My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole about
1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage disposal
(hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a "plastic"
case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water faucet is
turned on
You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
ones! :)
What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
Thank you,
Bill
"BobS" wrote:
> Go to your hardware store and get some JB Weld or a roll of a two
> part epoxy used on plastic and metal pipes (can't think of the name
> of it)
The only thing I'll add is to take a rasp, file or coarse sand paper
(60 grit) and roughen up the plastic around the ding to provide a
surface the epoxy can grab onto and provide a secure patch.
Lew
"Bill" wrote:
> I've got the receipt: Made by A.O. Smith, gas, 76 gallons, 6 years
> old --$145 (seems awfully cheap).
It's called tank replacement time.
If the budget can handle the inital investment, take a look at
tankless hot water system.
Higher inital cost, but significantly lower operating costs resulting
in lower total cost of ownership.
> Concerning the workbench, I have been thinking about how to make the
> almost square vertical supports--i.e., the ends, plus at least 2
> more (from SYP). I could glue 1" thick boards, say 6" wide, together
> so that the bench top will rest on end grain. Is SYP appropriate
> for all of the parts (these supports, plus drawers and shelves) ?
> When I get closer to having a finished design, I hope some of the
> readers here will critique it. Having fun.
Think about glue ups from 2by? (1-1/2" thick) stock at least 8-10
maybe 12 wide. (fewer defects to cut out).
Let others comment about SYP.
Drawer bottoms want to be plywood.
Can you get it cut by somebody else then seal with shellac before you
get near it?
Lew
"Phisherman" wrote:
> What about the $100 yearly maintenance charge for "descaling?"
Do you have unusually "hard" water?
Never heard of req'd annual "descaling".
>I
> almost got a tankless, but we have frequent power outtages. Our gas
> water heater is not dependant on electricity to run, but don't all
> natural gas tankless heaters need electricty?
Depends.
If the have a standing pilot, then no.
If they use 24VDC battery power for the piezo igniter, then no.
If they use 120VAC house power for the piezo igniter, then yes.
> There is a LOT to go wrong
> with tankless heaters.
What goes wrong?
Lew
In article <[email protected]>, Ed
Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> Take a look at one and see how it is built.
> http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/category/132/
> You can break away the plastic outer shell and have a perfectly working
> disposal.
But the OP said water was coming through the hole...
> Here are some details concerning the Gorilla tape:
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0 Maximum Temperature (Fahrenheit): 150 F.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 Minimum Temperature (Fahrenheit): 33 F.
>
I had used Gorilla tape to hold down an extension cord to the concrete
garage floor (unheated garage in SW Pennsylvania). Didn't expect the
tape to hold up with even light foot traffic. 3 years later, I had an
extremely difficult time getting the tape off the floor. That damn
tape held better than anything I've ever seen!
I'll vote JB Weld Too. The motor/gearbox casting of my old faithful
Ryobi surface planer have been held together for six months ago. I
would guess they get a more stringent workout than a disposal (but
maybe not as frequently). Don't be sparing with the stuff. A
controlled glob is probably in order.
RonB
On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:21:41 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
>plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole about
>1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage disposal
>(hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a "plastic"
>case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water faucet is
>turned on
>
>You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
>ones! :)
>
>What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
>Thank you,
>Bill
>
Bondo.
On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:21:41 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
>plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole about
>1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage disposal
>(hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a "plastic"
>case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water faucet is
>turned on
>
>You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
>ones! :)
>
>What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
New disposal.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole
> about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage
> disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a
> "plastic" case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water
> faucet is turned on
>
> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
> ones! :)
>
> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
If it is the plastic outer case, I'd do nothing. Many disposals have a
plastic outer covering that is there for style and to cover some insulation
and perhaps wire to the switch. In that case, just leave it or put a piece
of duct tape over it.
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:240920090757199066%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> In article <[email protected]>, Ed
> Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Take a look at one and see how it is built.
>> http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/category/132/
>> You can break away the plastic outer shell and have a perfectly working
>> disposal.
>
> But the OP said water was coming through the hole...
