I think its time for me to build a new router table. I've seen a
variety of plans over the years and a Google search results in lots of
info. In this group, Norm's design keeps surfacing and I'm wondering
if that's the best design for a general purpose router table.
Second, what about the lift mechanism and insert. There are many
priced from $150 or so to $3-400 with digital readouts, etc.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I think its time for me to build a new router table. I've seen a
> variety of plans over the years and a Google search results in lots of
> info. In this group, Norm's design keeps surfacing and I'm wondering
> if that's the best design for a general purpose router table.
>
> Second, what about the lift mechanism and insert. There are many
> priced from $150 or so to $3-400 with digital readouts, etc.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Pick the router table design that interests you the most.
Router lifts, IMHO old school and not a very efficient way to spend your
money. For the same money or less you can typically buy a new router with
the lift feature built in, then you have an extra router instead of an extra
lift.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I think its time for me to build a new router table. I've seen a
> variety of plans over the years and a Google search results in lots of
> info. In this group, Norm's design keeps surfacing and I'm wondering
> if that's the best design for a general purpose router table.
>
> Second, what about the lift mechanism and insert. There are many
> priced from $150 or so to $3-400 with digital readouts, etc.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Get a Milwaukee router like this one:
http://tinyurl.com/yo4mca
The "T" handle operates thru a hole in the base plate. I'm really pleased
with mine.
Max
[email protected] wrote:
> I think its time for me to build a new router table. I've seen a
> variety of plans over the years and a Google search results in lots
> of
> info. In this group, Norm's design keeps surfacing and I'm
> wondering
> if that's the best design for a general purpose router table.
>
> Second, what about the lift mechanism and insert. There are many
> priced from $150 or so to $3-400 with digital readouts, etc.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
How much are you willing to pay for convenience? Some plunge routers
are being made in such a way that they can easily be just bolted to
the bottom of a router table and the plunge mechanism, possibly with
an inexpensive add on, used in lieu of a lift.
Some years ago I went with a Mast-R-Lift and and 3-1/2 horse Porter
Cable--if I was building the same table now I'd have gone with a
different router and no separate lift, but I'd have to research the
current market to say which router I'd go with.
I wouldn't commit to Norm's table being "the best" but it's certainly
a good one, stable, decent facilities for dust collection, with plenty
of storage. There's a similar design described in "Woodwork with the
router". Don't be afraid to customize either of them to your
particular needs though.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 08:38:03 -0500, alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>Drill a hole in a piece of plywood, attach your router on the
>underside, and rest the plywood on a frame that has crossmembers close
>to the router to keep the ply from sagging. Clamp another piece of
>plywood or mdf to this as a fence. The result will be serviceable for
>90% (at least) of your router table needs. It will NOT be ideal, but
>it will give you good results while you inform yourself on what YOU
>want in a router table. (You are the one that will be using, it right,
>not anyone on the wreck?)
Damn... you saw my router table!
Someone gave me one of those POS plastic router tables about 20 years ago.. the
only good thing about it was the clamping pieces on the bottom of the table, so
that's what holds my router under the hole in a 3/4" particle board table with
the same fence you use..
I actually bought the Lee Valley insert set a few months ago and might even use
it someday to build a better table..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks Max! The Milwaukee router you provided a link to seems like a
> great one! I added it to my "wish list".
>
> -Bill
You're more than welcome.
Here are a couple pictures of the T handle set-up.
http://flickr.com/photos/18036559@N04/
Max
Thanks Max! The Milwaukee router you provided a link to seems like a great
one! I added it to my "wish list".
-Bill
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I think its time for me to build a new router table. I've seen a
>> variety of plans over the years and a Google search results in lots of
>> info. In this group, Norm's design keeps surfacing and I'm wondering
>> if that's the best design for a general purpose router table.
>>
>> Second, what about the lift mechanism and insert. There are many
>> priced from $150 or so to $3-400 with digital readouts, etc.
>>
>> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Get a Milwaukee router like this one:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yo4mca
>
> The "T" handle operates thru a hole in the base plate. I'm really pleased
> with mine.
>
> Max
>
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 08:56:40 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
> Some years ago I went with a Mast-R-Lift and and 3-1/2 horse Porter
> Cable--if I was building the same table now I'd have gone with a
> different router and no separate lift, but I'd have to research the
> current market to say which router I'd go with.
Porter-Cable, Freud, and Triton all make 2-1/4 and up plunge routers with
above the table lift capabilities. All have gotten good reviews.
I'm sure the 3 makers above are not an all-inclusive list. They're just
the ones that came to mind.
[email protected] wrote:
>I think its time for me to build a new router table. I've seen a
>variety of plans over the years and a Google search results in lots of
>info. In this group, Norm's design keeps surfacing and I'm wondering
>if that's the best design for a general purpose router table.
>
>Second, what about the lift mechanism and insert. There are many
>priced from $150 or so to $3-400 with digital readouts, etc.
>
>Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Drill a hole in a piece of plywood, attach your router on the
underside, and rest the plywood on a frame that has crossmembers close
to the router to keep the ply from sagging. Clamp another piece of
plywood or mdf to this as a fence. The result will be serviceable for
90% (at least) of your router table needs. It will NOT be ideal, but
it will give you good results while you inform yourself on what YOU
want in a router table. (You are the one that will be using, it right,
not anyone on the wreck?)
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
[email protected] writes:
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Here are my thoughts: http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/