On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?
Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 27 Aug 2012 03:30:40 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:zq-
>>>[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before
>>>> making changes, another picture of yourself after making changes,
>>>> post on line for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement
>>>> after the modification!. :~O
>>>
>>>Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are
>>>of terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally
>>>getting noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough
>>>medicine every 4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.
>>
>> Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
>> coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!
>>
>> (From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )
>>
>> "Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
>> helpful and should NOT be used."
>
>Well, at the advice of my doctor, I do use cough medicine -
>expectorent/cough suppressant guanefesin/dextromethorphan, as well as
>menthol cough drops. They help because my lungs are/were full of slime
>that made me get "paroxysmal" coughing fits. The expectorant especially
>helps get the stuff loose. But I'm going to see a pulmonologist next
>week to get a better opinion.
Good idea.
>One thing the link points out is that everyone should get a "The Tdap
>vaccine should be given around age 11 or 12, and every 10 years
>thereafter." <http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0004586/>
>It says it is for adults 19 to 64. I've had tetanus shots at least every
>10 years, but apparently not Tdap. As soon as I am really healthy I'm
>going to get it. NOTE: There are many different strains of pertussis.
>The "normal" immunity one gets is against a surface antigen on the
>bacterium that mutates like flu. The vaccine is against an intracellular
>componenet that is essential for all pertussis. But it wears off after
>10 yearsa.
Jeeze, I haven't had any innoculations in at least 30 years, I don't
think. I had the full set(s) as a kid, but none since my teen years
that I can remember.
I got a flu shot once and got a bad case of the flu from it, so I
don't do that any more. <sigh>
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
> is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
>
*snip*
I think all the UL certification means is that their test unit did what the
package said it would and when it failed it didn't fail too dangerously.
Testing things until failure is a fun job, that's why so many of us do it
for free. *g*
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
> On topic!
> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
> off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
> problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
> altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
> It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
> been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
> the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
> microswitches on the dustgates?
Absolutely not!
>
> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
> switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>
> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>
You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total control
and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor plug
directly into the remote.
On 27 Aug 2012 17:10:46 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Right, they don't cure, just remove an effect (hurting) and symptom or
>> response (coughing). And they are very good at that. Moreover, that
>> in itself is useful when you are hacking so much that your throat
>> and/or chest feels raw and sore. I always pick up a bunch to bring
>> home when I am in Mexico even though I rarely get colds in the US.
>
>The first few years in the US were pretty good. Then whatever makes me
>allergic caught up with me (hayfever type stuff). Here in Fair Lawn, I am
>lucky. I found out that the Swiss Pork Store also has "katjesdrop", a kind
>of Dutch/German licorice, which is very soothing and liquefying. A 3 min
>bicycle ride away.
A 3 min ride -when- you can breathe? 25 minutes now?
And speaking of Swiss comfort, have you tried Ricola cough drops? I
like 'em, but I don't have pertussis. http://www.ricola.com/en-us
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> A 3 min ride -when- you can breathe? 25 minutes now?
>
> And speaking of Swiss comfort, have you tried Ricola cough drops? I
> like 'em, but I don't have pertussis. http://www.ricola.com/en-us
It's much easier to sit and gently move your legs on a bicycl than to walk
the same distance. Cooler too. Ricola is OK, but too expensive. Halls is
fine for me.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 14:33:57 -0400, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
>On 8/26/2012 11:25 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On 26 Aug 2012 13:24:13 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
>> glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
>> I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
>> blast gate every time I turn them on.
>
>I put all my blast gates at workbench height. That way I don't have to
>lean down. There's no point to having to lean down all the time... just
>sucks.
I have them as close to the tools as possible, though I guess with my new shop
I can change that. I'm planning on keeping the DC in a central location to
minimize hose length to the tools, though.
>
>I guess one could put both systems in
>> series.
>>
>> The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
>> SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
>> opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.
Thinking about it, the above isn't true (there is only one cord). They just
come on at different times.
On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:
> tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
>> forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it
>> on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns
>> on.
>
> That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment
> (semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That
> makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V
> version) to go back to.
>
>> I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
>> works well.
>
> That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited
> electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to
> explain more, please?
>
Han see my images at http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0
All the brass is, is sheet brass cut with a scissor and soldered to
wire. The brass can be had at Ace Hardware or a hobby shop.
The aluminum tape is basically tape for sealing HVAC ducts.
The rest should be self explanatory.
This wires into a relay so the wires are all low voltage.
The relay is what trips the 120VAC..
My gates are self cleaning, it works, occasionaly I have to touch the
brass to bend it out.. but I didn't spend a lot and I didn't want dust
to mess with the micro switches. This works as well or better.
On 8/26/2012 11:25 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On 26 Aug 2012 13:24:13 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
> glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
> I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
> blast gate every time I turn them on.
I put all my blast gates at workbench height. That way I don't have to
lean down. There's no point to having to lean down all the time... just
sucks.
I guess one could put both systems in
> series.
>
> The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
> SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
> opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.
>
On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:
> tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
>> forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it
>> on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns
>> on.
>
> That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment
> (semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That
> makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V
> version) to go back to.
>
>> I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
>> works well.
>
> That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited
> electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to
> explain more, please?
>
I'll take a picture.. piece of cake.
Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring
broke by corrosion.
Martin
On 8/25/2012 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
>> On topic!
>> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>> turn it
>> off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
>> problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped
>> working
>> altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now
>> "loose".
>> It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly
>> ever
>> been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
>> the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
>> microswitches on the dustgates?
>
> Absolutely not!
>
>
>>
>> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
>> switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>>
>> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>
>
>
> You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total control
> and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor plug
> directly into the remote.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
>> On topic!
>> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>> turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
>> increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
>> stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
>> motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
>> that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
>> Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or
>> with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the
>> dustgates?
>
> Absolutely not!
Thanks! I didn't think so either ...
>> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>> replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this
>> ...
>>
>> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>
> You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
> control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor
> plug directly into the remote.
The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I
like that idea.
Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
unplugged for a few hours?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 27 Aug 2012 15:10:49 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 8/27/2012 9:16 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> Do some research on the polio vaccine and see if you can tell me
>>>> that you believe in it 100% afterward.
>>> ...
>>>
>>> Whatever the site says or the research shows vaccination's a heckuva
>>> a lot better than not...I'm old enough I recall at least three grade
>>> school friends who weren't so lucky as to have gotten it (the Salk
>>> vaccine) in time and a young lady in an iron lung who got there at
>>> age 17 for the rest of her life...
>>>
>>> There wouldn't be the recent outbreak of whooping cough if it
>>> weren't for the yuppies who aren't old enough to remember what
>>> things were like before widespread vaccination. :(
>>>
>>> If it were only their kids they put at risk I'd say it's good
>>> Darwinism but it's the rest of the population as well.
>>
>>What pisses me off is that I didn't know that whooping cough and
>>diphteria are on the same list as tetanus and you have to get a
>>booster every 10 years. The tetanus I've gotten regularly, but
>>apparently not all tetanus shots have D and P in them, or the shot I
>>got almost exactly 10 years ago has stopped given me protection.
>>
>>Guys, get your Tdap ...
>
> Or not?
>
> http://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/pubs/vis/downloads/vis-td-tdap.pdf
> #4 in that list is as follows:
> "4 Some people should not be vaccinated or should wait
>
> Anyone who has had a life-threatening allergic reaction after a dose
> of any tetanus, diphtheria, or pertussis containing vaccine should not
> get Td or Tdap.
>
> Anyone who has a severe allergy to any component of a vaccine should
> not get that vaccine. Tell your doctor if the person getting the
> vaccine has any severe allergies.
>
> Anyone who had a coma, or long or multiple seizures within 7 days
> after a dose of DTP or DTaP should not get Tdap, unless a cause other
> than the vaccine was found. These people may get Td."
>
> (Wow, such mellow potential risks...)
>
> and
>
> http://www.cdc.gov/MMWr/preview/mmwrhtml/ss5203a1.htm
>
> 43 cases per annum in USA (300M population), 96% decrease since 1947.
>
> 8 of 50 patients who had received 3+ vaccinations and had had one
> within ten years still got it by being stupid.
>
>
> and
>
> http://www.cdc.gov/pertussis/outbreaks.html
> Why is pertussis so prevalent despite vaccinations? ~28k per annum
> here in USA!
Seems to me the usual caveats, and a very good record. Of course I don't
go swimming wearing my lead underwear and lead shoes.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 27 Aug 2012 15:10:49 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 8/27/2012 9:16 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> Do some research on the polio vaccine and see if you can tell me that
>>> you believe in it 100% afterward.
>> ...
>>
>> Whatever the site says or the research shows vaccination's a heckuva a
>> lot better than not...I'm old enough I recall at least three grade
>> school friends who weren't so lucky as to have gotten it (the Salk
>> vaccine) in time and a young lady in an iron lung who got there at age
>> 17 for the rest of her life...
>>
>> There wouldn't be the recent outbreak of whooping cough if it weren't
>> for the yuppies who aren't old enough to remember what things were like
>> before widespread vaccination. :(
>>
>> If it were only their kids they put at risk I'd say it's good Darwinism
>> but it's the rest of the population as well.
>
>What pisses me off is that I didn't know that whooping cough and
>diphteria are on the same list as tetanus and you have to get a booster
>every 10 years. The tetanus I've gotten regularly, but apparently not
>all tetanus shots have D and P in them, or the shot I got almost exactly
>10 years ago has stopped given me protection.
>
>Guys, get your Tdap ...
Or not?
http://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/pubs/vis/downloads/vis-td-tdap.pdf
#4 in that list is as follows:
"4 Some people should not be vaccinated or should wait
Anyone who has had a life-threatening allergic reaction after a dose
of any tetanus, diphtheria, or pertussis containing vaccine should not
get Td or Tdap.
Anyone who has a severe allergy to any component of a vaccine should
not get that vaccine. Tell your doctor if the person getting the
vaccine has any severe allergies.
Anyone who had a coma, or long or multiple seizures within 7 days
after a dose of DTP or DTaP should not get Tdap, unless a cause other
than the vaccine was found. These people may get Td."
(Wow, such mellow potential risks...)
and
http://www.cdc.gov/MMWr/preview/mmwrhtml/ss5203a1.htm
43 cases per annum in USA (300M population), 96% decrease since 1947.
8 of 50 patients who had received 3+ vaccinations and had had one
within ten years still got it by being stupid.
and
http://www.cdc.gov/pertussis/outbreaks.html
Why is pertussis so prevalent despite vaccinations? ~28k per annum
here in USA!
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On topic!
>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>>canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>>turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
>>increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
>>stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
>>motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
>>that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
>>Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with
>>my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
>
> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem.
> More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by
> *using* the remote switch.
>
>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
>>switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>
> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
> is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
>
>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>
> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
> Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 25 Aug 2012 19:36:45 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
>>>> On topic!
>>>> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
>>>> Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
>>>> precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately
>>>> there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off,
>>>> and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that
>>>> the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and
>>>> off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to
>>>> turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the
>>>> Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
>>>> microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>
>>> Absolutely not!
>>
>>Thanks! I didn't think so either ...
>>
>>>> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>> replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
>>>> this ...
>>>>
>>>> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>
>>> You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
>>> control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the
>>> motor plug directly into the remote.
