Hey gang,
I'm busy Googling as I type this but I thought I'd post here as well, given
that I'm likely to get some good advice through this forum.
I just got an awesome deal on a "floor model" cabinet saw. When it was
assembled the person stripped the protective plastic (and grease) cover but
neglected to protect the tabletop afterwards. As you can imagine, a
couple/few months on the showroom floor ensured that the iron tabletop
collected quite an array of smudges and handprints that are beginning to
manifest themselves as rust. (Hence the awesome deal....)
I set up the saw last night and then literally soaked the entire top with
WD-40 and let it sit overnight. After work today I used a random-orbit
sander with a nylon pad on it (green pot scrubber) and the top is now rust,
smudge, and fingerprint free, and a gleaming silver-grey.
I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 on a cloth and wiping the top down
(leaving behind a thin coat of WD-40)
Soooooooo.... I'm wondering what the experts here recommend for further
tabletop care.... I'm looking for advice on what I've done already (PLEASE
don't tell me that I screwed it up! LOL) as well as advice for daily care.
The owner's manual that came with the saw suggests paste wax, but I dunno if
that's the best idea out there.
I would imagine that anything good for tablesaw top care would apply equally
to my bandsaw and jointer.... Am I wrong?
Thanks,
Cheers!
Gary
B A R R Y wrote:
> bremen68 wrote:
>> I did a little poking around and there are a bunch of places you can
>> order Johnson Paste Wax on the web.
>>
>> It looks like it runs around $5 - $7 for a 1 pound can. And that'll
>> last you forever... :-)
>>
Amazon.com sells it for $5.99 a can. One can will last damn nea forever in the
shop
>
>
> Or, one could buy Trewax, or any of the other fine, silicone-free paste
> waxes sold by many local paint stores.
Like I said before, all Johnson's is is canauba wax. When you get right down to
it, canauba is canauba. It doesn't matter what brand as long as it's pure.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
Gary,
I have used Boeshield on my old Sears contractor saw with great sucuss.
I too recently moved up to a cabinet saw and the owners manual suggest
applying talcum powder with an eraser. (I haven't been brave enough to
try it on the new Powermatic) Neither of these have wax to cause
finishing problems. I wonder if anyone uses talcum powder out there?
David
Gary wrote:
> Hey gang,
>
> I'm busy Googling as I type this but I thought I'd post here as well, given
> that I'm likely to get some good advice through this forum.
>
> I just got an awesome deal on a "floor model" cabinet saw. When it was
> assembled the person stripped the protective plastic (and grease) cover but
> neglected to protect the tabletop afterwards. As you can imagine, a
> couple/few months on the showroom floor ensured that the iron tabletop
> collected quite an array of smudges and handprints that are beginning to
> manifest themselves as rust. (Hence the awesome deal....)
>
> >
> Thanks,
>
> Cheers!
>
> Gary
Hey Everyone!
I just purchased the Delta 14" a couple of months ago and noticed that
the table milling marks (which are poorly done to leave that rough of a
finish) were pulling/grabbing the stock as i was cutting (my first cuts
were complex curved cuts) so I started block sanding the table (solvent
with wet-or-dry sandpaper) a couple nights and wasn't getting very far
very fast. I was and still am getting this POS into usable form. Anyway
I had problems with the rust/maintainence issue with the C.I. table, I
tried the wax and still had rust trying to start up, since I really
only have one day a week to try to use my shop, I noticed two weeks ago
that this is silly after a fresh coat of wax and one week that it was
rusting again. So after many I-net searches and finding nothing pro or
con I decided to paint my table top. During the two times that I was
block sanding my table trying to smooth it out, I used up the last of
my Remington (the gun company) Rem-Lube (signifigantly better than
WD-40), now I needed to remove the latest coat of rust and needed a
solvent to wet sand with and all I had was Brite-Bore ( another
Remington Product), I mention this because the rust was gone before I
was even finished sanding in prep for primer, I didn't realize that it
would remove rust. Anyway, I used about 3 medium thick coats of
Dupli-Color grey primer/filler (lacquer base not enamel), wet sanded
with water and after drying put on 4 medium wet coats (2 at a time
within 3 hours) of Birchwood-Casey Tuff-Sheen clear poly-urethane
gunstock finish. I know this to be a very tough finish which is solvent
proof and very durable. I let that kick off for 30 hours and carefully
wet sanded again to remove/hide/fill the last bits of milling tool
marks and applied 2 more fully wet coats of Tuff-Sheen for a nice,
smooth rust free finish. Even though the paint hasn't fully cured, I've
made a few small cuts on some smaller stock and can tell the differance
already.
