My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
bad idea for some reason?
Thanks,
S.
Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 30, 10:17 pm, "samson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
>> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
>> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
>> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
>> bad idea for some reason?
>>
> Kerosene heaters do gobble up the oxygen, but if your building is
> really leaky, that should be okay...but the cost and the smell...that
> smell...man.... it gets into everything.
Brings back good memories of the barn during the winter when I was growing
up. It's not all that bad.
--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
"samson" wrote:
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater.
I used one in the winter back when they were very popular and kerosene was
low cost, neither of which exist today.
As an alternate, I'd take a look at propane fired radient heaters.
Much better deal today.
Lew
If you have problems with the smell, your heater is out of wack. I use a
kerosene heater with no problems.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Nov 30, 10:17 pm, "samson" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> > dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> > looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> > a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> > kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> > work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> > bad idea for some reason?
> >
> Kerosene heaters do gobble up the oxygen, but if your building is
> really leaky, that should be okay...but the cost and the smell...that
> smell...man.... it gets into everything.
>
On Nov 30, 10:17 pm, "samson" <[email protected]> wrote:
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
Kerosene heaters do gobble up the oxygen, but if your building is
really leaky, that should be okay...but the cost and the smell...that
smell...man.... it gets into everything.
"mapdude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have heard that Kerosene heaters introduce a lot of humidity to the air,
>but I could be wrong.
Water vapor is a byproduct of combustion - kerosene or propane.
>
> I use a small propane heater that uses 2 cylinders like goes with a camp
> stove. Got it clearance last spring for about $25. Sucker gets hot and
> will run for about 12 hours on high. I can usually get about a full
> weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real cold.
>
Damn - I envy you. Here in central NY that wouldn't even warm the kindling
for the fire.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:17:22 -0600, "samson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
>a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
>kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
>work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
>bad idea for some reason?
I've used a 23,000 BTU round model in my smoke detector equipped
basement and garage for 15 years.
- I turn it off and let it cool (or remove it) before using volatile
stuff.
- I take it out of the basement (walk-out, no stairs) to start it and
turn it off. This keeps the smell out of the house. I don't bother
in the garage.
- Every 2-3 tanks, I "dry burn" it to clean the wick.
- I use my Jet AFS-1000B to even the heat distribution
- I never leave it unattended
Works great for me. My wife is SUPER sensitive to odors, and she
doesn't complain. <G>
"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
>
I use a propane heater connected to a 'barbecue grill' sized propane tank.
You need to buy an extension hose to connect it (Home Depot). You can see a
picture of mine in action in my Woodshop-a-garage here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/walnut_footbd.jpg
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
I have heard that Kerosene heaters introduce a lot of humidity to the
air, but I could be wrong.
I use a small propane heater that uses 2 cylinders like goes with a camp
stove. Got it clearance last spring for about $25. Sucker gets hot and
will run for about 12 hours on high. I can usually get about a full
weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real cold.
samson wrote:
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
>
>
"mapdude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>. I can usually get about a full weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real
>cold.
How cold is real cold? I use a 30,000 Btu heater and it is not enough once
it gets down to 20.
"Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> mapdude wrote:
>> I have heard that Kerosene heaters introduce a lot of humidity to the
>> air, but I could be wrong.
>>
>> I use a small propane heater that uses 2 cylinders like goes with a camp
>> stove. Got it clearance last spring for about $25. Sucker gets hot and
>> will run for about 12 hours on high. I can usually get about a full
>> weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real cold.
>>
>>
>> samson wrote:
>>> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>>> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>>> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
>>> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
>>> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
>>> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
>>> bad idea for some reason?
>
> I use kerosene all winter. I don't know if I'm doing the right thing or
> not. I'm noticing a bit more rust on my tools than normal, but I've used
> kerosene in the past without that problem.
>
> Odor's not really a problem beyond startup, assuming the wick is adjusted
> properly and the burner is operating right.
>
> The heat is tremendous. mapdude may get as much or more heat from propane,
> but kerosene is what I have so I use that.
>
The moisture has more to do with you being there than the heater. You're
putting a lot into the warming air which is now capable of holding it, where
your moisture precipitated when it was cold and saturated.
Rust comes from the time when the air has lots of moisture while it warms,
and the metal is still cold. Condensation.
I have used a Kerosene heater for years with no problem. In our area, and
even with elevated Kerosene prices, it is much cheaper to use than propane.
I have some rules.
1) I work in a three car garage and all vehicles are OUT.
2) No gasoline cans in the garage
3) The heater is well away from woodworking and the Kero can
4) Sweep up often in attempt to keep dust down; and clean the exterior of
the heater from time to time.
5) It gets turned off when any finishing starts (using oil based finishes,
solvents, etc, )
I also have a 1,500 watt cube heater that I run with the Kero heater. On
mildly cold days I can often take the edge off with the Kerosene heater, and
then turn it off and the cube will sustain the temperature for a while. I
also keep the cube going when I'm doing finishing.
It does stink a little when started and after shutoff. No problems
otherwise.
Main thing - use your head.
RonB
"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "samson" wrote:
>
>> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>> looking at a kerosene heater.
>
> I used one in the winter back when they were very popular and kerosene was
> low cost, neither of which exist today.
>
> As an alternate, I'd take a look at propane fired radient heaters.
I've got one of those double-headed radiant propane rigs what bolts to the
top of a propane cylinder. Does very well in my 20X20 garage. Be warned
that touching the back of one of those burners will instantly melt your skin
(and I have the scar to prove it).
--
NuWave Dave in Houston
As long as we are in the chemistry department, may as well mention the
oxides of nitrogen that are emitted into the workspace with any unvented
heater. Better to install a modern vented propane heater and use a big tank
to take advantage of bulk delivery savings. Next step is to find a way to
eliminate the draft around the garage doors.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "samson" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4750d246$0$24307
> [email protected]:
>
>> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
>> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
>> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
>> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
>> bad idea for some reason?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> S.
