I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
The brands I'm looking at are:
- Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
- Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
- CMT (13 bit set $250)
- Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
- Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
various bits will give me great practice with the router.
Thanks!
Jack
Hello,
My advise is the oposit!
By a set (preferably a cheap 50 peices 1/2 shank on ebay for $25 or $30)
start using it, you will see which bits you use all the time (1/4 straight
flute, trim bit for example) and buy a good one of these ($5 special at
woodcraft) and you are in business...
cheap OK bits for your once is a while jobs, good bits for your everyday
use.
cyrille
"Charles Krug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> ()
> wrote on Monday 15 August 2005 04:43 pm:
>
>> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
>> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
>> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>>
>> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
>> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
>> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
> Don't buy a set.
>
> I looked at several sets and saw the common ground, then bought
> individual pieces from the ones I figured I'd use, one each from several
> manufacturers.
>
> My impressions:
>
> 1. I've no preference among the quality manufacturers. If I need X,
> I'll choose whoever has the best special this month from the several
> brands I have. Woodcraft's "Router Bit of the Month" has gotten my
> business several times.
>
> 2. If I need a straight bit for an abrasive task, buy whatever the Borg
> is selling this week and consider it disposable.
>
Jack,
I have used freud, whitside, amana not timberline, MLCS, Oldham. Old
Hickory.
The Old Hickory were just plain cheap, the MLCS is my mainstay - I use
a lot of them , their better brand Katana is a very very good bit IMHO.
The Regular amana and freud and whiteside are generally too expensive
and not superior enough. I don't do production work, so I don't need
the world's most rugged, bestest bit.
The timberline is the economy brand for amana.
Hope that helps.
In article <[email protected]>, at wrote:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
> However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
> they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
> 1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
> get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
> anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
> regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
> sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jack
Hi Jack,
I bought a bunch of MLCS bits about 10 years ago (not the set,
just the regular cove/round over/chamfer etc). As they dulled out,
I have been replacing them with Whitesides.
The Whitesides are superior, but the MLCS will give a hobbyist
great service for many years - at a good price.
I think that if I were "starting over", I would buy a 1/2 shank
MLCS "anniversary set" for around $160, then add to that when
and if there was a need.
Lou
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
Sneeeeip.
>
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than regular
> Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
As you well know bit sets will probably have bits you seldom or never use.
Having all different type bits for practice is over kill. If you master 2
or 3 different style bits, whether they be top bearing, bottom bearing, or
plunge, I strongly suggest you get 1/2" shank bits rather than 1/4" shank
bits.
As for a set, I suggest the one that gives you the most 1/2" shank bits for
the money. Most likely you will wear them out quickly. However replace the
worn out ones that you use the most with top quality bits. This way when in
a pinch you will always have a good assortment. Cheap bits most always will
get you through a project or 2.
In order of top quality to less IMHO , CMT, Whiteside, Amana, Lee Valley,
Freud.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> ()
wrote on Monday 15 August 2005 04:43 pm:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
Don't buy a set.
I looked at several sets and saw the common ground, then bought
individual pieces from the ones I figured I'd use, one each from several
manufacturers.
My impressions:
1. I've no preference among the quality manufacturers. If I need X,
I'll choose whoever has the best special this month from the several
brands I have. Woodcraft's "Router Bit of the Month" has gotten my
business several times.
2. If I need a straight bit for an abrasive task, buy whatever the Borg
is selling this week and consider it disposable.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Sneeeeip.
>>
>> The brands I'm looking at are:
>>
>> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
>> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
>> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
>> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
>> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
Actually I would not consider the above brands except for replacement bits
to replace bits from a CHEAPER assortment.
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but=
=20
> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping fo=
r=20
> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>=20
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to=20
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good=20
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>=20
> However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that=20
> they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch=20
> 1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I=
=20
> get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers=20
> anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>=20
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>=20
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>=20
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than=20
> regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>=20
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that=
=20
> sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the=20
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>=20
> Thanks!
>=20
> Jack
>=20
I have used these bits quite succesfully.
Imports -- but quality seems good.
http://www.kempston.ca/
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
What's the source of your insert tooling? I did a google search once and
turned up very little.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Buy a cheap set and replace the bits you wear out with really good
> stuff." That is an excellent suggestion. I bought a box of no-name green
> 1/2" shank misc. bits and they were cheap. No complaints.
