Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have
a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of
those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and
replacing it.
Thanks,
Jim
jtpr wrote:
> Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
> sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
> without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have
> a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of
> those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and
> replacing it.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this
might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be
that they aren't painted...
Here is what it looks like:
http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/gallery/1900582/1/95872232
-Jim
Jesse R Strawbridge wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
> > "Jesse R Strawbridge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> >>Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a
> >>router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part
> >>of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching
> >>veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the
> >>detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a
> >>sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should
> >>work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on
> >>it. In either case, tape the glass just in case.
> >
> >
> > This was the first approach that occured to me also. I think this is what
> > I'd do.
> >
> >
> >>On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install
> >> a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime,
> >>and paint.
> >>
> >
> >
> > That's a lot of work. I'd just put up a new piece of brick molding.
> >
> If the rotted piece isn't treated (stabilized) or replaced, it will just
> get worse (unfortunately I know from experience). It is not that much
> work. You could do the cutting with a Sawzall or a jigsaw but it occurs
> to me that a rotary saw (which I don't own) would work very well. A
> little chisel work would be needed to finish the lap joint.
>
> Jess.S
Thanks for all the response's, now I have some ideas. I really like
the veneer approach to the sliders, I need to check my local lumber
yard for some.
-Jim
jtpr wrote:
> Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
> sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
> without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have
> a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of
> those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and
> replacing it.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
I'd get a termite inspection first.
jtpr (in [email protected]) said:
| Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
| sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
| without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I
| have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or
| not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the
| wood and replacing it.
Jim...
The answer depends a lot on your skills and whether it's a painted
door. Swingman (one of the regulars here) did a door repair job for a
neighbor a while back that may offer some encouragement to rebuild the
damaged section.
The doors weren't sliders; but I think you might benefit from seeing
the photos on his web site - go to
http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects9.htm and scroll down about 1/3 of
the page. A Google group search for door rot will provide access to
the discussion that took place here.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Jesse R Strawbridge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a
>>router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part
>>of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching
>>veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the
>>detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a
>>sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should
>>work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on
>>it. In either case, tape the glass just in case.
>
>
> This was the first approach that occured to me also. I think this is what
> I'd do.
>
>
>>On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install
>> a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime,
>>and paint.
>>
>
>
> That's a lot of work. I'd just put up a new piece of brick molding.
>
If the rotted piece isn't treated (stabilized) or replaced, it will just
get worse (unfortunately I know from experience). It is not that much
work. You could do the cutting with a Sawzall or a jigsaw but it occurs
to me that a rotary saw (which I don't own) would work very well. A
little chisel work would be needed to finish the lap joint.
Jess.S
Jesse R Strawbridge wrote:
> jtpr wrote:
>
>> jtpr wrote:
>>
>>> Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
>>> sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
>>> without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have
>>> a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of
>>> those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and
>>> replacing it.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jim
>>
>>
>>
>> Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this
>> might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be
>> that they aren't painted...
>>
>> Here is what it looks like:
>>
>> http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/gallery/1900582/1/95872232
>>
>>
>> -Jim
>>
> Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a
> router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part
> of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching
> veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the
> detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a
> sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should
> work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on
> it. In either case, tape the glass just in case.
>
> On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install
> a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime,
> and paint.
>
> Jess.S
PS
I didn't respond properly to your question about filler on the rot. It
doesn't look to me like you enough wood left there to use the filler
approach.
Jess.S
jtpr wrote:
> jtpr wrote:
>
>>Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
>>sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
>>without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have
>>a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of
>>those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and
>>replacing it.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Jim
>
>
> Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this
> might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be
> that they aren't painted...
>
> Here is what it looks like:
>
> http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/gallery/1900582/1/95872232
>
>
> -Jim
>
Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a
router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part
of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching
veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the
detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a
sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should
work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on
it. In either case, tape the glass just in case.
On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install
a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime,
and paint.
Jess.S
"Jesse R Strawbridge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a
> router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part
> of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching
> veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the
> detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a
> sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should
> work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on
> it. In either case, tape the glass just in case.
This was the first approach that occured to me also. I think this is what
I'd do.
>
> On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install
> a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime,
> and paint.
>
That's a lot of work. I'd just put up a new piece of brick molding.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
> sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
> without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have
> a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of
> those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and
> replacing it.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
Bondo, or other equivalent auto body filler/repair material, is relatively
inexpensive and works very well in repairing exterior wood damage without
replacing the wood, is waterproof, and can be painted over just like wood.
The more hardener you mix into the Bondo the faster it dries, so working
time can vary greatly depending on hom much you use.
jtpr wrote:
> Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this
> might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might
> be that they aren't painted...
Yes, that's the key. You will never be able to fill that and have it
look decent without painting over. Your only options are to
replace...either the entire piece(s) or by routing/sawing as
appropriate and fitting dutchmen or an overlay piece or pieces.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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jtpr wrote:
> Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
> sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this
> without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I
> have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or
> not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the
> wood and replacing it.
Wood flour and epoxy
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico