x-no-archive:yes
I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
I cant quite remember.
stryped wrote:
>
> I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
> this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
> to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
> idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
> fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
> Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
> the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
> I cant quite remember.
Which side has less material so it needs the shim?
R
See http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html link for set up.
***************************
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
> this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
> to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
> idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
> fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
> Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
> the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
> I cant quite remember.
x-no-archive:yes
The problem I have is my small router table fence is not a split fence.
It is all one piece.
[email protected] wrote:
> See http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html link for set up.
> ***************************
> stryped wrote:
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
> > this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
> > to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
> > idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
> > fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
> > Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
> > the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
> > I cant quite remember.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> The problem I have is my small router table fence is not a split fence.
> It is all one piece.
It's not your equipment, it's your thinking. You already know you need
to shim, and you already know which side has less wood.
BTW, is there some hidden logic to why you have the no-archive switch?
Pretty silly when you think about it - since you're getting replies you
post will live on.
R
x-no-archive:yes
So I need to install the shim underneath the outfeed side. Then make
sure the outfeed side is even with the cutting head. Then the infeed
side will be automatically below the cutting head by the thickness of
the shim?
See, I have a small beginning ryobi router table. I only have a single
piece fence.
x-no-archive:yes
Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean they cant be on the same
plane? Is it useless to try to joint boards on this router table?
I have looked at table saw jigs for jointing. But I have trouble
understanding how they are built and work. (Some). Some of them are
basically a straight edge somehow clamped to a board. That I kind of
understand. Can someone basically direct me to an easy jig with a
minumim of required material to build?
I appreciate everyone's help and patience. I am sorry if some of you
get frustrated with me. These are legitimate questions. And yes I think
all this stuff through before I ask but if I dont understand something
I ask. I thought that is what this group is about.
Leon wrote:
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > The problem I have is my small router table fence is not a split fence.
> > It is all one piece.
>
>
> The in feed and the out feed cannot be on the same plane.
> Regardless, this is not going to be much good for longer boards. Build a TS
> jig to straighten your board edges.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean they cant be on the same
> plane? Is it useless to try to joint boards on this router table?
yes. using a router table as a jointer requires a split fence.
note that you can get that result by building up the face of the
outfeed side of a single feed fence. putting a shim behind the outfeed
side of a single piece fence won't work.
x-no-archive:yes
I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:
Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an
auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the
outfeed side of the auxillary fence.
When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from
the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness
is.
This wont work?
[email protected] wrote:
> stryped wrote:
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean they cant be on the same
> > plane? Is it useless to try to joint boards on this router table?
>
> yes. using a router table as a jointer requires a split fence.
>
> note that you can get that result by building up the face of the
> outfeed side of a single feed fence. putting a shim behind the outfeed
> side of a single piece fence won't work.
x-no-archive: yes
For small pieces say a foot or two in length, would the router table
set up do a better job or would using a straight edge sort of jig as
has been described here do the same job? What about for edge glueing
boards?
Leon wrote:
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:
> >
> > Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an
> > auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the
> > outfeed side of the auxillary fence.
> > When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from
> > the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness
> > is.
>
>
> That sounds reasonable. But with a short fence don't expect too much unless
> you are straightening short pieces of wood.
x-no-archive: yes
For small pieces say a foot or two in length, would the router table
set up do a better job or would using a straight edge sort of jig as
has been described here do the same job? What about for edge glueing
boards?
Leon wrote:
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:
> >
> > Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an
> > auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the
> > outfeed side of the auxillary fence.
> > When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from
> > the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness
> > is.
>
>
> That sounds reasonable. But with a short fence don't expect too much unless
> you are straightening short pieces of wood.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive: yes
x-no-archive-does-it-work: nope
x-so-why-do-people-do-it: delusions of anonymity
> For small pieces say a foot or two in length, would the router table
> set up do a better job or would using a straight edge sort of jig as
> has been described here do the same job? What about for edge glueing
> boards?
You ask a million questions. Basic questions. Don't they have
libraries where you are? Get some books and magazines out and READ.
Then get into the shop and DO. It's the only way to learn.
R
B A R R Y wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
> >
> >
> > You ask a million questions. Basic questions. Don't they have
> > libraries where you are?
>
> Or the Internet? <G>
To the OP:
If you're starting from scratch, books are a lot easier. It's nice to
approach the subject systematically (not talking about the saw blades,
neither!). You could hit the library, take out three books, and in the
matter of a week you'd be an old pro at being a beginner. ;) You'd
also get far more out of the replies you get on the newsgroup(s).
