Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago. Well,
only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to prime and
paintthe following:
--painted (lightly) mudded ceilings (w/some light stains from welding
left by preoccupant)
--new (drywall) walls
--existing painted wall has lots of fresh repairs
Home Depot recommended (perhaps, of course) their Behr Premium Primer
for everything. "Interior" primer and paint. I would use the version
w/"stain blocking" on the ceiling. Workshop has the form of an attached
2-car garage in central Indiana.
Any feelings here whether this product ought to be suitable (then I
would use Behr ceiling flat white on the ceiling and eggshell on the walls).
The salesman made made a statement that seemed to me to be a little
silly: That "we recommend Behr paint go on top of Behr primer."
I did not tell him I was trying to save money. In fact, when I was
mentioning Kilz and Zinszer, he said "I can save you a few bucks" and he
advised me as indicated.
Was I given good advice? Anything you would you do different (and why?)
Iam off to fine-tune my drywall work and driver a few nails or screws a
little deeper (so I don't see the edges of their heads glistening at me...)
Cheers,
Bill
On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 9:15:09 PM UTC-5, PHT wrote:
> If it is a stain that continues to come through, then ....
.... then find the source of what's making the stain and stop/fix/remove whatever is causing it. If the drywall has been stained (wet with something?) so much, that the drywall has weakened, then replace that section of drywall.
The stain blocking aspect is shellac. Use whatever primer has the most shellac. I vote Zinsser Bulls Eye 123. If in doubt about the stained area(s), apply 2 coats on that/those spots.
Sonny
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:34:30 -0400, Bill wrote:
> Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
> aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago. Well,
> only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to prime and
> paintthe following:
>
> --painted (lightly) mudded ceilings (w/some light stains from welding
> left by preoccupant)
> --new (drywall) walls
> --existing painted wall has lots of fresh repairs
>
> Home Depot recommended (perhaps, of course) their Behr Premium Primer
> for everything. "Interior" primer and paint. I would use the version
> w/"stain blocking" on the ceiling. Workshop has the form of an attached
> 2-car garage in central Indiana.
>
> Any feelings here whether this product ought to be suitable (then I
> would use Behr ceiling flat white on the ceiling and eggshell on the walls).
>
personally, I would use egg shell on the ceiling and satin on the walls.
Two reasons, good light reflection and the ceiling would be much
easier to keep clean. Flat ceiling paint is a bitch to clean anything off
of.
basilisk
On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 11:04:23 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> The rule about a project taking "at least twice as long as you expect it =
to" definitely holds for me in this case. If I could start again from the b=
eginning, I would be a lot faster! : )=20
My woodshop remodel is in its 5th year. I only do the remodeling when I fe=
el like it, otherwise, I work on projects or sit & drink beer and look at w=
hat remodeling needs to be done, next, maybe.
Actually, I recently bought shingles, siding, etc, for finishing replacing =
the old roof and some ext. siding. I recently finished stripping and repai=
nting a set of wood windows and installed them & the interior casings/facin=
gs.
Even my upholstery shop is not completed. Still have some interior trim to=
install and someday I'll install new flooring.=20
> I think I took down my first taped joint twice.=20
Sometime after that I learned to wet the tape and mytaping results=20
improved considerably.=20
With the first mud coating, before applying your tape, make sure you apply =
the mud deep into the seams, between the drywall panels. You don't want an=
y air pockets between those panels, under your tape, or your tape may bubbl=
e up when wet or become loosened, later, after it dries. Fill all those vo=
ids, in the drywall, with mud, when taping.... Same with the wall-wall & wa=
ll-ceiling corners, fill those voids with mud (no air pockets), before tapi=
ng.
Sonny
"Bill" wrote:
> I'm practically ready to prime and paintthe following:
-------------------------------------------------
Had a friend who just went thru this and it was a total PITA
to get ceilings sealed and stop bleed thru. Finally got Zinszer
to seal.
I just finished sealing a piece of ply with wet Doug fir stiffeners
using Zinszer oil based sealer.
It was the only oil based product on the shelf and did a great job.
Based on my experience, I'd use the Zinszer oil base sealer and
get the job done right the first time.
