Hello,
Does anybody have experience with using Penetrol, made by Flood, on
their table saw, jointer, ect. to prevent rust? From what I can tell,
it is marketed under three product names, but they all seem the same.
Supposedly available at Home Depot and Ace Hardware.
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol_rust.htm
http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Exterior/Marine/Penetrol+Marine.htm
http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Interior/PaintAdditives/Penetrol+Interior+Prod+Page.htm
I read else where that it works very well and also keeps surfaces
smooth and some what slippery.
"Roy Fek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> Does anybody have experience with using Penetrol, made by Flood, on
> their table saw, jointer, ect. to prevent rust? From what I can tell,
> it is marketed under three product names, but they all seem the same.
> Supposedly available at Home Depot and Ace Hardware.
>
> http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol_rust.htm
>
> http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Exterior/Marine/Penetrol+Marine.htm
>
> http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Interior/PaintAdditives/Penetrol+Interior+Prod+Page.htm
>
>
> I read else where that it works very well and also keeps surfaces
> smooth and some what slippery.
This is an interesting thread, apparently completely different from anything
I know. :-)
In a previous life, I owned and maintained several boats (only sailing
craft). I had a 34' sloop that needed the topsides painted. It was a
fiberglass boat and I couldn't afford a urethane paint job by a yard. I
decided to paint the topsides (the hull above the waterline, not the decks)
using a Woolsey alkyd enamel. Its sheen was superior to gel coat. I check
with an old boat painter to find out how they achieved brushed on paint jobs
with no brush marks. I was told to add a brushing agent to allow the paint
to level before it started to dry.
The brushing agent was Penetrol. Painting with vertical brush strokes and
using penetrol, a brush stroke free paint job was achieved.
I later used it while building houses when painting interior wood trim. We
used oil based enamel and I used the penetrol.
Now you fellows are talking about using it to prevent rust. I use Johnson
Wax (Lowe's sells it) to keep my tools from rusting. Not only are the cast
iron surfaces clean, the wood slides across them with ease. I typically wax
any tool I used over the week end late on Sunday.
OBTW, the penetrol I am familiar with is not paint and will not act as
paint. It is an additive to be put in paint. Apparently, Flood has developed
new products and used the name penetrol.
Roy Fek wrote:
[snip]
> I read else where that it works very well and also keeps surfaces
> smooth and some what slippery.
Noooo... if you want to protect a metal object from the elements,
Penetrol will behave like paint.
In that regard it works well. It is not slippery by no stretch of the
imagination, so on a table-saw top, it would be a bad choice.
It is basically triple distilled linseed oil, give or take. It behaves
very much like linseed oil. (Careful with spontaneous combustion when
discarding Penetrol-soaked rags.)
I just took a peek at a can of Penetrol, and the small spilled droplets
are hard. A fingernail won't budge them.
The guys here like Johnsson Paste wax. (Trewax paste wax is also
guaranteed silicon free.)
Robatoy wrote:
> Roy Fek wrote:
> [snip]
> > I read else where that it works very well and also keeps surfaces
> > smooth and some what slippery.
>
> Noooo... if you want to protect a metal object from the elements,
> Penetrol will behave like paint.
> In that regard it works well. It is not slippery by no stretch of the
> imagination, so on a table-saw top, it would be a bad choice.
> It is basically triple distilled linseed oil, give or take.
I didn't see that in any of the MSDSs.
> It behaves
> very much like linseed oil. (Careful with spontaneous combustion when
> discarding Penetrol-soaked rags.)
Suspected it was, though, on that basis when I was looking at a can
at the store 20 minutes ago. Decided to save my $8.95 and improve
my brush technique. Thought it might be useful for cutting the alkyd
enamel I'm putting on a bookcase, where linseed would make the
paint too soft.
> I just took a peek at a can of Penetrol, and the small spilled droplets
> are hard. A fingernail won't budge them.
>
> The guys here like Johnsson Paste wax. (Trewax paste wax is also
> guaranteed silicon free.)
Father Haskell wrote:
[snipped for brevity]
> Thought it might be useful for cutting the alkyd
> enamel I'm putting on a bookcase, where linseed would make the
> paint too soft.
It works like a dream in giving alkyds a bit of 'leg'. Just a little
dab will do ya.
I wouldn't brush an alkyd without a bit of it. It lays down so
nicely... also nothing but a Purdy brush will do.
Penetrol works nicely as a wood finish, straight out of the
can...especially for out-door use.
