<[email protected]> wrote ...
> Thing is id like a collapsible work bench made of
> metal. Know of something?
>
> I'm a soon to be college student and want this unit to
> keep a desktop PC on and also as a stand up desk
A heavy music stand with a cast base would work, as would a keyboard stand.
Timothy Juvenal
Sorry, I apparently mis-understood. I thought you were looking for a way to
play with the height to get it right for you. Didn't sound like it, from
your followup post.
WRT a collapsible setup, I'd do it with 2 H structures supporting both ends
of the bench/desk. Some stretchers in the mid-section to hold it steady
(along with being attached to the top), and you should be good to go.
That's the structure of my work-bench, and it seems fine. Should break down
into two H sections, the stretchers, and the top. All of it should be about
6" thick, when folded down. And since you can make the stretchers out of
tubafours and the plywood top, cost should be minimal.
Clint
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Clint" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>First thing popped into my head
>
> I just had a thought!
>
> A standard workbench will probably work OK
>
> I want it to be at he correct height that its easy to
> write on like a stand up desk tho.
>
> A workbench is narrow and that would work as well
>
> Thing is id like a collapsible work bench made of
> metal. Know of something?
>
> I'm a soon to be college student and want this unit to
> keep a desktop PC on and also as a stand up desk
>
> think a collapsible workbench would do it for me?
"Clint" <[email protected]> wrote:
>First thing popped into my head
I just had a thought!
A standard workbench will probably work OK
I want it to be at he correct height that its easy to
write on like a stand up desk tho.
A workbench is narrow and that would work as well
Thing is id like a collapsible work bench made of
metal. Know of something?
I'm a soon to be college student and want this unit to
keep a desktop PC on and also as a stand up desk
think a collapsible workbench would do it for me?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C65E2D.55855AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In your case, the "doors" could be two frames made of Two By Four lumber =
about 18" by 24" each joined at the corners with half-laps and each =
hinged=20
(two hinges per) to the wall. The top, with the addition of two small =
holes=20
at one end, could be hung on the "closed" frames from two "no head" =
screws=20
(cabinet shop or HD) when not in use. This configuration would require =
less=20
than three inches by 24" width and whatever height you required when not =
in=20
use and would take up the width and depth of the "top" when in use.
If you want it portable, too, just replace the "wall" with another two =
by four frame and hinge the end frames to it. At the bottom front of =
each end frame, screw on a rubber foot and do the same in the middle of =
the back frame - giving three points of contact with the floor for =
stability and to take "out of square/flat frames or floor into =
consideration.
Then the whole thing (2 pieces) will fold up into a parcel 36 x 18 x 6 =
3/4" for transport.
o=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do
o=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D| =
|=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do
Wings |=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do are less then depth =
of plywood/MDF top
Back =
o=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do is less than width of plywood top, and
greater than combine width of the two Wings
NOTE: The frames could be made from 1 by aluminum square tubing as well, =
A bit more expensive, but smaller and lighter. Our ACE hardware has =
corner fittings designed to fit into such square tubing to facilitate =
making rectangular assemblies in the home shop. And a few pop rivets =
would be all you'd need to fasten it all together.
<[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> I'm racking my brain trying to come up with a cheap way
> to make a desk at stand up height
>=20
> I want to try the idea before buying anything
>=20
> I have a piece of plywood for the surface... but what
> can I use for the legs or supports that will get it at
> standing height....abt 36" I think
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C65E2D.55855AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2802" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>In your case, the "doors" could =
be two=20
frames made of Two By Four lumber <BR>about 18" by 24" each joined at =
the=20
corners with half-laps and each hinged <BR>(two hinges per) to the wall. =
The=20
top, with the addition of two small holes <BR>at one end, could be hung =
on the=20
"closed" frames from two "no head" screws <BR>(cabinet shop or HD) when =
not in=20
use. This configuration would require less <BR>than three inches by 24" =
width=20
and whatever height you required when not in <BR>use and would take up =
the width=20
and depth of the "top" when in use.<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>If you want it portable, too, =
just replace=20
the "wall" with another two by four frame and hinge the end frames to =
it. At the=20
bottom front of each end frame, screw on a rubber foot and do the same =
in the=20
middle of the back frame - giving three points of contact with the floor =
for=20
stability and to take "out of square/flat frames or floor into=20
consideration.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Then the whole thing (2 pieces) =
will fold=20
up into a parcel 36 x 18 x 6 3/4" for transport.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New"=20
size=3D2>o=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>o=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D| =20
|=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Wings =
|=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do are less then=20
depth of plywood/MDF top</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Back =20
o=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Do is less than width of plywood top,=20
and</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>greater than combine width of =
the two=20
Wings</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>NOTE: The frames could be made =
from 1 by=20
aluminum square tubing as well, A bit more expensive, but smaller and =
lighter.=20
Our ACE hardware has corner fittings designed to fit into such square =
tubing to=20
facilitate making rectangular assemblies in the home shop. And a few pop =
rivets=20
would be all you'd need to fasten it all together.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2><</FONT><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email protected]"><FONT face=3D"Courier New"=20
size=3D2>[email protected]</FONT></A><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>> wrote in=20
message </FONT><A =
href=3D"news:[email protected]"><FONT=20
face=3D"Courier New"=20
size=3D2>news:[email protected]</FONT></A><FONT =
face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>...</FONT></DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>>=20
I'm racking my brain trying to come up with a cheap way<BR>> to make =
a desk=20
at stand up height<BR>> <BR>> I want to try the idea before buying =
anything<BR>> <BR>> I have a piece of plywood for the surface... =
but=20
what<BR>> can I use for the legs or supports that will get it =
at<BR>>=20
standing height....abt 36" I think</FONT></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C65E2D.55855AE0--
Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
>(2) Pair of saw horses (about 5.00)
has to be stand up height
do they make saw horses that high? that's 36" or
higher
First thing popped into my head was pipe clamps. Most of them have holes to
screw through, don't they? If you don't have 4 of them, they're useful
later, at least. Put the fixed end down on the ground, screw the plywood to
the moving end, and adjust the height as required.
