My wife and I are thinking of redoing the kitchen. We want to reface the cabinet
frames and build new cabinet doors. Shaker style.
We would like to get some opinions on how to do this. This is what we had planned.
1. Use 1/4 inch red oak ply to do the cabinet ends
2. Use 1/2 solid red oak to the front of the frames
3. Use 1x solid red oak for the cabinet door frames
4. Use 1/2 inch solid red oak for the panels (rabbit all sides to 1/4 inch thick)
All door panels will be dry fit then taken apart to stain before full assembly.
Is there anything wrong with this plan or are we missing something?
Thanks
Chris
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> The 1/4" ply for the exposed faces is cool.
>
> Most pros just use veneer for the face of the frames. Glue it on with
> contact cement, roll it and trim it with a small trim router.
>
> I would buy the doors. You can get them online. Get em unfinished,
> sand the doors and all the new oak to the same grit so finish will
> look the same on all. The doors will cost about the same as if you
> built them yourself, these pro shops can do it super cheap if you can
> get wholesale price, not to hard. They sell by the sq ft. Maybe some
> pro cab maker can tell us the going rate. They will be as good or
> better than anything you can build.
<snip>
>
Thanks for the suggestions. I have priced the doors and you are right I would
not save that much by doing it myself. It is just something I have never done
and I like the challenge. Time is not a problem as I am retired and it will most
likely give me a chance to buy some new tools. That is always a good thing.
Thanks again
Chris
Sounds like you have te right attitude. I imagine you'll go in late at
night and turn on the light just to look at your beautiful work once
you're done. And a few new tools is always the way to go.
Maybe a shaper or killer router table setup to help with those doors?
Maybe a wide drum sander to help flatten them like a pro?
On Sep 11, 10:39=A0am, Chris <[email protected]> wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > The 1/4" ply for the exposed faces is cool.
>
> > Most pros just use veneer for the face of the frames. Glue it on with
> > contact cement, roll it and trim it with a small trim router.
>
> > I would buy the doors. You can get them online. Get em unfinished,
> > sand the doors and all the new oak to the same grit so finish will
> > look the same on all. The doors will cost about the same as if you
> > built them yourself, these pro shops can do it super cheap if you can
> > get wholesale price, not to hard. They sell by the sq ft. Maybe some
> > pro cab maker can tell us the going rate. They will be as good or
> > better than anything you can build.
> <snip>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions. I have priced the doors and you are right I w=
ould
> not save that much by doing it myself. It is just something I have never =
done
> and I like the challenge. Time is not a problem as I am retired and it wi=
ll most
> likely give me a chance to buy some new tools. That is always a good thin=
g.
>
> Thanks again
> Chris
The 1/4" ply for the exposed faces is cool.
Most pros just use veneer for the face of the frames. Glue it on with
contact cement, roll it and trim it with a small trim router.
I would buy the doors. You can get them online. Get em unfinished,
sand the doors and all the new oak to the same grit so finish will
look the same on all. The doors will cost about the same as if you
built them yourself, these pro shops can do it super cheap if you can
get wholesale price, not to hard. They sell by the sq ft. Maybe some
pro cab maker can tell us the going rate. They will be as good or
better than anything you can build.
On Sep 10, 1:16=A0pm, Chris <[email protected]> wrote:
> My wife and I are thinking of redoing the kitchen. We want to reface the =
cabinet
> frames and build new cabinet doors. Shaker style.
>
> We would like to get some opinions on how to do this. This is what we had=
planned.
>
> 1. Use 1/4 inch red oak ply to do the cabinet ends
> 2. Use 1/2 solid red oak to the front of the frames
> 3. Use 1x solid red oak for the cabinet door frames
> 4. Use 1/2 inch solid red oak for the panels (rabbit all sides to 1/4 inc=
h thick)
>
> All door panels will be dry fit then taken apart to stain before full ass=
embly.
>
> Is there anything wrong with this plan or are we missing something?
>
> Thanks
> Chris
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote
> I would buy the doors. You can get them online. Get em unfinished,
> sand the doors and all the new oak to the same grit so finish will
> look the same on all. The doors will cost about the same as if you
> built them yourself, these pro shops can do it super cheap if you can
> get wholesale price, not to hard. They sell by the sq ft. Maybe some
> pro cab maker can tell us the going rate.
As a FWIW, real world example/go by:
The doors and drawer fronts (31 doors and 20 drawer fronts) on the kitchen
below cost $1879.40, delivered with tax (8.25%) and hinges, from a local
(Houston) cabinet door shop earlier this year:
http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects16.htm
> They will be as good or
> better than anything you can build.
On previous kitchens I've run the gauntlet from doing it all myself;
purchasing the stock, having it milled to spec, and doing the glue
up/assembly myself; to outsourcing the whole enchilada (as above); and
concur wholeheartedly with your statement.
On a remodel, and depending upon the door style (simple frame and panel), I
may reconsider outsourcing, but if your time is worth anything, you would do
well to get a bid and at least see what you may save in time and effort by
using a specialty shop.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)