I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
missing something!
Dave
Thanks for the tip on a wood source. I just might run over there tomorrow.
Dave
Patriarch wrote:
> David <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>SP,
>>The glue line I'm assuming would be prominent ONLY on the end pieces;
>>not the front, as the glue line is inline with the grain on the front
>>edge. Thanks for the suggestion of turning the piece over. I'll check
>>with my local supplier for prices on thicker oak--that might be the
>>wisest choice if it's not too big a bump.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>
> The price premium per b/f on 6/4 RO is pretty minimal at PALS in Oakland.
> They have a San Jose yard too.
>
> www.pals4wood.com
>
> Patriarch
1. The glue line will show quite a bit.
2. To minimize the obvious line you can rip\crosscut and roll the piece
over for a bookmatch effect on the end and side grain.
3. If the top was 3' x 6' that's about $65 worth of 4/4 Red Oak at my
local prices. I'd spend the extra $50 and go with 6/4.
4. It's likely a few hours of extra work to do the lapping by the time
your done with all the extra work it causes. That's worth $50 bucks
right there.
5. There is always the chance of severe problems if things go bad and
regardless you'll have that glue line forever.
Hey, I didn't realize you guys were local. The PALS in Oakland is my
favorite source. Open till 2:00 (I think) on Saturday too. They also
let you hand pick. I don't think the San Jose site has a walkin type
operation.
P.S. The Oaklnad site is not in the best neighborhood. The store has
their own fenced in parking lot so that's cool but you don't want to
get lost in that area or have a breakdown.
BW
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Breadboard ends hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain
> showing, I just want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.
>
> Dave
Why not make thick breadboard ends?
Will it work? That table that has been sitting in my dining room for 30
years says it will. The outer portion is 2 1/2" thick. Center is about
half that.
Hi Dave,
I think you are right. I remember seeing
Norm do the same thing on the NYW.
Anyhow, since both pieces will expand
the same amount, you should be fine.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>, David
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
> it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
> preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
> about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
> them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
> underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
> give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
> and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
> missing something!
>
> Dave
Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to
"cleaner". I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I
attached them like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws
in elongated holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what,
exactly? Certainly it's more work, and the look is different, but
better?? Breadboard ends hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the
end grain showing, I just want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it
really is.
Dave
CrackedHands wrote:
> I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
> edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
> how it's done.
>
David wrote:
> I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I
> want it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
> preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
> about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
> them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long
> pieces underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness
> down to give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be
> very obvious and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me
> know if I'm missing something!
I've done exactly the same thing, works fine.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Charles Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to
> make it look thicker.
>
That's a nice looking console, Charlie. I assume the doors open to reveal
storage & electronics?
Patriarch
David <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
> it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
> preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
> about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
> them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
> underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
> give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
> and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
> missing something!
>
> Dave
The process should work, theoretically. I mean, it is essentially a
bookmatch technique, and you're going to be showing end grain.
It would be pretty easy to mock something like this up from scrap, to see
how the glue-up and proposed finishes look.
Having done a table top in 6/4 red oak, I can tell you that you'll likely
have better success in keeping the thinner stock flat than the thicker
stuff. No reasonable sized cleat is going to easily control a 6/4 slab
that wants to move.
On the other hand, what Charlie showed, where he emphasized the line with a
contrasting wood, looks pretty sweet, too. Depends on the look you're
after.
Patriarch
David <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> SP,
> The glue line I'm assuming would be prominent ONLY on the end pieces;
> not the front, as the glue line is inline with the grain on the front
> edge. Thanks for the suggestion of turning the piece over. I'll check
> with my local supplier for prices on thicker oak--that might be the
> wisest choice if it's not too big a bump.
>
> Dave
>
The price premium per b/f on 6/4 RO is pretty minimal at PALS in Oakland.
They have a San Jose yard too.
www.pals4wood.com
Patriarch
"Charles Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a
> plan, just a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only
> requirement from swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have
> to see the equipment. my cats like to sleep on the open doors.
>
The notion of working from a rough sketch and a requirement adds a certain
thrill to the project. Krenov describes something similar (on his plane,
not mine ;-)) in one or two of his books. When you only have a limited
amount of a certain wood, and getting something from another plank would
make it look different, it either succeeds or fails.
Sort of the cabinetmaker's version of working without a net.
Patriarch
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Hey, I didn't realize you guys were local. The PALS in Oakland is my
> favorite source. Open till 2:00 (I think) on Saturday too. They also
> let you hand pick. I don't think the San Jose site has a walkin type
> operation.
>
> P.S. The Oaklnad site is not in the best neighborhood. The store has
> their own fenced in parking lot so that's cool but you don't want to
> get lost in that area or have a breakdown.
>
> BW
>
I went over there one Saturday morning, when there was a funeral at one of
the neighborhood churches for a gang/driveby shooting victim. To say that
all of the law enforcement resources available were 'on visible patrol'
would be an understatement. And _everyone_ in the neighborhoods was alert,
nervous and watching.
The yard people at PALS Oakland are as helpful and nice a group as you
could ask for, anywhere.
And, by the way, I've never been better served at any Home Depot than at
the one in Emeryville, maybe 8 blocks from there.
