Thank you.
In fairness, however, wood does have a tendency to take a "set," a
characteristic we take advantage of in bending. Trouble is, unless it is
restrained properly, it will return to close to the unrestrained state after
a few cycles.
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> >
> > In the past I've used a heat gun on the convex side of finished
> > material that had bowed and that worked well.
> >
> > The trick is to get it as soon as it goes flat and then put extra
> > finish on the convex side, to keep it from re-absorbing moisture and
> > returning to it's bowed state.
> >
>
> Doesn't that just postpone the return of the board to its preferred
> state (bowed)?
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 05:33:02 GMT, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Doesn't that just postpone the return of the board to its preferred
>state (bowed)?
In the first instance I was only interested in getting the cup out of
the raised panel blank long enough to machine the bevel. The frame
was enough to restrain the cup once the panel was inserted.
In the second instance, spraying the formerly convex side of the panel
with two extra coats of finish seems to have worked fine.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:13:39 -0800, JP wrote:
> I read recently that traditional Japanese furniture makers use water
> on cupped boards and/or hold the boards over fire to straighten out.
> Anyone have any info on this process? It seems like a nice way to
> avoid wasting valuable wood.
I've managed it with a spray bottle of water and a portable electric
heater with a fan. Timing is everything :-)
-Doug
On 14 Nov 2003 10:13:39 -0800, [email protected] (JP) wrote:
>I read recently that traditional Japanese furniture makers use water
>on cupped boards and/or hold the boards over fire to straighten out.
>Anyone have any info on this process? It seems like a nice way to
>avoid wasting valuable wood.
I just took the cup out of a couple of raised panels this morning by
painting some water onto the concave side then sitting the piece
concave-side-down on the laminate clad top of the outfeed table.
About a half hour later the pieces had straightened out enough to be
machined.
In the past I've used a heat gun on the convex side of finished
material that had bowed and that worked well.
The trick is to get it as soon as it goes flat and then put extra
finish on the convex side, to keep it from re-absorbing moisture and
returning to it's bowed state.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On 14 Nov 2003 10:13:39 -0800, [email protected] (JP) wrote:
>
> >I read recently that traditional Japanese furniture makers use water
> >on cupped boards and/or hold the boards over fire to straighten out.
> >Anyone have any info on this process? It seems like a nice way to
> >avoid wasting valuable wood.
>
>
> I just took the cup out of a couple of raised panels this morning by
> painting some water onto the concave side then sitting the piece
> concave-side-down on the laminate clad top of the outfeed table.
>
> About a half hour later the pieces had straightened out enough to be
> machined.
>
> In the past I've used a heat gun on the convex side of finished
> material that had bowed and that worked well.
>
> The trick is to get it as soon as it goes flat and then put extra
> finish on the convex side, to keep it from re-absorbing moisture and
> returning to it's bowed state.
>
Doesn't that just postpone the return of the board to its preferred
state (bowed)?