BTW, Home Depot sold it in quart cans for about $10/quart which
covered about 30 square feet.
Lew
On 6/16/2013 7:19 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man, think!
>>>
>> Belt sander?
>>
>
> Maybe - if that's what you have been wanting. Might be kinda hard to
> justify to the wife, a new table saw for this particular need, so keep it in
> the realm of reason, but you get the idea...
Real men don't use the word "need" to justify NTAS (new tool acquisition
syndrome). They are confident enough to just say they "want" a...
Woe unto him who uses the word "need" at our Saturday morning breakfast
club. Good way to get booed right out of the restaurant. <g>
On 6/16/2013 11:47 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>> On 6/16/2013 7:19 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>
>>>>> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man,
>>>>> think!
>>>> Belt sander?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe - if that's what you have been wanting. Might be kinda hard to
>>> justify to the wife, a new table saw for this particular need, so
>>> keep it in the realm of reason, but you get the idea...
>>
>>
>> Real men don't use the word "need" to justify NTAS (new tool
>> acquisition syndrome). They are confident enough to just say they
>> "want" a...
>> Woe unto him who uses the word "need" at our Saturday morning
>> breakfast club. Good way to get booed right out of the restaurant.
>> <g>
>
> Regretably, this is true and I must confess I fall short on this part. I am
> inspired though, by your post, and I'm printing it out to hang on the wall
> as motivation.
You obviously suffered from a temporary lapse and appear appropriately
contrite. Go out and buy something nice for the shop and you will be
forgiven (except by SWMBO) <g>
'Twas a great father's day. Got something that I do not need but surely
want. Younger daughter and her hubby are expecting their first, a boy,
in December. Two granddaughters already... finally somebody to pass my
tools along to<g>
On 6/16/2013 7:16 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> 'Twas a great father's day. Got something that I do not need but
>> surely want. Younger daughter and her hubby are expecting their
>> first, a boy, in December. Two granddaughters already... finally
>> somebody to pass my tools along to<g>
>
> Good thing! I've got three now (two granddaughters, one grandson). They
> are great things to have. Similar things going on here - marrying off a
> daughter on Saturday (my birthday), and the last daughter just got engaged
> last week. More of those little things in our future. Each one of those
> little things is a good cause for a commemorative tool purchase.
Why didn't I think of that? A new tool commemorating the impending
birth? Oh, yeah, forgot, have bought a couple of new guns in the past
month. Certainly didn't n**d but did lust after both of them.<g>
>
On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:34:30 -0400, Bill wrote:
> Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
> aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago. Well,
> only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to prime and
> paintthe following:
>
> --painted (lightly) mudded ceilings (w/some light stains from welding
> left by preoccupant)
> --new (drywall) walls
> --existing painted wall has lots of fresh repairs
>
> Home Depot recommended (perhaps, of course) their Behr Premium Primer
> for everything. "Interior" primer and paint. I would use the version
> w/"stain blocking" on the ceiling. Workshop has the form of an attached
> 2-car garage in central Indiana.
>
> Any feelings here whether this product ought to be suitable (then I
> would use Behr ceiling flat white on the ceiling and eggshell on the
> walls).
>
> The salesman made made a statement that seemed to me to be a little
> silly: That "we recommend Behr paint go on top of Behr primer."
>
> I did not tell him I was trying to save money. In fact, when I was
> mentioning Kilz and Zinszer, he said "I can save you a few bucks" and he
> advised me as indicated.
>
> Was I given good advice? Anything you would you do different (and why?)
>
> Iam off to fine-tune my drywall work and driver a few nails or screws a
> little deeper (so I don't see the edges of their heads glistening at
> me...)
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
I would say it would depend on how persistent the stain is.
If it is a stain that continues to come through, then I would go
with the best blocker. I won't make a recommendation because I
have not run up against this problem. If you know of any painters
in the area they might be a good source to check on those
recommendations.
Paul T.
