with it and I'm reasonably sure
> it would outlast the pyramids but I think it may be a tad more than is
> really needed.
>
> Regardless of what you wind up doing, I don't think you want a solid flat
> base sitting on the floor...floors aren't necessarily flat...wood chips get
> on the floor...wood chips keep stuff from sitting flat. Et cetera.
>
>

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "dadiOH" wrote:
> .
>>
>> Regardless of what you wind up doing, I don't think you want a solid
>> flat base sitting on the floor...floors aren't necessarily
>> flat...wood chips get on the floor...wood chips keep stuff from
>> sitting flat. Et cetera.
> ---------------------------------------
> That's why 1/2-13 T-Nuts and carriage bolts exist.
>
> Lew
>
>
Sorry, I'm not sure of the point you made (about these nuts and bolts).

Bill

tiredofspam wrote:
> Why not do what I did. I took 2 x 8 and put 2 of them under my drill
> press. I used lags to tie it to the runners. you could use wider 2 x 10
> if you needed more stability. My 2x8 did the trick. The only thing I
> might add is a half lapped support that T out the back. But for me it
> wasn't necessary since it doesn't rock back.

That seems alot like what Lee Michaels suggested, except he has the
"frame" on the bottom and, if I understand correctly, any framing
involved above would go on top of the "runners". It appears the design
above may wobble if floor is not flat. Nice practical design though, and
I like your idea of using 2by8's!


I like Lee's idea of a rectangular frame with overlapping joints as
described earlier. How about spanning it across the top with 2by8's?
Seems like it should perform better (sag less) than if 3/4" pine was
used. Please advise about the type of screws to use for these 2by8's,
bearing in mind that the (heavy) DP will be afixed to just two of them.
Is pre-drilling necessary or desirable?

By the way, reaching a compromise, how about one extra support right
through the center of the frame (where the drill press exerts most of
it's weight). Or maybe a few more (more toward the center). That ought
to postpone any sagging. My next concern would be the best way to afix
such supports. Are angle brackets (or something similar) suitable? I
hope this thing doesn't fall apart on me! ; ) Thank you all for a
great lesson in construction this week! If you follow Jim Kramer on his
Mad Money show at all, you could be saying, "You Know Nothing!!!"

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:

> I'll simply add to this thread by saying that my drill press simply sits on
> the floor. I have put long goods on it, but I use supports when I do so.
> It has never even threatened to tip. It seems like we are engineering - or
> over-engineering for things that aren't even likely to be a problem. I
> know - it could...

There may also be external factors, such as other people, which may help
justify a higher level of safety precaution. If your shop has a key,
this may be a non-issue for you.

Bill

Morgans wrote:
>
>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>
> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>
> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.


Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP, you
have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle castor
down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to stop the
spindle on the castor.

Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might fracture
on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a couple
inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that sort of
stress when they are rolling.

Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is this
a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!

Bill

Bill wrote:
> Morgans wrote:
>>
>>> dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that
>>> would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to
>>> move it around easily would definitely be nice!
>>
>> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
>> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
>> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
>> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
>> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>>
>> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
>> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
>> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
>> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.
>
>
> Interesting idea Jim. If I understand your design, to move the DP, you
> have to lift one corner of the base manually, pull the spindle castor
> down, and then put something (say a lag bolt) in the hole to stop the
> spindle on the castor.
>
> Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might fracture
> on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a couple
> inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that sort of
> stress when they are rolling.
>
> Should I see what sort of wheels Harbor Freight has in stock, or is this
> a $100 feature..lol. I find the idea very clever!
>
> Bill
>

Does anyone see a way to combine Jim wheel idea with the rectangular
base built out of twobyfours using overlapping joints that we were
talking about earlier? I can't see that those wheels have anywhere to
hide in the base unless I add in an "axel" for each of them. It's been
good food for thought. I'll keep thinking on it. Mobility is good.

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:

> Mine certainly gets a work out - it's one of my more frequently used tools.
> But... mine is stationary and the bigger problem with mine is that damned
> flat surface it has...

Hard to move, huh?

dadiOH wrote:

> No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels off/on to
> the floor.

I have a hard time visualizing that with the bolt on castor but I'll
keep trying.



