A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he gets
snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said it
doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought maybe
someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more expensive )
planer.
Isnt there a handle on the right hand side? This is the cutter head lock.
Tighten it up before turning on the power (after you have done the height
setup). If there isnt one, adjust the height of the infeed and/or out
feed tables
.
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>expensive ) planer.
>
LP wrote:
> Some things I've come to believe over the years about snipe:
snip
> machine. Neither does the height/length of the in/outfeed tables.
> 3. The snipe distance is always equal to the distance from the center
> of the cutter head to the center of the (first) outfeed roller, or
> perhaps a bit beyond.
You can also get snipe in the middle of a board - if, for any
reason, the feed rate changes. - say because you've got hard
rubber feed rollers that are "glazed". Can also happen on
first pass of rough sawn board - with thinner end of tape
going in first.
> 4. The theory is that as the wood contacts the knives, the knives
> lift it. This continues until the wood passes under the outfeed
> roller.
And the solution to "going in" and "coming out" snipe is to
flift the board slightly 'til it contacts the cutter on the
way in and on the outfeed side, lift the board slightly
as gets close to leaving the cutter head.
or
put a sacrificial piece of wood on either side of your
precious wood and have them extend in front of the
good stuff.
For thinner stock planed on a "sled", put stops front
and back such that the stock is flexed up slightly.
just more to think about
charliel b
Longer board than outfeed table? I had the same problem until I supported
the boards full length.
"Tom Woodman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Isnt there a handle on the right hand side? This is the cutter head
> lock. Tighten it up before turning on the power (after you have done the
> height setup). If there isnt one, adjust the height of the infeed
> and/or out feed tables
>
>
> .
> "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>>expensive ) planer.
>>
>
>
Thanks for all the advice and help. Will pass it along and keep it for
myself, also.
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> LP <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Some things I've come to believe over the years about snipe:
>>
>>1. There isn't a planer made that won't snipe.
> Probably, but good technique with a good machine will give you less.
>>2. The head lock makes no difference, unless its a really shitty
>>machine.
> Probably true, but doesn't that include most lunch-box planers?
>> Neither does the height/length of the in/outfeed tables.
> Interesting. That runs counter to my experience.
>>3. The snipe distance is always equal to the distance from the center
>>of the cutter head to the center of the (first) outfeed roller, or
>>perhaps a bit beyond.
> I seldom get much snipe on the lead end of the board--for me it is
> usually the back end, when the wood comes free of the infeed roller.
>>4. The theory is that as the wood contacts the knives, the knives
>>lift it. This continues until the wood passes under the outfeed
>>roller.
> Again, sounds like you are getting snipe on the front end.
> <snip>
>>6. If you cut a piece to final length and then plane it, murphy's law
>>will get you every time.
>>7. Cutting off the snipe as you cut your pieces to final length is
>>just a cost of doing business. In most cases it only amounts to
>>pennies and isnt worth the headache of trying to avoid snipe.
> Good advice.
>
> --
> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked
> infrequently.
LP <[email protected]> wrote:
>Some things I've come to believe over the years about snipe:
>
>1. There isn't a planer made that won't snipe.
Probably, but good technique with a good machine will give you less.
>2. The head lock makes no difference, unless its a really shitty
>machine.
Probably true, but doesn't that include most lunch-box planers?
> Neither does the height/length of the in/outfeed tables.
Interesting. That runs counter to my experience.
>3. The snipe distance is always equal to the distance from the center
>of the cutter head to the center of the (first) outfeed roller, or
>perhaps a bit beyond.
I seldom get much snipe on the lead end of the board--for me it is
usually the back end, when the wood comes free of the infeed roller.
>4. The theory is that as the wood contacts the knives, the knives
>lift it. This continues until the wood passes under the outfeed
>roller.
Again, sounds like you are getting snipe on the front end.
<snip>
>6. If you cut a piece to final length and then plane it, murphy's law
>will get you every time.
>7. Cutting off the snipe as you cut your pieces to final length is
>just a cost of doing business. In most cases it only amounts to
>pennies and isnt worth the headache of trying to avoid snipe.
Good advice.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Only handle was for height adjustment.
Thanks, Leon, I'll print this and give it to him. I watched him plane a
board and what you say makes sense. The cutter head moved up.
"Tom Woodman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Isnt there a handle on the right hand side? This is the cutter head
> lock. Tighten it up before turning on the power (after you have done the
> height setup). If there isnt one, adjust the height of the infeed
> and/or out feed tables
>
>
> .
> "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>>expensive ) planer.
>>
>
>
Jimmy,
I feed my wood at an angle if it's not to wide. That seems to cut down on
the snipe.
Ted
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>expensive ) planer.
>
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 13:54:58 -0600, "Lee" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Longer board than outfeed table? I had the same problem until I supported
>the boards full length.
>"Tom Woodman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Isnt there a handle on the right hand side? This is the cutter head
>> lock. Tighten it up before turning on the power (after you have done the
>> height setup). If there isnt one, adjust the height of the infeed
>> and/or out feed tables
>>
>>
>> .
>> "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>>>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>>>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>>>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>>>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>>>expensive ) planer.
Some things I've come to believe over the years about snipe:
1. There isn't a planer made that won't snipe.
2. The head lock makes no difference, unless its a really shitty
machine. Neither does the height/length of the in/outfeed tables.
3. The snipe distance is always equal to the distance from the center
of the cutter head to the center of the (first) outfeed roller, or
perhaps a bit beyond.
4. The theory is that as the wood contacts the knives, the knives
lift it. This continues until the wood passes under the outfeed
roller.
5. In any given stack of boards being planed, the depth of snipe will
vary, sometimes from zero to perhaps 1/32".
I think this has to do with grain structure and rigidity of the
individual boards.
6. If you cut a piece to final length and then plane it, murphy's law
will get you every time.
7. Cutting off the snipe as you cut your pieces to final length is
just a cost of doing business. In most cases it only amounts to
pennies and isnt worth the headache of trying to avoid snipe.
Fire When Ready
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 06:03:54 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
> You can also get snipe in the middle of a board - if, for any
> reason, the feed rate changes. - say because you've got hard
> rubber feed rollers that are "glazed".
Is that truly snipe, or burn marks from the rollers? For snipe to be
cut in the center of a board, the cutter head has to move down, or the
board has to move up. Otherwise, once the wood is cut, the blades
can't reach it.
Very long and heavy boards _can_ flex if they are dropped and force
the wood in the center of a lunchbox planer up into the knives. simple
roller stands and operator care can easily prevent center snipe.
Am I missing something else?
> Can also happen on
> first pass of rough sawn board - with thinner end of tape
> going in first.
But who cares at that point?
Barry
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>>expensive ) planer.
>>
>
> When initially feeding the work into the planer lift the trailing end
> 1-2". As the wood is completing its path through the planer lift the
> leading end 1-2".
>
What Leon said. It's amazingly effective. Also, make your final pass a light
one. (Less pressure on the feed rollers = less likelihood of the carriage to
rack when the infeed roller is suddenly hanging in space.)
Bruce
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A friend bought a Delta Shopmaster planer model TP305
>(http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5853 ) and it seems he
>gets snipe at each end of the board. Is there a way to avoid this? He said
>it doesn't have a cutter head lock. I don't have a planer so I thought
>maybe someone here had a suggestion, other than buy a better ( more
>expensive ) planer.
>
When initially feeding the work into the planer lift the trailing end 1-2".
As the wood is completing its path through the planer lift the leading end
1-2".