I have given up on mating my Bosch 1617 EVS to my Craftsman metal bench-top router
table. As it now sits, only two of the four screws went into the router base via the
holes I drilled and tapped for them. The other two holes are not lined up for the
screw tips. I ground conical tips on those screws, but that did not work. They would
not pull in even with the other two screws loosened. The router is not stable since
it rocks slightly around the horizontal axis line of the two screws which went in
properly. Unsafe and not accurate. Calf rope indeed.
Hoyt W.
It wasn't my day to watch you. Sorry.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"dave in fairfax" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Pounds on Wood wrote:
> > You know, another way to skin that cat, is to make a sub-plate between
the
> > router and table. You could have avoided drilling the table.
>
> Now he tells me. After all those years of making carbs fit on
> manifolds, why the heck didn't I think of that. Good call.
> Dave in Fairfax
> --
> Dave Leader
> reply-to doesn't work
> use:
> daveldr at att dot net
> American Association of Woodturners
> http://www.woodturner.org
> Capital Area Woodturners
> http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have given up on mating my Bosch 1617 EVS to my Craftsman metal
> bench-top router
> > table. As it now sits, only two of the four screws went into the router
> base via the
> > holes I drilled and tapped for them.
>
> Tapped? Why did you tap them? IIRC, the screws pass through the top and
> into the threads of the router base.
> Ed
Ed, I misstated that part. I did not drill and tap new holes in the base of my
router. Here is the situation: With the router table upside down and the router
positioned about right, the screws go through the base of the Bosch and into the
tapped holes in the table. At least, that was my plan. Only 2 of the 4 M4 screws
lined up such that they could be inserted. The top of the table does have molded
countersinks for my 1 HP Craftsman router, but none of those holes line up with the
M4 holes which my Bosch presents. I apologize for the lack of clarity and correctness
in my OP.
Hoyt W.
Pounds on Wood wrote:
> You know, another way to skin that cat, is to make a sub-plate between the
> router and table. You could have avoided drilling the table.
Now he tells me. After all those years of making carbs fit on
manifolds, why the heck didn't I think of that. Good call.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Pounds on Wood wrote:
> You know, another way to skin that cat, is to make a sub-plate between the
> router and table. You could have avoided drilling the table.
>
(snip)
Now that is a good thought Bill. It never occurred to me. My local machine shop can
cut a properly-sized circle of 1/4" plate of aluminum or steel. I would get them
drill and tap the holes needed. The rest would just be the assembly. Neat indeed.
Thanks for the tip.
Hoyt W.
"patriarch <" wrote:
> Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Pounds on Wood wrote:
> >
> >> You know, another way to skin that cat, is to make a sub-plate
> >> between the router and table. You could have avoided drilling the
> >> table.
> >>
> >
> > (snip)
> >
> > Now that is a good thought Bill. It never occurred to me. My local
> > machine shop can cut a properly-sized circle of 1/4" plate of aluminum
> > or steel. I would get them drill and tap the holes needed. The rest
> > would just be the assembly. Neat indeed. Thanks for the tip.
> >
> > Hoyt W.
> >
>
> Does it seem to anyone else that an awful lot of energy and time are being
> expended to continue to use a less than optimal Craftsman benchtop router
> table?
>
> Half a sheet of 3/4 MDF or cabinet ply, and a new router plate from the
> woodworkers' store, and you can have exactly what you need.
>
> But then, maybe that wasn't the goal.
>
> Patriarch
I appreciate your suggestion. I was just trying to kludge something together with
what I had and that has not worked. I await the day I can buy a phenolic top with a
pre drilled insert for my Bosch router.
Hoyt W.
"Frank J. Vitale" wrote:
> I had the same problem when my craftsman router bit the dust. I salvaged
> the fence and made a table out of 3/4 inch melamine finished board and
> bought a new insert to hold the router.
Frank, that is one way to skin a cat. As for my original topic post, I am back at it
again - trying to mate my Bosch 1617EVS to the metal Craftsman bench. I just let it
rest for a week or so. "Bob" gave advice about drilling the Sommerfeld phenolic
insert plate for my router since it will come un-drilled for any router. I am
adapting his suggestion and now making a plywood interface plate to go between the
router and the bottom of the metal bench. My router will be mounted to said interface
plate and said plate will be bolted to the metal bench from above with counter sink
screws, washers, and nuts. In my mind's eye, I can see that it *should* work. In
practice ?????
