I just took a kickback to the gut.
I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into me.
I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does
not happen, but somehow it did ..
Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
Haven't been since I started using for welding.
I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
--
Jeff
On Sat, 07 Dec 2013 16:00:28 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
Condolences. As painful as it might be, take some solace in the fact
that it might have been worse. Broken teeth, eye injury or something
else.
"woodchucker" wrote:
>I just took a kickback to the gut.
> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back
> into me.
>
> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually
> does not happen, but somehow it did ..
>
> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>
> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish
> piece by hand up against the fence... there was enough material
> contacting the fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>
>
> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
-----------------------------------------------
http://tinyurl.com/3uxteay
Lew
"Jeff Mazur" wrote:
I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments,
basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear
under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy
long sleeve shirt threatening to ruin my day (or life). Highly
recommend - they're toasty and skin-tight.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Might have to look into the above if these temps continue
here in SoCal tonight.
50F is tough duty these days<G>.
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback
on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently,
scared the hell out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood.
When you're cutting with a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes
jumping around. I may just start using my saber-saw to cross cut
stuff after that thrill...
Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw
crosscuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both
sides of the cut intact?
-----------------------------------------------------------------
1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
can.
2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
support it on
a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
Have fun.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:52a3e66f$0$1200
[email protected]:
> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
> can.
> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
> support it on
> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>
> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
I've used thinner foam on the floor when cutting things down. Since the
foam is supported by the floor, it only needs to be 3/4" or so thick. I
set the blade depth to 1/8" or so below the work piece and cut.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> Doesn't the (styro, I assume) foam create all sorts of staticy blobs
> that stick to everything in the room? I know the track saw is suppose
> to get it all but from the bottom, too?
It's not too bad. The sawdust and foam dust do go all over with a regular
saw, but the foam dust isn't really all that staticy.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Monday, December 9, 2013 3:17:56 AM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:
(snip)
>
> To the OP:
>
>
>
> The most basic thing I have not heard anyone mention, so I feel like someone
>
> needs to.
>
>
>
> NEVER cut a piece of lumber with the circ saw between the supports. One
>
> side of the cut must be free to fall away due to gravity, or at the very
>
> least it can be laying flat on support like the grid or Styrofoam ideas.
>
> Cutting between the supports WILL cause kick-back EVERY time.
>
>
>
> Sorry if that was too basic.
>
> --
>
> Jim in NC
>
Not at all too basic - NOTHING'S too basic for me, just starting. I will in the future either allow fall-away or use solid support with a sacrifice surface beneath if I need a production-grade cut mid-board. Thanks to all!
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 14:56:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 12/8/2013 12:50 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:52a3e66f$0$1200
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
>>> can.
>>> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
>>> support it on
>>> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>>>
>>> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>>>
>>> Have fun.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>>
>> I've used thinner foam on the floor when cutting things down. Since the
>> foam is supported by the floor, it only needs to be 3/4" or so thick. I
>> set the blade depth to 1/8" or so below the work piece and cut.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>>
>
>
>Actually the foam only has to space the panels apart from each other.
>Typically I will pile my plywood on top of the 2x4 grid setting on top
>of my saw horses and place the 3/4' foam between the top and next down
>sheet.
Doesn't the (styro, I assume) foam create all sorts of staticy blobs
that stick to everything in the room? I know the track saw is suppose
to get it all but from the bottom, too?
On 12/9/2013 11:19 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/9/13, 9:22 AM, Leon wrote:
>> Actually, these look pretty cool. Saw horses, short or tall work
>> benches, shelf storage units, stool. Very versatile.
>>
>> http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2013/12/05/stacking-shop-stools/
>
> Those are brilliant. Bookmarked.
>
>
And only take up about 2 square feet of floor space when stacked and
stowed away. It would not be a stretch to stack 4 units.
On 12/7/2013 3:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
> by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
> fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you might not have been using a splitter?
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 12/7/2013 3:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> I just took a kickback to the gut.
> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into
> me.
>
> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does
> not happen, but somehow it did ..
>
> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>
> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
> by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
> fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>
>
> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
>
>
>
>
Glad to hear that you are able to report the incident. It happens to
all of us eventually.
On 12/8/2013 3:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 14:56:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 12/8/2013 12:50 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:52a3e66f$0$1200
>>> [email protected]:
>>>
>>>> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
>>>> can.
>>>> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
>>>> support it on
>>>> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>>>>
>>>> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>>>>
>>>> Have fun.
>>>>
>>>> Lew
>>>>
>>>
>>> I've used thinner foam on the floor when cutting things down. Since the
>>> foam is supported by the floor, it only needs to be 3/4" or so thick. I
>>> set the blade depth to 1/8" or so below the work piece and cut.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>>
>>
>>
>> Actually the foam only has to space the panels apart from each other.
>> Typically I will pile my plywood on top of the 2x4 grid setting on top
>> of my saw horses and place the 3/4' foam between the top and next down
>> sheet.
>
> Doesn't the (styro, I assume) foam create all sorts of staticy blobs
> that stick to everything in the room? I know the track saw is suppose
> to get it all but from the bottom, too?
>
I use the foam insulation board that has the film on both sides. But a
little of the foam gets out but not much, probably more saw dust than foam.
On 12/7/2013 9:46 PM, Jeff Mazur wrote:
> Live and learn, you were fortunate, come away with new resolve to take the precautions you should.
>
> I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments, basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy long sleeve shirt threatening to ruin my day (or life). Highly recommend - they're toasty and skin-tight.
>
> I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently, scared the hell out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood. When you're cutting with a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes jumping around. I may just start using my saber-saw to cross cut stuff after that thrill...
>
> Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw crosscuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both sides of the cut intact?
>
I have a cutting grid.
basically 2x4s. that are half notched, they fit into each other, I put
them on a set of saw horses or on the floor. it supports sheets, large
lengths of flat goods..
when I am done I store them flat.
it was cheap, stores efficiently and goes where I want it. Set up time
is about 2 minutes.
--
Jeff
On 12/7/2013 4:27 PM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> I just took a kickback to the gut.
>> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
>> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back
>> into me.
>>
>> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually
>> does not happen, but somehow it did ..
>>
>> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
>> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
>> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>>
>> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish
>> piece by hand up against the fence... there was enough material
>> contacting the fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>>
>>
>> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
>>
>>
>>
>>
> I'm very sorry to hear of your incident. I ordered (Lew's recommended)
> Bies. splitter earlier today. Would a splitter have made a difference
> in your circumstances?
>
>
No for some reason it caught the front teeth and when it kicked wound up
spinning and catching the back then top..
it was only about 5-6 inches long... not going to need the splitter, but
definetly needed the gripper.
--
Jeff
On 12/8/2013 12:50 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:52a3e66f$0$1200
> [email protected]:
>
>> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
>> can.
>> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
>> support it on
>> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>>
>> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>>
>> Have fun.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
> I've used thinner foam on the floor when cutting things down. Since the
> foam is supported by the floor, it only needs to be 3/4" or so thick. I
> set the blade depth to 1/8" or so below the work piece and cut.
>
> Puckdropper
>
Actually the foam only has to space the panels apart from each other.
Typically I will pile my plywood on top of the 2x4 grid setting on top
of my saw horses and place the 3/4' foam between the top and next down
sheet.
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 06:39:41 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 12/7/2013 9:46 PM, Jeff Mazur wrote:
>> Live and learn, you were fortunate, come away with new resolve to take the precautions you should.
>>
>> I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments, basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy long sleeve shirt threatening to ruin my day (or life). Highly recommend - they're toasty and skin-tight.
>>
>> I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently, scared the hell out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood. When you're cutting with a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes jumping around. I may just start using my saber-saw to cross cut stuff after that thrill...
>>
>> Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw crosscuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both sides of the cut intact?
>>
>
>I have a cutting grid.
>basically 2x4s. that are half notched, they fit into each other, I put
>them on a set of saw horses or on the floor. it supports sheets, large
>lengths of flat goods..
>
>when I am done I store them flat.
>
>it was cheap, stores efficiently and goes where I want it. Set up time
>is about 2 minutes.
Nice idea! I was planning a 4'x8' cutting table but this sounds like
a better idea, or even a "topper". The pieces are easily replaced.
I've basically done the same thing for my truck so I can haul 12'
sheetrock (to finish the basement) and siding (this spring's task). I
left them whole, vertically, for support, and then used 1/4-20
cross-nuts and bolts to hold it all together.
On Saturday, December 7, 2013 9:24:32 PM UTC-6, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Jeff Mazur" wrote:
>
>
>
> I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments,
>
> basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear
>
> under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy
>
> long sleeve shirt threatening to ruin my day (or life). Highly
>
> recommend - they're toasty and skin-tight.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Might have to look into the above if these temps continue
>
> here in SoCal tonight.
>
>
>
> 50F is tough duty these days<G>.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
>
> I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback
>
> on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently,
>
> scared the hell out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood.
>
> When you're cutting with a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes
>
> jumping around. I may just start using my saber-saw to cross cut
>
> stuff after that thrill...
>
>
>
> Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw
>
> crosscuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both
>
> sides of the cut intact?
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
>
> can.
>
> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
>
> support it on
>
> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>
>
>
> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>
>
>
> Have fun.
>
>
>
> Lew
Agree on the sled. I have a 4' and 8' version of the saw guides pictured here. They work well.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497
On 08 Dec 2013 23:03:17 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> Doesn't the (styro, I assume) foam create all sorts of staticy blobs
>> that stick to everything in the room? I know the track saw is suppose
>> to get it all but from the bottom, too?
>
>It's not too bad. The sawdust and foam dust do go all over with a regular
>saw, but the foam dust isn't really all that staticy.
Perhaps it depends on the type of foam. I always fight foam blobs
whenever I break up foam packing material. Static is a problem with
may plastics. Ever cut Plexiglas with a power saw? :-(
Live and learn, you were fortunate, come away with new resolve to take the =
precautions you should.
I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments, basically =
Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear under my tee shirt=
when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy long sleeve shirt thre=
atening to ruin my day (or life). Highly recommend - they're toasty and sk=
in-tight.
I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback on a=
TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently, scared the he=
ll out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood. When you're cutting w=
ith a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes jumping around. I may just sta=
rt using my saber-saw to cross cut stuff after that thrill...
Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw cros=
scuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both sides of the =
cut intact?
woodchucker wrote:
> I just took a kickback to the gut.
> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back
> into me.
>
> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually
> does not happen, but somehow it did ..
>
> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>
> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish
> piece by hand up against the fence... there was enough material
> contacting the fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>
>
> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
>
>
>
>
I'm very sorry to hear of your incident. I ordered (Lew's recommended)
Bies. splitter earlier today. Would a splitter have made a difference
in your circumstances?
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "woodchucker" wrote:
>
>> I just took a kickback to the gut.
>> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
>> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back
>> into me.
>>
>> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually
>> does not happen, but somehow it did ..
>>
>> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
>> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
>> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>>
>> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish
>> piece by hand up against the fence... there was enough material
>> contacting the fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>>
>>
>> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
> -----------------------------------------------
> http://tinyurl.com/3uxteay
>
> Lew
>
Hey, I helped my wife order that for me for Christmas today! That and a
basketball.
Bill
I have been there and done this.
Sorry......it happens.....
You know once when I was working on a side panel for cabinet.....
I was almost finished.
I decided to cut the side panel.....1/4 " material by about 2' by 30"
free hand on table saw.....
It grabbed the blade, and made a full circle....
My hands were right there, and lucky I was quick to miss the blade.......
Never again.....
You know that is why they call them "Accidents"
John
"woodchucker" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I just took a kickback to the gut.
I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into me.
I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does
not happen, but somehow it did ..
Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
Haven't been since I started using for welding.
