Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a toy
passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
Tonight I took some walnut, plained it, resawed it, plained it again to
the right thickness, joined it, cut the walnut, not necessarily in any
particular order, but I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
1/4" rectangles. I was happy with the way the triangles turned out and
the amount of time it took to make them. One last thing for the night.
Just round over the top edges. 1/4" roundover bit in the router table,
voila. Wood isn't thick enough to roll along the bearing thingie of the
router bit, so it keeps kicking out. I tried a 1/8" bit and that works,
but the appearance is less than desirable. A 3/8" bit was a little
better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate for
them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
they are used.
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a
toy
> passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
> over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
Radi-plane. https://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com/temp/p20084.html
Hmmm... I often wondered if the bearings came off, but never looked as I
didn't have a need before. I'll have to take a look. I thought the
woodcraft brand weren't removable, but that seems crazy doesn't it?
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 08:23:57 -0400, Thomas Mitchell
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>A slot for the bearing would work. Likely the only way too. I took a
>>brief look at a Freud router bit page and all the round over bits I
>>found had a bearing on them.
>
>
> You can take the bearing off. If you have a fence, you don't need it
> anyway. If I'm using a roundover as a moulding bit, and I want to
> leave a quirk, then this is an easy way to make it cut a little
> deeper.
>
Have you tried backing up the piece with some scrap? That may help in
avoiding blowing out the endgrain when doing the roundover... (just a
thought)
-adb
Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Yep. The grain broke out fairly bad with the two test pieces that I did
> manage to get rounded over with the 3/8" bit. Hopefully the straight end
> top will look nice enough.
>
> A slot for the bearing would work. Likely the only way too. I took a
> brief look at a Freud router bit page and all the round over bits I
> found had a bearing on them.
>
> Andy Dingley wrote:
> > On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 06:56:39 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>The zero clearane fence is a good idea. I might have thought of it
> >>except that the bit has a bearing on the top which wouldn't cut out the
> >>fence.
> >
> >
> > You saw a slot for the bearing first.
> >
> >
> > I'm also not that keen on the idea of routing the end-grain ends.
> > Maybe if you clamped them all into a jig - otherwise I'd expect
> > trouble with the grain breaking out.
> >
Yep. Ad Hoc fence cut with a notch to fit the bearing, then centered,
clamped on one end, and brought gently into the rotating bit so there is
virtually no gap on either side. Help the pieces past the bit by using a
push fixture rabbetted to a depth a touch less than the thickness of the
piece, at the proper angle, and big enough or fitted with a handle to keep
your fingers at a distance.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Use the fence to guide the wood instead of the pilot bearing.
>
>
> "Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a toy
> > passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
> > over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
> >
> > Tonight I took some walnut, plained it, resawed it, plained it again to
> > the right thickness, joined it, cut the walnut, not necessarily in any
> > particular order, but I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
> > 1/4" rectangles. I was happy with the way the triangles turned out and
> > the amount of time it took to make them. One last thing for the night.
> > Just round over the top edges. 1/4" roundover bit in the router table,
> > voila. Wood isn't thick enough to roll along the bearing thingie of the
> > router bit, so it keeps kicking out. I tried a 1/8" bit and that works,
> > but the appearance is less than desirable. A 3/8" bit was a little
> > better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
> > rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate for
> > them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
> > they are used.
> >
>
>
On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 20:48:51 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a toy
>passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
>over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
>
>Tonight I took some walnut, plained it, resawed it, plained it again to
>the right thickness, joined it, cut the walnut, not necessarily in any
>particular order, but I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
>1/4" rectangles. I was happy with the way the triangles turned out and
>the amount of time it took to make them. One last thing for the night.
>Just round over the top edges. 1/4" roundover bit in the router table,
>voila. Wood isn't thick enough to roll along the bearing thingie of the
>router bit, so it keeps kicking out. I tried a 1/8" bit and that works,
>but the appearance is less than desirable. A 3/8" bit was a little
>better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
>rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate for
>them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
>they are used.
How about a hot glue gun? Glue the pieces with hot melt glue to a larger
board. Route, then pop them off the board. Personally, the image of
routing wood pieces that size gives me the shakes.
You could cut a mortise into a 3/4 thick board that the parts would fit in
and then run it on the router table.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yep. Ad Hoc fence cut with a notch to fit the bearing, then centered,
> clamped on one end, and brought gently into the rotating bit so there is
> virtually no gap on either side. Help the pieces past the bit by using a
> push fixture rabbetted to a depth a touch less than the thickness of the
> piece, at the proper angle, and big enough or fitted with a handle to keep
> your fingers at a distance.