> __________
>
>> Not having much experience, I was thinking that the wood might
>> fracture on the bottom of the base unless the spindles are at least a
>> couple inches long--but I guess the wheels alleviate some of that
>> sort of stress when they are rolling.
>
> I don't know what you mean by spindles. Are you thinking of casters with a
> stem that goes into a socket? Don't...think of casters with a bolt on base.
> A plate.

Yes, I was. Thanks.

>
> Lots of casters here...
> http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_master_catalog/page/1047/highlight/caster
>

dadiOH wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>
>>> No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels
>>> off/on to the floor.
>>
>> I have a hard time visualizing that with the bolt on castor but I'll
>> keep trying.
>
> What's hard?
>
> 1. A wood base with a plate caster in each corner.
>
> 2. A lag (or bolt and threaded insert) near each corner.
>
> Turn the bolt/lag one direction and it goes down eventually touching the
> floor. Keep turning and it will lift that corner off the floor. Repeat
> with other three bolts/lags and the whole shooting match is off the floor
> and won't roll. Repeat in reverse and it will be sitting on the wheels and
> will roll.

I see. So the unit rests on the four lag bolts all of the time it is
stationary. With the wheels on the bottom of the base, that means the
lag bolts would have to extend beyond the height of the castors.
Perhaps it shouldn't, but the thought of subjecting each bolts to
1/4* 260 pounds=65 pounds of continuous force makes me hesitant. One
good push and they all bend or snap??? Maybe I just don't fully
appreciate the strength of a half-inch diameter bolt...they are pretty
ominous looking... Maybe I'll try making a SketchUp drawing.

Thanks!
Bill


>
> Seems to me you have three decisions to make...
>
> 1. Do you want it on a base? Useful IMO.
>
> 2. Do you want it to be moveable? Personally, I find that desireable.
>
> 3. If moveable, do you want the ability to make it unmoveable. Again
> personally, I have never had that need or desire.
>

Bill wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> dadiOH wrote:
>>>
>>>> No. The lags are to manually thread up/down to lift the wheels
>>>> off/on to the floor.
>>>
>>> I have a hard time visualizing that with the bolt on castor but I'll
>>> keep trying.
>>
>> What's hard?
>>
>> 1. A wood base with a plate caster in each corner.
>>
>> 2. A lag (or bolt and threaded insert) near each corner.

The reference to a "threaded insert" is very helpful to me. I assume it
has some sort of flange and should thus be fit from the bottom. A washer
and nut at the top, and two washers and a lock-nut on the bottom and it
would be good-to-go, no? Maybe another threaded insert at the top?

Q1. Two attach the 2by8 SYP to the top of the frame (to which the DP is
secured). I assume to use 2 3/4" screws with the top board pre-drilled.
4 of those on each end of each board ought to hold the darn thing
down, no? It may also give me a chance to test out the 10-Amp DeWalt
drill I bought myself on sale for Christmas. :)

Q2. I assume you position "coasters" under your lag bolts to prevent
disintegrating the concrete.

Thank you for the lesson!!

Bill

Morgans wrote:

> I would consider using 4 - 4" free casters, inset so they only raise the
> platform an inch or so. At each of the corners, put a 1/2" lag bolt with
> a hole drilled though sideways at the top to put a small bolt to use as
> a handle like a small C-clamp. You could use machine bolts, but then you
> would need to weld some brackets to secure a nut, ect.
>
> The idea is to roll the machine to a location, then thread the bolds
> deeper into the base, which lifts the rollers off the floor. Only take a
> few moments to have a self leveled base set up. I use a heavier steel
> version for my industrial delta 10" cabinet saw.

The description above makes more sense now. At first, I though the lag
bolts and the castors were mechanically connected... it's more like two
separate systems.

Bolts seems to make more sense than screws With all that weight sitting
on a retracted screw, it seems like it wouldn't take to long to strip
out the wood. I'll know more after I see what sorts of parts, like
thread inserts, I can get at the BORG.

Do you think these castors will work okay (they are rated for 176 pounds
each). The 4" ones won't quite fit on the twobyfour frame, and it's not
like they are going to see much mileage):

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202205536&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-202205542-_-202205536-_-N&locStoreNum=2019&marketID=276

Bill