> I found that I was using certain bits on a regular basis, and goodie for
> me, those shapes are available as insert bits.
> Insert tooling is made of harder, less porous carbide than conventional
> brazed carbide-tipped bits; it offers longer service between tool
> changes; no loss of cutting diameter from sharpening; and lower
> maintenance costs---replacement inserts usually cost less than the
> sharpening of brazed-tip bits.
> Same story with bigger (r=1/2" and bigger) round-over bits. The 'insert'
> style bits simply blow away the others in quality, economy and
> repeatability.
> Even my TruMatch(R) bits are 'insert' style.
> The fancy bits.... I buy whatever is around and medium price range.
Cyrille de Brébisson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> My advise is the oposit!
>
> By a set (preferably a cheap 50 peices 1/2 shank on ebay for $25 or $30)
> start using it, you will see which bits you use all the time (1/4 straight
> flute, trim bit for example) and buy a good one of these ($5 special at
> woodcraft) and you are in business...
>
> cheap OK bits for your once is a while jobs, good bits for your everyday
> use.
>
> cyrille
>
> "Charles Krug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> ()
>>wrote on Monday 15 August 2005 04:43 pm:
>>
>>
>>>I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
>>>my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
>>>some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>>>
>>>Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
>>>learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
>>>amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>>
>>Don't buy a set.
>>
>>I looked at several sets and saw the common ground, then bought
>>individual pieces from the ones I figured I'd use, one each from several
>>manufacturers.
>>
>>My impressions:
>>
>>1. I've no preference among the quality manufacturers. If I need X,
>>I'll choose whoever has the best special this month from the several
>>brands I have. Woodcraft's "Router Bit of the Month" has gotten my
>>business several times.
>>
>>2. If I need a straight bit for an abrasive task, buy whatever the Borg
>>is selling this week and consider it disposable.
>>
>
>
>
I bet you've never encountered a severely out of balance Viper bit, huh?
I've gotten bits so bad I've had to shut the router off immediately
and return the offending bit to the store for refund. Also, I've got a
set of Woodline bits that don't cut for crap, brand new. Hard to push
through the wood and they leave jagged edges. Inferior tools can be a
hazard as well as a nuisance.
Dave
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net
wrote:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions,
> but my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm
> hoping for some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
> However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
> they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
> 1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if
> I get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
> anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
> regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know
> that sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
1. I would *never* buy a set.
2. Make up your own set...
(a) 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 straight bits, plunging preferred. My favorite
3/4 is a Grizzly because it is down shear (but not plunging).
(b) 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 bead. Get them with removeable bearings so you
can use them as round over with a larger bearing.
(c) 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 cove (or core box since you intend to use a table)
Those nine bits can probably handle 95% of all the routing you'll ever
do.
3. Add other profiles as you need them. Avoid "enclosed" profiles
(like
bull nose) as *any* movement of the wood up or down will mess up the
cut. Try to select profiles that cut with the grain rather than across
it. Can't always do that but a re-orientation of the wood can do the
same; for example, any of the bead/cove bits are cutting across the
grain on the side of a board if the board is flat...stand it on the edge
and they are cutting with the grain.
4. Consider 1/4 shank in some cases, steel too. The smaller shank can
be good with, for example, a 1/4 straight bit to cut deeper than you
could if it were 1/2" shank or for using the shank as a bearing. HSS is
easy to sharpen and can be made a lot sharper easily than carbide.
Handy for cuts in solid wood. Ditto for HSS spirals but those aren't
easily sharpened.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Lou,
Which set are you talking about? I looked up MLCS anniversary set and
found the following set
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set25yr.html
of 15 bits for $40 (shipping free).
Are you talking about a different set?
Jack
loutent wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, at wrote:
>
>
>>I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
>>my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
>>some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>>
>>Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
>>learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
>>amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>>
>>However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
>>they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
>>1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
>>get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
>>anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>>
>>The brands I'm looking at are:
>>
>> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
>> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
>> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
>> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
>> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>>
>>Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
>>regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>>
>>SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
>>sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
>>various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Jack
>
>
> Hi Jack,
>
> I bought a bunch of MLCS bits about 10 years ago (not the set,
> just the regular cove/round over/chamfer etc). As they dulled out,
> I have been replacing them with Whitesides.
