I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
panel inserts.
Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc. I
have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe on
poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?
How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice. I
have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when I'm
done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just want
it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
that point :~)
Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.
Bob N
Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?
I would use a poly. Your Minwax golden oak will do fine for a workbench
top. I don't think you will much color over the masonite. I finish the top
of my bench (birch) with whatever leftover polys I have.
Dave
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
> top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
> oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
> construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
> panel inserts.
>
> Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
> I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
> used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
> water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
> wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc.
> I
> have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
> the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
> base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
> stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe
> on
> poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?
>
> How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice.
> I
> have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when
> I'm
> done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just
> want
> it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
> pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
> that point :~)
>
> Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.
>
> Bob N
>
>
>
>
>
>
Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?
I would use a poly. Your Minwax golden oak will do fine for a workbench
top. I don't think you will much color over the masonite. I finish the top
of my bench (birch) with whatever leftover polys I have.
Dave
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
> top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
> oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
> construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
> panel inserts.
>
> Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
> I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
> used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
> water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
> wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc.
> I
> have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
> the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
> base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
> stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe
> on
> poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?
>
> How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice.
> I
> have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when
> I'm
> done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just
> want
> it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
> pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
> that point :~)
>
> Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.
>
> Bob N
>
>
>
>
>
>
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 06:29:15 GMT, the inscrutable Nate Perkins
<[email protected]> spake:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> I get mine from Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com
>> The Original in medium sheen is $16.99/qt. or $45.99/gal.
>>
>
>Ouch, I've been paying 26 bucks for a quart from Highland, plus shipping on
>top of that.
I ordered a gallon last night after I "talked" with you. That and
a quart of clear waterborne acrylic which I wanted to try spraying.
I don't like glosses but some folks do, so I thought I'd give it a try
on something I wasn't going to keep, prolly a jarrah table.
Shipping for that weight + some pint and quart containers came to $11
and change, not nearly as bad as I feared.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When I die, I'm leaving my body to science fiction. --Steven Wright
----------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Ah.... but I have a couple of solutions for that also. I have a sheet of
hardboard to put on the top when working with the messy stuff then removing
when finished so the top will stay looking well when not in use.
Also the oak ply is removable and replaceable when it becomes "ugly" :~)
I know it is a tool and I try to keep all of my tools looking and working
their best this one will be no different.
Just don't know much about proper finishes yet and need a little advice to
get me on tract.
Many Thanks
Bob
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> > Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?
>
> I think I read that the top is 'oak ply', which means that next year, it
> will be masonite. I can't see a veneer top holding up under workshop
> conditions, regardless of the top coating.
>
> It's a tool, not furniture. Oil, poly, wax, work, smile.
>
> Patriarch
>
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?
I think I read that the top is 'oak ply', which means that next year, it
will be masonite. I can't see a veneer top holding up under workshop
conditions, regardless of the top coating.
It's a tool, not furniture. Oil, poly, wax, work, smile.
Patriarch
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Ah.... but I have a couple of solutions for that also. I have a sheet
> of hardboard to put on the top when working with the messy stuff then
> removing when finished so the top will stay looking well when not in
> use.
>
> Also the oak ply is removable and replaceable when it becomes "ugly"
> :~)
>
> I know it is a tool and I try to keep all of my tools looking and
> working their best this one will be no different.
>
> Just don't know much about proper finishes yet and need a little
> advice to get me on tract.
>
Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it on.
Three coats everywhere except the top. Then use the rest of the quart on
the top. Wipe it on until it won't absorb any more, then come back and do
the same thing the next day. Repeat until the can's empty.
When it needs touching up, scuff it with 120 grit, and do it again.
Good stuff. About $18 per quart. Standard oil rag safety protocols apply.
Patriarch
Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it
> on.
>
> Three coats everywhere except the top. Then use the rest of the quart
> on the top. Wipe it on until it won't absorb any more, then come back
> and do the same thing the next day. Repeat until the can's empty.
>
> When it needs touching up, scuff it with 120 grit, and do it again.
>
> Good stuff. About $18 per quart. Standard oil rag safety protocols
> apply.