I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
--
Jeff
"Jeff Mazur" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc.
> for circ-saw crosscuts, especially mid-board, where
> you're trying to keep both sides of the cut intact?
I use a couple of saw horses, 2x4s across them as support, set depth of cut
1/4-1/2" into the 2x4s.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 12/7/2013 4:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> I just took a kickback to the gut.
> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into
> me.
I suppose there is a lesson there, that even the lowly, what I would
call masonite, is as dangerous as any hardwood. I suspect the danger lay
in that is more flexible...
Hoping for a good recovery from your war wound. The only ones who never
get hurt are the ones who do nothing.
My 24 tooth 10" Freud ripper came a day ago. It looks like it should
command respect!
Cheers,
Jeff
>
> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does
> not happen, but somehow it did ..
>
> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>
> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
> by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
> fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>
>
> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
>
>
>
>
>
> Nice idea! I was planning a 4'x8' cutting table but this sounds like
> a better idea, or even a "topper". The pieces are easily replaced.
>
> I've basically done the same thing for my truck so I can haul 12'
> sheetrock (to finish the basement) and siding (this spring's task). I
> left them whole, vertically, for support, and then used 1/4-20
> cross-nuts and bolts to hold it all together.
To the OP:
The most basic thing I have not heard anyone mention, so I feel like someone
needs to.
NEVER cut a piece of lumber with the circ saw between the supports. One
side of the cut must be free to fall away due to gravity, or at the very
least it can be laying flat on support like the grid or Styrofoam ideas.
Cutting between the supports WILL cause kick-back EVERY time.
Sorry if that was too basic.
--
Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Jeff Mazur wrote:
> On Monday, December 9, 2013 3:17:56 AM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:
> (snip)
>>
>> To the OP:
>>
>>
>>
>> The most basic thing I have not heard anyone mention, so I feel like
>> someone
>>
>> needs to.
>>
>>
>>
>> NEVER cut a piece of lumber with the circ saw between the supports.
>> One
>>
>> side of the cut must be free to fall away due to gravity, or at the
>> very
>>
>> least it can be laying flat on support like the grid or Styrofoam
>> ideas.
>>
>> Cutting between the supports WILL cause kick-back EVERY time.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sorry if that was too basic.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jim in NC
>>
>
> Not at all too basic - NOTHING'S too basic for me, just starting. I
> will in the future either allow fall-away or use solid support with a
> sacrifice surface beneath if I need a production-grade cut mid-board.
> Thanks to all!
It also does not hurt to have 4 saw horses around - two to support each
piece on both sides of the cut.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 12/9/13, 8:50 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Jeff Mazur wrote:
>> On Monday, December 9, 2013 3:17:56 AM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:
>> (snip)
>>>
>>> To the OP:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The most basic thing I have not heard anyone mention, so I feel like
>>> someone
>>>
>>> needs to.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> NEVER cut a piece of lumber with the circ saw between the supports.
>>> One
>>>
>>> side of the cut must be free to fall away due to gravity, or at the
>>> very
>>>
>>> least it can be laying flat on support like the grid or Styrofoam
>>> ideas.
>>>
>>> Cutting between the supports WILL cause kick-back EVERY time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry if that was too basic.
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Jim in NC
>>>
>>
>> Not at all too basic - NOTHING'S too basic for me, just starting. I
>> will in the future either allow fall-away or use solid support with a
>> sacrifice surface beneath if I need a production-grade cut mid-board.
>> Thanks to all!
>
> It also does not hurt to have 4 saw horses around - two to support each
> piece on both sides of the cut.
>
I usually try to have two sacrificial 2x4s around for things like this.
The 2x4s sit across the sawhorses with the plywood sitting on the 2x4s,
running the length of the plywood.
As with the foam sheet, you set the blade depth to just clear the
gullets of the teeth. The blade only cuts into the 2x4s about a 1/4-1/2"
and they still fully support the plywood with no "drop-off" section and
no need to worry where the sawhorses are positioned.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/9/13, 9:22 AM, Leon wrote:
> Actually, these look pretty cool. Saw horses, short or tall work
> benches, shelf storage units, stool. Very versatile.