>
> The Whitesides are superior, but the MLCS will give a hobbyist
> great service for many years - at a good price.
>
> I think that if I were "starting over", I would buy a 1/2 shank
> MLCS "anniversary set" for around $160, then add to that when
> and if there was a need.
>
> Lou
Robatoy wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> WillR <[email protected]> when hitting the nail on the head=
=20
> when he suggested:
>=20
>=20
>>http://www.kempston.ca/
>=20
>=20
> Absolutely. Great selection, and fabulous warranty---->replacement.
> Prices are a bit steep for some of the basic profiles but the more=20
> complex bits are very nice indeed. I use a lot of them.
I get them at Home Hardware -- Cookstown. Is there a place with better=20
prices?
Mucho Dinero.... for all those bits I have now and I need more.
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
> However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
> they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
> 1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
> get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
> anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
> regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
> sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jack
>
those brands are fine. I suggest NOT buying sets UNLESS you plan on
using nearly every bit in the set.
AVOID Viper and Woodline bits like the plague. I've gotten only ONE
serviceable Viper bit out of 3 samples. Woodline bits, while cheap,
don't cut worth a damn (IMO). I know of one poster here who will argue
that point. If he lived nearby, I'd offer to show him a simple test in
my shop that demonstrates how UTTERLY pathetic the Woodline plywood bits
cut, compared to either a Bosch or CMT. Perhaps he has had better luck
with that brand because he's used a different type of their bit, or he
hasn't compared them directly to a quality bit. I happen to own
identical bits from several manufacturers and that allows me to assess
the relative merits of each bit under real world conditions.
Dave
In article <[email protected]>,
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
wrote:
[schnipperrrectomy]
>
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
> sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>
"Buy a cheap set and replace the bits you wear out with really good
stuff." That is an excellent suggestion. I bought a box of no-name green
1/2" shank misc. bits and they were cheap. No complaints.
I found that I was using certain bits on a regular basis, and goodie for
me, those shapes are available as insert bits.
Insert tooling is made of harder, less porous carbide than conventional
brazed carbide-tipped bits; it offers longer service between tool
changes; no loss of cutting diameter from sharpening; and lower
maintenance costs---replacement inserts usually cost less than the
sharpening of brazed-tip bits.
Same story with bigger (r=1/2" and bigger) round-over bits. The 'insert'
style bits simply blow away the others in quality, economy and
repeatability.
Even my TruMatch(R) bits are 'insert' style.
The fancy bits.... I buy whatever is around and medium price range.
In article <[email protected]>,
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> What's the source of your insert tooling? I did a google search once and
> turned up very little.
The CNC guys are into those. It is the repeatability they are after.
Adding that info in your searches will help.
For 1/2" shanks the selection is limited, but the fine folks at
carbide.com have some:
http://www.carbide.com/catalog/RBits-insert-start.cfm
Royce-Ayr here in Kanuckistan carries their own. They do have a US
distribution network. I have no experience dealing with them in the US
but here they're a great bunch. They will make me anything without some
of those stupid prices others quote me.
http://www.royceayr.com/P_Wood_IT.shtml
Morris might have some sources in in the States.
You will find that the standard flush trimming bits and straight bits
are not that expensive. On some of the rabbet bits you get to turn the
insert 3 more times, so it's like buying four bits. Keep that in mind
when pricing.
You will wonder why they aren't more popular... maybe because there
arent that many complex profiles..like raised panel stuff etc..
Also the minimum diameters are larger because they have to to have room
for the chipbreakers and screws and all that.
r
In article <[email protected]>,
David <[email protected]> wrote:
> AVOID Viper and Woodline bits like the plague.
The crappy bits are dangerous as well. I had a bearing (or two/3/4/) fly
off before.. NOT a pleasant experience.
In article <[email protected]>,
WillR <[email protected]> when hitting the nail on the head
when he suggested:
> http://www.kempston.ca/
Absolutely. Great selection, and fabulous warranty---->replacement.
Prices are a bit steep for some of the basic profiles but the more
complex bits are very nice indeed. I use a lot of them.
I bought bits as needed instead of sets and soon found out they
weren't being stored correctly and were lacking identification. I
built a shallow box with strips of wood with both 1/4" & 1/2" holes
for shanks with a shallow dovetailed groove for card stock with info
stuck in. Sliding lid keeps most sawdust out and it slides under the
benchtop just above where the router table is stored.