Actually, he said "now" comes throughthe hole
>> "plastic" case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water
>> faucet is turned on
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
>> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped
>> hole about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric
>> garbage disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The
>> disposal has a "plastic" case. Now, of course, water comes through
>> the hole when the water faucet is turned on
>>
>> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the
>> only ones! :)
>>
>> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
The epoxy or JB weld will work well, but since it's a drain, and not a
pressurized supply line, some high-grade duct tape - not the cheap stuff -
would probably be fine (Gorilla Tape is good stuff for this kind of thing).
Just be sure to degrease and thoroughly dry the area to be patched.
Scott
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Elrond Hubbard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things
>>>> like plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent
>>>> shaped hole about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our
>>>> electric garbage disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't
>>>> see). The disposal has a "plastic" case. Now, of course, water
>>>> comes through the hole when the water faucet is turned on
>>>>
>>>> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically
>>>> the only ones! :)
>>>>
>>>> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>>
>> The epoxy or JB weld will work well, but since it's a drain, and not
>> a pressurized supply line, some high-grade duct tape - not the cheap
>> stuff - would probably be fine (Gorilla Tape is good stuff for this
>> kind of thing).
>> Just be sure to degrease and thoroughly dry the area to be patched.
>>
>> Scott
>
> Here are some details concerning the Gorilla tape:
>
> Maximum Temperature (Fahrenheit): 150 F.
> Minimum Temperature (Fahrenheit): 33 F.
>
> J-B Weld has a much broader temperature range (up to 300 F. as I
> recall).
>
> I appreciate ALL of the suggestions! Thank you very much!
>
> To krw, who suggested a new disposal, I would ask: Why replace
> when
> repair
> may be successful and done in 1/20 of the time? A new one might
> even
> have
> a leak in it, or another defect,..and where would I be then?
> I've
> just been
> a home-owner for a little over 3 months, no doubt I'll pick up
> some
> plumbing
> skills as I go along. I recently bought a "FloodStop" unit for
> the
> washing machine
> (which shuts off the water if water hits the ground)...I'll
> start by
> installing that! : )
>
> Thanks again,
> Bill
>
>
>
>
Would YOU have bought the house with a patch on the garbage disposal?
Plan on any patch to be temporary. When you go to sell the house, you
won't want the patched GD killing the deal.
By the way, if hitting the side with a pan (and what was a pan doing
under the sink?) was enough to put a hole in the GD, the plastic may be
getting weak with age and be ready for a replacement anyway.
Brad
fixed typo:
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole
> about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage
> disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a
> "plastic" case. Now, of course, water comes through the hole when the
> water faucet is turned on
>
> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
> ones! :)
>
> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
>
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped
> hole about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric
> garbage disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The
> disposal has a "plastic" case. Now, of course, comes through the
> hole when the water faucet is turned on
>
> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the
> only ones! :)
>
> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
Go to your hardware store and get some JB Weld or a roll of a two part
epoxy used on plastic and metal pipes (can't think of the name of it)
Bob S.
>
"Elrond Hubbard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
>>> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped
>>> hole about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric
>>> garbage disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The
>>> disposal has a "plastic" case. Now, of course, water comes through
>>> the hole when the water faucet is turned on
>>>
>>> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the
>>> only ones! :)
>>>
>>> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
> The epoxy or JB weld will work well, but since it's a drain, and not a
> pressurized supply line, some high-grade duct tape - not the cheap stuff -
> would probably be fine (Gorilla Tape is good stuff for this kind of
> thing).
> Just be sure to degrease and thoroughly dry the area to be patched.
>
> Scott
Here are some details concerning the Gorilla tape:
Maximum Temperature (Fahrenheit): 150 F.
Minimum Temperature (Fahrenheit): 33 F.
J-B Weld has a much broader temperature range (up to 300 F. as I
recall).
I appreciate ALL of the suggestions! Thank you very much!
