I have finally been successful in not using sandpaper prior to finishing.
On my entertainment center, I have managed to use just planes and a card
scraper to prepare the door panels and one of the back panels for finish
(that's as much finishing as I have done thus far).
What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had been
trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of $8.00,
I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the Sandvik for
years and was only moderately successful sometimes. The Sanvik managed to
gall my burnisher more than the burnisher managed to turn a hook on the
Sandvik. I have now successfully turned a hook on the Lie Nielson scraper
more than several times and it seems to be consistent without having to use
extraordinary effort to get the hook. I was told that LN uses the same
material as they use on their backsaws for their scraper stock. The
material is much more flexible than the Sandvik (easier on the fingers
during use), and as I said, turns *so* much easier. The hook seems to be
pretty durable, I've been able to do quite a bit of scraping on a single
sharpening of the 4 edges. It seems plywood scrapes mostly dust,
regardless of hook age, but test runs on hardwoods return small shavings.
I'm a happy camper.
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 14:49:45 GMT, Jim Wilson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'd think that in a humid area -- not my shop, BTW -- leather would make
>a poor (hygroscopic) container for a carbon steel blade. Not so?
All depends on your leather. Go ask rec.knives.
The main constraints are; vegetable tanned, not with corrosive metal
salts (the big one), a good surface to it, not one of the coarse split
suraces, and have the leather _completely_ dressed with something
oily, waxy or non-hygroscopic.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:26:34 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:27:01 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>> them yet. I made an ogee bit & scratch stock to do the mantle
>> so I couldn't use them there, either. Maybe some day, eh?
>
>Finally bought the carriage bolts and wingnuts to put my scratch stock
>into operation. Chunk of apple scrounged from the woodpile--bee yoo tee
>full. Now I have to think up a project to use it on. Oh, and making
>cutters is the perfect excuse I needed to get a set of jeweller's files. ;)
There ya go! And remember to lap them on the diamond plate
before use. 2x6" @600 is just fine.
--
Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 16:21:40 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>SawDust <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
>> I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
>> a stupid question.
>>
>> They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
>> penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
>>
>
>It's not a stupid question. A scraped finish looks very different than a
>sanded one, and may or may not be what you want/need on any given piece.
>Not all woods take well to scraping, and others really 'shine'. (Sorry)
>
>Cherry and maple are two that I think are well suited. Oak is another
>story. The nature of the grain plays a large part. Pine refuses to be
>scraped, or so I've been told.
I haven't found that to be the case with Spruce, but you do need to be
careful about the grain direction. If you try to scrape against the
grain at all, it's pretty easy to cause tearout at the edges. If
you're careful, though, it will really make the grain flash nicely.
>You definitely will want to do a sample piece, paying attention to
>edge/face/end grain, and completing your finishing processes. A
>generalized answer just wouldn't do your question justice. And the look
>doesn't suit all projects by any means.
>
>BTW, you may want to purchase the two scraper set. The different
>thicknesses suit different work patterns.
>
>Patriarch
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 20:28:36 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> scrapers, does anyone here ever used the curved ones?
>>
>>
>>absolutely. I make most of them myself from whatever suitable steel I
>>can get my hands on. non-carbide tipped circular saw blades are
>>perfect for the thicker ones. handsaw blade stock is right for thinner
>>flexible ones. I rough cut the shape I need on one of those small
>>horizontal/vertical bandsaws and grind and file to fair the curves,
>>then stone the edges square and burnish the hook with a HSS drill
>>blank. typical time from concept to making shavings so thin they have
>>only one side is about 15 minutes.
>
>My favorite scraper stock comes from old Japanese saw blades. I buy
>the ones with impulse hardened teeth which can't be resharpened. When
>the blade wears out I cut scrapers out of it to fit the curve of
>whatever I'm working on.
do you roll a burr on them? sounds a little thin and hard for that.
OTOH, they probably don't need one....
Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have finally been successful in not using sandpaper prior to finishing.
> On my entertainment center, I have managed to use just planes and a card
> scraper to prepare the door panels and one of the back panels for finish
> (that's as much finishing as I have done thus far).
