This is probably a simple question, but I've been sanding a table top
for a couple of hours and I keep having to regress on sand paper (that
is, I keep finding scratches the current grit will not take and have
to return to a previous grit). I'm starting around 50 and going from
there. Can someone recommend a sequence that will help to alleviate
this roller coaster sanding job?
Thanks,
Jeb
I'm using both a belt sander and a finishing sander, I can't help but
wonder if a 100 grit on belt sander isn't coarser than a 100 grit on
the finishing sander. Is there any credibility to this thought?
50 seems pretty coarse to start off with on a 'finishing' job?
Any reason?
I usually start with 120 or even 160 depending on the wood and go from
there...
--
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Dean Bielanowski
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"Jeb Sawyer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is probably a simple question, but I've been sanding a table top
> for a couple of hours and I keep having to regress on sand paper (that
> is, I keep finding scratches the current grit will not take and have
> to return to a previous grit). I'm starting around 50 and going from
> there. Can someone recommend a sequence that will help to alleviate
> this roller coaster sanding job?
> Thanks,
> Jeb
>
> I'm using both a belt sander and a finishing sander, I can't help but
> wonder if a 100 grit on belt sander isn't coarser than a 100 grit on
> the finishing sander. Is there any credibility to this thought?
On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 15:56:02 +1000, "Woody" <[email protected]>Crawled
out of the shop and said. . .:
>50 seems pretty coarse to start off with on a 'finishing' job?
>Any reason?
>
>I usually start with 120 or even 160 depending on the wood and go from
>there...
DFTT
Belt sanders heat and harden the surface of the wood. Also, by their
design, they lay all uncut fibers down in the same direction. Use of a
cabinet scraper or plane is best, though scrapers don't work well on stringy
softer woods, followed by sanding with a Random Orbital Sander or an
orbital.
For now, I would recommend you break the surface hardening by wiping with a
damp rag. Allow to dry, then use your finishing sander.
See what I told you about pressing the uncut fibers down?
"Jeb Sawyer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is probably a simple question, but I've been sanding a table top
> for a couple of hours and I keep having to regress on sand paper (that
> is, I keep finding scratches the current grit will not take and have
> to return to a previous grit). I'm starting around 50 and going from
> there. Can someone recommend a sequence that will help to alleviate
> this roller coaster sanding job?
> Thanks,
> Jeb
>
> I'm using both a belt sander and a finishing sander, I can't help but
> wonder if a 100 grit on belt sander isn't coarser than a 100 grit on
> the finishing sander. Is there any credibility to this thought?
I don't know about the rest of you, but I usually try to start with
just inside the station, then move up to the lift/launch, and then
tackle the rest afterward. Only takes a few days on a smaller one, but
up to a week on the really big ones. Slap on a fresh coat of paint,
and the rails are usually good to go for another season.
Oh...wait a minute! This is the woodworking newsgroup, not
rec.roller-coaster! My bad :)
Chris Mooney
On 22 Jul 2003 22:50:11 -0700, [email protected] (Jeb Sawyer)
wrote:
>This is probably a simple question, but I've been sanding a table top
>for a couple of hours and I keep having to regress on sand paper (that
>is, I keep finding scratches the current grit will not take and have
>to return to a previous grit). I'm starting around 50 and going from
>there. Can someone recommend a sequence that will help to alleviate
>this roller coaster sanding job?
>Thanks,
>Jeb
>
>I'm using both a belt sander and a finishing sander, I can't help but
>wonder if a 100 grit on belt sander isn't coarser than a 100 grit on
>the finishing sander. Is there any credibility to this thought?
"Jeb Sawyer" writes:
> This is probably a simple question, but I've been sanding a table top
> for a couple of hours and I keep having to regress on sand paper (that
> is, I keep finding scratches the current grit will not take and have
> to return to a previous grit).
<snip>
You will keep chasing your tail until hell freezes over.
Find a commercial sander in your area and have them run it thru their 48"
wide sander.
$20-$30 and it will be flat, smooth and ready for finishing.
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures