Stuck motor shaft key on Delta CS... any ideas?

Pet Quality wrote:
>Wow, this looks like an awfully good option - I'm a little skeptical
>of the price since Delta wants around $250 (or more) for their
>standard replacement. $70 seems almost too good to be true. But if
>it's a direct replacement for the CS motor it'd be absolutely
>perfect...


Actually, it's not a direct replacement. It's a C-face
motor and it don't have no way for you to attach it to your
saw. No really. It don't.

I don't think that should stop you from buying it. You
could maybe destroy it like you did the perfectly good motor
you had after not taking the very advice (advise in
wreck.speak) you asked for and got here with that little
melt down.

I'll tell you what though. I have some perfectly shitty
motors here that I could send you and you could beat the
crapsnot out of those and have the eBayer send the C-frame
directly to me. That way nothing of any value will be
harmed.

Deal?

UA100

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
<snip>
> The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
> appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
> Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
> there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
> place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> PQ

First as Leon queried, do you really need to take it out?

If you do, one method I have used, not elegant and will probably need a new
key, grip the key real tight with a vise grip then you can possibly use a
lever under one of the jaws of the grip, or you can tap on it.

Bernard R

Are you sure there is only one setscrew? That means either, a second hole
in the pulley, or a second screw under the one you removed, or maybe both.

--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop


"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
> Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
> belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
> To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
> motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
> very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
> spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
> The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
> appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
> Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
> there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
> place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> PQ

I'm certain that you are mistaken about removing the key first. Yes, the
setscrew will be on the key, but the key does not hold the pulley in
position axially, only torsionally. Pull the pulley with a puller (hmm, say
that 5 times fast). The key will then pull right out, although you can just
reuse it with the new pulley. Incidentally, they are hard to get off for a
good reason.

--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop


"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mark Hopkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Heat it with a torch and then rub a candle on it while still hot. The
wax
> > will get right in there and free up the key...
>
> Thank you all for the suggestions! To answer a couple of previous
> questions, I'm pretty confident it's the only set screw, because I
> have the original manual for the CS and for installation it only
> refers to tightening one. I can see the top of the key in the hole
> left by removing the one set screw, so there really isn't anywhere
> else for another to go. Plus, the replacement pully has only one,
> though admittedly that's not necessarily relevant.
>
> As far as I know I need to remove the key. The pulley certainly isn't
> budging with the key in place, and to my knowledge it's the pressure
> of the key against the motor shaft that keeps the pulley on there.
>
> I'll give some of these suggestions a try - thanks again!
>
> PQ

Baldor is certainly comparable in quality, if not better. Another highly
respected brand is Leeson. Make sure you buy the same type (TEFC or
whatever it is) with the same mounting frame (56 or whatever).

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Pet Quality) wrote in message news:
>
> Now that I've calmed down a little (but only a little), does anyone
> have a suggestion on what to use for a replacement motor on a Delta
> CS? The lowest price I see on the 'net is about $250 shipped for the
> Delta part (62-044). Something tells me I can do better than that, by
> going with some other, comparable make or model.
>
> Any suggestions? (please don't say 'take the motor to your delta
> dealer and have it fixed', I'm fairly certain at this point that this
> would not be economically viable.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> PQ

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have you tried breaking the pulley off yet?
>
>

It sounds like it may be too late!
Greg

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
> > It sounds like it may be too late!
>
> Yeah, it's too late. I really lost it after everything I tried ended
> up making the problem worse. The pulley got totally stuck on there (I
> thought it was on good before, but I managed to get in on even better
> - how ironic). After injuring myself a couple of times while trying to
> un-stick the pulley I more or less smashed the motor with the steel
> bar I'd been using to try to pry the pulley off. I plead temporary
> insanity (and I'm feeling much better now, ha).
>
> So for better or for worse, it's on to a replacement motor at this
> point.
>
> PQ

You just discovered the value of a pulley puller.
Greg

So, you're saying you tried a sheave puller? Really? I don't mean to sound
doubtful (okay, yea I do), but I have never seen one that wasn't a total
rusted mess that could not be pulled. If you tried the puller and it did
not work, then you have nothing to be embarrassed about. The would be known
as one stuck MF'r.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Actually, I did take the advice I got here. I employed every technique
> suggested to me, except the dripping-of-wax onto the shaft (just
> didn't get around to that one).
>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20789&item=4302197869&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

I've gotten one of these for a cyclone I'm building. Haven't put it
to use yet but it came in it's original packaging with all the
parts/manuals and I expect it to work ok. Just another option.
Cheers,
cc

"Mark Hopkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Heat it with a torch and then rub a candle on it while still hot. The wax
> will get right in there and free up the key...

Thank you all for the suggestions! To answer a couple of previous
questions, I'm pretty confident it's the only set screw, because I
have the original manual for the CS and for installation it only
refers to tightening one. I can see the top of the key in the hole
left by removing the one set screw, so there really isn't anywhere
else for another to go. Plus, the replacement pully has only one,
though admittedly that's not necessarily relevant.

As far as I know I need to remove the key. The pulley certainly isn't
budging with the key in place, and to my knowledge it's the pressure
of the key against the motor shaft that keeps the pulley on there.

I'll give some of these suggestions a try - thanks again!

PQ

[email protected] (mike) wrote in message news:> Is the pulley off yet? If so then hit with a large punch and hammer.
> Iheat the shaft with a
> heatgun or slightly with a torch. The key will tap out then.
> mike

I'll be trying the heating method tomorrow morning. I actually don't
have a good heat source, need to go to the Borg and get a torch.

I'll post results as soon as I have some...

PQ

[email protected] (Pet Quality) wrote in message news:
> I'll be trying the heating method tomorrow morning. I actually don't
> have a good heat source, need to go to the Borg and get a torch.

The nature of my request has changed. Even with a torch I have been
absolutely unable to get the key out or pulley off, and in fact
succeeded only in driving the pulley all the way to the back of the
motor shaft, at which point it became stuck completely on the shaft -
and after trying every method I could think of to make it budge even a
tiny bit, I lost my temper.

I'll spare you all the details, but suffice it to say that this motor
will not be enabling any more woodworking activities, ever. This has
turned out to be a very, very expensive "cheap and simple upgrade".
But frankly it's par for the course for me - every "mechanical"
project I get myself into ends up taking 10x as long as it should, and
costing 10x as much. So it's really no surprise to me to end up in
this situation.

Now that I've calmed down a little (but only a little), does anyone
have a suggestion on what to use for a replacement motor on a Delta
CS? The lowest price I see on the 'net is about $250 shipped for the
Delta part (62-044). Something tells me I can do better than that, by
going with some other, comparable make or model.

Any suggestions? (please don't say 'take the motor to your delta
dealer and have it fixed', I'm fairly certain at this point that this
would not be economically viable.)

Thanks,

PQ

"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
> It sounds like it may be too late!

Yeah, it's too late. I really lost it after everything I tried ended
up making the problem worse. The pulley got totally stuck on there (I
thought it was on good before, but I managed to get in on even better
- how ironic). After injuring myself a couple of times while trying to
un-stick the pulley I more or less smashed the motor with the steel
bar I'd been using to try to pry the pulley off. I plead temporary
insanity (and I'm feeling much better now, ha).

So for better or for worse, it's on to a replacement motor at this
point.

PQ

[email protected] (James Cubby Culbertson) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20789&item=4302197869&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
>
> I've gotten one of these for a cyclone I'm building. Haven't put it
> to use yet but it came in it's original packaging with all the
> parts/manuals and I expect it to work ok. Just another option.
> Cheers,
> cc

Wow, this looks like an awfully good option - I'm a little skeptical
of the price since Delta wants around $250 (or more) for their
standard replacement. $70 seems almost too good to be true. But if
it's a direct replacement for the CS motor it'd be absolutely
perfect...

PQ

Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
> Actually, it's not a direct replacement. It's a C-face
> motor and it don't have no way for you to attach it to your
> saw. No really. It don't.