On 6/16/2013 5:03 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>
>
> You obviously suffered from a temporary lapse and appear appropriately
> contrite. Go out and buy something nice for the shop and you will be
> forgiven (except by SWMBO) <g>
>
> 'Twas a great father's day. Got something that I do not need but surely
> want. Younger daughter and her hubby are expecting their first, a boy,
> in December. Two granddaughters already... finally somebody to pass my
> tools along to<g>
>
>
>
I passed my tools along to my youngest daughter during our downsize last
year. We moved out of the mountains to a condo near the beach in
Carlsbad, CA. I did keep an ancient 12" bandsaw, a scrollsaw (both made
in the late 30s), most of the hand tools, and some assorted routers and
circ/recip saws. Maggy couldn't handle the winters any more ("good
winter - only 10 feet of snow). Myself? It is fun listening to a storm
outside, and waking in the morning with no snowplow berm to shovel out.
Oh but I couldn't quit WWing cold turkey. I bought a Craftsman hybrid
table saw which is working out quite well thank you.
mahalo,
jo4hn
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 7:19:23 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote: >> > Belt sander?=20
> Maybe - if that's what you have been wanting. Might be kinda hard to just=
ify to the wife, a new table saw for this particular need,=20
This one may be worth checking out. Looks like it may need a little cleani=
ng. Test drive it, on site. Call and ask if still available and for the =
serial number (research age). If reasonable (and delivery fee?), maybe the=
guy will help haul it to your house, also.
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/tls/3850320744.html
Sonny
On Thu, 13 Jun 2013 11:23:52 -0400, Bill wrote:
> basilisk wrote:
>> On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:34:30 -0400, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
>>> aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago. Well,
>>> only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to prime and
>>> paintthe following:
>>>
>>> --painted (lightly) mudded ceilings (w/some light stains from welding
>>> left by preoccupant)
>>> --new (drywall) walls
>>> --existing painted wall has lots of fresh repairs
>>>
>>> Home Depot recommended (perhaps, of course) their Behr Premium Primer
>>> for everything. "Interior" primer and paint. I would use the version
>>> w/"stain blocking" on the ceiling. Workshop has the form of an attached
>>> 2-car garage in central Indiana.
>>>
>>> Any feelings here whether this product ought to be suitable (then I
>>> would use Behr ceiling flat white on the ceiling and eggshell on the walls).
>>>
>> personally, I would use egg shell on the ceiling and satin on the walls.
>> Two reasons, good light reflection and the ceiling would be much
>> easier to keep clean. Flat ceiling paint is a bitch to clean anything off
>> of.
>>
>> basilisk
> Thank you. Your idea sounds good. Does anyone else think it makes
> sense to use eggshell on the ceiling because
> "it's easier to keep clean"? It's stipple, so I assume the only
> realistic way to clean it is with air pressure (or a vacuum--which probably
> won't happen much). Or does the fact that it's stipple, make this a
> moot point?
>
> Bill
My condolences :)
basilisk
Sonny wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 9:15:09 PM UTC-5, PHT wrote:
>> If it is a stain that continues to come through, then ....
> .... then find the source of what's making the stain and stop/fix/remove whatever is causing it. If the drywall has been stained (wet with something?) so much, that the drywall has weakened, then replace that section of drywall.
>
> The stain blocking aspect is shellac. Use whatever primer has the most shellac. I vote Zinsser Bulls Eye 123. If in doubt about the stained area(s), apply 2 coats on that/those spots.
>
> Sonny
The "stain" I am referring to is really just "soot". I'll try the Behr
primer, and if I am not satisfied with the result I'll put Zinsser on
top of it. This area is not even 20% of the ceiling. I just thought it
would be nice if it looked clean after I'm finished. The end of this
part of the project, at least, is in sight. The rule about a project
taking "at least twice as long as you expect it to" definitely holds for
me in this case. If I could start again from the beginning, I would be
a lot faster! : ) I think I took down my first taped joint twice.
Sometime after that I learned to wet the tape and mytaping results
improved considerably.
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
> aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago. Well,
> only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to prime and paintthe
> following:
>
> --painted (lightly) mudded ceilings (w/some light stains from welding left
> by preoccupant)
> --new (drywall) walls
> --existing painted wall has lots of fresh repairs
>
> Home Depot recommended (perhaps, of course) their Behr Premium Primer for
> everything. "Interior" primer and paint. I would use the version w/"stain
> blocking" on the ceiling. Workshop has the form of an attached 2-car
> garage in central Indiana.
