I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
or cons, thoughts or rants?
Thanks.
--
In article <[email protected]>, Jim Murphy
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
I would probably either just use rockwool, or put up cheap plywood,
then rockwool, to help absorb the noise from the shop. A hard surface
will make your shop like the inside of a drum DAMHIKT
>
> I would probably either just use rockwool, or put up cheap plywood,
> then rockwool, to help absorb the noise from the shop. A hard surface
> will make your shop like the inside of a drum DAMHIKT
I definitely agree with this. I worked in a shop where they enclosed
the finishing loft to contain fumes. They used 1/4" luan and the noise
resonating around the shop was wicked.
"Jim Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
> dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
> pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
>
Is it just me, or does this topic come up every few weeks? :)
"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I would recommend the sheet rock and insulation.
>
> 1. Its not expesive
> 2. It's fire resistant
> 3. If you do puncture it its a easy fix as well.
> 4. I have been told its fire code around here.
>
>
> Al
>
No question in my mind either, sheet rock, period!
A buddy on mine cheeped out and used 1/4" luan plywood on his ceiling. A
year later he screwed sheet rock up after tearing the warped plywood out.
This is one job you want to do once, do it right!
Greg
On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:15:31 -0400, "Jim Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
>workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
>kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
>up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
>or cons, thoughts or rants?
>Thanks.
Got rafters or studs?
I put 16" wide pieces of 1 1/2" rigid foam between the studs and then used
drywall screws to cover it with (very cheap) white sort-of-wood paneling...
It made a nice quiet place out of a very loud room and keeps the heat out a bit
in summer..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:15:31 -0400, "Jim Murphy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
>workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
>kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
>up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
>or cons, thoughts or rants?
>Thanks.
I like the drywall idea. Easy to paint, cheap, keeps clean and
non-flammable.
3/8" rough sawn plywood, also called roughtex. Most any
decent lumber company will carry it.
Rent a panel lifter and if you don't have one, buy a BIG
staple gun that can shoot the larger staples.(1-2")
http://www.portercable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2612
Jim Murphy wrote:
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
>
>
"Jim Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
> dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
> pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
>
I don't know anything about carpentry, but that doesn't stop me from giving
an opinion...
Cheap paneling is probably the most inexpensive material. I have never seen
it used on a ceiling, so there is probably a good reason not to.
It's only required for fire code if there is living space on the other side.
Since he said ridge vents, I don't think that's the case.
"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Murphy wrote:
>> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
>> dedicated
>> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
>> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge
>> vents
>> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
>> pros
>> or cons, thoughts or rants?
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
> Sheetrock "may" be needed to meet fire code. I'd check with your
> insurance agent before trying luan. I'd also add 6" or more of
> insulation. I'm planning on 8-12" here in SC. Once I clear enough
> floorspace for scaffolding or ladders to work on the 12' ceilings, the
> ones that already have lights and power outlets:-(
> Joe
"Jim Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
> dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
> pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
>
I used foil faced foam board. It was easy for one man and a 'deadman' to
handle. I also insulated between the rafters but I don't know if you want
to go to much extent. I have seldom regretted doing too good of a job.
Jim Murphy wrote:
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
>
>
Sheetrock "may" be needed to meet fire code. I'd check with your
insurance agent before trying luan. I'd also add 6" or more of
insulation. I'm planning on 8-12" here in SC. Once I clear enough
floorspace for scaffolding or ladders to work on the 12' ceilings, the
ones that already have lights and power outlets:-(
Joe
On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 20:18:29 -0500, "James E. Cannon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>It's only required for fire code if there is living space on the other side.
>Since he said ridge vents, I don't think that's the case.
Exactly... Here in CA you see houses with only the walls connected to the house
being sheet rocked..
>
>
>"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Jim Murphy wrote:
>>> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
>>> dedicated
>>> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
>>> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge
>>> vents
>>> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>>> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
>>> pros
>>> or cons, thoughts or rants?
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>> Sheetrock "may" be needed to meet fire code. I'd check with your
>> insurance agent before trying luan. I'd also add 6" or more of
>> insulation. I'm planning on 8-12" here in SC. Once I clear enough
>> floorspace for scaffolding or ladders to work on the 12' ceilings, the
>> ones that already have lights and power outlets:-(
>> Joe
>
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:15:31 -0400, "Jim Murphy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
>workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
>kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
>up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
>or cons, thoughts or rants?
>Thanks.