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Use the fence to guide the wood instead of the pilot bearing.
> >
> >
> > "Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a
toy
> > > passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
> > > over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
> > >
> > > Tonight I took some walnut, plained it, resawed it, plained it again
to
> > > the right thickness, joined it, cut the walnut, not necessarily in any
> > > particular order, but I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
> > > 1/4" rectangles. I was happy with the way the triangles turned out and
> > > the amount of time it took to make them. One last thing for the night.
> > > Just round over the top edges. 1/4" roundover bit in the router table,
> > > voila. Wood isn't thick enough to roll along the bearing thingie of
the
> > > router bit, so it keeps kicking out. I tried a 1/8" bit and that
works,
> > > but the appearance is less than desirable. A 3/8" bit was a little
> > > better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
> > > rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate
for
> > > them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
> > > they are used.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> Does anyone know of a way to round these
> rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them?
>
Just use the fence on the router table. . .First set up the fence to
align with the bearing using a nice straight piece of stock, then clamp
the fence down and run the project thru.
Kim
"Igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 20:48:51 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
> >better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
> >rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate for
> >them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
> >they are used.
If you have a Dremel on hand, I believe there's smaller round over bits that
you can use for it. In effect, a small router for small pieces.
They sound kind of small to work with.
Here are my suggestions:
Attach them to something thicker when you run the router. (this ould be a
pain)
Sand them.
Use a plane.(the end grain would be tough but you could plane the sides and
sand the ends)
-Jack
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a toy
> passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
> over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
>
> Tonight I took some walnut, plained it, resawed it, plained it again to
> the right thickness, joined it, cut the walnut, not necessarily in any
> particular order, but I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
> 1/4" rectangles. I was happy with the way the triangles turned out and
> the amount of time it took to make them. One last thing for the night.
> Just round over the top edges. 1/4" roundover bit in the router table,
> voila. Wood isn't thick enough to roll along the bearing thingie of the
> router bit, so it keeps kicking out. I tried a 1/8" bit and that works,
> but the appearance is less than desirable. A 3/8" bit was a little
> better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
> rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate for
> them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
> they are used.
>
On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 06:56:39 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The zero clearane fence is a good idea. I might have thought of it
>except that the bit has a bearing on the top which wouldn't cut out the
>fence.
You saw a slot for the bearing first.
I'm also not that keen on the idea of routing the end-grain ends.
Maybe if you clamped them all into a jig - otherwise I'd expect
trouble with the grain breaking out.
Forget the bearing, use the fence.
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here's an example of my ignorance due to inexperience. I designed a toy
> passenger train car to have a top of walnut that's 1/4" thick rounded
> over with a 1/4" round over bit. Looks very nice on paper.
>
> Tonight I took some walnut, plained it, resawed it, plained it again to
> the right thickness, joined it, cut the walnut, not necessarily in any
> particular order, but I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
> 1/4" rectangles. I was happy with the way the triangles turned out and
> the amount of time it took to make them. One last thing for the night.
> Just round over the top edges. 1/4" roundover bit in the router table,
> voila. Wood isn't thick enough to roll along the bearing thingie of the
> router bit, so it keeps kicking out. I tried a 1/8" bit and that works,
> but the appearance is less than desirable. A 3/8" bit was a little
> better but not THE look. Does anyone know of a way to round these
> rectangles over and save the 1.5 hours I spent making them? I'd hate for
> them to end up being part of the wife's craft supplies, but as long as
> they are used.
>
On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 08:23:57 -0400, Thomas Mitchell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A slot for the bearing would work. Likely the only way too. I took a
>brief look at a Freud router bit page and all the round over bits I
>found had a bearing on them.
You can take the bearing off. If you have a fence, you don't need it
anyway. If I'm using a roundover as a moulding bit, and I want to
leave a quirk, then this is an easy way to make it cut a little
deeper.
On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 20:48:51 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I came out with about 30 nice 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" x
>1/4" rectangles.
Running those through a router table is going to cost you fingers !
I'd use some really coarse (40 grit) sandpaper wrapped _tightly_
around a block.Walnut is pretty soft and it won't take that long.
Alternatively a block plane (low angle, for preference) but even that
usually manages to slice a fingernail.
If you must do it on a router table, you need a zero-clearance false
fence made especially for that cutter (feed the cutter into it to cut
the shape). Even then it's a little hazardous, so you should make a
rectangle-shaped push block to hold each piece firmly and keep your
fingers away.
With hindsight of course, you make stock like this by shaping a long
length and then crosscutting it down.