Thank you for the feedback. You're correct. On closer inspection the
shafts are different diameters, among the various differences.

> I don't think that should stop you from buying it. You
> could maybe destroy it like you did the perfectly good motor
> you had after not taking the very advice (advise in
> wreck.speak) you asked for and got here with that little
> melt down.

Actually, I did take the advice I got here. I employed every technique
suggested to me, except the dripping-of-wax onto the shaft (just
didn't get around to that one).

I'm sure you've never lost your temper, so thanks also for what I
perceive to be the 'attitude'.

> I'll tell you what though. I have some perfectly shitty
> motors here that I could send you and you could beat the
> crapsnot out of those and have the eBayer send the C-frame
> directly to me. That way nothing of any value will be
> harmed.

Yuk yuk, you're a card.

PQ

"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
> Grizzly sells Leeson at a pretty good price. They also sell an import motor
> which I have purchased and been satisfied.

Thanks Bill. Looks like Grizzly's version of the motor is about $100
less than the Delta. I have other Grizzly gear that I'm happy with, so
this'll probably end up being the solution.

PQ

"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> thus spoke:

> Well, sorta been there done that too. My recommendation is to keep that
> sucker around for two reasons - a reminder of your costly stupidity and
> something to beat when the urge hits you.

Agreed, good advice :-)

And btw, nope, not married. I'm actually a very even-keeled person
99.99% of the time. There's something about a stubborn mechanical
problem that leads to both frustration and injury, that really pushes
my buttons. It's the reason I stopped working on my own car - just got
tired of cursing and throwing tools around when things went wrong
(which was often). Unfortunately, to be a woodworker (as I'm
discovering) means putting on a mechanic's hat from time to time. This
may come naturally to some folks, just not to me.

PQ

"Charles Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:> btw: 99.99% of the time means that for just over 52 minutes of the year, you
> go berserk.
>
> 99.999% means just over 5 minutes.
> 99.9999% means just under 1 minute.

Hm, yes okay you have me there. In the interest of accuracy, I must
correct myself and state that I'm very even keeled about 99.9999% of
the time. The motor incident ate up my berzerk allotment for the year
:-)

PQ

"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote:
> So, you're saying you tried a sheave puller? Really? I don't mean to sound
> doubtful (okay, yea I do), but I have never seen one that wasn't a total
> rusted mess that could not be pulled. If you tried the puller and it did
> not work, then you have nothing to be embarrassed about. The would be known
> as one stuck MF'r.

I stand corrected, though it's sort of a technicality. I should have
stated, "I tried everything that I'd seen suggested to me up to that
point". I didn't see the pulley-puller suggestion until after the
fact. So, no I didn't try that. I did try the various heating,
tapping, spraying, clamping (and so forth) ideas. I suppose that if
I'd let the project sit for another day or two, then re-read the
newsgroup, I might have seen that one then tried it.

PQ

[email protected] (Pet Quality) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi All,
>
> I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
> Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
> belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
> To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
> motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
> very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
> spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
> The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
> appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
> Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
> there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
> place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> PQ

Is the pulley off yet? If so then hit with a large punch and hammer.
If it breaks any hardware store carries them. If the pulley is still
on and penetrating sprays don't work, then heat the shaft with a
heatgun or slightly with a torch. The key will tap out then.
mike

[email protected] (Pet Quality) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] (mike) wrote in message news:> Is the pulley off yet? If so then hit with a large punch and hammer.
> > Iheat the shaft with a
> > heatgun or slightly with a torch. The key will tap out then.
> > mike
>
> I'll be trying the heating method tomorrow morning. I actually don't
> have a good heat source, need to go to the Borg and get a torch.
>
> I'll post results as soon as I have some...
>
> PQ

use your wifes hairdryer first, if that dosen't work buy the torch.
mike

On 17 May 2004 10:19:03 -0700, [email protected] (Pet Quality) wrote:

>I'll spare you all the details, but suffice it to say that this motor
>will not be enabling any more woodworking activities, ever.

What? No pictures???