>
> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had been
> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of $8.00,
> I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the Sandvik for
> years and was only moderately successful sometimes. The Sanvik managed to
> gall my burnisher more than the burnisher managed to turn a hook on the
> Sandvik. I have now successfully turned a hook on the Lie Nielson scraper
> more than several times and it seems to be consistent without having to use
> extraordinary effort to get the hook. I was told that LN uses the same
> material as they use on their backsaws for their scraper stock. The
> material is much more flexible than the Sandvik (easier on the fingers
> during use), and as I said, turns *so* much easier. The hook seems to be
> pretty durable, I've been able to do quite a bit of scraping on a single
> sharpening of the 4 edges. It seems plywood scrapes mostly dust,
> regardless of hook age, but test runs on hardwoods return small shavings.
>
> I'm a happy camper.
For me, the problem that I always had was failing to burnish hard
enough on the flat side prior to rolling the hook ... that and holding
the burnisher too far from perpindicular while rolling the hook.
It took quite a while to figure it out, but now I cut thick piles of
shavings that look kind of like fine gauze.
In the process of trying to figure out the process of making the hook
I ran through Sandvik, Lie Nielsen, Two Cherries, and Lee Valley
scrapers. Kind of silly, I guess, but that's learning by trial and
error for you! I found that all of them can be made to work fine. I
do prefer the softer ones like the Lee Valley and the Two Cherries,
but I think that's personal preference.
Cheers,
Nate
http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperkins1/Woodworking/woodworking.htm
Nope!
The scraper actually cuts like a knife, leaving the pores of the wood open.
You should get a deeper more dimensional finish.
max
> Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
> I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
> a stupid question.
>
> They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
> penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
>
> Pat
>
>
>
> On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 GMT, patriarch
> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had
>>> been
>>> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of
>>> $8.00, I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the
>>> Sandvik for years and was only moderately successful sometimes.
>> <snip>
>>
>> It is a thing of beauty, is it not?
>>
>> I bought TWO SETS of LN scapers, so I could keep enough of them prepared to
>> get me through a largish project. The Sandviks now get sharpened up to
>> loan to other folks...
>>
>> Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
>> in... ;-)
>>
>> BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
>> easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>>
>> Welcome to the quiet side.
>>
>> Patriarch
>
Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had
> been
> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of
> $8.00, I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the
> Sandvik for years and was only moderately successful sometimes.
<snip>
It is a thing of beauty, is it not?
I bought TWO SETS of LN scapers, so I could keep enough of them prepared to
get me through a largish project. The Sandviks now get sharpened up to
loan to other folks...
Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
in... ;-)
BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
Welcome to the quiet side.
Patriarch
SawDust <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
> I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
> a stupid question.
>
> They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
> penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
>
It's not a stupid question. A scraped finish looks very different than a
sanded one, and may or may not be what you want/need on any given piece.
Not all woods take well to scraping, and others really 'shine'. (Sorry)
Cherry and maple are two that I think are well suited. Oak is another
story. The nature of the grain plays a large part. Pine refuses to be
scraped, or so I've been told.
You definitely will want to do a sample piece, paying attention to
edge/face/end grain, and completing your finishing processes. A
generalized answer just wouldn't do your question justice. And the look
doesn't suit all projects by any means.
BTW, you may want to purchase the two scraper set. The different
thicknesses suit different work patterns.
Patriarch
Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> The Lie Nielsons are a lot better, huh? I haven't had too much
> trouble with the Sandvik scraper I've got, but I bought one of those
> Veritas adjustible burnishers at the same time. Scrapers are
> excellent to use, though- I'm going to have to try out LN.
>
When you can buy TWO of anything Lie Nielsen offers for $15, then I think
that's a deal.
And yes, I think that they work better for me. Both seemed easier to get
sharp, and keep a hook, while working on maple and cherry.
After getting these, I looked at the video on FWW website on preparing
scrapers. I think it's done by Brian Boggs. I learned a lot about the
process.
Patriarch
SawDust <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> This Red Oak was S4S but you can see the planer marks. Even if I can
> eliminate some of those marks with the scraper, rather than doing a
> lot of noisy and messy sanding, that will be a big help too.
>
> Any thoughts ?
>
When I was prepping the surface of the blanket chest/bench/coffee table (in
progress off and on for almost a year now), I used a scraper to smooth a
couple of areas where the glue lines weren't as invisible as I'd like. The
scraper did a better job than anything else, but tended to leave a smooth
rippled surface following the grain pattern. The planer marks are long
gone.
