Greetings and Salutations.
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:04:34 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached
>some painted mdf chair rail.
>
>will either split the mdf?
>
>any tips?
>
>thanks,
Well, bigger is better. I suspect that, as with
most nailing...the closer you are to an edge the greater
the chance that a chunk will split out (especially with
MDF).
So...the answer is "yes...if you nail in the
wrong place". Otherwise...probably not.
I would suggest the porter cable da250, myself,
as it is quite a well made system and not too expensive.
However, if you only have to shoot a few finishing nails,
perhaps a Harbor Freight junker would do fine too...and
would cost you a lot less.
Regards
Dave Mundt
MDF may not split in the literal sense but it will split. As stated, if
you get near an edge the effect will be the same as splitting. I've had
it happen with 16 gauge finish nails.
RB
Stephen M wrote:
> MDF doesn't have "grain". It won't split.
>
> Before someone jumps on that statement, The wood fibers are not aligned in
> one direction as they are in wood, consequently, they will be less likely to
> split.
>
> Steve
>
>
> "Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Greetings and Salutations.
>>
>>On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:04:34 -0700,
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached
>>>some painted mdf chair rail.
>>>
>>>will either split the mdf?
>>>
>>>any tips?
>>>
>>>thanks,
>>
>>Well, bigger is better. I suspect that, as with
>>most nailing...the closer you are to an edge the greater
>>the chance that a chunk will split out (especially with
>>MDF).
>>So...the answer is "yes...if you nail in the
>>wrong place". Otherwise...probably not.
>>I would suggest the porter cable da250, myself,
>>as it is quite a well made system and not too expensive.
>>However, if you only have to shoot a few finishing nails,
>>perhaps a Harbor Freight junker would do fine too...and
>>would cost you a lot less.
>>Regards
>>Dave Mundt
>>
>
>
>
MDF will split/crack if it is nailed or screwed near an edge. DAMHINT
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MDF doesn't have "grain". It won't split.
>
> Before someone jumps on that statement, The wood fibers are not aligned in
> one direction as they are in wood, consequently, they will be less likely
to
> split.
>
> Steve
>
>
> "Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Greetings and Salutations.
> >
> > On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:04:34 -0700,
> > [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > >planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached
> > >some painted mdf chair rail.
> > >
> > >will either split the mdf?
> > >
> > >any tips?
> > >
> > >thanks,
> > Well, bigger is better. I suspect that, as with
> > most nailing...the closer you are to an edge the greater
> > the chance that a chunk will split out (especially with
> > MDF).
> > So...the answer is "yes...if you nail in the
> > wrong place". Otherwise...probably not.
> > I would suggest the porter cable da250, myself,
> > as it is quite a well made system and not too expensive.
> > However, if you only have to shoot a few finishing nails,
> > perhaps a Harbor Freight junker would do fine too...and
> > would cost you a lot less.
> > Regards
> > Dave Mundt
> >
>
>
Greetings and Salutations...
On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:18:58 -0500, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>MDF doesn't have "grain". It won't split.
>
>Before someone jumps on that statement, The wood fibers are not aligned in
>one direction as they are in wood, consequently, they will be less likely to
>split.
>
>Steve
>
>
Ok...I will buy that. Perhaps it would
be better to say "blow out". I have had a number
of times where the pressure of the nail going through
the fiberboard caused the edge to bulge, if the nails
were too close to the edge of the board, or too big.
Regards
Dave Mundt
MDF doesn't have "grain". It won't split.
Before someone jumps on that statement, The wood fibers are not aligned in
one direction as they are in wood, consequently, they will be less likely to
split.
Steve
"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings and Salutations.
>
> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:04:34 -0700,
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> >planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached
> >some painted mdf chair rail.
> >
> >will either split the mdf?
> >
> >any tips?
> >
> >thanks,
> Well, bigger is better. I suspect that, as with
> most nailing...the closer you are to an edge the greater
> the chance that a chunk will split out (especially with
> MDF).