Just so you know it will take about 4 to 6 weeks to fully cure and I'm
almost half way there but I can tell that it will be worth it so I dont
have to worry about rust or milling marks grabbing and pulling my wood
stock.
<snip>
> I would imagine that anything good for tablesaw top care would apply equally
> to my bandsaw and jointer.... Am I wrong?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Cheers!
>
> Gary
Howdy Gary.... I use Johnson Paste wax on all of my tool tables. I put
it on a little heavy, let it dry fairly well then buff the daylights
out of it with a wool blanket piece... The wood glides like it's on
rollers. And like it's state above, when it gets a little tacky just
redo it with the wax.
I'm not keen on leaving the WD40 on the top. It could leave marks on
the wood that won't show up until you try and finish it...
Gary wrote:
.... I used a random-orbit
> sander with a nylon pad on it (green pot scrubber) and the top is now rust,
> smudge, and fingerprint free, and a gleaming silver-grey.
>
> I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 on a cloth and wiping the top down
> (leaving behind a thin coat of WD-40)
Sounds like a very good cleaning technique. I'm taking notes.
Bear in mind that (for REAL rust issues) there are brown and grey nylon
pads intended for metal finishing that scour more agressively.
WD-40 is too transient for real protection (and it has detergent
properties,
so a little residue might attract moisture). Wax, paint have already
been
suggested. I'll add linseed oil to the list; it forms a film, fills
grooves,
and is benign to wood if it rubs off.
I've found some rough castings can be improved by rubbing down with
a cheap dollar-store sharpening stone. As long as your table is
clean,
I'd do that first, and If the stone gunks up, a rubber eraser will
clean it (and
the stone will shed particles, sweep those up before they grit up the
moving parts).
Rub a tablespoon or two of boiled linseed oil on to finish.
I have one last word. Wood magazine did a test in the March 2004. It
was an extreme test where they exposed a cast iorn wing to
moisture-laden air. They tested Boeshield, Topcote, Bulfrog fastwax,
slipit, Johnson's paste wax and Carnuba wax. All but the Boeshield
rusted over within 24 hours. It took 380 hours for the Bioshield
treated surface to rust over.
I used it on my table saw that was left under a carport in Hawaii. It
was not used often. I even left it under the carport over a 6-month
deployment. It worked extremely well for me. I applied a thick coat
before leaving and only had to scrub the product and accumulated dust
off when I returned.
I also want to add that Wood Magazine stated that all the products
tested would be effective if applied regularly. I an confident that I
can leave mine sitting up to 6 months without having to worry about
rust taking over. Sorry to sound like an infomercial but it has proven
itself to me.
> They don't sell Johnson's wax in Canada. They quite selling it some years
> ago leading to the widespread rumor that they were no longer making it.
> Yes
> they are but they don't sell it in Canada.
Not sold in Canada? Dang!
How about this stuff:
http://gateway.canadiantire.ca/driver.php?fileid=2534374303517416_1408474396670271_845524441890207_
Does it contain Bad Things like silicone?
I also found "natural" (non tinted) Minwax finishing wax... Is there a
reason that this would be a bad idea?
Cheers!
Gary
On Mon, 11 Sep 2006 17:21:42 -0400, "Gary" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hey gang,
>
...
>
>I set up the saw last night and then literally soaked the entire top with
>WD-40 and let it sit overnight. After work today I used a random-orbit
>sander with a nylon pad on it (green pot scrubber) and the top is now rust,
>smudge, and fingerprint free, and a gleaming silver-grey.
>
>I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 on a cloth and wiping the top down
>(leaving behind a thin coat of WD-40)
...
>Thanks,
>
>Cheers!
>
>Gary
>
No, not the dreaded WD-40!
Get it cleaned off of the top just as soon as you can with some
mineral spirits. Look at the product description for WD-40. One of
it's "uses" is as a penetrating oil. How do you think that is
accomplished? They put a corrosive agent in the mix.
Ask any gun owner their opinion about using WD-40 on their gun. You
might want to step back a bit in preparation for the swing.
Seriously.
After the WD-40 is cleaned off, go to the BORG or similar store and
get yourself some old fashioned paste wax that your mom used to use on
her wood floors and furniture. Apply that liberally and then polish
it off with a smooth cloth.
===========================================================================
Chris
On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 22:55:35 -0400, "Gary" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I also found "natural" (non tinted) Minwax finishing wax... Is there a
>reason that this would be a bad idea?