>>
>>The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
>>governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether?
>>I like that idea.
>
> You don't want to open the switch. You want to *short* it. ;-)
>
>>Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
>>motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
>>unplugged for a few hours?
>
> As long as you unplug the unit first, no. ;-) There is no energy
> stored (for any time) in that capacitor. It's too small to do any
> damage, anyway.
Thanks, more in another reply, pls, Keith
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On topic!
>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>>>canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>>>turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
>>>increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
>>>stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
>>>motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
>>>that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
>>>Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with
>>>my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
>>
>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem.
>> More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by
>> *using* the remote switch.
>>
>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
>>>switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>>
>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
>> is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
>>
>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>
>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
>> Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
>
> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.
I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one of
the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the switch
wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got power. My
electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover the opening.
(I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and off)
More later ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
>>8.17.249.100:
>>
>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On topic!
>>>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
>>>>>Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
>>>>>precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately
>>>>>there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off,
>>>>>and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that
>>>>>the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on
>>>>>and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to
>>>>>turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the
>>>>>Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
>>>>>microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>>
>>>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
>>>> problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier
>>>> death by *using* the remote switch.
>>>>
>>>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>>>replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
>>>>>this ...
>>>>
>>>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
>>>> stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
>>>> ass.
>>>>
>>>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>>
>>>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
>>>> Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>>>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>>>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
>>>
>>> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
>>> suggested.
>>
>>I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one
>>of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the
>>switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got
>>power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover
>>the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and
>>off)
>
> Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
> wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there.
> I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
>
>>More later ...
>
> Please.
OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that,
especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor
powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...
I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
kind of remote you use (if any).
Now I have to make dinner.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Han <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
>>>8.17.249.100:
>>>
>>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>On topic!
>>>>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
>>>>>>Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
>>>>>>precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote.
>>>>>>Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on
>>>>>>and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One
>>>>>>problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It
>>>>>>doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has
>>>>>>hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have
>>>>>>damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my
>>>>>>previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>>>
>>>>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
>>>>> problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier
>>>>> death by *using* the remote switch.
>>>>>
>>>>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>>>>replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
>>>>>>this ...
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
>>>>> stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
>>>>> ass.
>>>>>
>>>>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>>>
>>>>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
>>>>> Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>>>>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>>>>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the
>>>>> time.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
>>>> suggested.
>>>
>>>I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one
>>>of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the
>>>switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got
>>>power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and
>>>cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC
>>>on and off)
>>
>> Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
>> wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not
>> there.
>> I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
>>
>>>More later ...
>>
>> Please.
>
> OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
> them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at
> that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the
> first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet
> is in place ...
>
> I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
> and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
> dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
> remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to
> keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized
> the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you
> guys what kind of remote you use (if any).
> Now I have to make dinner.
Pictures turned out bad, sorry.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 25 Aug 2012 21:44:04 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
>>>>8.17.249.100:
>>>>
>>>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>On topic!
>>>>>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
>>>>>>>Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
>>>>>>>precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote.
>>>>>>>Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on
>>>>>>>and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One
>>>>>>>problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It
>>>>>>>doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has
>>>>>>>hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have
>>>>>>>damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my
>>>>>>>previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
>>>>>> problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an
>>>>>> earlier death by *using* the remote switch.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>>>>>replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
>>>>>>>this ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
>>>>>> stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
>>>>>> ass.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have
>>>>>> a Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>>>>>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>>>>>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the
>>>>>> time.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
>>>>> suggested.
>>>>
>>>>I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and
>>>>one of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so
>>>>the switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time
>>>>it got power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires
>>>>and cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn
>>>>the DC on and off)
>>>
>>> Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
>>> wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not
>>> there.
>>> I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
>>>
>>>>More later ...
>>>
>>> Please.
>>
>>OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
>>them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at
>>that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the
>>first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet
>>is in place ...
>>
>>I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
>>and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
>>dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
>>remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to
>>keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized
>>the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you
>>guys what kind of remote you use (if any).
>
> I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LR220-3.html
>
> To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC2000B.html
>
> and an iSwitch:
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17351&site=ROCKLER
>
> on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-mini-dust-collector-94029.html
>
>
>>Now I have to make dinner.
Pls see answer to "tiredofspam"
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
> forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it
> on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns
> on.
That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment
(semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That
makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V
version) to go back to.
> I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
> works well.
That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited
electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to
explain more, please?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:zq-
[email protected]:
> But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making
> changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line
> for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the
> modification!. :~O
Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are of
terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally getting
noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough medicine every
4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Han wrote:
>
>> Pictures turned out bad, sorry.
>
> Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows
> immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do
> whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.
Working in a cramped space. Some looked acceptable when I took them,
others I couldn't get better. Description of what I found and did:
The switch on the DC (Harbor freight 2 HP model 45378) looks very sturdy
from the outside. I unplugged the machine for a few hours before
proceeding, just in case the capacitor would ring my bell (deemed very
unlikely by Keith here).
2 screws hold the plate with the switch in place. Unscrewed them.
Lifted the plate and used the end of a screwdriver to release the clips
holding the switch. There were 4 wires to the switch, 2 black, 2 white.
I removed the wires from the switch. Don't know what the push-on
connectors are called.
I opened the switch, and looked at the contacts (it just fell apart when
you open it). One of the contacts had at least 1 mm of "crud" on it,
presumable from sparking when the switch closed, or power was applied (I
had the switch always on "on" and used a remote to apply power).