>
> Any feelings here whether this product ought to be suitable (then I would
> use Behr ceiling flat white on the ceiling and eggshell on the walls).
>
> The salesman made made a statement that seemed to me to be a little silly:
> That "we recommend Behr paint go on top of Behr primer."
>
> I did not tell him I was trying to save money. In fact, when I was
> mentioning Kilz and Zinszer, he said "I can save you a few bucks" and he
> advised me as indicated.
>
> Was I given good advice? Anything you would you do different (and why?)
>
> Iam off to fine-tune my drywall work and driver a few nails or screws a
> little deeper (so I don't see the edges of their heads glistening at
> me...)
Whatever you use will work out fine. If it were me, I'd...
1. mud in the holes after punching in the nails
2. prime everything with Zinsser 1-2-3
3. paint the walls white - or at least a light color - with a glossy paint
(saw dust brushes off more easily).
dadiOH
Sonny wrote:
> With the first mud coating, before applying your tape, make sure you
> apply the mud deep into the seams, between the drywall panels. You
> don't want any air pockets between those panels, under your tape, or
> your tape may bubble up when wet or become loosened, later, after it
> dries. Fill all those voids, in the drywall, with mud, when taping....
After some practice, my "standard operating procedure" became to lightly
fill (deep) ALL of my drywall gaps with Durabond-90, and let it dry,
before I taped the seems--I created no more air pockets after that.
This also gave me a larger tolerance when cutting and fitting the
drywall. 1/4" gaps no longer a problem.
Bill
> Same with the wall-wall & wall-ceiling corners, fill those voids with
> mud (no air pockets), before taping. Sonny
basilisk wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:34:30 -0400, Bill wrote:
>
>> Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
>> aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago. Well,
>> only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to prime and
>> paintthe following:
>>
>> --painted (lightly) mudded ceilings (w/some light stains from welding
>> left by preoccupant)
>> --new (drywall) walls
>> --existing painted wall has lots of fresh repairs
>>
>> Home Depot recommended (perhaps, of course) their Behr Premium Primer
>> for everything. "Interior" primer and paint. I would use the version
>> w/"stain blocking" on the ceiling. Workshop has the form of an attached
>> 2-car garage in central Indiana.
>>
>> Any feelings here whether this product ought to be suitable (then I
>> would use Behr ceiling flat white on the ceiling and eggshell on the walls).
>>
> personally, I would use egg shell on the ceiling and satin on the walls.
> Two reasons, good light reflection and the ceiling would be much
> easier to keep clean. Flat ceiling paint is a bitch to clean anything off
> of.
>
> basilisk
Thank you. Your idea sounds good. Does anyone else think it makes
sense to use eggshell on the ceiling because
"it's easier to keep clean"? It's stipple, so I assume the only
realistic way to clean it is with air pressure (or a vacuum--which probably
won't happen much). Or does the fact that it's stipple, make this a
moot point?
Bill
Sonny wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 12, 2013 11:04:23 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
>> The rule about a project taking "at least twice as long as you expect it to" definitely holds for me in this case. If I could start again from the beginning, I would be a lot faster! : )
> My woodshop remodel is in its 5th year. I only do the remodeling when I feel like it, otherwise, I work on projects or sit & drink beer and look at what remodeling needs to be done, next, maybe.
I don't need any help learning how to drag the process out. I've
learned how to do that on my own! ; )
>
> Actually, I recently bought shingles, siding, etc, for finishing replacing the old roof and some ext. siding. I recently finished stripping and repainting a set of wood windows and installed them & the interior casings/facings.
>
> Even my upholstery shop is not completed. Still have some interior trim to install and someday I'll install new flooring.
>
>> I think I took down my first taped joint twice.
> Sometime after that I learned to wet the tape and mytaping results
> improved considerably.
>
> With the first mud coating, before applying your tape, make sure you apply the mud deep into the seams, between the drywall panels. You don't want any air pockets between those panels, under your tape, or your tape may bubble up when wet or become loosened, later, after it dries. Fill all those voids, in the drywall, with mud, when taping.... Same with the wall-wall & wall-ceiling corners, fill those voids with mud (no air pockets), before taping.
