We have about 900 sqft of old growth douglas fir that we will be
taking up, planing, sanding, staining with Bonakemi Drifast
Provincial, and topcoating with Bonakemi Traffic.
My question is whether we should use a conditioner on the wood since
it is a softwood so that it excepts the stain evenly. Is there a good
top of the line brand I should look for; I will be calling Bona on
Monday to see what is compatible with their products.
On Mar 10, 10:59 am, "GG.and.UN." <[email protected]> wrote:
> We have ... douglas fir that we will be
> taking up, planing, sanding, staining
> My question is whether we should use a conditioner on the wood
Yes. I've tried straight boiled linseed oil, commercial conditioner,
and
various dilutions of boiled linseed oil, all work the same on my
samples (spruce). Stain takeup without the conditioner was
TERRIBLE especially around knots (if you do tests, include one
or two knots or wild-grain areas in the test sample).
If I had to do it today, I'd use 1 part BLO and 3 parts thinner, and
apply with
no-lint rag.
On Mar 10, 5:44 pm, "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 10, 10:59 am, "GG.and.UN." <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > We have ... douglas fir that we will be
> > taking up, planing, sanding, staining
> > My question is whether we should use a conditioner on the wood
>
> Yes. I've tried straight boiled linseed oil, commercial conditioner,
> and
> various dilutions of boiled linseed oil, all work the same on my
> samples (spruce). Stain takeup without the conditioner was
> TERRIBLE especially around knots (if you do tests, include one
> or two knots or wild-grain areas in the test sample).
>
> If I had to do it today, I'd use 1 part BLO and 3 parts thinner, and
> apply with
> no-lint rag.
Thanks for the recommendation; concerning boiled linseed oil, would I
buy straight linseed oil and boil it or should I buy "boiled linseed
oil" that contains the metallic dryers. I don't want to by some
mislabeled bottle sold as such and actually get a heat-treated only
stand oil.
On Mar 11, 9:58 am, "GG.and.UN." <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 10, 5:44 pm, "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mar 10, 10:59 am, "GG.and.UN." <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > We have ... douglas fir that we will be
> > > taking up, planing, sanding, staining
> > > My question is whether we should use a conditioner on the wood
>
> > Yes. I've tried straight boiled linseed oil, commercial conditioner,
> > and
> > various dilutions of boiled linseed oil, all work the same on my
> > samples (spruce). Stain takeup without the conditioner was
> > TERRIBLE especially around knots (if you do tests, include one
> > or two knots or wild-grain areas in the test sample).
>
> > If I had to do it today, I'd use 1 part BLO and 3 parts thinner, and
> > apply with
> > no-lint rag.
>
> Thanks for the recommendation; concerning boiled linseed oil, would I
> buy straight linseed oil and boil it or should I buy "boiled linseed
> oil" that contains the metallic dryers. I don't want to by some
> mislabeled bottle sold as such and actually get a heat-treated only
> stand oil.
Good grief, buy "Boiled Linseed Oil"
I have a lot of admiration for people who REALLY make
stuff from scratch, like they start with a tree and make
a dresser. But for practical work it makes no sense.
You might_ try treating a sample with sodium hydroxide
solution, (lye) the way cherry is artificially aged. You
can google this group to see hows that it done. I like
the effect, but it may not be the color you are after.
It is becoming harder here to buy sodium hydroxide off
the shelf, thank goodness nobody makes illegal
drugs from wood.
--
FF
There's no way we can be sure, but my guess is YES.
I'd take some samples and try out the possible methods. No sense in having
to strip misapplied stain from 900 sq. ft of timber.
Old Guy
"GG.and.UN." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We have about 900 sqft of old growth douglas fir that we will be
> taking up, planing, sanding, staining with Bonakemi Drifast
> Provincial, and topcoating with Bonakemi Traffic.
>
> My question is whether we should use a conditioner on the wood since
> it is a softwood so that it excepts the stain evenly. Is there a good
> top of the line brand I should look for; I will be calling Bona on
> Monday to see what is compatible with their products.
>
"GG.and.UN." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> it is a softwood so that it excepts the stain evenly.
If it excepts it, you won't see it anyway.