I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...
VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.
How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do
something ?
Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.
Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?
Martin
On 11/10/2016 8:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>
> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
> buy...
>
> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
On 11/20/2016 4:18 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/20/2016 10:18 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/19/16 8:51 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> .
>>>>> :-)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>>>>> bandsaws available.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
>>>> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
>>>> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too
>>>> little).
>>>>
>>>> -BR
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>>> blade.
>>
>> I thought Lagunas had flat tires (maybe not...)
>
> Rubber with a slight crown.
>
>> As a kid I first was introduced to "crowning" when noticing the wide
>> pulleys on dragster blowers had a curved profile. It works to keep the
>> belt centered since for some reason I don't quite understand the belt
>> likes to climb. I'm sure the same physics are in force for crowned band
>> saw wheels.
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
> Belt sanders have a crown on the rollers too.
Not all. my 6x48 have straight drums. But my 1x40 has crowned wheels.
>
> I would venture to guess that the crown allows the blade to pivot
> slightly. If the blade on the cutting side is pushed back slightly the
> rigidity of the blade causes the blade to come forward on the opposite
> side of the wheel to counter act the tendency to come off of the wheels.
>
> It makes sense that if ther is a high spot on the wheels you want that
> spot in the center vs. the front or back.
>
> A high spot was on both front and back would cause the blade to dull
> quickly.
>
>
>
>
--
Jeff
On 11/22/2016 12:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>> :
>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>>>>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>>>>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>>>>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25"
>>>>> wide
>>>>> blade.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Mattias Wandel explains this:
>>>> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
>>> feedback control loop!
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>>
>>
>> My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
>> across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
>> maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
>> machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
>> I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
>> the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
>> assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
>> under the center of the blade.
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
> Teeth off the front of the rubber?
> How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.
Many Italian built BS's have "rubber" tires. My Laguna has rubber.
> Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
> down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.
>
> I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
> my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.
>
>
>
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>>>
>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
>>> buy...
>>>
>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>>> --
>>> Jeff
>>
>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
>
>The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
>>
>
>Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
>Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
>replaced them with.
>
>I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>
>(I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open my
>wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that the
>bugger is starting to crack...)
;-)
FWIW, the "voucher" for the next tool isn't. It's a factory rebate
coupon, no matter what it says on it. You have to go to the a web
site and enter the coupon number, the model, and serial number of the
additional tool, then "wait 6 to 8 weeks" for a check).
On 11/22/2016 2:37 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 2:52 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/22/2016 12:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>> On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>> On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
>>>>>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>> :
>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the
>>>>>>> blade
>>>>>>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>>>>>>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>>>>>>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25"
>>>>>>> wide
>>>>>>> blade.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mattias Wandel explains this:
>>>>>> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
>>>>> feedback control loop!
>>>>>
>>>>> -BR
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
>>>> across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
>>>> maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
>>>> machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
>>>> I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
>>>> the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
>>>> assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
>>>> under the center of the blade.
>>>>
>>>> -BR
>>>>
>>>
>>> Teeth off the front of the rubber?
>>> How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.
>>
>> Many Italian built BS's have "rubber" tires. My Laguna has rubber.
>
> I'm not questioning the rubber, I'm curious about the teeth being off
> front (assuming off the rubber) That too me is what I don't understand.
> I never heard of that.
Oh., Well some blades are wider then the tires.... From there I don't
know.
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>
> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
> buy...
>
> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
> --
> Jeff
Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades. The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
>>>> isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>
>>>
>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
>>> all.
>>>
>>
>> +100points!!!
>> I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
>> Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
>> important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
>> invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
>> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>
>>
>
> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend back,
> if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what I believe
> to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new
> blade.
>
Not necessarily achievable with any band saw. I learned that guides were
not necessary, on a good saw and blade when I view sited Mnimax for a
private demo of, IIRC, an MM16 band saw 10 years ago.
Unfortunately the only MM16 that they had to show was missing the upper
and lower guides. I was not happy about that but the rep said they were
not necessary on a rigid saw. Right he was, he and I both made several
cuts, straight and curved, on several thickness woods with no problems.
Ultimately I bought the
Laguna LT 16 HD.
Brewster <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland
> Hardware.
>>
>
> Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
> Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades
> I replaced them with.
>
> I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>
> (I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open
> my wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that
> the bugger is starting to crack...)
>
> -BR
>
You'll want to take a look at this FAQ:
https://web.archive.org/web/20040804100748/http://www.klownhammer.org/cro
wbar/
It was the best I could find.
Puckdropper
On 11/12/2016 11:32 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Nov 2016 21:33:15 -0500
> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>
> was it really half inch
>
> you have clearly established your dislike for these blades
>
> have an olson that seemed fine until i induced a set into it
> took it off and uninduced the set and it seems to be ok
>
> but most cuts are just for roughing stock for the lathe so not
> too precise
>
> if i ever need precision i will look at the widest my saw can take
> but i will still keep my expectations low
>
>
> what are you cutting and what are you making
>
>
>
1/2 the 14" saw says it can handle 3/4 but no one ever does.