R
RicodJour wrote:
> stryped wrote:
> > x-no-archive: yes
>
> x-no-archive-does-it-work: nope
> x-so-why-do-people-do-it: delusions of anonymity
X-no-archive does work for google archives. The post is available for
6 days:
>From Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X-No-Archive
When DejaNews was purchased by Google, Google continued to honor the
X-No-Archive protocol. Beginning in 2005, Google's newsgroup service
(Google Groups) changed its handling of X-No-Archive, allowing messages
with the header to be archived and made available for view for a period
of six days; after six days, the message was then deleted from the
archive. Other newsgroup archiving services have also followed in
DejaNews' footsteps, though the decision not to archive X-No-Archive
messages has been entirely voluntary.
If I were you I would take a straight edge with me when purchasing
lumber and try to build within your knowledge and equipment
capabilities. A planner is nice to have but not the way to face flatten
a board (Without making a jig ) Buy lumber with one flat side before
planning ( flat side down) . An used # 7 plane can also flatten one
side as well. This # 7 plane can also joint your edge. Remember you
need one flat edge and one flat face before ripping board or planning.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:
>
> Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an
> auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the
> outfeed side of the auxillary fence.
> When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from
> the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness
> is.
>
>
> This wont work?
what you are describing is a split fence. that will work.
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 03:00:29 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Chuck Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Is something preventing you from looking up the old thread and
>> re-reading it?
>Yes. The no archive directive he always uses.
I suppose he thinks that makes the whole thread disappear from his
news server as soon as it leaves his mind.
--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> stryped wrote:
> > x-no-archive: yes
>
> x-no-archive-does-it-work: nope
> x-so-why-do-people-do-it: delusions of anonymity
>
> > For small pieces say a foot or two in length, would the router table
> > set up do a better job or would using a straight edge sort of jig as
> > has been described here do the same job? What about for edge glueing
> > boards?
>
> You ask a million questions. Basic questions. Don't they have
> libraries where you are? Get some books and magazines out and READ.
> Then get into the shop and DO. It's the only way to learn.
>
The key to so many questions. JOAT's sig is appropriate to this notion as
well. So many questions can easily be answered by a little trial and error.
A little experimentation. A little effort. So what if the poster does not
"know"? That's what becomes the benefit of simply thinking one's way
through a problem and trying a few things. Simply coming to newsgroups, or
to other folks with questions *instead* of trying things and learning
things, offers little real value. Absent some fundamental understanding,
information is useless - there's no real context for the information.
To the OP - grow a set fella. Think about your problem a bit. Come up with
a method that uses your logical mind to deal with the issue at hand, and
give it a buzz. If it works - great. You'll have discovered something that
you know works and that you understand. It becomes a fundamental building
block of knowledge. If it doesn't work - look at it and think about it
again. Surely you'll see what was appropriate in your idea and what caused
your implementation to fail. This is not complex stuff. Change it and give
it a buzz again. You'll be getting better with each iteration of your
process.
Just think where we'd be if Edison had to wait for usenet to be invented so
he could ask questions of all the things he didn't yet know...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:
>
> Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an
> auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the
> outfeed side of the auxillary fence.
> When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from
> the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness
> is.
That sounds reasonable. But with a short fence don't expect too much unless
you are straightening short pieces of wood.
dadiOH wrote:
> stryped wrote:
>
>>x-no-archive:yes
>>
>>So I need to install the shim underneath the outfeed side. Then make
>>sure the outfeed side is even with the cutting head. Then the infeed
>>side will be automatically below the cutting head by the thickness of
>>the shim?
>
>
> See what happens when you think? :)
What's frightening is all the things you have to keep in mind while
using this equipment if you want to keep all your fingers.
Care and thought! Think through everything before you plug anything in.
I don't think the NG will help with this.
er
--
email not valid
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive: yes
>
> For small pieces say a foot or two in length, would the router table
> set up do a better job or would using a straight edge sort of jig as
> has been described here do the same job? What about for edge glueing
> boards?
For 12-24" I would say the TS jig/sled in a more realistic scale than 8'
long would probably be less trouble with the results being better more
likely.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> So I need to install the shim underneath the outfeed side. Then make
> sure the outfeed side is even with the cutting head. Then the infeed
> side will be automatically below the cutting head by the thickness of
> the shim?