Lowell Holmes wrote:
[snipped for brevity]
> OBTW, the penetrol I am familiar with is not paint and will not act as
> paint. It is an additive to be put in paint. Apparently, Flood has developed
> new products and used the name penetrol.
Same stuff. Penetrol. It isn't paint, it's an additive. It dries on its
own though.
Lowell Holmes wrote:
> The brushing agent was Penetrol. Painting with vertical brush strokes and
> using penetrol, a brush stroke free paint job was achieved.
What do you mean by vertical strokes? Across grain? The paint
(with 25% Penetrol) seems to lay smoother if I tip it off wrong way,
for some odd reason.
"Roy Fek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> Does anybody have experience with using Penetrol, made by Flood, on
> their table saw, jointer, ect. to prevent rust? From what I can tell,
> it is marketed under three product names, but they all seem the same.
> Supposedly available at Home Depot and Ace Hardware.
>
> http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol_rust.htm
>
> http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Exterior/Marine/Penetrol+Marine.htm
>
> http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Interior/PaintAdditives/Penetrol+Interior+Prod+Page.htm
>
>
> I read else where that it works very well and also keeps surfaces
> smooth and some what slippery.
>
Just adding a fly to the Penetrol here. It was recommended to me on a WW
forum that Penetrol alone makes a good, natural finish for outdoor
furniture. I haven't tried it and will proably go with one of Cabot's
natural oil finishes on my cherry swing (in progress).
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 13:56:39 -0500, "C & E" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I haven't tried it and will proably go with one of Cabot's
>natural oil finishes on my cherry swing (in progress).
Olympic Maximum is also a fantastic outdoor oil finish. I've been
extremely pleased with it's defense of New England weather. Maximum
is good enough that I don't even bother to bring the stuff in for the
winter. I first learned of it from a local outdoor furniture
manufacturer:
<http://www.baldwinfurniture.com/>
<http://www.baldwinpergolas.com/>
It's all he uses on his unpainted furniture and pergolas that he's
sold for years and years.
On 13 Jan 2007 14:27:22 -0800, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I just took a peek at a can of Penetrol, and the small spilled droplets
>are hard. A fingernail won't budge them.
Does Penetrol have a bunch of linseed oil in it?
Ron Magen wrote:
> Lew -
>
> I spoke to the Flood Tech people - re: the great price difference
between
> the 'home' and 'Marine' versions. The only difference is the 'label
on the
> can'.
<snip>
Having personally been to the Flood Company farm in Hudson, Ohio, and
talked to them, doesn't surprise me.
My comment was directed specifically aimed at Deks Olje, not Penetrol.
Lew
Robatoy wrote:
> Roy Fek wrote:
> [snip]
>> I read else where that it works very well and also keeps surfaces
>> smooth and some what slippery.
>
> Noooo... if you want to protect a metal object from the elements,
> Penetrol will behave like paint.
> In that regard it works well.
Evidently Pentrol is a good Flood product for the industrial market.
The products they offer for the marine market SUCKS.
Using nothing at all creates less follow up work.
Lew
On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 23:25:15 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Didn't read the post, did you?
What post?
My news service dropped many posts this week, so I have many
incomplete threads. It was up and down for days.
If I read it, would I have asked? <G>
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 00:12:01 GMT, B A R R Y <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>If I read it, would I have asked? <G>
Sorry! Multi-tasking! <G>
I missed the "triple-distilled"...
Didn't read the post, did you?
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 13 Jan 2007 14:27:22 -0800, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >I just took a peek at a can of Penetrol, and the small spilled droplets
> >are hard. A fingernail won't budge them.
>
> Does Penetrol have a bunch of linseed oil in it?
Lew -
I spoke to the Flood Tech people - re: the great price difference between
the 'home' and 'Marine' versions. The only difference is the 'label on the
can'.
I have a can of the stuff - from the local 'Home Center'. While I've read
comments about it's use on Gelcoat {and the resultant horror stories}, I've
never heard about it's 'long-term rust preventative' properties.
A cautionary note about their 'water-based' version . . . DO NOT use it with
GLOSS paints. For some reason it 'flattens' the gloss to a very finely
'pebbled Satin' appearance. Drove me absolutely nuts - till I finally
figured it out !!
Regards,
Ron
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
SNIP
>
> Evidently Pentrol is a good Flood product for the industrial market.
>
> The products they offer for the marine market SUCKS.
>
> Using nothing at all creates less follow up work.
>
> Lew