>
> http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2013/12/05/stacking-shop-stools/
Those are brilliant. Bookmarked.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/9/13, 11:36 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 12/9/2013 10:23 AM, Michael wrote:
>> On Saturday, December 7, 2013 9:24:32 PM UTC-6, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>> Agree on the sled. I have a 4' and 8' version of the saw guides
>> pictured here. They work well.
>> http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497
>>
> That's similar to what I have, but rather than thicker mine are thinner
> so I get the max depth on cuts. I used tempered hardboard.
>
> It's efficient and does what I need.
>
If you make a saw guide like this, take the extra time and effort to
make darn sure it's straight. I have yet to see a 1x4 that was straight.
You might be better off to use the factory edge of a good sheet of
plywood for the guide fence.
If you do use a 1x4 or similar wood stock, use something you know is
straight as a reference when attaching it to the thinner plywood sheet.
Or take care to strike a good, clean line with a chalk-line first.
However you do it, it should be checked after making the first cut by
placing the guide on a long surface, scribing a line along the newly cut
guide edge. Then rotate the whole thing 180degrees, and align it to the
line you just scribed. Scribe a new line very close to or on top of the
first line. Inspect the two lines. If they are perfectly parallel or on
top of one another, your guide is straight. If they do not stay
parallel, but look like very elongated parentheses (curving in or out),
the guide is not straight.
If you will be using this cutting guide to rough cut sheathing for
framing carpentry, then don't worry about doing this check. If you're
using the guide for cutting finish plywood for cabinets and bookcases,
etc., it will be well worth your effort to take these additional steps
in making your guide. Even a minute error that makes your guide
non-straight will multiply itself, creating poor joinery and gaps in seems.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/9/13, 2:06 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/9/2013 11:19 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/9/13, 9:22 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> Actually, these look pretty cool. Saw horses, short or tall work
>>> benches, shelf storage units, stool. Very versatile.
>>>
>>> http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2013/12/05/stacking-shop-stools/
>>
>> Those are brilliant. Bookmarked.
>>
>>
>
>
> And only take up about 2 square feet of floor space when stacked and
> stowed away. It would not be a stretch to stack 4 units.
You read my mind.
Those four in combination with a hollow core interior door...
BAM! instant assembly table.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 01:03:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 12/8/2013 3:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 14:56:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/8/2013 12:50 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:52a3e66f$0$1200
>>>> [email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
>>>>> can.
>>>>> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
>>>>> support it on
>>>>> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>>>>>
>>>>> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>>>>>
>>>>> Have fun.
>>>>>
>>>>> Lew
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've used thinner foam on the floor when cutting things down. Since the
>>>> foam is supported by the floor, it only needs to be 3/4" or so thick. I
>>>> set the blade depth to 1/8" or so below the work piece and cut.
>>>>
>>>> Puckdropper
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Actually the foam only has to space the panels apart from each other.
>>> Typically I will pile my plywood on top of the 2x4 grid setting on top
>>> of my saw horses and place the 3/4' foam between the top and next down
>>> sheet.
>>
>> Doesn't the (styro, I assume) foam create all sorts of staticy blobs
>> that stick to everything in the room? I know the track saw is suppose
>> to get it all but from the bottom, too?
>>
>
>I use the foam insulation board that has the film on both sides. But a
>little of the foam gets out but not much, probably more saw dust than foam.
No static, sticking it to everything in the room? Whenever I touch
styrofoam packing, it's all over the place, sticking to anything
that's non-metallic.
On 12/8/2013 8:20 AM, j wrote:
> On 12/7/2013 4:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> I just took a kickback to the gut.
>> I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
>> Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into
>> me.
>
> I suppose there is a lesson there, that even the lowly, what I would
> call masonite, is as dangerous as any hardwood. I suspect the danger lay
> in that is more flexible...
>
> Hoping for a good recovery from your war wound. The only ones who never
> get hurt are the ones who do nothing.