To krw, who suggested a new disposal, I would ask: Why replace when
repair
may be successful and done in 1/20 of the time? A new one might even
have
a leak in it, or another defect,..and where would I be then? I've
just been
a home-owner for a little over 3 months, no doubt I'll pick up some
plumbing
skills as I go along. I recently bought a "FloodStop" unit for the
washing machine
(which shuts off the water if water hits the ground)...I'll start by
installing that! : )
Thanks again,
Bill
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
>> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole
>> about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage
>> disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a
>> "plastic" case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water
>> faucet is turned on
>>
>> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
>> ones! :)
>>
>> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>>
>
> If it is the plastic outer case, I'd do nothing. Many disposals have a
> plastic outer covering that is there for style and to cover some insulation
> and perhaps wire to the switch. In that case, just leave it or put a piece
> of duct tape over it.
>
"Doing nothing", is not an option as plenty of water quickly finds it's
way to the hole. Maybe there is more to the story then meets the eye.
I'll post the "conclusion" later. Thanks! -Bill
Brad Bruce wrote:
> Would YOU have bought the house with a patch on the garbage disposal?
I bought my first house w/o a garbage disposal, my second house had one,
but it didn't work at all... Had it worked, but had a patch, I guess I
would have passed on the deal? $200,000 house... $75 GD... Seems iffy...
> Plan on any patch to be temporary. When you go to sell the house, you
> won't want the patched GD killing the deal.
Garbage disposals are temporary to begin with. Nothing lasts forever...
> By the way, if hitting the side with a pan (and what was a pan doing
> under the sink?) was enough to put a hole in the GD, the plastic may be
> getting weak with age and be ready for a replacement anyway.
I'll say. I don't think I could put a hole in mine with a pan, even if
I were trying... Have never really tried, but still...
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
"Brad Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message > Would YOU have
bought the house with a patch on the garbage disposal?
>
> Plan on any patch to be temporary. When you go to sell the house, you
> won't want the patched GD killing the deal.
> Brad
I bought the house even though the garage needed approximately $2000 worth
of cleanup (by doing the work myself, I think I can clean it nicely for
about 1/4 of that)! "We" really liked the house and "likeable" ones in our
price range are scarce in our neck of the woods. Of course, when I first
looked at the grimey floor, I thought maybe $300--but there was a
(fluid-leaking) boat, and ox-acetylene welding equiptment, etc. in the
garage in the way the day I saw the house and made an offer.
The good news is the J-B Weld has been applied. Following Lew's advice, I
roughed it up with some 80 grit first and cleaned the surface with 99%
rubbing alcohol (it took off plenty of blue paint or plastic). I had to
apply the stuff by reaching around where I couldn't see (used HF blue
nitrile gloves)...the first batch seemed like it sank into the
hole--immediately applied a second batch and it left more of a patch. It
looked pretty good via a flashlight and my wifes mirror (my error not to
have borrowed that before I applied the stuff)! There is a 15 hour set
time, so I'll know more tomorrow. Coincidently, our hot water heater broke
yesterday too..but somehow that doesn't bother me as much... Thanks again
to everyone who helped me with this problem!
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> Coincidently, our hot water heater broke yesterday too..but somehow that
>> doesn't bother me as much...
>
> Got any ideas how old the tank is?
>
> Lew
>
>
I've got the receipt: Made by A.O. Smith, gas, 76 gallons, 6 years
old --$145 (seems awfully cheap).
It's leaking hot water from the top--evidently theres a pin-hole sized hole
in the "shell", very close to where the
hot water goes out (the plumber seemed to try very hard to repair it for an
hour or two; I provided his final diagnosis).
Replacement of the heater is covered under home warrantee, except for
"modifications"--which are evidently are going to be in he in the
neighborhood of $325--because it's backed into a corner where a light sink
will have to be taken out, a gas line moved and the exhaust adjusted. I
think he's asking a little much, but I'm not sure there's much I can do. I
could ask him to leave the new heater in the garage and shop around. But I'm
not sure how much I could really save. In the meantime, we still have hot
water when we need it (the heater just leaks-quite a bit). As the problem
is worse since his visit, I've been shutting off the incoming pressure to
the heater when we are not using hot water. Please don't trouble yourself
with this one Lew--please save your energy for helping me to see my way
through my workbench project! : ) I'm getting closer and closer to the
concrete-grinding, epoxy flooring, and garage painting, and TS ordering
projects, after which I can begin physical work on the workbench.