>>
> Adding to the confusion ...
>
> Propane is a hydrocarbon with 3 carbon atoms in a row, surounded by
> hydrogens, sort of like:
>
> H H H
> | | |
> H-C-C-C-H
> | | |
> H H H
>
> When it burns, all the H's make water, the C's give CO2, carbon dioxide,
> (hopefully not CO, carbon monoxide).
>
> Longer hydrocarbons have relatively fewer hydrogens, so would yield less
> water, more CO2.
>
> But kerosene smels, and propane is probably easier to get ...
> --
> Best regards
> Han
> email address is invalid
"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4750d246$0$24307
[email protected]:
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
>
Adding to the confusion ...
Propane is a hydrocarbon with 3 carbon atoms in a row, surounded by
hydrogens, sort of like:
H H H
| | |
H-C-C-C-H
| | |
H H H
When it burns, all the H's make water, the C's give CO2, carbon dioxide,
(hopefully not CO, carbon monoxide).
Longer hydrocarbons have relatively fewer hydrogens, so would yield less
water, more CO2.
But kerosene smels, and propane is probably easier to get ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Alright I am in ancient times, I use a coal/wood burning furnace, courtesy
of a military auction, paid $10 for the pallet of items. The thing
sometimes gets cherry hot but man it takes the cold out of the air.
Some of the newer kerosene heaters can use multi-fuels, like biodiesel,
diesel, kerosene, and there are a few others. I use a 40,000 one at my
business and it works great. You will get water on your tools, due to
rapidly heating up the air it will condense the water in the air onto all
your surfaces. A quick an easy fix is to wipe all your tools down with old
motor oil so the water does not attack as fast. Also when your air in your
space begins to start cooling again, the moisture will again form on
surfaces.
Jon
"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
>
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:07:17 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Kerosene heaters do gobble up the oxygen, but if your building is
>really leaky, that should be okay...but the cost and the smell...that
>smell...man.... it gets into everything.
I do know that smell. <G>
However, if you start and shut it down outside, and burn the wick dry
on a regular basis (also outside), it really makes a huge difference.
Before I did this, my wife would come home from school and complain.
Now, she only "knows it's on".
It is getting expensive, though! I paid $4.25/ga., at a gas station
in Portland, CT. last Saturday, because the fuel oil dealer that
normally charges ~ $3.50 was sold out..
FWIW, the newer stuff seems to burn even cleaner and is labeled on the
pump as "low-sulfur" kero. Since it's higher priced than diesel,
there's been no dye in the last couple of fills I bought.
When I come up for a furnace / boiler replacement in the next 5-10
years, I plan on adding capacity for an extra, separately
controllable, hydronic loop to the system to heat the shop.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you have problems with the smell, your heater is out of wack. I use a
> kerosene heater with no problems.
>
Not necessarily - are people using K1 or K2?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
samson wrote:
> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
> bad idea for some reason?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
>
>
Shouldn't be a problem. I use them all the time in areas
where I am working. The only drawback to kerosene is the
price. I use about 10-15 gallons a week when it gets cold and
it is running about 5 bucks a gallon if you buy in bulk. More
if you get the ripoff 5 gallon cans at home depot. I think
they are charging about 9 dollars a gallon for it.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
Han wrote:
> "samson" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4750d246$0$24307
> [email protected]:
>
>> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
>> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
>> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
>> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
>> bad idea for some reason?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> S.
>>
> Adding to the confusion ...
>
> Propane is a hydrocarbon with 3 carbon atoms in a row, surounded by
> hydrogens, sort of like:
>
> H H H
> | | |
> H-C-C-C-H
> | | |
> H H H
>
> When it burns, all the H's make water, the C's give CO2, carbon
> dioxide, (hopefully not CO, carbon monoxide).
>
> Longer hydrocarbons have relatively fewer hydrogens, so would yield
> less water, more CO2.
>
> But kerosene smels, and propane is probably easier to get ...
Used to be that just about every gas station had a kerosene pump.
Haven't seen one in years--today I'm going to see if I can find one
and check prices--should be cheaper than diesel because no highway
tax. The 7 bucks a gallon that Home Despot charges is ludicrous.
If we ever go to a hydrogen economy rust is going to be one of the
unintended consequences I suspect.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
mapdude wrote:
> I have heard that Kerosene heaters introduce a lot of humidity to the
> air, but I could be wrong.
>
> I use a small propane heater that uses 2 cylinders like goes with a camp
> stove. Got it clearance last spring for about $25. Sucker gets hot and
> will run for about 12 hours on high. I can usually get about a full
> weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real cold.
>
>
> samson wrote:
>> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
>> dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm
>> looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is
>> a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this
>> kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to
>> work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or
>> bad idea for some reason?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> S.
>>
I use kerosene all winter. I don't know
if I'm doing the right thing or not. I'm
noticing a bit more rust on my tools
than normal, but I've used kerosene in
the past without that problem.
Odor's not really a problem beyond
startup, assuming the wick is adjusted
properly and the burner is operating right.
The heat is tremendous. mapdude may get
as much or more heat from propane, but
kerosene is what I have so I use that.
Tanus
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 21:54:38 -0600, mapdude <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have heard that Kerosene heaters introduce a lot of humidity to the
>air, but I could be wrong.
they do and more smell propane is better.
Here in Memphis, it rarely every gets down below 20 or so. usually only
about 20 days below freezing each winter.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "mapdude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> . I can usually get about a full weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real
>> cold.
>
>
> How cold is real cold? I use a 30,000 Btu heater and it is not enough once
> it gets down to 20.
>
>