Deciding to live with it, I filled the grain with water-based filler
(Rockler's Wunderfil), in three passes. A color coat of Varathane's new
soy-based stain, and now three coats so far of Waterlox Original. I'll
likely do three more on the top, then wax...
Do what you need to do, consistent with the feel of your project. Not
everything needs to be worthy of the MOFA. In my case, the grandkids will
likely bang on it with their toys, and their parents will put their feet up
on it during baseball broadcasts on the tube. That's what it's there for.
Patriarch
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:57:40 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>>>My favorite scraper stock comes from old Japanese saw blades. I buy
>>>the ones with impulse hardened teeth which can't be resharpened. When
>>>the blade wears out I cut scrapers out of it to fit the curve of
>>>whatever I'm working on.
>>
>>
>>do you roll a burr on them? sounds a little thin and hard for that.
>>OTOH, they probably don't need one....
>
>Yeah, I put a burr on them. It's called using a good burnisher and
>pressing really hard. A little oil helps.
>
>--RC
seems like there will be a curve of diminishing returns with
burnishing hard thin scrapers. at some point you have to press so hard
to roll an edge on the hard steel that you'll put a kink in it.... not
sure what steel it'd be though....
Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
a stupid question.
They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
Pat
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had
>> been
>> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of
>> $8.00, I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the
>> Sandvik for years and was only moderately successful sometimes.
><snip>
>
>It is a thing of beauty, is it not?
>
>I bought TWO SETS of LN scapers, so I could keep enough of them prepared to
>get me through a largish project. The Sandviks now get sharpened up to
>loan to other folks...
>
>Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
>in... ;-)
>
>BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
>easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>
>Welcome to the quiet side.
>
>Patriarch
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 08:22:01 -0500, SawDust <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
>I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
>a stupid question.
>
>They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
>penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
Not as far as I've been able to tell. Scraping leaves a much nicer
finish than any grit sandpaper I've used, and doesn't fill up the
pores with dust. Depending on the angle of your hook, you can take
off as much or as little as you need to. (I like to set the four
sides to 0, 5, 10 and 15 degrees, and then mark them, but I'm sure
everyone does this differently) I'm sure all the standard finishing
practices apply- it's not going to make pine magically stain without
blotching or anything, but it'll get you to where you're going much
more quickly than sanding with a block! Depending on how much
scraping you intend to do, and how much endurance you've got in your
hands, it's also a nice idea to get one of those adjustable holders
for your scraper. Not only do you not have to flex the thing with
your fingers, but they can get pretty hot after a while.
>Pat
>
>
>
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 GMT, patriarch
><<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had
>>> been
>>> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of
>>> $8.00, I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the
>>> Sandvik for years and was only moderately successful sometimes.
>><snip>
>>
>>It is a thing of beauty, is it not?
>>
>>I bought TWO SETS of LN scapers, so I could keep enough of them prepared to
>>get me through a largish project. The Sandviks now get sharpened up to
>>loan to other folks...
>>
>>Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
>>in... ;-)
>>
>>BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
>>easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>>
>>Welcome to the quiet side.
>>
>>Patriarch
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
Australopithecus scobis wrote...
> On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 +0000, wrote:
>
> > Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
> > in... ;-)
>
> Me too. ;)
I'd think that in a humid area -- not my shop, BTW -- leather would make
a poor (hygroscopic) container for a carbon steel blade. Not so?
Jim
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 14:50:26 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 20:28:36 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> scrapers, does anyone here ever used the curved ones?
>>>
>>>
>>>absolutely. I make most of them myself from whatever suitable steel I
>>>can get my hands on. non-carbide tipped circular saw blades are
>>>perfect for the thicker ones. handsaw blade stock is right for thinner
>>>flexible ones. I rough cut the shape I need on one of those small
>>>horizontal/vertical bandsaws and grind and file to fair the curves,
>>>then stone the edges square and burnish the hook with a HSS drill
>>>blank. typical time from concept to making shavings so thin they have
>>>only one side is about 15 minutes.
>>
>>My favorite scraper stock comes from old Japanese saw blades. I buy
>>the ones with impulse hardened teeth which can't be resharpened. When
>>the blade wears out I cut scrapers out of it to fit the curve of
>>whatever I'm working on.
>
>
>do you roll a burr on them? sounds a little thin and hard for that.