About to make some Christmas gifts for some friends we go to every
Christmas eve. About to resaw quite a bit of walnut, cherry and maple.
They'll be more of the trays I did many years ago. A slightly
different design. They entertain a lot so these will be nice.. they
hold a wine glass and hors'doeuvres (sp?) . each looks different so you
can identify your own tray (think plate and wine)
--
Jeff
On 11/11/2016 3:51 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>>>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>>>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>>>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>>>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
>>>>> SUCKS.
>>>>>
>>>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
>>>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>>>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
>>>>> buy...
>>>>>
>>>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>>>>> --
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>
>>>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
>>>
>>> The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
>>> Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
>>> replaced them with.
>>>
>>> I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>
> Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
> Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
> listings.
>
>
>
For your purposes Highland Hardware = Highland Woodworking. If you are
looking for their house brand resaw blade then it is in this neighborhood:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx
I find them to be pretty good blades overall but like any others they can
start to get a bit 'funny' when they feel like it -- first they are
tracking and cutting perfectly then they aren't.
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
>>>>> bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>> guides at all.
>>>>
>>>
>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides
>>> at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are
>>> much more important than guides. I would go so far as to say
>>> guides were invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy
>>> woodworkers who don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend
>> back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what
>> I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when
>> I get new blade.
>>
>
> I stand by what I wrote.
> After much research and experimentation, that's what I came to witness
> as true.
> Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp & true blade
> (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
>
> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on each
> blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With those things
> being attained, the guides are pretty much irrelevant.
>
>
How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions... so how
does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely perfect to make
sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.
It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
--
Jeff
On 11/20/2016 10:12 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/19/16 8:41 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/18/2016 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>
>> Snip
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
>>> tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
>>> the Olson crap.
>>> https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o
>>>
>>> The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
>>> same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
>>> after taking 1/16 slice off.
>>>
>>> Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
>>> but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
>> are buying them. ;~)
>>
>> The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
>> Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
>> Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
>> your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
>> well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
>> Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
>> it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
>> replaced to fit the Laguna.
>
> +1
>
> Personally I've had bad luck with Olsen and TW on my MiniMax, but only
> from a blade life perspective. It all comes down to what you cut and how
> much wear is applied to the blade. Some steels are better than others
> and some tooth designs are not appropriate for one application that may
> not seem that different from the application they excel at.
>
> -BR
>
My and apparently woodchuckers issue was getting the blades to track
correctly to begin with. Timberwolf had me cut one of their blades and
lay it out flat to observe that it laid out straight, it did.
Oddly/out of the blue they asked me if my saw was a Rikon. Yes, they
responded that they have had some issues with their blades and that
particular 18" saw.
In defense of the Rikon the blade that came with it and one, a no name
brand that I had custom made, worked fine. Unfortunately the roller
bearings were an issue for me as they got dirty quickly and there was a
lot of vibration along with the tracking issues with different blades.
Some of the blades moved forward and backward as the saw ran.
On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> .
>> :-)
>>
>>
>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>
>>
>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>> bandsaws available.
>>
>>
>
> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).
>
> -BR
>
Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.
On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
>>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
> :
>
>>>>
>>>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>>>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>>>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>>>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>>>> blade.
>>>
>>>
>>> Mattias Wandel explains this:
>>> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
>> feedback control loop!
>>
>> -BR
>>
>>
>
> My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
> across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
> maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
> machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
> I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
> the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
> assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
> under the center of the blade.
>
> -BR
>
Teeth off the front of the rubber?
How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.
Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.
I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.
--
Jeff
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
>>> isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>
>>
>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
>> all.
>>
>
> +100points!!!
> I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
> Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
> important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
> invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>
>
I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend back,
if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what I believe
to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new
blade.
--
Jeff
On 11/11/2016 9:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting.
> Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the
> blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.
Yep ... I eyeball it to the thickness of a sheet of paper/$bill when
setting mine.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
>>>>>>> bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>>> guides at all.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
>>>>> guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
>>>>> true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
>>>>> far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
>>>>> manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
>>>>> set up their saws.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
>>>> bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
>>>> that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
>>>> test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
>>> that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
>>> tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
>>> purpose, as well!).
>>>
>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
>>> each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
>>> those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
>>> irrelevant.
>>>
>>>
>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>
> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>
>
>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...
>
> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
> from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?
>
On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
back, so the blade would never come off.
>
>> so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
>> perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.
>>
>
> Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
> through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
> stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
> :-)
>
>
>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>
>
> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
> bandsaws available.
>
>
--
Jeff
And remember if the blade moves very far - what is it doing on the
wheels? and to itself. A tiny bit - I like the old man thoughts -
Use a sheet of cig paper - I have a pack in my metal lathe G-box.
Do you use dial indicators on the wheels as they turn at speed ? or
is it only in idle and hand turned... Or at all ?
do your wheels have a flat spot on the rubber band from being kept at
tension for a long time ? And the wheel(s) cause the oscillation ?
Martin
On 11/12/2016 8:27 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/11/2016 9:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting.
>> Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the
>> blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.
>
> Yep ... I eyeball it to the thickness of a sheet of paper/$bill when
> setting mine.
>
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 13:51:39 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>>>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>>>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>>>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>>>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
>>>>> SUCKS.
>>>>>
>>>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
>>>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>>>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
>>>>> buy...
>>>>>
>>>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>>>>> --
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>
>>>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
>>>
>>>The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
>>>>
>>>
>>>Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
>>>Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
>>>replaced them with.
>>>
>>>I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>
>Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
>Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
>listings.
>
>
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bandsaw-blades-accessories.aspx
On 11/20/2016 10:18 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/19/16 8:51 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> .
>>>> :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>>>> bandsaws available.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
>>> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
>>> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too
>>> little).
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>>
>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>> blade.
>
> I thought Lagunas had flat tires (maybe not...)
Rubber with a slight crown.
> As a kid I first was introduced to "crowning" when noticing the wide
> pulleys on dragster blowers had a curved profile. It works to keep the
> belt centered since for some reason I don't quite understand the belt
> likes to climb. I'm sure the same physics are in force for crowned band
> saw wheels.
>
> -BR
>
Belt sanders have a crown on the rollers too.
I would venture to guess that the crown allows the blade to pivot
slightly. If the blade on the cutting side is pushed back slightly the
rigidity of the blade causes the blade to come forward on the opposite
side of the wheel to counter act the tendency to come off of the wheels.
It makes sense that if ther is a high spot on the wheels you want that
spot in the center vs. the front or back.
A high spot was on both front and back would cause the blade to dull
quickly.
On 11/22/2016 2:52 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 12:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>> On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
>>>>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>> :
>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>>>>>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>>>>>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>>>>>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25"
>>>>>> wide
>>>>>> blade.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Mattias Wandel explains this:
>>>>> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
>>>> feedback control loop!
>>>>
>>>> -BR
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
>>> across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
>>> maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
>>> machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
>>> I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
>>> the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
>>> assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
>>> under the center of the blade.
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>> Teeth off the front of the rubber?
>> How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.
>
> Many Italian built BS's have "rubber" tires. My Laguna has rubber.
I'm not questioning the rubber, I'm curious about the teeth being off
front (assuming off the rubber) That too me is what I don't understand.
I never heard of that.
>
>
>
>> Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
>> down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.
>>
>> I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
>> my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.
>>
>>
>>
>
--
Jeff
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> .
>>> :-)
>>>
>>>
>>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>>> bandsaws available.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
>> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
>> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
>
>Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>blade.
Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC
peterbb (at) telus.net
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vpsboat.com
On 11/23/2016 10:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/22/16 11:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
>>> across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
>>> maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
>>> machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
>>> I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
>>> the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
>>> assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
>>> under the center of the blade.
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>> Teeth off the front of the rubber?
>
> Yep.
>
>> How old is the saw?
>
> 2003
>
> What brand?
>
> MiniMax 16
>
> I wonder if the tire is worn.
>
> Nope, just SOP for these saws.
>
>> Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
>> down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.
>
> I fried (melted) my tires when I was resawing some really tough wood
> with a 1-1/4" 0.035" thick blade, about the max I'd ever try to tension
> on that saw. Usually the tires are supposed to last "forever" (_they_
> say), but other then the melted sections, the rubber was nice and
> pliable. Bummer is new rubber ran $40 each.
>
>>
>> I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
>> my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.
>
> I could run in the center, but the teeth would tend to eat up the tire
> surface given the minimal crown. I have a 1960's 14" Powermatic that is
> more typical in that the blades need to run in the center. This saw has
> flat machined wheels so the tires supply the crown. I replaced the
> original rubber with urethane, which were also flat. The tire mfg.
> suggested building up the crown with strips of tape placed in the center
> of the wheel (under the tire), 1/4" strip on top of a 1/2" strip.
> The crown is visible and the blade loves to seek out that high point.
>
> That second saw lets me keep a 1/4" blade on the 14" saw for general
> cutting and curves and leave the MM set up for resawing. BIG time saver
> not having to swap out blades in the middle of a project.
>
> -BR
>
>>
>>
>>
>
I have not had to replace the urethane tire on my Delta . I would have
thought the urethane tires have the crown built in. But I don't know as
I've never taken off the tire. Maybe some do and some don't.
I usually run a 1/2 blade unless doing something curvy. So my narrower
blades get much less use.
Thanks, for the info, I had never heard of that, but I guess it makes sense.
--
Jeff
On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
>>> all.
>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his
>> line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he
>> said you were more full of shit than a
>> thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount
>> of misinformation on the internet.
>>
>> --
>> for full context, visit
>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Who is Lonnie Bird?
>
> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
> MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out them.
>
>
> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than him.
And to bring you up to speed on this. I visited the home office at
Minimax to demo the MM16. Unfortunately for both of us, me and the rep
showing me the saw, there were no guides on the MM16. We sawed with
guides anyway per his comment that you can saw with out guides.
On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
> thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.
>
> --
> for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>
>
>
Who is Lonnie Bird?