>
> Sonny
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote > Thank you. Your idea sounds good.
Does anyone else think it makes
> sense to use eggshell on the ceiling because
> "it's easier to keep clean"? It's stipple, so I assume the only realistic
> way to clean it is with air pressure (or a vacuum--which probably
> won't happen much). Or does the fact that it's stipple, make this a moot
> point?
Final coat on ceiling of zinz 123 stain blocker, and walls too. Reason,
like someone else mentioned, it is a bit glossy and dust and other stains
are easy to clean off. Yes, I used it on a popcorn ceiling, even, durable
for the past 20 years, and looks good.
Jim in NC
Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote > Thank you. Your idea sounds
> good. Does anyone else think it makes
>> sense to use eggshell on the ceiling because
>> "it's easier to keep clean"? It's stipple, so I assume the only
>> realistic way to clean it is with air pressure (or a vacuum--which
>> probably
>> won't happen much). Or does the fact that it's stipple, make this a
>> moot point?
>
> Final coat on ceiling of zinz 123 stain blocker, and walls too.
> Reason, like someone else mentioned, it is a bit glossy and dust and
> other stains are easy to clean off. Yes, I used it on a popcorn
> ceiling, even, durable for the past 20 years, and looks good.
>
> Jim in NC
Thanks Jim,
2 coats of Zins 123, huh? How does it look compared to paint? Not as
bright?
I'm considering using it as a primer at least since everyone raves about
it. Ihaven't
heard anyone rave about Behr primer yet! ; ) The salesman at HomeDepot
sure was determined that I should use Behr primer though--especially
with the Behr paint!
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Morgans wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote > Thank you. Your idea sounds
>> good. Does anyone else think it makes
>>> sense to use eggshell on the ceiling because
>>> "it's easier to keep clean"? It's stipple, so I assume the only
>>> realistic way to clean it is with air pressure (or a vacuum--which
>>> probably
>>> won't happen much). Or does the fact that it's stipple, make this a
>>> moot point?
>>
>> Final coat on ceiling of zinz 123 stain blocker, and walls too.
>> Reason, like someone else mentioned, it is a bit glossy and dust and
>> other stains are easy to clean off. Yes, I used it on a popcorn
>> ceiling, even, durable for the past 20 years, and looks good.
>>
>> Jim in NC
> Thanks Jim,
>
> 2 coats of Zins 123, huh? How does it look compared to paint? Not as
> bright?
> I'm considering using it as a primer at least since everyone raves
> about it. Ihaven't
> heard anyone rave about Behr primer yet! ; ) The salesman at
> HomeDepot sure was determined that I should use Behr primer
> though--especially with the Behr paint!
>
> Bill
I did a bit of reading, and the only concerns I saw about using Zins 123
as a "top coat" were about even-ness of coverage and flashing.
I'll apply it and see what I think.
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> 2 coats of Zins 123, huh? How does it look compared to paint? Not as
>> bright?
>> I'm considering using it as a primer at least since everyone raves about
>> it. Ihaven't
>> heard anyone rave about Behr primer yet! ; ) The salesman at HomeDepot
>> sure was determined that I should use Behr primer though--especially with
>> the Behr paint!
>>
>> Bill
>
> I did a bit of reading, and the only concerns I saw about using Zins 123
> as a "top coat" were about even-ness of coverage and flashing.
> I'll apply it and see what I think.
Even covering depends upon the applicator (you). I don't know what
"flashing" is so can't comment.
You asked how it looked compared to paint. It IS paint. All primers are.
Their primary difference is that they have a lot more calcium carbonate in
them which makes them somewhat softer. In the case of oil base primers,
they also have more oil, same effect.
Zinsser 1-2-3 is water base. It goes on easy, cleans up easy. It can be
tinted just like any other paint. (When I plan to topcoat it I usually have
it tinted lightly to aid in getting full coverage with the top coats). Out
of the can, it dries to a nice white with a slight sheen. IMO, it is fine as
a final paint for ceilings,
dadiOH
dadiOH wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> 2 coats of Zins 123, huh? How does it look compared to paint? Not as
>>> bright?