>OTOH, they probably don't need one....
Yeah, I put a burr on them. It's called using a good burnisher and
pressing really hard. A little oil helps.
--RC
That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
--Friedrich Nietzsche
Never get your philosophy from some guy who ended up in the looney bin.
-- Wiz Zumwalt
patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>
> BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
> easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>
> Welcome to the quiet side.
>
A Vice with wooden jaws works fine for me as does a wood-jawed hand-screw
clamp.
--
FF
Thanks Max... I picked up one "just to experiment".
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 14:51:30 GMT, max <[email protected]> wrote:
>Nope!
>The scraper actually cuts like a knife, leaving the pores of the wood open.
>You should get a deeper more dimensional finish.
>max
>
>> Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
>> I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
>> a stupid question.
>>
>> They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
>> penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
>>
>> Pat
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 GMT, patriarch
>> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had
>>>> been
>>>> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of
>>>> $8.00, I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the
>>>> Sandvik for years and was only moderately successful sometimes.
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> It is a thing of beauty, is it not?
>>>
>>> I bought TWO SETS of LN scapers, so I could keep enough of them prepared to
>>> get me through a largish project. The Sandviks now get sharpened up to
>>> loan to other folks...
>>>
>>> Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
>>> in... ;-)
>>>
>>> BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
>>> easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>>>
>>> Welcome to the quiet side.
>>>
>>> Patriarch
>>
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> scrapers, does anyone here ever used the curved ones?
>
>
>absolutely. I make most of them myself from whatever suitable steel I
>can get my hands on. non-carbide tipped circular saw blades are
>perfect for the thicker ones. handsaw blade stock is right for thinner
>flexible ones. I rough cut the shape I need on one of those small
>horizontal/vertical bandsaws and grind and file to fair the curves,
>then stone the edges square and burnish the hook with a HSS drill
>blank. typical time from concept to making shavings so thin they have
>only one side is about 15 minutes.
My favorite scraper stock comes from old Japanese saw blades. I buy
the ones with impulse hardened teeth which can't be resharpened. When
the blade wears out I cut scrapers out of it to fit the curve of
whatever I'm working on.
--RC
That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
--Friedrich Nietzsche
Never get your philosophy from some guy who ended up in the looney bin.
-- Wiz Zumwalt
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> What turned the corner for me? Bagging the Sandvik scraper I had
>> been
>> trying to use and getting a Lie Nielson card scraper (cost me all of
>> $8.00, I think). I've struggled with trying to put a hook on the
>> Sandvik for years and was only moderately successful sometimes.
><snip>
The Lie Nielsons are a lot better, huh? I haven't had too much
trouble with the Sandvik scraper I've got, but I bought one of those
Veritas adjustible burnishers at the same time. Scrapers are
excellent to use, though- I'm going to have to try out LN.
>It is a thing of beauty, is it not?
>
>I bought TWO SETS of LN scapers, so I could keep enough of them prepared to
>get me through a largish project. The Sandviks now get sharpened up to
>loan to other folks...
>
>Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
>in... ;-)
>
>BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
>easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>
>Welcome to the quiet side.
>
>Patriarch
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:17:35 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, bridger wrote:
>
>> only one side is about 15 minutes.
>
>I'm still only partway through a warren & ted saw blade. Ace $4.69
>hacksaw. Been chipping away for weeks now, when the fit strikes. Daydream
>about one o' them $200 HF bandsaws all the while... Ripping metal by
>hand...
>
>I should have been clearer before. What do folks use curved scrapers for?
>Mouldings, yeah, but what else?
Curved wood or carved wood. Whatever their profile fits.
--
Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
> scrapers, does anyone here ever used the curved ones?
absolutely. I make most of them myself from whatever suitable steel I
can get my hands on. non-carbide tipped circular saw blades are
perfect for the thicker ones. handsaw blade stock is right for thinner
flexible ones. I rough cut the shape I need on one of those small
horizontal/vertical bandsaws and grind and file to fair the curves,
then stone the edges square and burnish the hook with a HSS drill
blank. typical time from concept to making shavings so thin they have
only one side is about 15 minutes.