He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out them.
I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than him.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides
>>> at all.
>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating
>> his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my
>> iphone he said you were more full of shit than a thanksgiving turkey
>> then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on
>> the internet.
>>
>> --
>> for full context, visit
>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Who is Lonnie Bird?
>
> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
> MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out
> them.
>
>
> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than
> him.
Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures were
better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember enough
about the content to give you an idea of its quality.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On 11/25/16 4:32 PM, krw wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 16:41:07 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/24/2016 8:31 PM, krw wrote:
>>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>>>
>>>> krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>>>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to
>>>> put a name to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet
>>>> for decades and you're just as predictable and boring as all
>>>> those who came before you.
>>>
>>> I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So?
>>> I've been using my initials online for 20 years (with various
>>> real email addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I
>>> guess I could make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that
>>> would make you happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas
>>> gift?
>>>
>>>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement
>>>> and put a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2
>>>> shits about the worthless detritus you type.
>>>>
>>>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>>>
>>> Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
>>>
>> Mike was not barking at you.
>
> He responded to my post suggesting that Lagoon be ignored and went
> out of his way to copy my (munged) address line (underlined above).
>
>
>> He was barking at Lagunaxxxxxx for hiding behind an anonymous name.
>> And he has probably been on this group with a regular name, and
>> changes to do some trash talking.
>
> Likely but 'twasn't me. Sockpuppets aren't my thing. I've never
> posted without at least my initials in either the sig or address
> lines. If anyone really wants to know my name, it's "Keith".
> Didn't think so. ;-)
>
> It's really not a big deal, though. I've been yelled at before.
>
To both of you, Keith (the real krw) and Jeff (woodchucker)...
That wasn't me who posted that. It was our Village Idiot changing his
headers to impersonate me.
Look closely at the email address or view the message source with full
headers and addresses.
This is just my newest internet stalker getting his rocks off between
jerking off to pictures of the Kardashians or herds of sheep, while his
Mom's away at work so she can afford his internet fees and pop tarts
while he lives in her basement.
Nothing new to see here. As Jeff said, he's probably a guy who's been
in here off and on, regularly, who's jealous and has no life or real
problems. Sure enough, he'll be back to comment on this with some more,
boring, predictable, lame-ass insults that he thinks are real zingers.
I've never been to a rodeo, but this isn;t my first go-around with
internet cowards who talk shit while hiding behind anonymous re-mailers.
Anyone can look me up, I'm public. I don't say anything in here I
wouldn't say to anyone's face. Like most ration humans, we all give and
take some good-natured ribbing in here. I consider several guys in here
to be actual friends and have no doubt if I met more of you in person,
you'd be added to that list.
But I have zero respect for pussies who talk big shit, all while hiding
on the internet.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 16:41:07 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/24/2016 8:31 PM, krw wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>>
>>> krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
>>> to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
>>> you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
>>
>> I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So? I've
>> been using my initials online for 20 years (with various real email
>> addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I guess I could
>> make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that would make you
>> happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas gift?
>>
>>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
>>> a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
>>> worthless detritus you type.
>>>
>>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>>
>> Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
>>
>Mike was not barking at you.
He responded to my post suggesting that Lagoon be ignored and went out
of his way to copy my (munged) address line (underlined above).
>He was barking at Lagunaxxxxxx for hiding behind an anonymous name. And
>he has probably been on this group with a regular name, and changes to
>do some trash talking.
Likely but 'twasn't me. Sockpuppets aren't my thing. I've never
posted without at least my initials in either the sig or address
lines. If anyone really wants to know my name, it's "Keith". Didn't
think so. ;-)
It's really not a big deal, though. I've been yelled at before.
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
On 11/24/2016 8:31 PM, krw wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>>
>>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>
>> krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
>>
>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
>> to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
>> you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
>
> I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So? I've
> been using my initials online for 20 years (with various real email
> addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I guess I could
> make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that would make you
> happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas gift?
>
>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
>> a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
>> worthless detritus you type.
>>
>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>
> Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
>
Mike was not barking at you.
He was barking at Lagunaxxxxxx for hiding behind an anonymous name. And
he has probably been on this group with a regular name, and changes to
do some trash talking.
--
Jeff
On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>
>>Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>
>krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
>
>It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
>to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
>you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So? I've
been using my initials online for 20 years (with various real email
addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I guess I could
make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that would make you
happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas gift?
>When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
>a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
>worthless detritus you type.
>
>Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
On Thu, 24 Nov 2016 09:00:16 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>> On Wed, 23 Nov 2016 22:53:20 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/23/16 9:31 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
>>>> On 11/23/2016, little drunner boi blubbered:
>>>>> On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>>>>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>>>>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>>>>>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>>>>>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>>>>>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>>>>>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -BR
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
>>>>> properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
>>>>
>>>> http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
>>>>
>>>>> I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
>>>>> something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
>>>>> guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
>>>>
>>>> Jeezus kryist... would you spare us all the backpedaling and
>>>> just stop the pathetic face saving yammering. You have no
>>>> idea how fucking stupid you really sound.