I've been using a can of that on my cast iron for a few years, and so
far no rust. No finishing problems to speak of either. I wax the
table saw once a week, and the lathes every few months. The lathes
get a little film of rust on the ways at that frequency of
application, but I've found that that's sort of desirable to keep the
tailstock from slipping.
I've always wondered if it's possible to "season" my cast iron table tops
much like I do my dutch oven. After seasoning, it doesn't rust or feel
oily. The only problem would be how to heat the big tables! --dave
"Gary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey gang,
>
> I'm busy Googling as I type this but I thought I'd post here as well,
> given that I'm likely to get some good advice through this forum.
>
> I just got an awesome deal on a "floor model" cabinet saw. When it was
> assembled the person stripped the protective plastic (and grease) cover
> but neglected to protect the tabletop afterwards. As you can imagine, a
> couple/few months on the showroom floor ensured that the iron tabletop
> collected quite an array of smudges and handprints that are beginning to
> manifest themselves as rust. (Hence the awesome deal....)
>
> I set up the saw last night and then literally soaked the entire top with
> WD-40 and let it sit overnight. After work today I used a random-orbit
> sander with a nylon pad on it (green pot scrubber) and the top is now
> rust, smudge, and fingerprint free, and a gleaming silver-grey.
>
> I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 on a cloth and wiping the top
> down (leaving behind a thin coat of WD-40)
>
> Soooooooo.... I'm wondering what the experts here recommend for further
> tabletop care.... I'm looking for advice on what I've done already (PLEASE
> don't tell me that I screwed it up! LOL) as well as advice for daily care.
> The owner's manual that came with the saw suggests paste wax, but I dunno
> if that's the best idea out there.
>
> I would imagine that anything good for tablesaw top care would apply
> equally to my bandsaw and jointer.... Am I wrong?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Cheers!
>
> Gary
>
Gary wrote:
> Soooooooo.... I'm wondering what the experts here recommend for
> further tabletop care.... I'm looking for advice on what I've done
> already (PLEASE don't tell me that I screwed it up! LOL) as well as
> advice for daily care. The owner's manual that came with the saw
> suggests paste wax, but I dunno if that's the best idea out there.
Wax works. Makes it slick too. When it isn't slick anymore, time for
another coat of wax, Johnson's Paste wax preferred.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
For some reason I thought that wax would prevent the wood from absorbing a
finish but I obviously wasn't thinking that through.
I haven't managed to find Johnson's wax yet (still looking) and will look
into the spray-on solutions as well. (Someone told me that the spray on
products are nothing more than really, really expensive "Endust" .... Any
truth to this?)
Thanks again, everyone,
Cheers!
Gary (makin' sawdust, in Canada)
They don't sell Johnson's wax in Canada. They quite selling it some years
ago leading to the widespread rumor that they were no longer making it. Yes
they are but they don't sell it in Canada.
"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gary wrote:
> > I haven't managed to find Johnson's wax yet (still looking) and will
look
> > into the spray-on solutions as well. (Someone told me that the spray on
> > products are nothing more than really, really expensive "Endust" ....
Any
> > truth to this?)
>
>
> If you're in Canada, call the manufacturer of Johnson's Paste Wax toll
free at
> 1-877-506-7352. Tell them you're looking for a local source and see what
they
> say. SC Johnson maintains a manufacturing presence in Canada, if I'm not
> mistaken.
>
> Forget the spray wax. Johnson's is nothing more than pure canauba wax in
paste
> form. One can will last a lifetime.
>
>
>
> --
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN
> mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
>
>
Gary wrote:
> They don't sell Johnson's wax in Canada.
I've quit using Johnson's wax and started using my own home brewed
"sheep dip" which appears to do a better job.
It is as follows:
8 oz, bees wax.
4 oz, turps.
4 oz, Boiled linseed oil.
Makes a nice wax for furniture and keeps the table saw top rust free.
Use a 1 lb coffee can in a pot of water to melt the wax.
When melted, add turps & BLO, stir and let cool.
When cool cover with plastic cap from the can.
HTH
Lew
"Gary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
(Someone told me that the spray on
> products are nothing more than really, really expensive "Endust" .... Any
> truth to this?)
>
No.
I use good old Johnson paste wax on my General. Works great and is cheap.
WD-40 is a waste of time. I think they all have to be renewed periodically.
There are some liquids made just for that purpose but they have a nasty
solvent in them that is given off when they dry.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gary,
> I have used Boeshield on my old Sears contractor saw with great sucuss.
