Hi all!
I've had my Jet 12" bandsaw about 6 months now and have been happy
with it. There's one thing though that I am unsure how to solve. On
3 occassions after tensioning, tracking and adjusting the blocks and
thrust bearings, then running the machine, after turning it off I've
noticed that the tire has started walking off the pulley. I've shut
the machine down, opened the top and seen the tire overhanging the
pulley by a good 1/2". Anybody have any idea why this might happen?
Over tensioning? Bad tire?
-Fezig-
On Aug 19, 7:50 pm, Fezig <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi all!
>
> I've had my Jet 12" bandsaw about 6 months now and have been happy
> with it. There's one thing though that I am unsure how to solve. On
> 3 occassions after tensioning, tracking and adjusting the blocks and
> thrust bearings, then running the machine, after turning it off I've
> noticed that the tire has started walking off the pulley. I've shut
> the machine down, opened the top and seen the tire overhanging the
> pulley by a good 1/2". Anybody have any idea why this might happen?
> Over tensioning? Bad tire?
>
> -Fezig-
Not sure of the root cause, but as the tires on my bandsaw got old,
they lost their stretching strength. The centrifugal force of the
spinning wheel would cause a visible gap between the tire and wheel on
the portion that has no contact with the blade. A new set of
polyurethane tires solved my problem.
DonkeyHody
"In theory, theory and practice are the same, but in practice they are
not."
On 20 Aug, 07:54, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:50:48 -0700, Fezig <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Hi all!
>
> >I've had my Jet 12" bandsaw about 6 months now and have been happy
> >with it. There's one thing though that I am unsure how to solve. On
> >3 occassions after tensioning, tracking and adjusting the blocks and
> >thrust bearings, then running the machine, after turning it off I've
> >noticed that the tire has started walking off the pulley. I've shut
> >the machine down, opened the top and seen the tire overhanging the
> >pulley by a good 1/2". Anybody have any idea why this might happen?
> >Over tensioning? Bad tire?
>
> >-Fezig-
>
> Band saw tires are designed to have a durometer reading that insures
> that they can stay on the wheel at the design RPM. If the chemistry
> of the rubber is a little off, they can lift and shift. Some tires
> are glued to the wheel, but most are not, by design. I would suspect
> the tires are defective and should be replaced. Warranty?
>
> Frank
I have the same problem with my Crapsman bandsaw. I've considered a
little rubber cement to hold the bottom tire in place, although buying
a new tire is probably a better idea. Actually, buying a new *bandsaw*
is probably the best idea.
Let's see...Bandsaw or Windows? Windows or Bandsaw? Uh, what was that,
honey? You want to help me measure the windows? Uh, OK, good idea.
>
> Let's see...Bandsaw or Windows? Windows or Bandsaw? Uh, what was that,
> honey? You want to help me measure the windows? Uh, OK, good idea.
Speaking of windows... I had my contractor neighbor replace my old
aluminium windows with new vinyl ones, and in the process I asked him
to remove the poorly-installed interior liners. He was supposed to
replace those and add trim, too, but I have found out why my other
neighbors only used him once. Like just about every independent
contractor I've heard about, he doesn't answer his phone and he
doesn't call back. I finally got fed up and decided that I could do
it myself.
So, I bought myself and brand spanking-new Bosch 4410L compound
sliding miter saw. Spendy, but in two nights I've built three
liners. Who knows? I might just be able to get this job finished
before Christmas! Also, I bet I save the cost of the saw two or three
times over based on his hourly charge.
On Aug 23, 5:32 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> > Let's see...Bandsaw or Windows? Windows or Bandsaw? Uh, what was that,
> > honey? You want to help me measure the windows? Uh, OK, good idea.
>
> Speaking of windows... I had my contractor neighbor replace my old
> aluminium windows with new vinyl ones, and in the process I asked him
> to remove the poorly-installed interior liners. He was supposed to
> replace those and add trim, too, but I have found out why my other
> neighbors only used him once. Like just about every independent
> contractor I've heard about, he doesn't answer his phone and he
> doesn't call back. I finally got fed up and decided that I could do
> it myself.
>
> So, I bought myself and brand spanking-new Bosch 4410L compound
> sliding miter saw. Spendy, but in two nights I've built three
> liners. Who knows? I might just be able to get this job finished
> before Christmas! Also, I bet I save the cost of the saw two or three
> times over based on his hourly charge.
What is this "interior liner" you speak of?
>
> What is this "interior liner" you speak of?
My neighbor calls it the liner and casing. I believe most people call
the "liner" the jamb and sill, but in all the references I've looked
up on the Intertubes, a jamb is for hung windows (i.e., sliding
windows with sash weights). The casing is the trim pieces on the
interior walls. I don't know the correct terminology, I'm just using
the words he used.
So far, based on his hourly rate I've saved at least a third of the
saw cost.
1-800-274-6846 Jet phone number for parts
bill
"racing John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> don't Jet have a number to call, isn't it under warranty? If its out of
> warranty then go by a shop that sells rubber and hose and tell them and
> get a good rubber adhesive
>
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:50:48 -0700, Fezig <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Hi all!
> >
> >I've had my Jet 12" bandsaw about 6 months now and have been happy
> >with it. There's one thing though that I am unsure how to solve. On
> >3 occassions after tensioning, tracking and adjusting the blocks and
> >thrust bearings, then running the machine, after turning it off I've
> >noticed that the tire has started walking off the pulley. I've shut
> >the machine down, opened the top and seen the tire overhanging the
> >pulley by a good 1/2". Anybody have any idea why this might happen?
> >Over tensioning? Bad tire?
> >
> >-Fezig-
>
> Band saw tires are designed to have a durometer reading that insures
> that they can stay on the wheel at the design RPM. If the chemistry
> of the rubber is a little off, they can lift and shift. Some tires
> are glued to the wheel, but most are not, by design. I would suspect
> the tires are defective and should be replaced. Warranty?
>
> Frank
Called Jet today. They agreed it was probably a bad tire and are shipping
me another one.
-Fezig-
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:50:48 -0700, Fezig <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi all!
>
>I've had my Jet 12" bandsaw about 6 months now and have been happy
>with it. There's one thing though that I am unsure how to solve. On
>3 occassions after tensioning, tracking and adjusting the blocks and
>thrust bearings, then running the machine, after turning it off I've
>noticed that the tire has started walking off the pulley. I've shut
>the machine down, opened the top and seen the tire overhanging the
>pulley by a good 1/2". Anybody have any idea why this might happen?
>Over tensioning? Bad tire?
>
>-Fezig-
Band saw tires are designed to have a durometer reading that insures
that they can stay on the wheel at the design RPM. If the chemistry
of the rubber is a little off, they can lift and shift. Some tires
are glued to the wheel, but most are not, by design. I would suspect
the tires are defective and should be replaced. Warranty?
Frank