I threw the bad parts of the switch out. Then I wirenutted the black
wires together, as well as the white (to "bypass" the switch). I put the
defunct switch into the cover plate to fill the hole in the cover plate,
and screwed it back in place on top of the switch "box". Covered it with
duct tape to remind myself of the proceedings and prevent any flood
waters from getting in (lot of good that'll do in a real flood).
Everything works fine.
Thanks for you guys' advice and interest!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm
> working. I glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast
> iron on the tools I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around
> and bend down to open the blast gate every time I turn them on. I
> guess one could put both systems in series.
Great suggestion of magnets!! Will do soonest.
> The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection
> on the SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS
> switch. Each are on opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a
> problem.
That was a problem with the toolswitch thingy from Sears I had, tripping.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:zq-
>>[email protected]:
>>
>>> But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before
>>> making changes, another picture of yourself after making changes,
>>> post on line for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement
>>> after the modification!. :~O
>>
>>Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are
>>of terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally
>>getting noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough
>>medicine every 4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.
>
> Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
> coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!
>
> (From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )
>
> "Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
> helpful and should NOT be used."
Well, at the advice of my doctor, I do use cough medicine -
expectorent/cough suppressant guanefesin/dextromethorphan, as well as
menthol cough drops. They help because my lungs are/were full of slime
that made me get "paroxysmal" coughing fits. The expectorant especially
helps get the stuff loose. But I'm going to see a pulmonologist next
week to get a better opinion.
One thing the link points out is that everyone should get a "The Tdap
vaccine should be given around age 11 or 12, and every 10 years
thereafter." <http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0004586/>
It says it is for adults 19 to 64. I've had tetanus shots at least every
10 years, but apparently not Tdap. As soon as I am really healthy I'm
going to get it. NOTE: There are many different strains of pertussis.
The "normal" immunity one gets is against a surface antigen on the
bacterium that mutates like flu. The vaccine is against an intracellular
componenet that is essential for all pertussis. But it wears off after
10 yearsa.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote in news:BLA_r.636922
[email protected]:
> Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring
> broke by corrosion.
My basement is fairly dry. I think the switch was low quality, and arcing
killed it, but of course my basement in NJ isn't the same as the Arizona
desert.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:
>> tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
>>> forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn
>>> it on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it
>>> turns on.
>>
>> That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the
>> moment (semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final
>> places. That makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long
>> Ranger (110V version) to go back to.
>>
>>> I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
>>> works well.
>>
>> That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with
>> limited electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you
>> care to explain more, please?
>>
> Han see my images at http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0
>
> All the brass is, is sheet brass cut with a scissor and soldered to
> wire. The brass can be had at Ace Hardware or a hobby shop.
>
> The aluminum tape is basically tape for sealing HVAC ducts.
> The rest should be self explanatory.
>
> This wires into a relay so the wires are all low voltage.
> The relay is what trips the 120VAC..
>
> My gates are self cleaning, it works, occasionaly I have to touch the
> brass to bend it out.. but I didn't spend a lot and I didn't want dust
> to mess with the micro switches. This works as well or better.
Thanks! link is bookmarked, but I may not even need it anymore. Indeed
simple.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
> DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
> to turn it on off?
>
Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I had
<grin>.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Jeeze, I haven't had any innoculations in at least 30 years, I don't
> think. I had the full set(s) as a kid, but none since my teen years
> that I can remember.
>
> I got a flu shot once and got a bad case of the flu from it, so I
> don't do that any more. <sigh>
You're not supposed to take the flu shot if you have even a little cold.
Larry, I think you want to talk to your doctor about booster shots. Since
I am retired, I can afford to be sick for more than 2 months with whooping
cough, though I'd rather not. As a selfemployed person, you may not like
to be less than 50% (or even less) for such a length of time. If you start
panting after climbing 1 set of stairs ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Just a wild guess, but could you have installed the relay way back
> when _because_ the on/off switch felt funny? I've done things like
> that before, then forgotten why.
At the moment, and since installing, the DC is in a far corner, out of the
way. The remote is more convenience so I don't have to walk around
everything, than the switch feeling funny. I am reorganizing the shop. I
may follow the suggestion from someone else here (I forgot whom, sorry!),
and put the dang thing more central to reduce piping length.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
>>> DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
>>> to turn it on off?
>>>
>>
>>Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>>wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I
>>had <grin>.
>
> Didn't that hurt?
Not really, they were leftovers from a bygone era ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 27 Aug 2012 11:43:48 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Jeeze, I haven't had any innoculations in at least 30 years, I don't
>>> think. I had the full set(s) as a kid, but none since my teen years
>>> that I can remember.
>>>
>>> I got a flu shot once and got a bad case of the flu from it, so I
>>> don't do that any more. <sigh>
>>
>>You're not supposed to take the flu shot if you have even a little
>>cold.
>
> I wasn't sick -before- the bloody shot.
>
>
>>Larry, I think you want to talk to your doctor about booster shots.
>>Since I am retired, I can afford to be sick for more than 2 months
>>with whooping cough, though I'd rather not. As a selfemployed person,
>>you may not like to be less than 50% (or even less) for such a length
>>of time. If you start panting after climbing 1 set of stairs ...
>
> Yeah, I hear that. But the idiots in charge are using lots of
> live-virus shots nowadays and the side effects are tremendously
> numerous. I think it's a crap shoot either way. <sigh>
> Sites like this http://www.relfe.com/vaccine.html give me pause.
> Do some research on the polio vaccine and see if you can tell me that
> you believe in it 100% afterward.
Everything has side effects. Diphteria, Tetanus and Pertussis are
bacteria, so there is no talk about live virus. Virus =/= bacterium. I
believe that D and T are derived from the capsule/cell wall, but the
pertussis is "acellular" (the "a" in Tdap). I asked whether anyone had
experience with the shot of this triple combo on FB, and 1 lady answered.