I used drywall after insulating. The first winter it was unfinished.
No way to warm it up. After insulating and doing the drywall I can
usually get by with turning the heat on for about a half hour or so
then turning it off and I'm OK for most of the day. Exceptions for
the coldest days. North Mississippi.
Drywall finishes smooth so dust doesn't cling excessively. I painted
mine white and the floor light seemed to really increase with the same
fixtures as compared to when it was unfinished.
Only downside in my view is having to float the drywall. I can do it
but hate it.
Frank
In a recent magazine article, I saw an idea for cutting the drywall in
strips and laying them between the ceiling joists, suspended by cleats or
battens fastened to the lower edge of the joists. It didn't mention how to
treat the short drywall joints at the ends of the strips, but some cross
blocking with similar cleats/battens should do it. No taping or joint
compound required; provides utilities access advantage of a drop ceiling but
no headspace is lost; fluorescent lighting fixtures can be installed between
joists in place of some of the drywall strips; drywall strips can easily be
replaced if damaged; much cheaper than a suspended ceiling; arguably easier
to install than full 4'x8' drywall sheets; bottom of joists remain exposed
to hang things from (however, respect their structural integrity and load
capacity); drywall, cleats/battens and bottom of joists can be painted for
light reflectivity before or after installation. Sounded like a win-win to
me. Note that where ceiling drywall is required by code, this approach may
not be acceptable.
David Merrill
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:15:31 -0400, "Jim Murphy" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
dedicated
> >workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> >kind of ceiling up
> snip...
>
> I used drywall after insulating.
> snip...
>
> Drywall finishes smooth so dust doesn't cling excessively. I painted
> mine white and the floor light seemed to really increase with the same
> fixtures as compared to when it was unfinished.
>
> Only downside in my view is having to float the drywall. I can do it
> but hate it.
>
> Frank
Depending on how much work you are willing to do and what your budget will
bear, here is what I would consider doing. If ceiling joists are more than
16" on center cross brace the joists at 16" on center and use BC plywood.
Use 3/8 or thicker plywood and screw it up there. If the joists / cross
braces are 16" on center the ceiling will stay flat. Having a strong plywood
ceiling will allow you to screw things up there anywhere you want. For heavy
loads a molly bolt through the plywood will be very strong.
If you think sheetrock will be quieter attach it to the plywood and still
get all the plywood benefits.
Charlie
"Jim Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
> dedicated
> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
> pros
> or cons, thoughts or rants?
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
>
>
I would recommend the sheet rock and insulation.
1. Its not expesive
2. It's fire resistant
3. If you do puncture it its a easy fix as well.
4. I have been told its fire code around here.
Al
opinions are like A@#wholes everyone has one! :)
"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Murphy wrote:
>> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
>> dedicated
>> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
>> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge
>> vents
>> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
>> pros
>> or cons, thoughts or rants?
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
> Sheetrock "may" be needed to meet fire code. I'd check with your
> insurance agent before trying luan. I'd also add 6" or more of
> insulation. I'm planning on 8-12" here in SC. Once I clear enough
> floorspace for scaffolding or ladders to work on the 12' ceilings, the
> ones that already have lights and power outlets:-(
> Joe
What, no tongue and groove bead board? Come on, you're a
woodworker... ;-)
I'd use 1/4 luan, but I'd nail or screw it. I wouldn't trust staples
up over my head.
Also, make sure you mark where those trusses are before you cover them
- it's quite handy to be able to screw in a hanger or something to the
ceiling. Or your DC pipe. Or lights.
"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I would recommend the sheet rock and insulation.
>
> 1. Its not expesive
> 2. It's fire resistant
> 3. If you do puncture it its a easy fix as well.
> 4. I have been told its fire code around here.
>
>
> Al
>
> opinions are like A@#wholes everyone has one! :)
And everyone else's stink...
>
>
>
>
> "Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Jim Murphy wrote:
>>> I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30
>>> dedicated
>>> workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put
>>> some
>>> kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge
>>> vents
>>> up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
>>> trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas,
>>> pros
>>> or cons, thoughts or rants?
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>> Sheetrock "may" be needed to meet fire code. I'd check with your
>> insurance agent before trying luan. I'd also add 6" or more of
>> insulation. I'm planning on 8-12" here in SC. Once I clear enough
>> floorspace for scaffolding or ladders to work on the 12' ceilings, the
>> ones that already have lights and power outlets:-(
>> Joe
>
>