>>>>
>>>> (((flush)))
>>>>
>>>
>>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
>>> to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
>>> you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
>>>
>>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
>>> a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
>>> worthless detritus you type.
>>>
>>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>>
>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>
>
>LOL under this name, I actually believe that this troll shows back up
>under a name we all recognize and most of the time but not always tolerate.
If that's the case, ignore it's, only slightly more rational,
sockpuppet, too.
On 11/23/2016 1:34 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Tue, 22 Nov 2016 19:04:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> Lonnie Bird
>
> http://www.lonniebird.com/
>
> Yep he is selling something, but the thing about the internet is true.
> I heard that on the internet so YMMV.
>
> I think it is about Travis's ego though.
>
Perhaps if my statement had not been taken out of context it would have
made more since to Mr. Bird.
On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
> thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.
>
> --
> for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>
>
>
Ask Mr. Bird how this band saw would cut with guides. Hint, it does not
have guides.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tD68veoEz3k
Or how the thrust bearings and guides work on this blade.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAFELL-Z5Ec-BANDSAW-BLADES-DOUBLE-SIDED-BANDSAW-BLADES-092337-/330858956821
On 11/23/2016 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>>
>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove the
>> upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience confidently
>> outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>
>>
>
>
> I've done the same, no issues.
> In all fairness, I can see how narrow blades (< 1/4") with limited beam
> strength might bend enough (without guides) to derail when being pushed
> (i.e. resawing). The strength of the saw frame probably factors in too,
> especially if it begins to twist ever so slightly when loading up the
> blade.
>
> -BR
>
And in all fairness I don't recommend running with out guides either, I
just know that better saws and blades can.
I made this comment when some one mentioned that the saw did not look
like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.
The fact that the blade was not touching parts of the guide is what
prompted me to mention that the guides are not a part of proper
tracking, and or necessary.
On Wed, 23 Nov 2016 22:53:20 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/23/16 9:31 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
>> On 11/23/2016, little drunner boi blubbered:
>>> On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>>>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>>>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>>>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>>>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>>>
>>>> -BR
>>>>
>>>
>>> Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
>>> properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
>>
>> http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
>>
>>> I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
>>> something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
>>> guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
>>
>> Jeezus kryist... would you spare us all the backpedaling and
>> just stop the pathetic face saving yammering. You have no
>> idea how fucking stupid you really sound.
>>
>> (((flush)))
>>
>
>It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
>to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
>you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
>
>When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
>a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
>worthless detritus you type.
>
>Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
On 11/23/2016 12:21 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>> guides at all.
>>>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
>>>> demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your
>>>> message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
>>>> thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering
>>>> amount of misinformation on the internet.
>>>>
>>>> -- for full context, visit
>>>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
> Who is Lonnie Bird?
>>>
>>> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
>>> MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with
>>> out them.
>>>
>>>
>>> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
>>> than him.
>>
>> Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures
>> were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember
>> enough about the content to give you an idea of its quality.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>>
>
> I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that contained
> false information or thing that had been excepted practice for decades
> and decades which were taken as the Gospel truth simply because they'd
> never been challenged or changed.
>
> Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever even
> tried it.
> BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did was complete bull$h!t
> anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm guessing Leon fell for
> some troll bait which we all do from time to time.
>
>
Lonnie Bird makes some beautiful furniture. He's not your typical
writer, he's the real deal.
I have not read his book.
--
Jeff
On 11/24/2016 9:05 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/23/2016 1:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>> Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
>> properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
>>
> When cutting with blades narrower than 1/4" I don't use the guides. I
> don't think there's enough purchase on them to hold them. I do use a
> carter narrow blade guide on top which is just a thrust bearing with a
> slot in it, it keeps it from pushing back, and from traveling offline.
> But it doesn't keep it guided into the wood.
IIRC Laguna uses special guides for narrow blades which have graphite
embedded and are designed to capture the blade. IIRC I have heard that
wood can be used in place of the normal guide.
>
>> I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
>> something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
>> guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
>>
>> I do contend that guides are often used as a crutch and/or make for for
>> poor design/manufacturing of cheap saws. Some people buy a bandsaw and
>> never actually set it up or adjust it properly. And some manufactured
>> don't bother "getting it right" at the factory because they just figure
>> the guides will fix all that.
>>
>> I also believe that more often than not, people are trying to do too
>> much with a blade and/or using a dull blade and that's why they expect
>> the thrust bearings to do all the muscle work.
>>
>>
>
>
On 11/22/2016 11:21 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>> guides at all.
>>>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
>>>> demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your
>>>> message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
>>>> thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering
>>>> amount of misinformation on the internet.
>>>>
>>>> -- for full context, visit
>>>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
> Who is Lonnie Bird?
>>>
>>> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
>>> MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with
>>> out them.
>>>
>>>
>>> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
>>> than him.
>>
>> Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures
>> were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember
>> enough about the content to give you an idea of its quality.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>>
>
> I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that contained
> false information or thing that had been excepted practice for decades
> and decades which were taken as the Gospel truth simply because they'd
> never been challenged or changed.