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:23:55 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 22:51:55 -0700, Mark & Juanita
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I was told that LN uses the same
>>material as they use on their backsaws for their scraper stock. The
>>material is much more flexible than the Sandvik (easier on the fingers
>>during use), and as I said, turns *so* much easier. The hook seems to be
>>pretty durable, I've been able to do quite a bit of scraping on a single
>>sharpening of the 4 edges. It seems plywood scrapes mostly dust,
>>regardless of hook age, but test runs on hardwoods return small shavings.
>>
>> I'm a happy camper.
>>
>
>
>Which Sandvik do you have? They come in different thicknesses.
>
>Barry
I'm not really sure, I bought it a number of years ago. It is fairly
thick however. I'll have to check.
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 +0000, wrote:
> Now I just need to get on of those special leather envelopes to keep them
> in... ;-)
Me too. ;)
Yesterday I grabbed a 8" piece of the bottom of a blue jeans leg. (I save
the legs when they wear out.) Folded in half to give three compartments.
Ran a seam across the bottom and along the side. Left a couple inches
unsewn, then slit them. (Look at the pic of the holder in the LV catalog.)
There are subtleties to sewing to which I am not privy. Fold up like I
described, then try to pull it inside out to put the ?selvage?, the part
of the fabric proud of the seam, on the inside. Whoops. Also bent the
needle trying to get through the rolled hems; left them alone then.
Anyway, it works fine, cost nothing (jt?), and will do until the fancy
leather works its way into my budget.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 10:03:08 -0800, mp wrote:
> Wow. You'd make someone a nice wife!
No, my wife brags about me to her friends. My sewing efforts, however, all
appear "Man made." Really, hie thee to the fabric store. Lots of good WW
stuff there. Microfiber cloth, pounce wheels, and beeswax, to name a few.
Back to scrapers, does anyone here ever used the curved ones?
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, bridger wrote:
> only one side is about 15 minutes.
I'm still only partway through a warren & ted saw blade. Ace $4.69
hacksaw. Been chipping away for weeks now, when the fit strikes. Daydream
about one o' them $200 HF bandsaws all the while... Ripping metal by
hand...
I should have been clearer before. What do folks use curved scrapers for?
Mouldings, yeah, but what else?
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:27:01 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
> them yet. I made an ogee bit & scratch stock to do the mantle
> so I couldn't use them there, either. Maybe some day, eh?
Finally bought the carriage bolts and wingnuts to put my scratch stock
into operation. Chunk of apple scrounged from the woodpile--bee yoo tee
full. Now I have to think up a project to use it on. Oh, and making
cutters is the perfect excuse I needed to get a set of jeweller's files. ;)
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 22:51:55 -0700, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I was told that LN uses the same
>material as they use on their backsaws for their scraper stock. The
>material is much more flexible than the Sandvik (easier on the fingers
>during use), and as I said, turns *so* much easier. The hook seems to be
>pretty durable, I've been able to do quite a bit of scraping on a single
>sharpening of the 4 edges. It seems plywood scrapes mostly dust,
>regardless of hook age, but test runs on hardwoods return small shavings.
>
> I'm a happy camper.
>
Which Sandvik do you have? They come in different thicknesses.
Barry
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 21:26:35 -0500, SawDust <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>Thanks Max... I picked up one "just to experiment".
Careful! They're like potato chips. Betcha can't buy just one.
--
Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 10:03:08 -0800, mp wrote:
>
>> Wow. You'd make someone a nice wife!
>
>No, my wife brags about me to her friends. My sewing efforts, however, all
>appear "Man made." Really, hie thee to the fabric store. Lots of good WW
>stuff there. Microfiber cloth, pounce wheels, and beeswax, to name a few.
I need to make a scraper pouch, too. The Hunter Green acrylic canvas
ought to work fine. It turned out too thick for my glare guard use.
The $5 investment I made in an old Singer-clone Universal sewing
machine has paid for itself 30-times-over in a couple years. Wally
World has a set of sailcloth needles for under a buck. They're
tough enough to go through leather or thick cloth, felt, etc.
>Back to scrapers, does anyone here ever used the curved ones?
I just bought a set with my last LVT order but I haven't used
them yet. I made an ogee bit & scratch stock to do the mantle
so I couldn't use them there, either. Maybe some day, eh?
--
The State always moves slowly and grudgingly towards any purpose that
accrues to society's advantage, but moves rapidly and with alacrity
towards one that accrues to its own advantage; nor does it ever move
towards social purposes on its own initiative, but only under heavy
pressure, while its motion towards anti-social purposes is self-sprung.