She felt flu-like for less than a day (got the shot in the morning, took
off from work by noon, was better the next day). No one else reported
anything (to me).
The current upswing in especially socalled childhood diseases such as
whooping cough, measles, mumps and rubella is a direct result of people
refusing to have their children vaccinated. For an epidemic to occur,
there has to be a population of susceptible patients. 1 person
susceptible does not give rise to an epidemic, "just" someone who gets
sick. But when 10% of people (don't know the required minimum, maybe
just 2 or 5%) are susceptible, it only takes one arrival with the disease
to make an epidemic. Larry, you living by yourself on a far away
mountain are safe. Me living near a crowded area, not so much. Not that
far away from here are communities who think (perhaps like you) that
vaccination is abhorrent. So we regularly have outbreaks of preventable
diseases. It's inexcusable, and I feel horrible to have exposed people
whom I love to the risk. My son got antibiotics and it made his gout
flare up. Hopefully it weighs against getting sick for 2 or 3 months.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> When I lived in Mexico, just about everybody wound up with a cold and
> a cough in the winter. All the farmacias had a cough tablet that
> really stopped coughing. Fast. Graneodin (gra-nay-o-DEEN) was the
> name, they contained benzocine. I have no idea if they are legal in
> the US but if you have any latin population you might check at a
> farmacia latina.
found this: <http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview/id/334996.html>
Somewhere in there it says "active ingredient - Benzocaine", so I think
you only missed an "a" <grin>.
That is an anesthetic, so the throat doesn't hurt anymore. I don't think
it treats the cause (sometimes that doesn't matter, as when you have a
virus, because you have to kill that by your immune mechanisms - there
are few really effective antiviral medications). In my case,it is the
mucus that the pertussis (bacterial) infection has caused. For some
reason the mucus generation persists long after you or your antibiotics
have killed the pertussis.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 27 Aug 2012 11:47:19 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of
>>>>> the DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote
>>>>> control to turn it on off?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>>>>wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts
>>>>I had <grin>.
>>>
>>> Didn't that hurt?
>>
>>Not really, they were leftovers from a bygone era ...
>
> That's the saddest thing I've heard around here for a loooooong time.
> R.I.P. Hannuts.
No reason for RIP, they are doing the job those wire nuts were designed
for, they were just leftovers from some project long ago.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 8/27/2012 9:16 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> ...
>
>> Do some research on the polio vaccine and see if you can tell me that
>> you believe in it 100% afterward.
> ...
>
> Whatever the site says or the research shows vaccination's a heckuva a
> lot better than not...I'm old enough I recall at least three grade
> school friends who weren't so lucky as to have gotten it (the Salk
> vaccine) in time and a young lady in an iron lung who got there at age
> 17 for the rest of her life...
>
> There wouldn't be the recent outbreak of whooping cough if it weren't
> for the yuppies who aren't old enough to remember what things were like
> before widespread vaccination. :(
>
> If it were only their kids they put at risk I'd say it's good Darwinism
> but it's the rest of the population as well.
What pisses me off is that I didn't know that whooping cough and
diphteria are on the same list as tetanus and you have to get a booster
every 10 years. The tetanus I've gotten regularly, but apparently not
all tetanus shots have D and P in them, or the shot I got almost exactly
10 years ago has stopped given me protection.
Guys, get your Tdap ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Right, they don't cure, just remove an effect (hurting) and symptom or
> response (coughing). And they are very good at that. Moreover, that
> in itself is useful when you are hacking so much that your throat
> and/or chest feels raw and sore. I always pick up a bunch to bring
> home when I am in Mexico even though I rarely get colds in the US.
The first few years in the US were pretty good. Then whatever makes me
allergic caught up with me (hayfever type stuff). Here in Fair Lawn, I am
lucky. I found out that the Swiss Pork Store also has "katjesdrop", a kind
of Dutch/German licorice, which is very soothing and liquefying. A 3 min
bicycle ride away.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Han wrote:
>> Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 27 Aug 2012 11:47:19 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of
>>>>>>> the DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote
>>>>>>> control to turn it on off?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>>>>>> wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the
>>>>>> nuts I had <grin>.
>>>>>
>>>>> Didn't that hurt?
>>>>
>>>> Not really, they were leftovers from a bygone era ...
>>>
>>> That's the saddest thing I've heard around here for a loooooong time.
>>> R.I.P. Hannuts.
>>
>> No reason for RIP, they are doing the job those wire nuts were
>> designed for, they were just leftovers from some project long ago.
>
> Good use but you did get the implication (and difference) between your
> original "nuts" and "wire nuts". right? OTOH, maybe you *did* and they
> really *are* <sob> leftovers from a bygone era. It does happen...
When I notice a possibility for a pun, I try to grab the chance. Is that
a pun too? I could go on, but this is enough, I think.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 25 Aug 2012 21:44:04 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
>>>8.17.249.100:
>>>
>>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>On topic!
>>>>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
>>>>>>Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
>>>>>>precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately
>>>>>>there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off,
>>>>>>and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that
>>>>>>the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on
>>>>>>and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to
>>>>>>turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the
>>>>>>Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
>>>>>>microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>>>
>>>>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
>>>>> problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier
>>>>> death by *using* the remote switch.
>>>>>
>>>>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>>>>replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
>>>>>>this ...
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
>>>>> stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
>>>>> ass.
>>>>>
>>>>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>>>
>>>>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
>>>>> Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>>>>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>>>>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
>>>> suggested.
>>>
>>>I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one
>>>of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the
>>>switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got
>>>power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover
>>>the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and
>>>off)
>>
>> Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
>> wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there.
>> I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
>>
>>>More later ...
>>
>> Please.
>
>OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
>them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that,
>especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor
>powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...