Hi Patriarch,
Where do you get your Waterlox? Their web site says it's available at True
Value stores, but I have yet to find one that stocks it. I have taken to
ordering mine via mailorder from Highland Hardware.
I've been using Waterlox since last Christmas ... first on a series of game
boxes made from cherry, walnut, and mahogany scraps. Recently I'm
finishing an unusual project (telescope) made from mahogany and Peruvian
walnut.
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Patriarch,
>
> That sounds like a good plan and one I have not looked at. Will it
> work with stain?
>
Yes. Let the (solvent-based) stain cure a couple of days, and you'll be
happier with the results. I've used the soy-based Varathane stains on
several projects, under Waterlox, with success.
Patriarch
Nate Perkins <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip)
> Hi Patriarch,
>
> Where do you get your Waterlox? Their web site says it's available at
> True Value stores, but I have yet to find one that stocks it. I have
> taken to ordering mine via mailorder from Highland Hardware.
>
My [relatively] local Woodcraft outlet(s) [gloat] stock it, in several
flavors. And last week, it was on the overstock (30% off) table. Someone
cancelled an order for a case of quarts, for some reason.
There is a reported problem with gelling in the can, once open, so don't
order more than you're likely use within a couple of months. Some of the
turners on Woodcentral report that they transfer to smaller, glass
containers for storage, with success.
Patriarch
Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
...
> There is a reported problem with gelling in the can, once open, so
> don't order more than you're likely use within a couple of months.
> Some of the turners on Woodcentral report that they transfer to
> smaller, glass containers for storage, with success.
Hmm, I did have a problem with gelling in the last inch of my quart can. I
had assumed that I didn't put the lid on tightly enough.
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I get mine from Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com
> The Original in medium sheen is $16.99/qt. or $45.99/gal.
>
Ouch, I've been paying 26 bucks for a quart from Highland, plus shipping on
top of that.
Use poly over the stain, I've used the minwax poly with good results.
Scratches, dings and dents are inevitable, poly allows you to light sand and
re-coat
I have a roll of brown craft paper (36" w 40lb ) hanging in a dispenser. I
use this stuff for all sorts of things, but bought it for laying over bench
tops while gluing.
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
> top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
> oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
> construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
> panel inserts.
>
> Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
> I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
> used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
> water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
> wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc.
I
> have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
> the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
> base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
> stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe
on
> poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?
>
> How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice.
I
> have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when
I'm
> done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just
want
> it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
> pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
> that point :~)
>
> Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.
>
> Bob N
>
>
>
>
>
>
Patriarch,
That sounds like a good plan and one I have not looked at. Will it work
with stain?
Thanks for the tip.
Bob
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Ah.... but I have a couple of solutions for that also. I have a sheet
> > of hardboard to put on the top when working with the messy stuff then
> > removing when finished so the top will stay looking well when not in
> > use.
> >
> > Also the oak ply is removable and replaceable when it becomes "ugly"
> > :~)
> >
> > I know it is a tool and I try to keep all of my tools looking and
> > working their best this one will be no different.
> >
> > Just don't know much about proper finishes yet and need a little
> > advice to get me on tract.
> >
>
> Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it on.
>
> Three coats everywhere except the top. Then use the rest of the quart on
> the top. Wipe it on until it won't absorb any more, then come back and do
> the same thing the next day. Repeat until the can's empty.
>
> When it needs touching up, scuff it with 120 grit, and do it again.
>
> Good stuff. About $18 per quart. Standard oil rag safety protocols
apply.
>
> Patriarch
On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 06:20:12 GMT, the inscrutable Nate Perkins
<[email protected]> spake:
>Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it
>> on.
>Hi Patriarch,
>
>Where do you get your Waterlox? Their web site says it's available at True
>Value stores, but I have yet to find one that stocks it. I have taken to
>ordering mine via mailorder from Highland Hardware.
I get mine from Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com
The Original in medium sheen is $16.99/qt. or $45.99/gal.
--
***********************************************************
"Boy, I feel safer now that Martha Stewart is behind bars!
O.J. is walking around free, Osama Bin Laden too, but they
take the one woman in America willing to cook and clean
and work in the yard and haul her ass to jail."
--Tim Allen
***********************************************************