- Albert Jay Nock
- http://diversify.com Web Programming for curmudgeons and others. -
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:17:35 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, bridger wrote:
>
>> only one side is about 15 minutes.
>
>I'm still only partway through a warren & ted saw blade. Ace $4.69
>hacksaw. Been chipping away for weeks now, when the fit strikes. Daydream
>about one o' them $200 HF bandsaws all the while... Ripping metal by
>hand...
>
>I should have been clearer before. What do folks use curved scrapers for?
>Mouldings, yeah, but what else?
anything curved.
the ogee shape of a raised panel cutter. fitting curved parts
together. I have a number of sizes of round over scrapers made now in
different sizes.
had my 40th birthday party the other day. the drummer arrived with no
drumsticks. and I thought I was disorganized... no problem- stepped
out to the shop and whipped out a set. the router table was deep under
a pile of parts, and besides I really didn't feel like making that
much noise and dust in the middle of a party. ripped them on the
bandsaw, roughed them round with a block plane and used a round over
scraper to clean them up. probably nowhere near a balanced set, but he
was happy...
Hi Patriarch,
I picked up the LV 0.6mm Super-Hard Milled. That seemed to be the
middle of the road size wise, and a good place to start.
I'm approaching final assembly of the cabinet I have been working on
in Red Oak. Lot's of chamfer detail. I have used my block plane
to smooth out a few areas and liked the result. But when it came to
fine tuning the chamfers (originally router cut), I can't see what I
am doing with the plane. So I'm hoping the scraper will solve that
problem and as well as smoothing the surface. Obviously Red Oak
is not a good choice for scraping. But at least I'll get a feel for
how a scraper works. I'll still have to fill the grain regardless.
This Red Oak was S4S but you can see the planer marks. Even if I can
eliminate some of those marks with the scraper, rather than doing a
lot of noisy and messy sanding, that will be a big help too.
Any thoughts ?
Pat
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 16:21:40 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>SawDust <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Okay that's enough convincing.. Been thinking about it for a while.
>> I'm heading to LV today... But I have a question... And it might be
>> a stupid question.
>>
>> They say - sand to XXX grit depening on the finish being used for
>> penetration etc. Is this an issue when scraping.?
>>
>
>It's not a stupid question. A scraped finish looks very different than a
>sanded one, and may or may not be what you want/need on any given piece.
>Not all woods take well to scraping, and others really 'shine'. (Sorry)
>
>Cherry and maple are two that I think are well suited. Oak is another
>story. The nature of the grain plays a large part. Pine refuses to be
>scraped, or so I've been told.
>
>You definitely will want to do a sample piece, paying attention to
>edge/face/end grain, and completing your finishing processes. A
>generalized answer just wouldn't do your question justice. And the look
>doesn't suit all projects by any means.
>
>BTW, you may want to purchase the two scraper set. The different
>thicknesses suit different work patterns.
>
>Patriarch
On 8 Nov 2004 09:02:10 -0800, [email protected] (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:
>patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>>
>>
>> BTW, making up a small jig to hold them in whilst burnishing made life
>> easier. Several of the magazines had good articles recently.
>>
>> Welcome to the quiet side.
>>
>
>A Vice with wooden jaws works fine for me as does a wood-jawed hand-screw
>clamp.
I have a handsaw sharpening vise. it's about perfect for sharpening
scrapers.
bridger wrote...
> the ogee shape of a raised panel cutter.
The biggie.
> had my 40th birthday party the other day. the drummer arrived with no
> drumsticks. and I thought I was disorganized... no problem- stepped
> out to the shop and whipped out a set. the router table was deep under
> a pile of parts, and besides I really didn't feel like making that
> much noise and dust in the middle of a party. ripped them on the
> bandsaw, roughed them round with a block plane and used a round over
> scraper to clean them up. probably nowhere near a balanced set, but he
> was happy...
Bet you were, too. That's a good birthday.
Cheers!
Jim
[email protected] writes:
[...]
> then stone the edges square and burnish the hook with a HSS drill
> blank. typical time from concept to making shavings so thin they have
> only one side is about 15 minutes.
You make moebius shavings? Try glueing two of them together egde to
edge and make a klein bottle shaving!
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23