>
>I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
>and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
>dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
>remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
>pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
>setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
>kind of remote you use (if any).
I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LR220-3.html
To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC2000B.html
and an iSwitch:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17351&site=ROCKLER
on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-mini-dust-collector-94029.html
>Now I have to make dinner.
On 25 Aug 2012 19:36:45 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
>>> On topic!
>>> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>>> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>>> turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
>>> increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
>>> stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
>>> motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
>>> that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
>>> Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or
>>> with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the
>>> dustgates?
>>
>> Absolutely not!
>
>Thanks! I didn't think so either ...
>
>>> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>> replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this
>>> ...
>>>
>>> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>
>> You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
>> control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor
>> plug directly into the remote.
>
>The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
>governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I
>like that idea.
You don't want to open the switch. You want to *short* it. ;-)
>Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
>motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
>unplugged for a few hours?
As long as you unplug the unit first, no. ;-) There is no energy stored (for
any time) in that capacitor. It's too small to do any damage, anyway.
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I go with the generics from the local stores. Halls is too expensive.
> Ricola goes on sale occasionally, so that's when I buy it. Herbal
> stuff is always more expensive.
Used to buy the CVS equivalent. Don't like it. Back to Halls. I've alos
just bought some menthol crystals (web, ~$12 for a lifetime supply, 8 oz).
Put a pinch in a wide container of near boiling water and sniff the vapors.
Instant congestion relief. Menthol (vapors) are the ctive substance in
Halls and in Vicks Vaporub, but the steam enhances the relief.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 27 Aug 2012 23:05:02 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> A 3 min ride -when- you can breathe? 25 minutes now?
>>
>> And speaking of Swiss comfort, have you tried Ricola cough drops? I
>> like 'em, but I don't have pertussis. http://www.ricola.com/en-us
>
>It's much easier to sit and gently move your legs on a bicycl than to walk
>the same distance. Cooler too. Ricola is OK, but too expensive. Halls is
>fine for me.
I go with the generics from the local stores. Halls is too expensive.
Ricola goes on sale occasionally, so that's when I buy it. Herbal
stuff is always more expensive.
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
On 27 Aug 2012 11:47:19 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
>>>> DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
>>>> to turn it on off?
>>>>
>>>
>>>Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>>>wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I
>>>had <grin>.
>>
>> Didn't that hurt?
>
>Not really, they were leftovers from a bygone era ...
I really didn't want to get into your personal life, Han.
On 26 Aug 2012 02:16:02 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>*snip*
>
>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
>> is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
>>
>
>*snip*
>
>I think all the UL certification means is that their test unit did what the
>package said it would and when it failed it didn't fail too dangerously.
I don't think it's tested at all.
>Testing things until failure is a fun job, that's why so many of us do it
>for free. *g*
I find designing things so they don't fail to be more rewarding. ;-) I don't
know if you've ever dealt with UL but they are a RPITA.
No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control to turn it on off?
al
On Saturday, August 25, 2012 2:55:25 PM UTC-4, Han wrote:
> On topic!
>
> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>
> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
>
> off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
>
> problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
>
> altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
>
> It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
>
> been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
>
> the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
>
> microswitches on the dustgates?
>
>
>
> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
>
> switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>
>
>
> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>
>
>
> --
>
> Best regards
>
> Han
>
> email address is invalid
On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
>> DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
>> to turn it on off?
>>
>
>Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I had
><grin>.
Didn't that hurt?
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 15:44:04 -0600, Han wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> Since I still haven't finalized the shop
> setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
> kind of remote you use (if any).
> Now I have to make dinner.
>
I've only ever used the 220V Long Ranger on my 2HP cyclone. Never any
problems except 'pocket dialing' on occasion when I have it clipped to my
pocket and bump into something.
-Bruce
On 8/25/2012 4:44 PM, Han wrote:
...
> I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
> and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
> dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
> remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
> pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
> setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
> kind of remote you use (if any).
...
I just finished swapping out the initial hard switch on the DC for a
motor starter for the primary express purpose of adding an umbilical
cord w/ a remote control station can just carry around.
In doing so, I had enough room in the starter box to move the motor
start capacitor out of the little switch box on the machine and so still
have just a single box there w/ local start/stop plus the remote that
goes where ever I want it at the time...
The beauty of the magnetic starter is you can add an unlimited number of
remote control stations simply w/ the cost of a much cheaper low-current
wire run than any of the remotes and it's rock-solid reliable. Add a
time delay relay in the off side at the controller and you can have the
delayed-off as well.
Once I get the final location on the fixed equipment I'll add the DC and
their control stations as a unit operation. Here's link to a handy set
of logic diagrams to allow you to set up controls as desired...
<http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&dID=223191>
You can use either a 2-wire or run 3-wire control for the remote
station--see Fig 1 and 2 at the attached; I had an old start control on
hand so went 3-wire here.
The setup is shown in Fig 10 (p 9) for a single-phase starter; the
various remote options are shown in following pages using three-phase
but for single phase just toss out L3. (All the starters I have are
actually 3-phase because I found a whole passel of used Rockwell
starters cheap taken from a bunch of old Rockwell-Delta planers at an
auction so I bought a dozen of 'em for $20.)
The diagram for the setup here is Fig 14 (p 11) altho it'll look more
like Fig 18 (p 13) eventually when go to the multiple start from single
station(s)...
NB that the key to all this is the logic diagram -- "Start" are in
parallel; "Stop" in series.
--
Han wrote:
> Pictures turned out bad, sorry.
Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows
immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do
whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Han wrote:
> Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:zq-
>>> [email protected]:
>>>
>>>> But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before
>>>> making changes, another picture of yourself after making changes,
>>>> post on line for us to valuate. You may not be using good
>>>> judgement after the modification!. :~O
>>>
>>> Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they
>>> are of terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally,
>>> finally getting noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still
>>> need cough medicine every 4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.
