I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
degree cuts.
Thanks,
Jim
I thought about that, and I'll probably do something along that line.
But I stll need a solution for atarting out with a long board (8').
For example, I want to make a jewelry box for my wife, it is big, 33" x
20" x 15". So, I have on order a piece of 13/16" x 15" x 8' curly
maple. I want the case to have the grain wrap around it, so I need to
start with the full length board. It's the first cuts I'm concerned
about.
-Jim
Well, I didn't see miter joints, that was my own thing, with splines.
But after all of this discussion, and what Swingman said, I really
think I'm gonna go Dovetail. Miter is just what I "know". I have
never done dovetail, so the challenge would be good. I will do them by
hand as I don't have, and can't afford, a jig. So, all that being
said, can anybody offer up a good instructional site so I can get
practicing? Tips on drawer making is also welcome. Man, this stuff
gets addictive....
-Jim
>
>Make a ramp at 45 and clamp your stock to it. Leave your blade at 090.
>
That is exactly the kind of jig I made... although mine would not
handle a 15 inch wide cross cut....
Glued a piece of sand paper on the surface of the ramp which allows
accurate cross cuts up to about 8 inches without a clamp on my sled..
Bob G..
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
> I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
> jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
> my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
> together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
> recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
> wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
> degree cuts.
>
Make a ramp at 45 and clamp your stock to it. Leave your blade at 090.
"jtpr" wrote in message
> I thought about that, and I'll probably do something along that line.
> But I stll need a solution for atarting out with a long board (8').
> For example, I want to make a jewelry box for my wife, it is big, 33" x
> 20" x 15". So, I have on order a piece of 13/16" x 15" x 8' curly
> maple. I want the case to have the grain wrap around it, so I need to
> start with the full length board. It's the first cuts I'm concerned
> about.
You may want to seriously consider a 9' board.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
jtpr wrote:
> I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
> I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
> jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
> my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
> together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
> recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
> wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
> degree cuts.
Once again, Fred Bingham's, Practical Yacht Joinery covers the subject.
(Uses a factory corner from a sheet of 3/4" plywood)
Lew
"jtpr" wrote in message
> This is what I'm attempting to reproduce:
>
> http://westcreekstudio.com/pages/freestanding_chest.html
FWIW, that fairly screams "DOVETAIL" for the casework joinery!!
A mitered corner would be one of my last choices, but is doable with splines
and would look quite nice. I am wondering why you are reluctant to cut the
45 degree miters on your table saw?. This is basically why they "tilt". ;)
BTW, now that we can see the idea, 8' would probably be sufficient for the
material for the top and two sides. When you said "box", that usually means
four sides, which, given your posted dimensions, added up to more than 96",
IIRC ... thus the recommendation to go at least 9'. ;)
Good luck ... it will be a gorgeous project.
--
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Last update: 12/13/05
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
> I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
> jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
> my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
> together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
> recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
> wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
> degree cuts.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
How about making a wooden version of the sled that David Marks uses?
(another) Jim
With 15" boards it is hard to get an accurate miter on the tablesaw. Very
easy on a good size router table with a 45 degree bit. The sled would be
good for narrower boards but the wide ones would be a lot easier on the
router table.
Tim
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
> I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
> jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
> my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
> together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
> recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
> wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
> degree cuts.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
I made a fairly large, heavy duty one that has a single runner slide on the
supporting jig. The blade stays vertical.
The jig is simply a 45 degree sled with 'T' slots for clamps to hold various
widths of boards. The board to be mitered is registered against a 'fence'
on the near side. This insures a 90 degree alignment of board to path of
blade. The clamps hold the work piece to the jig. You first cut your work
piece to just over length and slap it in jig and then push it through the
blade.
The first cut throught the blade also cuts the jig to fit the blade.
Voila! 45 degree miter up to the width of the jig. Length of board can be a
bit longer (sqrt of 2 times x) than the height of ceiling above table
saw...or move it outside for the really ambitious projects.
>> > I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
>> > I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
>> > jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
>> > my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
>> > together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
>> > recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
>> > wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
>> > degree cuts.
>>
>>
>> Once again, Fred Bingham's, Practical Yacht Joinery covers the subject.
>>
>> (Uses a factory corner from a sheet of 3/4" plywood)
>>
>> Lew
>
>
There is a new eddition of that book out. "Boat joinery and cabinet making
simlified". I just ordered it from Amazon. 16.95. As much mention as it has
gotten around here, I thought it would be worth a look.
Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> jtpr wrote:
> > I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels.
> > I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a
> > jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on
> > my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown
> > together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having
> > recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
> > wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
> > degree cuts.
>
>
> Once again, Fred Bingham's, Practical Yacht Joinery covers the subject.
>
> (Uses a factory corner from a sheet of 3/4" plywood)
>
> Lew
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "jtpr" wrote in message
>> I thought about that, and I'll probably do something along that line.
>> But I stll need a solution for atarting out with a long board (8').
>> For example, I want to make a jewelry box for my wife, it is big, 33" x
>> 20" x 15". So, I have on order a piece of 13/16" x 15" x 8' curly
>> maple. I want the case to have the grain wrap around it, so I need to
>> start with the full length board. It's the first cuts I'm concerned
>> about.
>
> You may want to seriously consider a 9' board.
>
or even a 10' board
Gary
"jtpr" wrote in message
> Well, I didn't see miter joints, that was my own thing, with splines.
> But after all of this discussion, and what Swingman said, I really
> think I'm gonna go Dovetail. Miter is just what I "know". I have
> never done dovetail, so the challenge would be good. I will do them by
> hand as I don't have, and can't afford, a jig. So, all that being
> said, can anybody offer up a good instructional site so I can get
> practicing? Tips on drawer making is also welcome. Man, this stuff
> gets addictive....
Both Jeff Gorman and Charlie Lieb had good stuff on their websites. Don't
have the url's for you, so you'll have to DAGS.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"jtpr" wrote in message
> Having
> recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was
> wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45
> degree cuts.
For ideas/inspiration, take a look at the sled on my web site below ... jig
and fixtures page. It uses the factory corner of a sheet of plywood (which
you verify beforehand to be 90 degrees) and works on the principle of
complementary angles by alternating cuts for each side of your frame,
insuring a 90 degree joint.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05