I replaced the capacitor but like before the motor just hums and then
trips the circuit breaker. What else could it be. It did this earlier
and I cleaned off the contacts on the original capacitor and it worked for
a while. After it stopped working again I presumed it was a bad capacitor
so I replaced it only to find that there must be another problem. When
I turn the shaft by hand there seems to be a drag, it doesn"t turn
freely. Is there possibly something connected with the brake that is not
releasing??????
--
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Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> Could very well be the centrifugal switch that removes the start
> capacitor from the circuit once the motor is running.
>
> If so, it is a total PITA to replace since you have to open up the
> motor.
Lew may very well be correct.
I had a similar problem with my Sears RAS last year.
It turns out that the motor was LOADED with about a pound and a half of
very fine sawdust. The sheer volume was preventing the the centrifugal
switch from doing its' job. It wasn't broken, it just wouldn't switch
from start to run because it was packed almost full with the dust.
The solution that worked for me was to remove the motor from the arm,
open it up, vacuum what I could, and then blow the living hell out of
it with compressed air. The last part I would recommend be done outside
if your airline is long enough ;-)
Lew is also correct, it is a PITA to take it of and get to the insides,
but in the end, it was worth it. Purrs like a kitten once more.
Joe
PS
Another possible solution is Craig's list. Sears' RAS sell anywhere
from $75 to $150 in my area (SE Pennsylvania). It would be a cheap
source for a replacement motor if I needed one.
On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 05:36:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I turn the shaft by hand there seems to be a drag, it doesn"t turn
>>freely. Is there possibly something connected with the brake that is not
>>releasing??????
>
>Could also be a bad bearing giving the drag.
With all these maybe wrong possibilities, sound like it would be
easier just to take the motor in and have it rebuilt.
On 07/18/2013 07:58 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 02:51:25 +0000, Jerry
>> I turn the shaft by hand there seems to be a drag, it doesn"t turn
>> freely. Is there possibly something connected with the brake that is not
>> releasing??????
>
> Sounds like the brushes to me.
>
I don't think the Searz RAS uses a universal motor, hence no brushes.
Having had a PowrKraft (Montgomery Ward) RAS, and now a Searz RAS, the
decrease in noise level is the second clue. The capacitor on the OP's
RAS is the first clue.
"Doug Winterburn" wrote:
> I don't think the Searz RAS uses a universal motor, hence no
> brushes. Having had a PowrKraft (Montgomery Ward) RAS, and now a
> Searz RAS, the decrease in noise level is the second clue. The
> capacitor on the OP's RAS is the first clue.
-------------------------------------------------------
Could very well be the centrifugal switch that removes the start
capacitor from the circuit once the motor is running.
If so, it is a total PITA to replace since you have to open up the
motor.
Lew
wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 02:51:25 +0000, Jerry
>I turn the shaft by hand there seems to be a drag, it doesn"t turn
>freely. Is there possibly something connected with the brake that is
>not
>releasing??????
Sounds like the brushes to me.
------
Usually no brushes on a cap start motor.
If it is a cap run ???
If it is a cap start look for a centrifugal switch contact to cut off
the start cap. Sawdust and sparking in dust burn it out. Some used a
current sensor to cut off the cap. After the RPMs get up the lower
current drops out the contact to the cap. Remove the end bell of the
motor . Make sure to scratch alignment marks in both end bells across
the main housing first.
--
mike
--
On Thursday, July 18, 2013 at 9:51:25 PM UTC-5, Jerry wrote:
> I replaced the capacitor but like before the motor just hums and then
> trips the circuit breaker. What else could it be. It did this earlier
> and I cleaned off the contacts on the original capacitor and it worked for
> a while. After it stopped working again I presumed it was a bad capacitor
> so I replaced it only to find that there must be another problem. When
> I turn the shaft by hand there seems to be a drag, it doesn"t turn
> freely. Is there possibly something connected with the brake that is not
> releasing??????
>
> --
> posted from
> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/my-sears-radial-arm-saw-motor-won-t-turn-over-when-i-turn-it-565024-.htm
> using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
> to home and garden related groups
Do you have the part number for the capacitor ?
On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 02:51:25 +0000, Jerry
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I replaced the capacitor but like before the motor just hums and then
>trips the circuit breaker. What else could it be. It did this earlier
>and I cleaned off the contacts on the original capacitor and it worked for
>a while. After it stopped working again I presumed it was a bad capacitor
>so I replaced it only to find that there must be another problem. When
>I turn the shaft by hand there seems to be a drag, it doesn"t turn
>freely. Is there possibly something connected with the brake that is not
>releasing??????
Could also be a bad bearing giving the drag.
On 7/19/2013 7:24 AM, Just Another Joe wrote:
>
> Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Could very well be the centrifugal switch that removes the start
>> capacitor from the circuit once the motor is running.
>>
>> If so, it is a total PITA to replace since you have to open up the
>> motor.
>
> Lew may very well be correct.
>
> I had a similar problem with my Sears RAS last year.
>
> It turns out that the motor was LOADED with about a pound and a half of
> very fine sawdust. The sheer volume was preventing the the centrifugal
> switch from doing its' job. It wasn't broken, it just wouldn't switch
> from start to run because it was packed almost full with the dust.
>
> The solution that worked for me was to remove the motor from the arm,
> open it up, vacuum what I could, and then blow the living hell out of
> it with compressed air. The last part I would recommend be done outside
> if your airline is long enough ;-)
>
> Lew is also correct, it is a PITA to take it of and get to the insides,
> but in the end, it was worth it. Purrs like a kitten once more.
>
>
> Joe
>
> PS
>
> Another possible solution is Craig's list. Sears' RAS sell anywhere
> from $75 to $150 in my area (SE Pennsylvania). It would be a cheap
> source for a replacement motor if I needed one.
>
I also had a Sears Table Saw motor that the solution to the non start
was a thorough internal cleaning. They are fairly simple to disassemble.
As part of the cleanup with each use all openings on the motor gets
vacuumed.