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 15:43:18 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
>they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
>1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
>get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
>anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
mywebaccts wrote:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions,
> but my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm
> hoping for some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
<snip>
SFWIW, until they prove they don't deserve it, CMT gets my business.
As far as kits are concerned, I avoid them.
Do buy such things as cove, rounding over or straight side bits in sets,
since they are such common bits.
After that, buy them for the task at hand.
When possible, buy 1/2" shanks.
YMMV
Lew
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 15:43:18 -0600, the opaque "mywebaccts (at)
PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> clearly wrote:
>I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
>my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
>some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
>Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
>learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
>amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
>However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
>they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
>1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
>get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
>anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
Get a $15 set from Ebay/Harbor Fright/Big Lots and figure out which
profiles you use the most. Replace those few with name-brand bits
(the cheapies actually aren't bad bits) like Whiteside and keep the
rest for play.
---=====---
After all else fails, read the instructions.
---=====---
Website Design and Update http://www.diversify.com
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> ()
wrote on Monday 15 August 2005 04:43 pm:
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
> However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
> they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
> 1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
> get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
> anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
> regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
> sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jack
Jack,
I bought a Grizzly set that got me started for about $60. After that, I
just bought the bits I needed. A lot of people say "don't buy sets", but
if you're just starting out, a set is a good way to see exactly what your
router is capable of.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
Leon wrote:
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Sneeeeip.
>
>>The brands I'm looking at are:
>>
>> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
>> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
>> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
>> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
>> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>>
>>Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than regular
>>Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>
>
> As you well know bit sets will probably have bits you seldom or never use.
> Having all different type bits for practice is over kill. If you master 2
> or 3 different style bits, whether they be top bearing, bottom bearing, or
> plunge, I strongly suggest you get 1/2" shank bits rather than 1/4" shank
> bits.
> As for a set, I suggest the one that gives you the most 1/2" shank bits for
> the money. Most likely you will wear them out quickly. However replace the
> worn out ones that you use the most with top quality bits. This way when in
> a pinch you will always have a good assortment. Cheap bits most always will
> get you through a project or 2.
> In order of top quality to less IMHO , CMT, Whiteside, Amana, Lee Valley,
> Freud.
>
>
I agree wholeheartedly on the 1/2" shanks (unless you need bits for a
trim router).
Dave
gadgetman wrote:
> Jack,
> I have used freud, whitside, amana not timberline, MLCS, Oldham. Old
> Hickory.
> Hope that helps.
>
me too, on the Timberline thing. that one got by me when I agreed with
the OP's list of brands.
OP: I can't agree with you on Timberline. I didn't realize you slipped
that one in. :)
Dave
I take a rather different approach, I will spend the money on bit's I know
I'll continue to use. But since there are so many variations out there I buy
the cheapest I can find just to play with if I like it, I buy a better brand
and put it in my collection. I couldn't give you an accurate ratings on
brands, just haven't been using them that long.
Don't look at price it isn't a good barometer.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> I did a quick review through the archive on router bit discussions, but
> my newsgroup service has many of them deleted already. So I'm hoping for
> some advice on which brand(s) to look at.
>
> Okay - I'm a novice, but I plan on working a lot in the woodshop to
> learn how to do quality routing. I'm not adverse to spending a good
> amount of money if I'm getting what I pay for.
>
> However, don't get me wrong. I'm not rich and I don't expect that
> they'll be singing songs about my routing skills. I'm buying a Bosch
> 1617EVS and will be setting it up in a router table. I figure that if I
> get good enough at this stuff, I'll end up owning several routers
> anyway, so I'm starting with table work.
>
> The brands I'm looking at are:
>
> - Whiteside (7 bit set $110)
> - Lee Valley (12 bit set $120)
> - CMT (13 bit set $250)
> - Freud (9 bit set $130 ... on sale)
> - Amana Timberline (12 bit set $60 ... on sale)
>
> Not sure what Amana Timberline is, but they're a LOT cheaper than
> regular Amana bits. I'm assuming you get what you pay for.
>
> SO .. the big question ... any suggestions on what to buy? I know that
> sets often leave you with a few bits you never use, but using the
> various bits will give me great practice with the router.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jack
>