Patriarch
SP,
The glue line I'm assuming would be prominent ONLY on the end pieces;
not the front, as the glue line is inline with the grain on the front
edge. Thanks for the suggestion of turning the piece over. I'll check
with my local supplier for prices on thicker oak--that might be the
wisest choice if it's not too big a bump.
Dave
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> 1. The glue line will show quite a bit.
> 2. To minimize the obvious line you can rip\crosscut and roll the piece
> over for a bookmatch effect on the end and side grain.
> 3. If the top was 3' x 6' that's about $65 worth of 4/4 Red Oak at my
> local prices. I'd spend the extra $50 and go with 6/4.
> 4. It's likely a few hours of extra work to do the lapping by the time
> your done with all the extra work it causes. That's worth $50 bucks
> right there.
> 5. There is always the chance of severe problems if things go bad and
> regardless you'll have that glue line forever.
>
i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to make it
look thicker.
http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/woodworking.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=375
regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to "cleaner".
> I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I attached them
> like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws in elongated
> holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what, exactly? Certainly
> it's more work, and the look is different, but better?? Breadboard ends
> hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain showing, I just
> want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.
>
> Dave
>
> CrackedHands wrote:
>
>> I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
>> edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
>> how it's done.
>>
bloodwood and red oak, finished with nitro lacquer.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Look very nice, Charlie. What wood is the dark stripe?
>
> Dave
>
> Charles Spitzer wrote:
>
>> i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to make
>> it look thicker.
>>
>> http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/woodworking.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=375
>>
>> regards,
>> charlie
>> cave creek, az
>>
>> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to "cleaner".
>>>I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I attached them
>>>like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws in elongated
>>>holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what, exactly? Certainly
>>>it's more work, and the look is different, but better?? Breadboard ends
>>>hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain showing, I just
>>>want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.
>>>
>>>Dave
>>>
>>>CrackedHands wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
>>>>edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
>>>>how it's done.
>>>>
>>
>>
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Charles Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to
>> make it look thicker.
>>
> That's a nice looking console, Charlie. I assume the doors open to reveal
> storage & electronics?
>
> Patriarch
yep. 3 flipper doors, with slideout shelves for everything so i don't have
to move it to get to the cabling. actually, about 9 months ago i asked about
horizontal flipper door mechanisms, and this was the application and final
result.
http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/woodworking.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=374
first time i used bloodwood. it has a very interesting smell that made me
hungry when i was milling it up.
it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a plan, just
a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only requirement from
swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have to see the equipment.
my cats like to sleep on the open doors.
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
Boy am I glad I read your post before venturing out this morning! I was
gonna go down to PALS SJ. I'll call them instead, to find out what they
carry and if there's a showroom. Thanks again.
Dave
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Hey, I didn't realize you guys were local. The PALS in Oakland is my
> favorite source. Open till 2:00 (I think) on Saturday too. They also
> let you hand pick. I don't think the San Jose site has a walkin type
> operation.
>
> P.S. The Oaklnad site is not in the best neighborhood. The store has
> their own fenced in parking lot so that's cool but you don't want to
> get lost in that area or have a breakdown.
>
> BW
>
If that's the case, I've had plenty of thrills in the shop! :)
Dave
Patriarch wrote:
> "Charles Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> <snip>
>
>>it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a
>>plan, just a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only
>>requirement from swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have
>>to see the equipment. my cats like to sleep on the open doors.
>>
>
> The notion of working from a rough sketch and a requirement adds a certain
> thrill to the project. Krenov describes something similar (on his plane,
> not mine ;-)) in one or two of his books. When you only have a limited
> amount of a certain wood, and getting something from another plank would
> make it look different, it either succeeds or fails.
>
> Sort of the cabinetmaker's version of working without a net.
>
> Patriarch
I didn't consider that 6/4 would be more difficult to keep flat over
time. I learn something every day here! :) If I decided to go with my
original plan, I'll glue up end pieces and then decide it if looks
hokey. I suppose I could go with the dovetailed (or just
tongue/grooved) method of attaching crossgrain molding to the endgrain top.
Dave
Patriarch wrote:
> David <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
>>it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
>>preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
>>about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
>>them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
>>underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
>>give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
>>and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
>>missing something!
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> The process should work, theoretically. I mean, it is essentially a
> bookmatch technique, and you're going to be showing end grain.
>
> It would be pretty easy to mock something like this up from scrap, to see
> how the glue-up and proposed finishes look.
>
> Having done a table top in 6/4 red oak, I can tell you that you'll likely
> have better success in keeping the thinner stock flat than the thicker
> stuff. No reasonable sized cleat is going to easily control a 6/4 slab
> that wants to move.
>
> On the other hand, what Charlie showed, where he emphasized the line with a
> contrasting wood, looks pretty sweet, too. Depends on the look you're
> after.
>
> Patriarch
Look very nice, Charlie. What wood is the dark stripe?
Dave
Charles Spitzer wrote:
> i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to make it
> look thicker.
>
> http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/woodworking.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=375
>
> regards,
> charlie
> cave creek, az
>
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to "cleaner".
>>I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I attached them
>>like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws in elongated
>>holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what, exactly? Certainly
>>it's more work, and the look is different, but better?? Breadboard ends
>>hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain showing, I just
>>want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>CrackedHands wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
>>>edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
>>>how it's done.
>>>
>
>
>