>
> Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever even
> tried it.
> BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did was complete bull$h!t
> anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm guessing Leon fell for
> some troll bait which we all do from time to time.
>
>
I fell but proved my statement correct.
On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Nov 2016 22:53:20 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/23/16 9:31 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
>>> On 11/23/2016, little drunner boi blubbered:
>>>> On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>>>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>>>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>>>>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>>>>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>>>>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>>>>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>>>>
>>>>> -BR
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
>>>> properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
>>>
>>> http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
>>>
>>>> I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
>>>> something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
>>>> guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
>>>
>>> Jeezus kryist... would you spare us all the backpedaling and
>>> just stop the pathetic face saving yammering. You have no
>>> idea how fucking stupid you really sound.
>>>
>>> (((flush)))
>>>
>>
>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
>> to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
>> you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
>>
>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
>> a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
>> worthless detritus you type.
>>
>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>
> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>
LOL under this name, I actually believe that this troll shows back up
under a name we all recognize and most of the time but not always tolerate.
On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>> guides at all.
>>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
>>> demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your
>>> message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
>>> thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering
>>> amount of misinformation on the internet.
>>>
>>> -- for full context, visit
>>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
Who is Lonnie Bird?
>>
>> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
>> MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with
>> out them.
>>
>>
>> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
>> than him.
>
> Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures
> were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember
> enough about the content to give you an idea of its quality.
>
> Puckdropper
>
I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that contained
false information or thing that had been excepted practice for decades
and decades which were taken as the Gospel truth simply because they'd
never been challenged or changed.
Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever even
tried it.
BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did was complete bull$h!t
anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm guessing Leon fell for
some troll bait which we all do from time to time.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> No problem, I figured you just didn't see the changes.
> I'm guilty of falling for it a time or two.
>
Oh, I just noticed something I could filter on. Thanks for the
inspiration.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On 11/25/16 6:41 PM, krw wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 18:04:27 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/25/16 4:32 PM, krw wrote:
>>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 16:41:07 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/24/2016 8:31 PM, krw wrote:
>>>>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
>>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>>
>>>>>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to
>>>>>> put a name to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet
>>>>>> for decades and you're just as predictable and boring as all
>>>>>> those who came before you.
>>>>>
>>>>> I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So?
>>>>> I've been using my initials online for 20 years (with various
>>>>> real email addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I
>>>>> guess I could make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that
>>>>> would make you happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas
>>>>> gift?
>>>>>
>>>>>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement
>>>>>> and put a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2
>>>>>> shits about the worthless detritus you type.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>>>>>
>>>>> Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
>>>>>
>>>> Mike was not barking at you.
>>>
>>> He responded to my post suggesting that Lagoon be ignored and went
>>> out of his way to copy my (munged) address line (underlined above).
>>>
>>>
>>>> He was barking at Lagunaxxxxxx for hiding behind an anonymous name.
>>>> And he has probably been on this group with a regular name, and
>>>> changes to do some trash talking.
>>>
>>> Likely but 'twasn't me. Sockpuppets aren't my thing. I've never
>>> posted without at least my initials in either the sig or address
>>> lines. If anyone really wants to know my name, it's "Keith".
>>> Didn't think so. ;-)
>>>
>>> It's really not a big deal, though. I've been yelled at before.
>>>
>>
>> To both of you, Keith (the real krw) and Jeff (woodchucker)...
>>
>> That wasn't me who posted that. It was our Village Idiot changing his
>> headers to impersonate me.
>
> Oh, crap. I apologize. I should have expected that since we were
> having a conversation in a different thread.
>
No problem, I figured you just didn't see the changes.
I'm guilty of falling for it a time or two.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/25/16 9:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/25/16 6:41 PM, krw wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 18:04:27 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/25/16 4:32 PM, krw wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 16:41:07 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 11/24/2016 8:31 PM, krw wrote:
>>>>>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
>>>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>>>
>>>>>>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to
>>>>>>> put a name to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet
>>>>>>> for decades and you're just as predictable and boring as all
>>>>>>> those who came before you.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So?
>>>>>> I've been using my initials online for 20 years (with various
>>>>>> real email addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I
>>>>>> guess I could make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that
>>>>>> would make you happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas
>>>>>> gift?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement
>>>>>>> and put a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2
>>>>>>> shits about the worthless detritus you type.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
>>>>>>
>>>>> Mike was not barking at you.
>>>>
>>>> He responded to my post suggesting that Lagoon be ignored and went
>>>> out of his way to copy my (munged) address line (underlined above).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> He was barking at Lagunaxxxxxx for hiding behind an anonymous name.
>>>>> And he has probably been on this group with a regular name, and
>>>>> changes to do some trash talking.
>>>>
>>>> Likely but 'twasn't me. Sockpuppets aren't my thing. I've never
>>>> posted without at least my initials in either the sig or address
>>>> lines. If anyone really wants to know my name, it's "Keith".
>>>> Didn't think so. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> It's really not a big deal, though. I've been yelled at before.