>>
>> Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
>> coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!
>>
>> (From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )
>>
>> "Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
>> helpful and should NOT be used."
>
> Well, at the advice of my doctor, I do use cough medicine -
> expectorent/cough suppressant guanefesin/dextromethorphan, as well as
> menthol cough drops. They help because my lungs are/were full of
> slime that made me get "paroxysmal" coughing fits. The expectorant
> especially helps get the stuff loose. But I'm going to see a
> pulmonologist next week to get a better opinion.
When I lived in Mexico, just about everybody wound up with a cold and a
cough in the winter. All the farmacias had a cough tablet that really
stopped coughing. Fast. Graneodin (gra-nay-o-DEEN) was the name, they
contained benzocine. I have no idea if they are legal in the US but if you
have any latin population you might check at a farmacia latina.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 8/27/2012 9:16 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
...
> Do some research on the polio vaccine and see if you can tell me that
> you believe in it 100% afterward.
...
Whatever the site says or the research shows vaccination's a heckuva a
lot better than not...I'm old enough I recall at least three grade
school friends who weren't so lucky as to have gotten it (the Salk
vaccine) in time and a young lady in an iron lung who got there at age
17 for the rest of her life...
There wouldn't be the recent outbreak of whooping cough if it weren't
for the yuppies who aren't old enough to remember what things were like
before widespread vaccination. :(
If it were only their kids they put at risk I'd say it's good Darwinism
but it's the rest of the population as well.
--
Han wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> When I lived in Mexico, just about everybody wound up with a cold and
>> a cough in the winter. All the farmacias had a cough tablet that
>> really stopped coughing. Fast. Graneodin (gra-nay-o-DEEN) was the
>> name, they contained benzocine. I have no idea if they are legal in
>> the US but if you have any latin population you might check at a
>> farmacia latina.
>
> found this:
> <http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview/id/334996.html>
> Somewhere in there it says "active ingredient - Benzocaine", so I
> think you only missed an "a" <grin>.
Yeah, the damned keys keep moving and/or disappearing :)
> That is an anesthetic, so the throat doesn't hurt anymore. I don't
> think it treats the cause (sometimes that doesn't matter, as when you
> have a virus, because you have to kill that by your immune mechanisms
> - there are few really effective antiviral medications). In my
> case,it is the mucus that the pertussis (bacterial) infection has
> caused. For some reason the mucus generation persists long after you
> or your antibiotics have killed the pertussis.
Right, they don't cure, just remove an effect (hurting) and symptom or
response (coughing). And they are very good at that. Moreover, that in
itself is useful when you are hacking so much that your throat and/or chest
feels raw and sore. I always pick up a bunch to bring home when I am in
Mexico even though I rarely get colds in the US.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Han wrote:
> Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 27 Aug 2012 11:47:19 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of
>>>>>> the DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote
>>>>>> control to turn it on off?
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>>>>> wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the
>>>>> nuts I had <grin>.
>>>>
>>>> Didn't that hurt?
>>>
>>> Not really, they were leftovers from a bygone era ...
>>
>> That's the saddest thing I've heard around here for a loooooong time.
>> R.I.P. Hannuts.
>
> No reason for RIP, they are doing the job those wire nuts were
> designed for, they were just leftovers from some project long ago.
Good use but you did get the implication (and difference) between your
original "nuts" and "wire nuts". right? OTOH, maybe you *did* and they
really *are* <sob> leftovers from a bygone era. It does happen...
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Han wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Right, they don't cure, just remove an effect (hurting) and symptom
>> or response (coughing). And they are very good at that. Moreover,
>> that in itself is useful when you are hacking so much that your
>> throat and/or chest feels raw and sore. I always pick up a bunch to
>> bring home when I am in Mexico even though I rarely get colds in the
>> US.
>
> The first few years in the US were pretty good. Then whatever makes
> me allergic caught up with me (hayfever type stuff). Here in Fair
> Lawn, I am lucky. I found out that the Swiss Pork Store also has
> "katjesdrop", a kind of Dutch/German licorice, which is very soothing
> and liquefying. A 3 min bicycle ride away.
I had hay fever badly when I was young & in Indiana (40s & 50s). I solved
it by moving to Hawaii :) Later, to Mexico and finally, Florida. Never
had a problem in any of them.
When I did have it, the best thing I found was Parke Davis cough tablets.
They too were flavored with anise and had - IIRC - chloroform in them. Not
sure how they got around the volatility of it and it has been banned for
decades but it worked well. Graneodin is better though.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
>8.17.249.100:
>
>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On topic!
>>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>>>>canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>>>>turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
>>>>increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
>>>>stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
>>>>motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
>>>>that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
>>>>Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with
>>>>my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>
>>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem.
>>> More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by
>>> *using* the remote switch.
>>>
>>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
>>>>switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>>>
>>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
>>> is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
>>>
>>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>
>>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
>>> Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
>>
>> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.
>
>I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one of
>the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the switch
>wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got power. My
>electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover the opening.
>(I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and off)
Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g. wall
switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there. I never
bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
>More later ...
Please.
On 26 Aug 2012 13:24:13 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 25 Aug 2012 21:44:04 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
>>>>>8.17.249.100:
>>>>>
>>>>>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>On topic!
>>>>>>>>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
>>>>>>>>Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
>>>>>>>>precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote.