Alternatively, take 4 tubafours that are more than long enough. You might
want to join them together somehow to add some stability to the mix/mess.
Then clamp support pieces at your experimental height, keeping all 4 pieces
in sync with each other. Should work "good-enough" to get an idea of what
height to use.
Clint
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm racking my brain trying to come up with a cheap way
> to make a desk at stand up height
>
> I want to try the idea before buying anything
>
> I have a piece of plywood for the surface... but what
> can I use for the legs or supports that will get it at
> standing height....abt 36" I think
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm racking my brain trying to come up with a cheap way
> to make a desk at stand up height
>
> I want to try the idea before buying anything
>
> I have a piece of plywood for the surface... but what
> can I use for the legs or supports that will get it at
> standing height....abt 36" I think
Empty cardboard boxes (if necessary stacked to a 36" height).
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
As I compose this , my laptop is sitting on a piece of 3/4" MDF about 18"
deep and 36" wide.
I have a series of old kitchen cabinets lining one wall of my shop and have
opened the doors of a 36" wide cabinet and set the MDF across them. I'm
seated, of course, by the approach could easily be adapted to your
situation.
In your case, the "doors" could be two frames made of Two By Four lumber
about 18" by 24" each joined at the corners with half-laps and each hinged
(two hinges per) to the wall. The top, with the addition of two small holes
at one end, could be hung on the "closed" frames from two "no head" screws
(cabinet shop or HD) when not in use. This configuration would require less
than three inches by 24" width and whatever height you required when not in
use and would take up the width and depth of the "top" when in use.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Clint" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>First thing popped into my head
>
> I just had a thought!
>
> A standard workbench will probably work OK
>
> I want it to be at he correct height that its easy to
> write on like a stand up desk tho.
>
> A workbench is narrow and that would work as well
>
> Thing is id like a collapsible work bench made of
> metal. Know of something?
>
> I'm a soon to be college student and want this unit to
> keep a desktop PC on and also as a stand up desk
>
> think a collapsible workbench would do it for me?
A 55 gallon drum is 36". You could make a square or rectangular
top that friction fit in the rim recess, cut away the top, or
screw through he bottom into the wood top. If you make it work
with the top cut out, you could use the interior for some type of
storage. It would be possible to just have a top and buy, beg,
borrow, or stxxxx an empty drum at your college town. Throw it
away, give it away, or sell it and get another one next year.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm racking my brain trying to come up with a cheap way
> to make a desk at stand up height
>
> I want to try the idea before buying anything
>
> I have a piece of plywood for the surface... but what
> can I use for the legs or supports that will get it at
> standing height....abt 36" I think
"Clint" <[email protected]> wrote:
>All of it should be about
>6" thick, when folded down.
Just to add a bit:
Doesn't need to be collapsible per se
Just needs to be easily disassembled so parts can be
move in small sedan car
"Hambone Slim" <[email protected]> wrote:
>A heavy music stand with a cast base would work, as would a keyboard stand.
good idea on music stand
Music stuff would HAVE to be designed to be easily
"transported" correct?
Might be expensive tho huh
You see....I will be a college student next fall at age
48. Ha!
Everything I own possession wise will need to be
"portable" or at least easily disassembled so as to be
moved in a small 4 door Mazda sedan
Frugal desk ????
Sure....
(1) Half sheet of birch plywood $25
(2) Pair of saw horses (about 5.00)
Party on frugal guy..
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm racking my brain trying to come up with a cheap way
> to make a desk at stand up height
clipped part about pain and suffering....
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>A 55 gallon drum is 36".
we actually have some plastic drums here at work