See what happens when you think? :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
> this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
> to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
> idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
> fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
> Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
> the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
> I cant quite remember.
>
One suggestion I'd make: ensure that your router bit is 90-degrees to
the surface of the router table.
Fences are nice, but unless the bit is perpendicular, the jointing's
going to be a tad off.
On 15 Mar 2006 05:27:39 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
>this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
>to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
>idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
>fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
>Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
>the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
>I cant quite remember.
Is something preventing you from looking up the old thread and
re-reading it?
--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
> this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
> to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
> idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
> fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
> Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
> the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
> I cant quite remember.
>
If the in feed is at the same depth as the bit, would it cut?
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean they cant be on the same
> plane? Is it useless to try to joint boards on this router table?
If your fence is all one piece it is on a single plane, right?
If your fence does not have inividual in feed and out feed surfaces they
would be on the same plane.
If your fence has seperate infeed and out feed surfaces you need to shim
your out feed fence surface so that it is parellel but not coplaner to the
in feed fence surface.
> I have looked at table saw jigs for jointing. But I have trouble
> understanding how they are built and work. (Some). Some of them are
> basically a straight edge somehow clamped to a board. That I kind of
> understand. Can someone basically direct me to an easy jig with a
> minumim of required material to build?
My jig is simply a 8' long by 12" wide "straight piece" of 3/4" thick
plywood.
I set it on the saw table and run its long edge along the rip fence with the
rip fence adjusted so that the opposite long edge is next to the saw blade.
I attached 2 toggle clamps with screws anywhere on the plywood sled so that
they will hold the board that I want to straighten.
Place the board that you want to straighten on the sled with only the curved
edge overhanging where the blade will cut and clamp it down.
>
> I appreciate everyone's help and patience. I am sorry if some of you
> get frustrated with me. These are legitimate questions. And yes I think
> all this stuff through before I ask but if I dont understand something
> I ask. I thought that is what this group is about.
> Leon wrote:
>> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > x-no-archive:yes
>> >
>> > The problem I have is my small router table fence is not a split fence.
>> > It is all one piece.
>>
>>
>> The in feed and the out feed cannot be on the same plane.
>> Regardless, this is not going to be much good for longer boards. Build a
>> TS
>> jig to straighten your board edges.
>
Or a strait edge and hand held router.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Build a TS
> jig to straighten your board edges.
>
On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 07:32:06 -0600, Chuck Taylor
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 15 Mar 2006 05:27:39 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
>>this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
>>to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
>>idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
>>fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
>>Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
>>the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
>>I cant quite remember.
>
>
>Is something preventing you from looking up the old thread and
>re-reading it?
lol
stryped the x-no-archive:yes guy?
Yes. The no archive directive he always uses.
"Chuck Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Is something preventing you from looking up the old thread and
> re-reading it?
>
>
> --
> Chuck Taylor
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
> this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
> to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
> idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
> fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
> Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade
> and the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the
> blade. I cant quite remember.
One of the most useful tools anyone can own for woodworking or anything
else is a brain. You were born with one, use it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I only have a small table top table saw.
That would limit you.
> How do you clamp the board to the sled?
The toggle clamps are near the fence on the right side of the board that is
being straightened. The blade is on the opposite side of the board.
Basically the sled simply carries the board through in a straight line.
I mean, wouldnt the clamps
> interfere with the sled "sliding"? I know I am misunderstanding this
> somehow.
The clamps are attached on top of the plywood with screws that do not go all
the way through the bottom of the plywood sled.
>
> Can this work for edge jointing boards to glue togther?
>
In article <[email protected]>, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
>
>I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects
>this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table
>to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My
>idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the
>fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side?
>Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and
>the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade.
>I cant quite remember.
>
I don't mean to be rude, but.... did you spend even five seconds thinking
about which side needs the shim before you posted? I understand you're new to
a lot of this, and need some help here and there, but you really need to think
things through a bit.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
He probably knows better than that but it does make it more difficult to
find or fallow.
"Chuck Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> I suppose he thinks that makes the whole thread disappear from his
> news server as soon as it leaves his mind.
>
>
> --
> Chuck Taylor
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> The problem I have is my small router table fence is not a split fence.
> It is all one piece.
The in feed and the out feed cannot be on the same plane.
Regardless, this is not going to be much good for longer boards. Build a TS
jig to straighten your board edges.