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> As far as I know I need to remove the key. The pulley certainly isn't
> budging with the key in place, and to my knowledge it's the pressure
> of the key against the motor shaft that keeps the pulley on there.
>
> I'll give some of these suggestions a try - thanks again!
>
> PQ

You're trying to remove the key with the pulley in place???? That is a
problem. Put a puller on the pulley if you can't tap it off and chances are,
the key will fall out. The key stops rotation.
Ed

On 15 May 2004 15:11:31 -0700, [email protected] (Pet Quality)
wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
>Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
>belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
>To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
>motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
>very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
>spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
>The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
>appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
>Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
>there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
>place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
>I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
>center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>PQ

Freeze spray (I think Radio Shack sells it) on the shaft and key, heat
on the pulley, and tap, tap, tap.

Also, are you sure the key comes out in the direction you think it
does?

Good luck.

Mike Patterson
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message

>
> It's the reason I stopped working on my own car - just got
> tired of cursing and throwing tools around when things went wrong
> (which was often).

Tsk, Tsk, you should never do that. I'm not the type to lose my temper
either. BTW, if you ever need a cheap chainsaw, I can point you to one
laying in the woods. I'm not saying how it got there.
Ed

Do you need to remove the key? Normally the key only keeps the pulley from
spinning on the shaft.

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
> Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
> belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
> To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
> motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
> very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
> spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
> The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
> appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
> Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
> there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
> place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> PQ

Have you tried breaking the pulley off yet?

Well, sorta been there done that too. My recommendation is to keep that
sucker around for two reasons - a reminder of your costly stupidity and
something to beat when the urge hits you.

BTW, you're not married I hope. <g>

Vic

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
> > It sounds like it may be too late!
>
> Yeah, it's too late. I really lost it after everything I tried ended
> up making the problem worse. The pulley got totally stuck on there (I
> thought it was on good before, but I managed to get in on even better
> - how ironic). After injuring myself a couple of times while trying to
> un-stick the pulley I more or less smashed the motor with the steel
> bar I'd been using to try to pry the pulley off. I plead temporary
> insanity (and I'm feeling much better now, ha).
>
> So for better or for worse, it's on to a replacement motor at this
> point.
>
> PQ

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.

It's possible you might need something like a gear puller. Before you get to
that stage though, you might try a spray can of some type of freezing agent
on the motor shaft.

Grizzly sells Leeson at a pretty good price. They also sell an import motor
which I have purchased and been satisfied.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Pet Quality) wrote in message news:
> > I'll be trying the heating method tomorrow morning. I actually don't
> > have a good heat source, need to go to the Borg and get a torch.
>
> The nature of my request has changed. Even with a torch I have been
> absolutely unable to get the key out or pulley off, and in fact
> succeeded only in driving the pulley all the way to the back of the
> motor shaft, at which point it became stuck completely on the shaft -
> and after trying every method I could think of to make it budge even a
> tiny bit, I lost my temper.
>
> I'll spare you all the details, but suffice it to say that this motor
> will not be enabling any more woodworking activities, ever. This has
> turned out to be a very, very expensive "cheap and simple upgrade".
> But frankly it's par for the course for me - every "mechanical"
> project I get myself into ends up taking 10x as long as it should, and
> costing 10x as much. So it's really no surprise to me to end up in
> this situation.
>
> Now that I've calmed down a little (but only a little), does anyone
> have a suggestion on what to use for a replacement motor on a Delta
> CS? The lowest price I see on the 'net is about $250 shipped for the
> Delta part (62-044). Something tells me I can do better than that, by
> going with some other, comparable make or model.
>
> Any suggestions? (please don't say 'take the motor to your delta
> dealer and have it fixed', I'm fairly certain at this point that this
> would not be economically viable.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> PQ

Vic Baron wrote:

> Well, sorta been there done that too. My recommendation is to keep that
> sucker around for two reasons - a reminder of your costly stupidity and
> something to beat when the urge hits you.

Further, he really should get that pulley off so that he knows how to do it
next time without destroying the motor.