>
> My 24 tooth 10" Freud ripper came a day ago. It looks like it should
> command respect!
>
> Cheers,
> Jeff
>
>>
>> I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does
>> not happen, but somehow it did ..
>>
>> Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
>> uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
>> Haven't been since I started using for welding.
>>
>> I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
>> by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
>> fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
>>
>>
>> Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
As previously mentioned I too use a 2x4 2'x8' grid that sets on top of
saw horses which also serves as a work surface when I toss a couple of
4'x4' sheets of 3/4" plywood on top.
On 12/9/2013 10:23 AM, Michael wrote:
> On Saturday, December 7, 2013 9:24:32 PM UTC-6, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Jeff Mazur" wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments,
>>
>> basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear
>>
>> under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy
>>
>> long sleeve shirt threatening to ruin my day (or life). Highly
>>
>> recommend - they're toasty and skin-tight.
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Might have to look into the above if these temps continue
>>
>> here in SoCal tonight.
>>
>>
>>
>> 50F is tough duty these days<G>.
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>>
>> I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback
>>
>> on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently,
>>
>> scared the hell out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood.
>>
>> When you're cutting with a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes
>>
>> jumping around. I may just start using my saber-saw to cross cut
>>
>> stuff after that thrill...
>>
>>
>>
>> Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw
>>
>> crosscuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both
>>
>> sides of the cut intact?
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> 1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you
>>
>> can.
>>
>> 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and
>>
>> support it on
>>
>> a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.
>>
>>
>>
>> Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.
>>
>>
>>
>> Have fun.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lew
>
> Agree on the sled. I have a 4' and 8' version of the saw guides pictured here. They work well.
> http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497
>
That's similar to what I have, but rather than thicker mine are thinner
so I get the max depth on cuts. I used tempered hardboard.
It's efficient and does what I need.
--
Jeff
On Sat, 07 Dec 2013 16:00:28 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I just took a kickback to the gut.
>I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time.
>Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into me.
That's odd. How big of a piece?
Good to hear that you're OK. The real risk is getting the fingers in
the sharp bits.
>I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does
>not happen, but somehow it did ..
Since it was the offcut piece, how would alignment have mattered? I
don't use the gripper for the table saw. Don't like it. I do use
feather boards and push sticks rather liberally, though.
>Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too
>uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron...
>Haven't been since I started using for welding.
I stand off to the side, but I understand. It doesn't seem natural on
a table saw, as it does (at least to me) on a SCMS or RAS.
>I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece
>by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the
>fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.
The fingers are the worry. Small pieces are dangerous.
>Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..
Ouch. As long as you're not seriously hurt, it's called "education".
On 12/9/2013 2:23 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/9/13, 2:06 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/9/2013 11:19 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 12/9/13, 9:22 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> Actually, these look pretty cool. Saw horses, short or tall work
>>>> benches, shelf storage units, stool. Very versatile.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2013/12/05/stacking-shop-stools/
>>>
>>> Those are brilliant. Bookmarked.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> And only take up about 2 square feet of floor space when stacked and
>> stowed away. It would not be a stretch to stack 4 units.
>
> You read my mind.
> Those four in combination with a hollow core interior door...
> BAM! instant assembly table.
>
>
I just drew up the things in Sketchup and imported into cut list plus.
A sheet of plywood will build all four with the exception of the four
bottom panels, I'd make those from 1/4" ply.
On 12/9/2013 8:50 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry if that was too basic.
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Jim in NC
>>>
>>
>> Not at all too basic - NOTHING'S too basic for me, just starting. I
>> will in the future either allow fall-away or use solid support with a
>> sacrifice surface beneath if I need a production-grade cut mid-board.
>> Thanks to all!
>
> It also does not hurt to have 4 saw horses around - two to support each
> piece on both sides of the cut.
>
Actually, these look pretty cool. Saw horses, short or tall work
benches, shelf storage units, stool. Very versatile.
http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2013/12/05/stacking-shop-stools/