>>> I'm considering using it as a primer at least since everyone raves about
>>> it. Ihaven't
>>> heard anyone rave about Behr primer yet! ; ) The salesman at HomeDepot
>>> sure was determined that I should use Behr primer though--especially with
>>> the Behr paint!
>>>
>>> Bill
>> I did a bit of reading, and the only concerns I saw about using Zins 123
>> as a "top coat" were about even-ness of coverage and flashing.
>> I'll apply it and see what I think.
> Even covering depends upon the applicator (you). I don't know what
> "flashing" is so can't comment.
>
> You asked how it looked compared to paint. It IS paint. All primers are.
> Their primary difference is that they have a lot more calcium carbonate in
> them which makes them somewhat softer. In the case of oil base primers,
> they also have more oil, same effect.
>
> Zinsser 1-2-3 is water base. It goes on easy, cleans up easy. It can be
> tinted just like any other paint. (When I plan to topcoat it I usually have
> it tinted lightly to aid in getting full coverage with the top coats). Out
> of the can, it dries to a nice white with a slight sheen. IMO, it is fine as
> a final paint for ceilings,
>
> dadiOH
I WILL use it (Zinsser 123).
The "flashing" referred to such things as overlapping roller strokes
being more visible than they might be with a finish designed as a top coat.
I thought the primer was designed to dry harder--so that the latex paint
would have a strong surface to adhere to. I read a story about latex
paint, with no primer, pulling "popcorn" off of a ceiling.
Bill
>
>
Bill wrote:
> Some of you may remember filling the mind of a then young-minded
> aspiring-workshop builder with grandiose ideals a few years ago.
> Well, only a few short years later, I'm practically ready to...
Regarding "electrical shims (i.e. recepatacle shims)". How far does
the box need to be below the drywall surface before these are necessary
(1/16" ?)
Actually, in this case I am thinking that in that case the device screws
may pull the plastic box to the surface.
I know that the the boxes are not allowed to be more than 1/4" deep--and
my results are much better than that.
I have one box which is "proud" (3/32"), and I am going to deal with it
presently!
Cheers,
Bill
Bill wrote:
>
> Regarding "electrical shims (i.e. recepatacle shims)". How far does
> the box need to be below the drywall surface before these are
> necessary (1/16" ?)
I would not bother at 1/16th Bill, assuming your drywall cuts around the box
are nice and snug. The ears on your wiring device (outlet, switch) will
carry on the drywall and everything will be fine. Just snug your mounting
screws for the device until the device is held firmly in place and do not
try to over torque them. Then simply screw on your cover plates.
> Actually, in this case I am thinking that in that case the device
> screws may pull the plastic box to the surface.
If the box is properly mounted, the device screws will not pull it into
place unless you're talking about a gang box that is creeping back along its
length as the distance from the stud increases. In that case yes, the ears
on the device could well pull the box back to proper place.
>
> I know that the the boxes are not allowed to be more than 1/4"
> deep--and my results are much better than that.
>
> I have one box which is "proud" (3/32"), and I am going to deal with
> it presently!
>
Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man, think!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Regarding "electrical shims (i.e. recepatacle shims)". How far does
>> the box need to be below the drywall surface before these are
>> necessary (1/16" ?)
> I would not bother at 1/16th Bill, assuming your drywall cuts around the box
> are nice and snug.
Yes, they are "nice and snug" because most of the gaps, big or small,
are full of Durabond-90!
Based in on my experience, I learned to cut them a little big! : )
Thank you for your comments about the shims!
Bill
>> I know that the the boxes are not allowed to be more than 1/4"
>> deep--and my results are much better than that.
>>
>> I have one box which is "proud" (3/32"), and I am going to deal with
>> it presently!
>>
> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man, think!
>
I thought of using a hacksaw, but didn't get too excited. What did you
have in mind? I taped on some Durabond 90,
and will put some EZ-Sand on top of that tomorrow.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
> I know that the the boxes are not allowed to be more than 1/4"
> deep--and my results are much better than that.
>
> I have one box which is "proud" (3/32"), and I am going to deal with
> it presently!
>
> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man, think!
>
Belt sander?
What projects have you got going, Mike?