Hoyt W.
Nate Perkins wrote:
> Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > (snip) I await the day I can buy a phenolic top with a
> > pre drilled insert for my Bosch router.
>
> Can't you buy one like that? Jessem sells a phenolic top with a
> cutout for the Mast-R-Plate through Woodcraft and other sources. I
> bet other manufacturers do it as well.
>
> I also have a 1617. I use a Jessem plate in a shopmade table.
>
> Cheers,
> Nate
TKX Nate. I fully intend to buy the Sommerfeld phenolic table top, fence, and
phenolic insert plate. I did a Google for the Jessem Mast-R-Plate and it looks good.
I assume that plate would not fit into the Sommerfeld table cut-out. It may, but I
will not take that chance. Jessem may tell me, but why should they? My guess is that
they want to sell the whole nine yards.
Hoyt W.
On Thu, 01 Jul 2004 09:23:32 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
Have a rectangular plate that will attach to the router [try lining up
the holes using the old router plate as a template.] The new plate
will extend past the router an inch or so. Now you have something to
attach the router to. Remove the plate and fit it over the router
table. Drill through both to secure the plate with four screws.
You'll have to tap the plate for that one.
The plate fastens down to the router, and the table fastens down to
the plate. Ryobi do this for their 10" saw/router combo.
Bill.
>I have given up on mating my Bosch 1617 EVS to my Craftsman metal bench-top router
>table. As it now sits, only two of the four screws went into the router base via the
>holes I drilled and tapped for them. The other two holes are not lined up for the
>screw tips. I ground conical tips on those screws, but that did not work. They would
>not pull in even with the other two screws loosened. The router is not stable since
>it rocks slightly around the horizontal axis line of the two screws which went in
>properly. Unsafe and not accurate. Calf rope indeed.
>
>Hoyt W.
Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
> (snip) I await the day I can buy a phenolic top with a
> pre drilled insert for my Bosch router.
Can't you buy one like that? Jessem sells a phenolic top with a
cutout for the Mast-R-Plate through Woodcraft and other sources. I
bet other manufacturers do it as well.
I also have a 1617. I use a Jessem plate in a shopmade table.
Cheers,
Nate
Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Pounds on Wood wrote:
>
>> You know, another way to skin that cat, is to make a sub-plate
>> between the router and table. You could have avoided drilling the
>> table.
>>
>
> (snip)
>
> Now that is a good thought Bill. It never occurred to me. My local
> machine shop can cut a properly-sized circle of 1/4" plate of aluminum
> or steel. I would get them drill and tap the holes needed. The rest
> would just be the assembly. Neat indeed. Thanks for the tip.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
Does it seem to anyone else that an awful lot of energy and time are being
expended to continue to use a less than optimal Craftsman benchtop router
table?
Half a sheet of 3/4 MDF or cabinet ply, and a new router plate from the
woodworkers' store, and you can have exactly what you need.
But then, maybe that wasn't the goal.
Patriarch
You know, another way to skin that cat, is to make a sub-plate between the
router and table. You could have avoided drilling the table.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have given up on mating my Bosch 1617 EVS to my Craftsman metal
bench-top router
> table. As it now sits, only two of the four screws went into the router
base via the
> holes I drilled and tapped for them. The other two holes are not lined up
for the
> screw tips. I ground conical tips on those screws, but that did not work.
They would
> not pull in even with the other two screws loosened. The router is not
stable since
> it rocks slightly around the horizontal axis line of the two screws which
went in
> properly. Unsafe and not accurate. Calf rope indeed.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have given up on mating my Bosch 1617 EVS to my Craftsman metal
bench-top router
> table. As it now sits, only two of the four screws went into the router
base via the
> holes I drilled and tapped for them.
Tapped? Why did you tap them? IIRC, the screws pass through the top and
into the threads of the router base.
Ed
On Thu, 01 Jul 2004 09:23:32 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Sorry. I thought you said calf rape.
If you get your email cut off, I am sorry.