>>>>
>>>
>>> To both of you, Keith (the real krw) and Jeff (woodchucker)...
>>>
>>> That wasn't me who posted that. It was our Village Idiot changing his
>>> headers to impersonate me.
>>
>> Oh, crap. I apologize. I should have expected that since we were
>> having a conversation in a different thread.
>>
>
> No problem, I figured you just didn't see the changes.
> I'm guilty of falling for it a time or two.
>
He's at it again in recent posts.
I think ignoring the little dipshit is the best policy.
Like most children, when they don't get any attention, they'll move on
to bothering someone or something else.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 18:04:27 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/25/16 4:32 PM, krw wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 16:41:07 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/24/2016 8:31 PM, krw wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:48:21 +0000, -MIKE-
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
>>>>>
>>>>> krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>
>>>>> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to
>>>>> put a name to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet
>>>>> for decades and you're just as predictable and boring as all
>>>>> those who came before you.
>>>>
>>>> I get enough spam without advertising my email address. So?
>>>> I've been using my initials online for 20 years (with various
>>>> real email addresses). It's as relevant as a "name". THough I
>>>> guess I could make up a sockpuppet with a Gmail address, if that
>>>> would make you happier. ...or did you want to send me a Christmas
>>>> gift?
>>>>
>>>>> When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement
>>>>> and put a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2
>>>>> shits about the worthless detritus you type.
>>>>>
>>>>> Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
>>>>
>>>> Got a turkey bone in your throat? ...or somewhere else?
>>>>
>>> Mike was not barking at you.
>>
>> He responded to my post suggesting that Lagoon be ignored and went
>> out of his way to copy my (munged) address line (underlined above).
>>
>>
>>> He was barking at Lagunaxxxxxx for hiding behind an anonymous name.
>>> And he has probably been on this group with a regular name, and
>>> changes to do some trash talking.
>>
>> Likely but 'twasn't me. Sockpuppets aren't my thing. I've never
>> posted without at least my initials in either the sig or address
>> lines. If anyone really wants to know my name, it's "Keith".
>> Didn't think so. ;-)
>>
>> It's really not a big deal, though. I've been yelled at before.
>>
>
>To both of you, Keith (the real krw) and Jeff (woodchucker)...
>
>That wasn't me who posted that. It was our Village Idiot changing his
>headers to impersonate me.
Oh, crap. I apologize. I should have expected that since we were
having a conversation in a different thread.
>Look closely at the email address or view the message source with full
>headers and addresses.
>This is just my newest internet stalker getting his rocks off between
>jerking off to pictures of the Kardashians or herds of sheep, while his
>Mom's away at work so she can afford his internet fees and pop tarts
>while he lives in her basement.
>
>Nothing new to see here. As Jeff said, he's probably a guy who's been
>in here off and on, regularly, who's jealous and has no life or real
>problems.
Jealous, check. No life, check. Oh, but he has real problems,
alright.
>Sure enough, he'll be back to comment on this with some more,
>boring, predictable, lame-ass insults that he thinks are real zingers.
>I've never been to a rodeo, but this isn;t my first go-around with
>internet cowards who talk shit while hiding behind anonymous re-mailers.
>
>Anyone can look me up, I'm public. I don't say anything in here I
>wouldn't say to anyone's face. Like most ration humans, we all give and
>take some good-natured ribbing in here. I consider several guys in here
>to be actual friends and have no doubt if I met more of you in person,
>you'd be added to that list.
>
>But I have zero respect for pussies who talk big shit, all while hiding
>on the internet.
On 11/22/16 11:30 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 11:21 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
>>>>>> need guides at all.
>>>>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
>>>>> demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie
>>>>> your message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit
>>>>> than a thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the
>>>>> staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.
>>>>>
>>>>> -- for full context, visit
>>>>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>
Who is Lonnie Bird?
>>>>
>>>> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from
>>>> the MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw
>>>> with out them.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
>>>> than him.
>>>
>>> Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and
>>> pictures were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I
>>> don't remember enough about the content to give you an idea of
>>> its quality.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>>
>>
>> I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that
>> contained false information or thing that had been excepted
>> practice for decades and decades which were taken as the Gospel
>> truth simply because they'd never been challenged or changed.
>>
>> Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever
>> even tried it. BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did
>> was complete bull$h!t anyway, so my last point is kind of moot.
>> I'm guessing Leon fell for some troll bait which we all do from
>> time to time.
>>
>>
> I fell but proved my statement correct.
Yours, mine, and the experience of many others proved it.
I just think this "meeting" never happened and if it did, Lonnie never
said that, certainly not the way it was quoted.
Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove the
upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience confidently
outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove the
> upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience confidently
> outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>
>
I've done the same, no issues.
In all fairness, I can see how narrow blades (< 1/4") with limited beam
strength might bend enough (without guides) to derail when being pushed
(i.e. resawing). The strength of the saw frame probably factors in too,
especially if it begins to twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
-BR
On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
...
> Who is Lonnie Bird?
...