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> I have one box which is "proud" (3/32"), and I am going to deal with
>>> it presently!
>>>
>> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man, think!
>>
> I thought of using a hacksaw, but didn't get too excited. What did
> you have in mind? I taped on some Durabond 90,
> and will put some EZ-Sand on top of that tomorrow.
Oh heck Bill - new tool moments are all in the imagination of the needer.
Or the wanter. When you have a new tool moment, you have the most important
thing - a reason to go buy a new tool!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>> I know that the the boxes are not allowed to be more than 1/4"
>> deep--and my results are much better than that.
>>
>> I have one box which is "proud" (3/32"), and I am going to deal with
>> it presently!
>>
>> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man, think!
>>
> Belt sander?
>
Maybe - if that's what you have been wanting. Might be kinda hard to
justify to the wife, a new table saw for this particular need, so keep it in
the realm of reason, but you get the idea...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> On 6/16/2013 7:19 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>
>>>> Stop right there! This is a new tool moment Bill. Think man,
>>>> think!
>>> Belt sander?
>>>
>>
>> Maybe - if that's what you have been wanting. Might be kinda hard to
>> justify to the wife, a new table saw for this particular need, so
>> keep it in the realm of reason, but you get the idea...
>
>
> Real men don't use the word "need" to justify NTAS (new tool
> acquisition syndrome). They are confident enough to just say they
> "want" a...
> Woe unto him who uses the word "need" at our Saturday morning
> breakfast club. Good way to get booed right out of the restaurant.
> <g>
Regretably, this is true and I must confess I fall short on this part. I am
inspired though, by your post, and I'm printing it out to hang on the wall
as motivation.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>
> You obviously suffered from a temporary lapse and appear appropriately
> contrite. Go out and buy something nice for the shop and you will be
> forgiven (except by SWMBO) <g>
>
All right - I can take good advice...
> 'Twas a great father's day. Got something that I do not need but
> surely want. Younger daughter and her hubby are expecting their
> first, a boy, in December. Two granddaughters already... finally
> somebody to pass my tools along to<g>
Good thing! I've got three now (two granddaughters, one grandson). They
are great things to have. Similar things going on here - marrying off a
daughter on Saturday (my birthday), and the last daughter just got engaged
last week. More of those little things in our future. Each one of those
little things is a good cause for a commemorative tool purchase.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> On 6/16/2013 7:16 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>
>>> 'Twas a great father's day. Got something that I do not need but
>>> surely want. Younger daughter and her hubby are expecting their
>>> first, a boy, in December. Two granddaughters already... finally
>>> somebody to pass my tools along to<g>
>>
>> Good thing! I've got three now (two granddaughters, one grandson). They
>> are great things to have. Similar things going on here -
>> marrying off a daughter on Saturday (my birthday), and the last
>> daughter just got engaged last week. More of those little things in
>> our future. Each one of those little things is a good cause for a
>> commemorative tool purchase.
>
> Why didn't I think of that? A new tool commemorating the impending
> birth? Oh, yeah, forgot, have bought a couple of new guns in the past
> month. Certainly didn't n**d but did lust after both of them.<g>
Ahhhhh... now you're getting close to my heart. The one rule in my
household is that suitors asking for my daughters must provide me with gifts
of cash and guns. So far that hasn't really worked out all that well, but
the latest one seems to understand these things. We're going to look at
guns soon...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 6/17/2013 11:14 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> jo4hn wrote:
>
>> mahalo,
>
>
> Mahalo? Eh, brah, wheah you stay?
>
>
My favorite island was Kauai. Favorite joint: the Oar House. Favorite
hotel: Coco Palms. Both these places took it in the shorts from the
hurricane Iniki in 1992. Oar House never recovered. Coco Palms is
moribund and may not be rebuilt (see
http://www.bizjournals.com/pacific/news/2013/04/30/kauais-coco-palms-unlikely-to-ever.html?page=all).
Sigh. Otherwise I have never lived there full time (Maggy lived on the
big island for a few years). I am rather captivated by the language
however.
For you haoles, mahalo means thank you, goodbye, and may you be always
blessed with clean linens.
mahalo,
jo4hn
p.s. I may have exaggerated the meaning of mahalo.