Br

Ba r r y

22/02/2005 12:49 AM

Maple workbench finish?

I'm looking to put a finish on a maple workbench top. The primary
reason for the finish is to prevent glue from sticking. As the
surface needs renewing, I'd like to scrape it, refinish and move on.

I'm thinking BLO and wax.

Comments from the group?

Barry


This topic has 9 replies

bR

[email protected] (Robert Bonomi)

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

22/02/2005 12:48 PM

In article <CABSd.109387$mt.26011@fed1read03>, AAvK <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I used BLO on my beech workbench, for exactly the same reason you
>> described. I've been satisfied with the result. I never used wax on it
>> ... I had some small concern about making the surface slippery.
>
>
>Nate what about the ol' three equal parts mix? BLO, beeswax and turpentine?
>Wouldn't that be perfect for a bench?

Gotta put 'em in in the right order: Beeswax, Linseed oil, then Turpentine.

It's known as a BLT for short.

Particularly important if finishing a sandwich lay-up.

<grin>

Pn

Phisherman

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

23/02/2005 12:12 PM

BLO is fine. I'd probably use what needs to used up. Any finish will
do, but forget the wax. A glue up needs several layers of newspaper.
I resurface/refinish the workbench top once a year or every other
year.

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 00:49:03 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm looking to put a finish on a maple workbench top. The primary
>reason for the finish is to prevent glue from sticking. As the
>surface needs renewing, I'd like to scrape it, refinish and move on.
>
>I'm thinking BLO and wax.
>
>Comments from the group?
>
>Barry

AD

Andy Dingley

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

22/02/2005 1:50 AM

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 00:49:03 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm thinking BLO and wax.
>
>Comments from the group?

Linseed goes yellow in time, which always looks ugly on maple. Use
tung instead, probably a commercial "finishing oil" mix that already
has thinners and driers in it.

Then a hard wax.

These days I'm using an old 1/4" electric drill with a plastic bristle
wire brush in it. Nice old '60s drill, all metal body, but not enough
"grunt" for real drilling. It sits permanently on the shelf near the
bench and just gets used for buffing out wax polishes. Using this
instead of the usual bristle scrubbing brush I can buff out a much
harder wax than usual (twice my usual carnauba content) with mittle
effort.

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

21/02/2005 11:56 PM


> I used BLO on my beech workbench, for exactly the same reason you
> described. I've been satisfied with the result. I never used wax on it
> ... I had some small concern about making the surface slippery.


Nate what about the ol' three equal parts mix? BLO, beeswax and turpentine?
Wouldn't that be perfect for a bench?

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

22/02/2005 5:05 AM


> Gotta put 'em in in the right order: Beeswax, Linseed oil, then Turpentine.
>
> It's known as a BLT for short.
>
> Particularly important if finishing a sandwich lay-up.
>
> <grin>


munch munch munch! EEEEEYYYYUCK!

Is that how you feed all the guests in your SHOP???

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

NP

Nate Perkins

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

22/02/2005 6:29 AM

Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I'm looking to put a finish on a maple workbench top. The primary
> reason for the finish is to prevent glue from sticking. As the
> surface needs renewing, I'd like to scrape it, refinish and move on.
>
> I'm thinking BLO and wax.
>
> Comments from the group?
>
> Barry
>

I used BLO on my beech workbench, for exactly the same reason you
described. I've been satisfied with the result. I never used wax on it
... I had some small concern about making the surface slippery.

NP

Nate Perkins

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

23/02/2005 6:33 AM

"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:CABSd.109387$mt.26011@fed1read03:

>
>> I used BLO on my beech workbench, for exactly the same reason you
>> described. I've been satisfied with the result. I never used wax on
>> it ... I had some small concern about making the surface slippery.
>
>
> Nate what about the ol' three equal parts mix? BLO, beeswax and
> turpentine? Wouldn't that be perfect for a bench?
>

Sounds good to me (and I think I recall that being mentioned in the
Workbench Book). But I've never used it personally, so I can't say.

Maybe one of the more experienced guys here can comment.

SM

"Stephen M"

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

22/02/2005 2:55 PM

>
> I used BLO on my beech workbench, for exactly the same reason you
> described. I've been satisfied with the result. I never used wax on it
> ... I had some small concern about making the surface slippery.

My maple is finished with a 1:1:1 poly/BLO/thinner mix. I wax about ever
other month.

I'm very satisfied with it. Yup it's amber, but that just looks aged to me.

It sheds glue and finish drips easily. It is a bit slick, but I have never
found that to be a liability.

-Steve

b

in reply to Ba r r y on 22/02/2005 12:49 AM

21/02/2005 7:05 PM

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 00:49:03 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm looking to put a finish on a maple workbench top. The primary
>reason for the finish is to prevent glue from sticking. As the
>surface needs renewing, I'd like to scrape it, refinish and move on.
>
>I'm thinking BLO and wax.
>
>Comments from the group?
>
>Barry


classic workbench finish. just do it.


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