> I too recently moved up to a cabinet saw and the owners manual suggest
> applying talcum powder with an eraser. (I haven't been brave enough to
> try it on the new Powermatic) Neither of these have wax to cause
> finishing problems. I wonder if anyone uses talcum powder out there?
> David
>
bremen68 wrote:
> I did a little poking around and there are a bunch of places you can
> order Johnson Paste Wax on the web.
>
> It looks like it runs around $5 - $7 for a 1 pound can. And that'll
> last you forever... :-)
>
Or, one could buy Trewax, or any of the other fine, silicone-free paste
waxes sold by many local paint stores.
On 12 Sep 2006 11:08:08 -0700, "bremen68" <[email protected]>
wrote:
><snip>
>> I would imagine that anything good for tablesaw top care would apply equally
>> to my bandsaw and jointer.... Am I wrong?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>> Gary
>
>Howdy Gary.... I use Johnson Paste wax on all of my tool tables. I put
>it on a little heavy, let it dry fairly well then buff the daylights
>out of it with a wool blanket piece... The wood glides like it's on
>rollers. And like it's state above, when it gets a little tacky just
>redo it with the wax.
>
>I'm not keen on leaving the WD40 on the top. It could leave marks on
>the wood that won't show up until you try and finish it...
I use Johnson's Paste Wax too. Goes on easy, then I use an auto
buffer for a soft shine. A can of wax lasts years.
Gary wrote:
> I haven't managed to find Johnson's wax yet (still looking) and will look
> into the spray-on solutions as well. (Someone told me that the spray on
> products are nothing more than really, really expensive "Endust" .... Any
> truth to this?)
If you're in Canada, call the manufacturer of Johnson's Paste Wax toll free at
1-877-506-7352. Tell them you're looking for a local source and see what they
say. SC Johnson maintains a manufacturing presence in Canada, if I'm not
mistaken.
Forget the spray wax. Johnson's is nothing more than pure canauba wax in paste
form. One can will last a lifetime.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
Yes, it would work. Problem is though that it may well warp. Heating and
cooling cast iron is a common way of stress relieving. If the table was not
fully stress relieved, it will move. I wouldn't chance it.
"Dave Jackson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've always wondered if it's possible to "season" my cast iron table tops
> much like I do my dutch oven. After seasoning, it doesn't rust or feel
> oily. The only problem would be how to heat the big tables! --dave
>
Johnson's paste wax is what I use. The way you reconditioned it was good.
"Gary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey gang,
>
> I'm busy Googling as I type this but I thought I'd post here as well,
given
> that I'm likely to get some good advice through this forum.
>
> I just got an awesome deal on a "floor model" cabinet saw. When it was
> assembled the person stripped the protective plastic (and grease) cover
but
> neglected to protect the tabletop afterwards. As you can imagine, a
> couple/few months on the showroom floor ensured that the iron tabletop
> collected quite an array of smudges and handprints that are beginning to
> manifest themselves as rust. (Hence the awesome deal....)
>
> I set up the saw last night and then literally soaked the entire top with
> WD-40 and let it sit overnight. After work today I used a random-orbit
> sander with a nylon pad on it (green pot scrubber) and the top is now
rust,
> smudge, and fingerprint free, and a gleaming silver-grey.
>
> I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 on a cloth and wiping the top
down
> (leaving behind a thin coat of WD-40)
>
> Soooooooo.... I'm wondering what the experts here recommend for further
> tabletop care.... I'm looking for advice on what I've done already (PLEASE
> don't tell me that I screwed it up! LOL) as well as advice for daily care.
> The owner's manual that came with the saw suggests paste wax, but I dunno
if
> that's the best idea out there.
>
> I would imagine that anything good for tablesaw top care would apply
equally
> to my bandsaw and jointer.... Am I wrong?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Cheers!
>
> Gary
>
>
On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 19:25:18 -0400, "Gary" <[email protected]>
wrote:
inish but I obviously wasn't thinking that through.
>
>I haven't managed to find Johnson's wax yet (still looking)
Try any drug store or grocery store. Usually in the house cleaning
products section.
Markl
Would appear that it doesn't have silicone. In any case, it should say on
the can. Generally though, silicone is added to waxes to make up for the
lack of real wax. I think Turtle wax started it with there liquid wax that
was supposed to be so easy to use. Sure it was easy. Didn't work worth crap
either.
"Gary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > They don't sell Johnson's wax in Canada. They quite selling it some
years
> > ago leading to the widespread rumor that they were no longer making it.