Concerning the workbench, I have been thinking about how to make the almost
square vertical supports--i.e., the ends, plus at least 2 more (from SYP).
I could glue 1" thick boards, say 6" wide, together so that the bench top
will rest on end grain. Is SYP appropriate for all of the parts (these
supports, plus drawers and shelves) ? When I get closer to having a
finished design, I hope some of the readers here will critique it. Having
fun.
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> I've got the receipt: Made by A.O. Smith, gas, 76 gallons, 6 years
>> old --$145 (seems awfully cheap).
>
> It's called tank replacement time.
>
> If the budget can handle the inital investment, take a look at tankless
> hot water system.
The tank is covered under our home warranty, so we'll
let them give us a new one this time around. Of course, as
I mentioned before, we'll be paying alot for "special" installation.
> Drawer bottoms want to be plywood.
> Can you get it cut by somebody else then seal with shellac before you get
> near it?
For me, that would be sort of like putting a dead fly on top an ice cream
sundae--even
though one could avoid the fly with his or her spoon, just having it was
there
would ruin the whole thing! Maybe I could glue 1/4" or 3/8" boards
together, similarly
to the way I will do for the top, in effect making my own "plywood" for the
drawer
bottoms? Perhaps this could be my general solution for those situations
which call for plywood,
particle board, or MDF? If I'm going to do general projects, I need a
solution like that anyway.
It appears that the subsitution I find may provide a "signature" for my
work.
Years from now, besides playing "What is this?" people can ponder "Why would
anyone
make a drawer bottom like this?" ; )
Bill
>
> Lew
>
>
>
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Think about glue ups from 2by? (1-1/2" thick) stock at least 8-10
> maybe 12 wide. (fewer defects to cut out).
>
Another beginners question: Why might I expect few defects on wider
boards (intuitively, it seems like it would be easier to choose narrower
boards with fewer defects)? Is it because the wider boards
are necessarily cut from a deeper part of the log?
Bill
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The water heater is more of an issue. I took a few cold showers--not
> too bad until the cold water trickles down your back! Have your wife
> stand on a step ladder with a watering can full of stove-heated water
> until you have it replaced. Household things seem to break at the
> same time.
> :(
As I washed my face with a cold wash cloth, I was just thinking about the
"good ole days" when somebody also had to go out and pump the cold water
from a well! The cold shave didn't both me much this morning either. Sort
of makes me feel like a pioneer! : )
In case anyone is sitting on the edge of their seat concerning the leak in
the GD: Water was coming (now) from a pin-hole sized hole in the J-B Weld
stuff. I could not have formed such a perfect hole without actually using
a pin. Considering I started a hole I described as 1/6 the size of a dime,
I'm making progress. Whipped up and applied a 3rd batch.
I'll post the results after the 15 hours set time in case anyone is
wagering. ; )
Thanks again! --Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
> plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole
> about 1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage
> disposal (hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a
> "plastic" case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water
> faucet is turned on
>
> You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
> ones! :)
>
> What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
Here's a laugh for you--I couldn't make this stuff up...
After 2 more applications of J-B Weld, the GD most definitely DOES NOT leak.
We gave it the big test today: the GB no longer works...
The unit had pretty poor reviews at Amazon.com (known for rusted blades and
cracked case, probably related).
http://www.amazon.com/InSinkErator-Badger-Food-Waste-Disposer/dp/B00004U9JP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1254182142&sr=8-1
Was thinking about upgrading too it's bigger cousin ("Evolution", #74028),
http://www.amazon.com/InSinkErator-Compact-Evolution-Household-Disposer/dp/B000G837TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1254182219&sr=1-1-spell
This choice offers the advantage of not needing to replace/reinstall the
parts which hold it up to the sink. But I would
consider other suggestions as this is for a second kitchen sink, which is
barely used at all, not even once a week. In that
light, $176 seems like a lot. My wife says we don't even need a GD
there...but at least the one that is there doesn't leak.