>>>>>>>>Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on
>>>>>>>>and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One
>>>>>>>>problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It
>>>>>>>>doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has
>>>>>>>>hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have
>>>>>>>>damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my
>>>>>>>>previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
>>>>>>> problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an
>>>>>>> earlier death by *using* the remote switch.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>>>>>>replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
>>>>>>>>this ...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
>>>>>>> stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
>>>>>>> ass.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have
>>>>>>> a Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
>>>>>>> half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
>>>>>>> couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the
>>>>>>> time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
>>>>>> suggested.
>>>>>
>>>>>I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and
>>>>>one of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so
>>>>>the switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time
>>>>>it got power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires
>>>>>and cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn
>>>>>the DC on and off)
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
>>>> wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not
>>>> there.
>>>> I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
>>>>
>>>>>More later ...
>>>>
>>>> Please.
>>>
>>>OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
>>>them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at
>>>that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the
>>>first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet
>>>is in place ...
>>>
>>>I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
>>>and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
>>>dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
>>>remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to
>>>keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized
>>>the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you
>>>guys what kind of remote you use (if any).
>>
>> I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
>> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LR220-3.html
>>
>> To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
>> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC2000B.html
>>
>> and an iSwitch:
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17351&site=ROCKLER
>>
>> on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-mini-dust-collector-94029.html
>>
>>
>>>Now I have to make dinner.
>
>Pls see answer to "tiredofspam"
To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
blast gate every time I turn them on. I guess one could put both systems in
series.
The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.
On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:zq-
>[email protected]:
>
>> But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making
>> changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line
>> for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the
>> modification!. :~O
>
>Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are of
>terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally getting
>noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough medicine every
>4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.
Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!
(From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )
"Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
helpful and should NOT be used."
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
On 27 Aug 2012 11:43:48 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Jeeze, I haven't had any innoculations in at least 30 years, I don't
>> think. I had the full set(s) as a kid, but none since my teen years
>> that I can remember.
>>
>> I got a flu shot once and got a bad case of the flu from it, so I
>> don't do that any more. <sigh>
>
>You're not supposed to take the flu shot if you have even a little cold.
I wasn't sick -before- the bloody shot.
>Larry, I think you want to talk to your doctor about booster shots. Since
>I am retired, I can afford to be sick for more than 2 months with whooping
>cough, though I'd rather not. As a selfemployed person, you may not like
>to be less than 50% (or even less) for such a length of time. If you start
>panting after climbing 1 set of stairs ...
Yeah, I hear that. But the idiots in charge are using lots of
live-virus shots nowadays and the side effects are tremendously
numerous. I think it's a crap shoot either way. <sigh>
Sites like this http://www.relfe.com/vaccine.html give me pause.
Do some research on the polio vaccine and see if you can tell me that
you believe in it 100% afterward.
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
On 8/25/2012 5:44 PM, Han wrote:
>
> OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
> them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that,
> especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor
> powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...
>
> I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
> and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
> dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
I have a vac with a Phil Thein type separator.. I plumbed all my small
tools. I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it on
after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns on.
I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape... works well.
I stopped using both my wireless remote control, and old style pull cord
in cieling after building the wired system.
> remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
> pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
> setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
> kind of remote you use (if any).
> Now I have to make dinner.
>
On 27 Aug 2012 03:32:20 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote in news:BLA_r.636922
>[email protected]:
>
>> Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring
>> broke by corrosion.
>
>My basement is fairly dry. I think the switch was low quality, and arcing
>killed it, but of course my basement in NJ isn't the same as the Arizona
>desert.
Just a wild guess, but could you have installed the relay way back
when _because_ the on/off switch felt funny? I've done things like
that before, then forgotten why.
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
On 27 Aug 2012 11:47:19 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Ribbit <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
>>>> DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
>>>> to turn it on off?
>>>>
>>>
>>>Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
>>>wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I
>>>had <grin>.
>>
>> Didn't that hurt?
>
>Not really, they were leftovers from a bygone era ...
That's the saddest thing I've heard around here for a loooooong time.
R.I.P. Hannuts.
--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>On topic!
>I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
>off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
>problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
>altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
>It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
>been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
>the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
>microswitches on the dustgates?
Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem. More
likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by *using* the
remote switch.
>Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
>switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff is, I
*really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
>All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a Penn State
DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a half-dozen times. I use
one of their RF remotes, instead (with a couple of transmitters). The power
switch is left ON all the time.
Han wrote:
> On topic!
> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
> off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
> problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
> altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
> It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
> been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
> the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
> microswitches on the dustgates?
>
> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
> switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
>
> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>
Did you test the Shop Fox? Mine died. Within the first week one of
the remotes died. I had to return the whole shebang to get a
replacement. Then After a few months the outlet plug on the Shop-Fox
melted! I got a better one from Grainger and wired it in. Worked
fine for a few months, then last week it just gave up the ghost.
Running a 1 hp delta dust collector.
--
G.W. Ross
Any problem can be solved with enough
dynamite! -Slappy Squirrel.
On 8/25/2012 2:58 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On 25 Aug 2012 19:36:45 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
>>>> On topic!
>>>> I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
>>>> canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
>>>> turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
>>>> increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
>>>> stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
>>>> motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
>>>> that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
>>>> Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or
>>>> with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the
>>>> dustgates?
>>>
>>> Absolutely not!
>>
>> Thanks! I didn't think so either ...
>>
>>>> Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
>>>> replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>> All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
>>>
>>> You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
>>> control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor
>>> plug directly into the remote.
>>
>> The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
>> governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I
>> like that idea.
>
> You don't want to open the switch. You want to *short* it. ;-)
Correct! "Cut" it on, LOL
>
>> Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
>> motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
>> unplugged for a few hours?
>
> As long as you unplug the unit first, no. ;-) There is no energy stored (for
> any time) in that capacitor. It's too small to do any damage, anyway.
>
But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making
changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line
for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the
modification!. :~O