> > Yes
> > they are but they don't sell it in Canada.
>
> Not sold in Canada? Dang!
>
> How about this stuff:
>
>
http://gateway.canadiantire.ca/driver.php?fileid=2534374303517416_1408474396670271_845524441890207_
>
> Does it contain Bad Things like silicone?
>
> I also found "natural" (non tinted) Minwax finishing wax... Is there a
> reason that this would be a bad idea?
>
> Cheers!
>
> Gary
>
>
While I don't know of any reason why you can't paint the table top, I
shudder at the idea. How well will the paint hold up to wear? Will it
require more maintaince then a unpainted surface? It will probably work
well as a rust inhibitor, and will smooth the surface, but how durable is
it. Will the color match the rest of the shop? I know that paint will hold
up well on nonworking surfaces of cast iron, all the tools in my shop have
paint on the cast iron non working surfaces, but on a working surface I have
doubts. If the saw were new and had that rough of a surface I would have
called Delta and complained, but that may have gotten you nowhere with there
lack of customer care. Keep us posted I for one would like to know how well
this works.
"millleft" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gary wrote:
> > Hey gang,
> >
> > I'm busy Googling as I type this but I thought I'd post here as well,
given
> > that I'm likely to get some good advice through this forum.
> >
> > I just got an awesome deal on a "floor model" cabinet saw. When it was
> > assembled the person stripped the protective plastic (and grease) cover
but
> > neglected to protect the tabletop afterwards. As you can imagine, a
> > couple/few months on the showroom floor ensured that the iron tabletop
> > collected quite an array of smudges and handprints that are beginning to
> > manifest themselves as rust. (Hence the awesome deal....)
> >
> > >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> > Gary
>
>
> Hey Everyone!
>
> I just purchased the Delta 14" a couple of months ago and noticed that
> the table milling marks (which are poorly done to leave that rough of a
> finish) were pulling/grabbing the stock as i was cutting (my first cuts
> were complex curved cuts) so I started block sanding the table (solvent
> with wet-or-dry sandpaper) a couple nights and wasn't getting very far
> very fast. I was and still am getting this POS into usable form. Anyway
> I had problems with the rust/maintainence issue with the C.I. table, I
> tried the wax and still had rust trying to start up, since I really
> only have one day a week to try to use my shop, I noticed two weeks ago
> that this is silly after a fresh coat of wax and one week that it was
> rusting again. So after many I-net searches and finding nothing pro or
> con I decided to paint my table top. During the two times that I was
> block sanding my table trying to smooth it out, I used up the last of
> my Remington (the gun company) Rem-Lube (signifigantly better than
> WD-40), now I needed to remove the latest coat of rust and needed a
> solvent to wet sand with and all I had was Brite-Bore ( another
> Remington Product), I mention this because the rust was gone before I
> was even finished sanding in prep for primer, I didn't realize that it
> would remove rust. Anyway, I used about 3 medium thick coats of
> Dupli-Color grey primer/filler (lacquer base not enamel), wet sanded
> with water and after drying put on 4 medium wet coats (2 at a time
> within 3 hours) of Birchwood-Casey Tuff-Sheen clear poly-urethane
> gunstock finish. I know this to be a very tough finish which is solvent
> proof and very durable. I let that kick off for 30 hours and carefully
> wet sanded again to remove/hide/fill the last bits of milling tool
> marks and applied 2 more fully wet coats of Tuff-Sheen for a nice,
> smooth rust free finish. Even though the paint hasn't fully cured, I've
> made a few small cuts on some smaller stock and can tell the differance
> already.
> Just so you know it will take about 4 to 6 weeks to fully cure and I'm
> almost half way there but I can tell that it will be worth it so I dont
> have to worry about rust or milling marks grabbing and pulling my wood
> stock.
>
Gary wrote:
> Soooooooo.... I'm wondering what the experts here recommend for further
> tabletop care.... I'm looking for advice on what I've done already (PLEASE
> don't tell me that I screwed it up! LOL) as well as advice for daily care.
> The owner's manual that came with the saw suggests paste wax, but I dunno if
> that's the best idea out there.
It's as good as any. I've used Boeshield with good luck but frankly, nothing
seems to last as long as plain old Johnson's Paste Wax.
> I would imagine that anything good for tablesaw top care would apply equally
> to my bandsaw and jointer.... Am I wrong?
Not at all. I treat them all the same. As somebody else already pointed out,
just avoid products containing silicon.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com