> So...the answer is "yes...if you nail in the
> wrong place". Otherwise...probably not.
> I would suggest the porter cable da250, myself,
> as it is quite a well made system and not too expensive.
> However, if you only have to shoot a few finishing nails,
> perhaps a Harbor Freight junker would do fine too...and
> would cost you a lot less.
> Regards
> Dave Mundt
>
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached
> some painted mdf chair rail.
>
> will either split the mdf?
>
> any tips?
>
> thanks,
Not unless you shoot too close to the end. I'd be more worried about the
fairly large hole that the 15ga will leave. I assume you're painting it so
you can fill it with minimal problems. I usually try to use my 18ga nailer
with 2" brads and a bead of caulk with stuff like this. The brads really
just hold it in place while the caulk dries. I've found this method to be
solid but not so permanent that it can't be removed with minimal damage to
the wall. Really, if you're painting, it doesn't matter too much which
you're using.
Good luck,
Matt
very interesting..
what kinda caulk?
how do you apply caulk so it looks good..
i've done silicone in bath/shower.. but it does not look the best..
On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 14:51:51 GMT, MattH <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached
>> some painted mdf chair rail.
>>
>> will either split the mdf?
>>
>> any tips?
>>
>> thanks,
>Not unless you shoot too close to the end. I'd be more worried about the
>fairly large hole that the 15ga will leave. I assume you're painting it so
>you can fill it with minimal problems. I usually try to use my 18ga nailer
>with 2" brads and a bead of caulk with stuff like this. The brads really
>just hold it in place while the caulk dries. I've found this method to be
>solid but not so permanent that it can't be removed with minimal damage to
>the wall. Really, if you're painting, it doesn't matter too much which
>you're using.
>Good luck,
>Matt
[email protected] wrote
>
>very interesting..
>
>what kinda caulk?
If you use caulk use painter's caulk (it will be labled as such). Quick drying
spackle works well, work in with your finger & lightly buff off the excess.
Drywall compound will also work if you've got some of that around, apply the
same as spackle.
>how do you apply caulk so it looks good..
Cut the tip as small as you can & apply a dab to the nail hole, clean off
excess with a lightly damp sponge & let dry.
All of these may shrink a bit so may require a 2nd coat.
>i've done silicone in bath/shower.. but it does not look the best..
Silicone is always a PITA, best way I've found is to apply slowly & steadily
with as small a tip opening as possible for the job. Clean up with mineral
spirits befoe it has a chance to set. A fingertip dipped in the MS is great for
smoothing out the bead.
HTH,
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later,
the damage remains.
Sounds more like you are saying how to use caulk to fill nail holes.
I was curious how the poster mean to use 18ga brads and caulk to
attach.
fwiw- my best looking silicone job was done w/o using a finger.. just
run a steady bead and dont touch it! I'd like to find out who did our
baths in our 1st home. Man.. they laid a perfect rouded bead.. like
it was 100% automated.
On 17 Jan 2004 18:28:12 GMT, [email protected] (Scott Brownell)
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote
>
>>
>>very interesting..
>>
>>what kinda caulk?
>
>If you use caulk use painter's caulk (it will be labled as such). Quick drying
>spackle works well, work in with your finger & lightly buff off the excess.
>Drywall compound will also work if you've got some of that around, apply the
>same as spackle.
>
>>how do you apply caulk so it looks good..
>
>Cut the tip as small as you can & apply a dab to the nail hole, clean off
>excess with a lightly damp sponge & let dry.
>
>All of these may shrink a bit so may require a 2nd coat.
>
>>i've done silicone in bath/shower.. but it does not look the best..
>
>Silicone is always a PITA, best way I've found is to apply slowly & steadily
>with as small a tip opening as possible for the job. Clean up with mineral
>spirits befoe it has a chance to set. A fingertip dipped in the MS is great for
>smoothing out the bead.
>
>HTH,
>Scott