By the way, the man who was supposed to replace the hot water heater on
Friday, and again today, called today to say he was at the hospital with his
wife (heart issue). I was as sensitive as can be, but gee-whiz.... He's
supposed to come tomorrow.
I'm enjoying being a homeowner, though it's taking longer to clear the
garage floor than I expected. Maybe it will make me feel better if I go buy
a few clamps?
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Think about glue ups from 2by? (1-1/2" thick) stock at least 8-10
>> maybe 12 wide. (fewer defects to cut out).
> Another beginners question: Why might I expect few defects on wider
> boards (intuitively, it seems like it would be easier to choose narrower
> boards with fewer defects)? Is it because the wider boards
> are necessarily cut from a deeper part of the log?
Wider boards are prone to lots of problems. Defects can be many or few,
depending on the grade. The less defects, the more you pay. Besides
that, wide boards are prone to more cupping/warping unless you get high
quality quarter sawn lumber, which is really costly. Generally, your
best bet is 6" width lumber. It is the cheapest, I guess because there
is more of it, and more by grade than wider dimensions. In other words,
a board foot of 2x6 is cheaper than a board foot of 2x12, in the same
wood and same grade. Fortunately, you are generally better off using
2x6 material any way. Even at the same price, you are better off gluing
up 4 or 5 2x6's for a top than a couple of 2x12's.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
Jack Stein wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>>> Think about glue ups from 2by? (1-1/2" thick) stock at least 8-10
>>> maybe 12 wide. (fewer defects to cut out).
>
>> Another beginners question: Why might I expect few defects on wider
>> boards (intuitively, it seems like it would be easier to choose
>> narrower boards with fewer defects)? Is it because the wider boards
>> are necessarily cut from a deeper part of the log?
>
> Wider boards are prone to lots of problems. Defects can be many or few,
> depending on the grade. The less defects, the more you pay. Besides
> that, wide boards are prone to more cupping/warping unless you get high
> quality quarter sawn lumber, which is really costly. Generally, your
> best bet is 6" width lumber. It is the cheapest, I guess because there
> is more of it, and more by grade than wider dimensions. In other words,
> a board foot of 2x6 is cheaper than a board foot of 2x12, in the same
> wood and same grade. Fortunately, you are generally better off using
> 2x6 material any way. Even at the same price, you are better off gluing
> up 4 or 5 2x6's for a top than a couple of 2x12's.
>
I was thinking of ripping them into 2.5 or 3" boards, then flipping the
alternate ones (so that all the grain all runs in the same direction and
gluing them with that configuration. Does that seem like a good strategy?
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Jack Stein wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>>>> Think about glue ups from 2by? (1-1/2" thick) stock at least 8-10
>>>> maybe 12 wide. (fewer defects to cut out).
>>
>>> Another beginners question: Why might I expect few defects on wider
>>> boards (intuitively, it seems like it would be easier to choose
>>> narrower boards with fewer defects)? Is it because the wider boards
>>> are necessarily cut from a deeper part of the log?
>>
>> Wider boards are prone to lots of problems. Defects can be many or
>> few, depending on the grade. The less defects, the more you pay.
>> Besides that, wide boards are prone to more cupping/warping unless you
>> get high quality quarter sawn lumber, which is really costly.
>> Generally, your best bet is 6" width lumber. It is the cheapest, I
>> guess because there is more of it, and more by grade than wider
>> dimensions. In other words, a board foot of 2x6 is cheaper than a
>> board foot of 2x12, in the same wood and same grade. Fortunately, you
>> are generally better off using 2x6 material any way. Even at the same
>> price, you are better off gluing up 4 or 5 2x6's for a top than a
>> couple of 2x12's.
> I was thinking of ripping them into 2.5 or 3" boards, then flipping the
> alternate ones (so that all the grain all runs in the same direction and
> gluing them with that configuration. Does that seem like a good strategy?
If you are gluing up a top, pay close attention to the end grain. If
it's smiling at you, you will likely have trouble with cupping. Plenty
tell you to alternate the smile up and down on every other board, but
this doesn't work either. Best is to look for end grain that is
straight up and down (quarter sawn) or slanted, but not semi-circular.