If one is too cheap or poor to buy a gear puller a couple of strategically
applied wedges can work wonders.

> BTW, you're not married I hope. <g>
>
> Vic
>
> "Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
>> > It sounds like it may be too late!
>>
>> Yeah, it's too late. I really lost it after everything I tried ended
>> up making the problem worse. The pulley got totally stuck on there (I
>> thought it was on good before, but I managed to get in on even better
>> - how ironic). After injuring myself a couple of times while trying to
>> un-stick the pulley I more or less smashed the motor with the steel
>> bar I'd been using to try to pry the pulley off. I plead temporary
>> insanity (and I'm feeling much better now, ha).
>>
>> So for better or for worse, it's on to a replacement motor at this
>> point.
>>
>> PQ

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> thus spoke:
>
> > Well, sorta been there done that too. My recommendation is to keep that
> > sucker around for two reasons - a reminder of your costly stupidity and
> > something to beat when the urge hits you.
>
> Agreed, good advice :-)
>
> And btw, nope, not married. I'm actually a very even-keeled person
> 99.99% of the time. There's something about a stubborn mechanical
> problem that leads to both frustration and injury, that really pushes
> my buttons. It's the reason I stopped working on my own car - just got
> tired of cursing and throwing tools around when things went wrong
> (which was often). Unfortunately, to be a woodworker (as I'm
> discovering) means putting on a mechanic's hat from time to time. This
> may come naturally to some folks, just not to me.
>
> PQ

btw: 99.99% of the time means that for just over 52 minutes of the year, you
go berserk.

99.999% means just over 5 minutes.
99.9999% means just under 1 minute.

Is there a second set screw in the hole?

Pet Quality wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
> Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
> belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
> To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
> motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
> very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
> spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
> The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
> appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
> Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
> there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
> place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> PQ

On 15 May 2004 15:11:31 -0700, [email protected] (Pet Quality)
wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
>Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
>belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
>To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
>motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
>very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
>spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
>The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
>appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
>Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
>there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
>place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
>I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
>center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>PQ



a little judicious application of the torch to the key, followed by a
long soak in penetrating oil may help.

Heat it with a torch and then rub a candle on it while still hot. The wax
will get right in there and free up the key...

"Pet Quality" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I recently purchased an Inline Industries "Performance Package" for my
> Delta Contractor's saw. This kit consists of two pulleys and a new
> belt. When I went to install it this morning I came across a problem.
>
> To remove the rear pulley, you need to remove a set screw and then the
> motor shaft key. Well, the set screw lived up to its name - it was
> very much -set- in there. However, after considerable effort and some
> spray lubricant, the set screw came out.
>
> The motor shaft key is another story. It's not going anywhere - it
> appears to be very much frozen in place. Now, this is a 12 year old
> Contractor's saw, but it's been in the Southwest its whole life, so
> there hasn't been ample opportunity for a part like this to rust in
> place. Nonetheless, it's really, really REALLY in there.
>
> I've tried pliers, spray lubricant, and even light tapping with a
> center punch. Nothing seems to make this thing budge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> PQ

On 16 May 2004 09:46:57 -0700, [email protected] (Pet Quality)
wrote:

>"Mark Hopkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Heat it with a torch and then rub a candle on it while still hot. The wax
>> will get right in there and free up the key...
>
>Thank you all for the suggestions! To answer a couple of previous
>questions, I'm pretty confident it's the only set screw, because I
>have the original manual for the CS and for installation it only
>refers to tightening one. I can see the top of the key in the hole
>left by removing the one set screw, so there really isn't anywhere
>else for another to go. Plus, the replacement pully has only one,
>though admittedly that's not necessarily relevant.
>
>As far as I know I need to remove the key. The pulley certainly isn't
>budging with the key in place, and to my knowledge it's the pressure
>of the key against the motor shaft that keeps the pulley on there.
>
>I'll give some of these suggestions a try - thanks again!
>
>PQ


whatever you do don't try to drive the pulley off of the shaft with a
hammer. get a pulley puller. it'll come right off.