You can find pieces like this in lumber piles if you look hard enough,
or you can pay through the nose to buy it already separated out. Quarter
sawn and rift cut pieces are in all regularly milled logs, but only a
few in each log, unless the mill is specifically turning the logs for
that purpose, which you pay for. For a work bench, I personally
wouldn't worry too much about it, for a fancy desk, I might look harder
for quarter sawn lumber. Cutting it into smaller widths should also help.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
"Brad Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Would YOU have bought the house with a patch on the garbage disposal?
Sure, it is cosmetic, not structural. Even if it was broken, I'n not going
to walk away from a $300,000 house for a $150 disposal replacement.
>
>
> By the way, if hitting the side with a pan (and what was a pan doing
> under the sink?) was enough to put a hole in the GD, the plastic may be
> getting weak with age and be ready for a replacement anyway.
Take a look at one and see how it is built.
http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/category/132/
You can break away the plastic outer shell and have a perfectly working
disposal.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:29:17 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Bill" wrote:
>
>> I've got the receipt: Made by A.O. Smith, gas, 76 gallons, 6 years
>> old --$145 (seems awfully cheap).
>
>It's called tank replacement time.
>
>If the budget can handle the inital investment, take a look at
>tankless hot water system.
>
>Higher inital cost, but significantly lower operating costs resulting
>in lower total cost of ownership.
>
What about the $100 yearly maintenance charge for "descaling?" I
almost got a tankless, but we have frequent power outtages. Our gas
water heater is not dependant on electricity to run, but don't all
natural gas tankless heaters need electricty?
When I ran the numbers the tankless cost more in the long run. If you
are limited on space, then it makes sense. There is a LOT to go wrong
with tankless heaters.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 22:05:38 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Brad Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message > Would YOU have
>bought the house with a patch on the garbage disposal?
>>
>> Plan on any patch to be temporary. When you go to sell the house, you
>> won't want the patched GD killing the deal.
>
>> Brad
>
>
>I bought the house even though the garage needed approximately $2000 worth
>of cleanup (by doing the work myself, I think I can clean it nicely for
>about 1/4 of that)! "We" really liked the house and "likeable" ones in our
>price range are scarce in our neck of the woods. Of course, when I first
>looked at the grimey floor, I thought maybe $300--but there was a
>(fluid-leaking) boat, and ox-acetylene welding equiptment, etc. in the
>garage in the way the day I saw the house and made an offer.
>
>The good news is the J-B Weld has been applied. Following Lew's advice, I
>roughed it up with some 80 grit first and cleaned the surface with 99%
>rubbing alcohol (it took off plenty of blue paint or plastic). I had to
>apply the stuff by reaching around where I couldn't see (used HF blue
>nitrile gloves)...the first batch seemed like it sank into the
>hole--immediately applied a second batch and it left more of a patch. It
>looked pretty good via a flashlight and my wifes mirror (my error not to
>have borrowed that before I applied the stuff)! There is a 15 hour set
>time, so I'll know more tomorrow. Coincidently, our hot water heater broke
>yesterday too..but somehow that doesn't bother me as much... Thanks again
>to everyone who helped me with this problem!
>
>Bill
>
The water heater is more of an issue. I took a few cold showers--not
too bad until the cold water trickles down your back! Have your wife
stand on a step ladder with a watering can full of stove-heated water
until you have it replaced. Household things seem to break at the
same time.
:(
On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:21:41 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>My sweetheart wife, who I am trying to teach respect for things like
>plumbing, most evidently allowed a pan to knock a crescent shaped hole about
>1/6 as large as a dime in a dark side of our electric garbage disposal
>(hopefully, there's not a crack I can't see). The disposal has a "plastic"
>case. Now, of course, comes through the hole when the water faucet is
>turned on
>
>You folks are the most "handy" folks I know--in fact, practically the only
>ones! :)
>
>What is a good way to repair this? Patch? Epoxy?
>
>Thank you,
>Bill
>
I take back my recommendation of "Bondo" if there is potential for a
leak. If you try an epoxy and/or it leaks, replace the disposal.
It's a good idea to put one of these inexpensive water alarms under
there
http://tinyurl.com/ya9os9f