<http://www.finewoodworking.com/readerproject/2015/05/27/federal-style-serpentine-chest>
I've known Lonnie for nearly 40 yr now; first met him when he was still
in Berea, KY. Besides a superb craftsman he's a real gentleman. Yes,
he runs a commercial woodworking school as well as his shop and has some
endorsements but everybody deserves to make a living without impugning
motive.
On 11/23/16 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
> ...
>
>> Who is Lonnie Bird?
> ...
>
> <http://www.finewoodworking.com/readerproject/2015/05/27/federal-style-serpentine-chest>
>
>
> I've known Lonnie for nearly 40 yr now; first met him when he was still
> in Berea, KY. Besides a superb craftsman he's a real gentleman. Yes,
> he runs a commercial woodworking school as well as his shop and has some
> endorsements but everybody deserves to make a living without impugning
> motive.
>
A gentleman, yes, which is why I believe the alleged from him is
fictional.
I don't believe he would ever have said that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/23/16 11:05 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/23/2016 12:21 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>>> replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>>> guides at all.
>>>>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
>>>>> demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie
>>>>> your message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit
>>>>> than a thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the
>>>>> staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.
>>>>>
>>>>> -- for full context, visit
>>>>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
Who is Lonnie Bird?
>>>>
>>>> He is there to sell you something. I got my information from
>>>> the MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can
>>>> saw with out them.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
>>>> than him.
>>>
>>> Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and
>>> pictures were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I
>>> don't remember enough about the content to give you an idea of
>>> its quality.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>>
>>
>> I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that
>> contained false information or thing that had been excepted
>> practice for decades and decades which were taken as the Gospel
>> truth simply because they'd never been challenged or changed.
>>
>> Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever
>> even tried it. BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did
>> was complete bull$h!t anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm
>> guessing Leon fell for some troll bait which we all do from time to
>> time.
>>
>>
> Lonnie Bird makes some beautiful furniture. He's not your typical
> writer, he's the real deal.
>
> I have not read his book.
>
I have no doubt. Nothing is my post is meant as any disrespect to him.
A. As I said, I have serious doubts that he even said when the troll
said he said.
B. He probably has gone his entire life without ever having and reason
to use a bandsaw without the guides, so as with anyone who's never tried
it, your initial thought is probably, "Well, that sounds dangerous, I
wouldn't recommend it."
So if this fiction encounter did in fact take place, I suspect his
actual response was more in line with that. However, if he ever tried
it, he'd be in for a pleasant surprise. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>>
>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>
>>
>
>
> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>
> -BR
>
Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
I do contend that guides are often used as a crutch and/or make for for
poor design/manufacturing of cheap saws. Some people buy a bandsaw and
never actually set it up or adjust it properly. And some manufactured
don't bother "getting it right" at the factory because they just figure
the guides will fix all that.
I also believe that more often than not, people are trying to do too
much with a blade and/or using a dull blade and that's why they expect
the thrust bearings to do all the muscle work.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/22/2016, Travis McDowell wrote:
> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating
> his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my
> iphone he said you were more full of shit than a thanksgiving turkey
> then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on
> the internet.
>
> --
> for full context, visit
> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>
Kudos to Travis for making giblet gravy out of both those
puffy pretentious turkeys with one crushing post! You got that
pompous prick Leon and his sycophantic ball washer, drummer boi,
spinning like whirling dervish trying to backpedal their way
out of looking like total fucking idiots! LOLOK
Cheers!
> Who is Lonnie Bird?
Muahahahahaahahahhaha!!
On 11/23/2016, little drunner boi blubbered:
>On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
>Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
>properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
>I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
>something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
>guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
Jeezus kryist... would you spare us all the backpedaling and
just stop the pathetic face saving yammering. You have no
idea how fucking stupid you really sound.
(((flush)))
On 11/23/16 9:23 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
> On 11/22/2016, Travis McDowell wrote:
>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating
>> his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my
>> iphone he said you were more full of shit than a thanksgiving turkey
>> then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on
>> the internet.
>>
>> --
>> for full context, visit
>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>
>
> Kudos to Travis for making giblet gravy out of both those
> puffy pretentious turkeys with one crushing post! You got that
> pompous prick Leon and his sycophantic ball washer, drummer boi,
> spinning like whirling dervish trying to backpedal their way
> out of looking like total fucking idiots! LOLOK
>
> Cheers!
>
>> Who is Lonnie Bird?
> Muahahahahaahahahhaha!!
>
Ohhhh, here's my cute, adorable little internet stalker again with a
holiday greeting.
Anonymous trolls are so delightful. It's so easy to hide behind fake
names and accounts while posting from mom's basement, huh?
When you grow a pair and decide to hang up the girl panties and come out
from hiding, maybe post your real name and be a grown ass man.
But you'll never do it, I know it, you know, everyone in here knows it.
It's easy being an anonymous little pussy, isn't it?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/23/16 9:31 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
> On 11/23/2016, little drunner boi blubbered:
>> On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>> Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
>> properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
>
> http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
>
>> I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
>> something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
>> guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
>
> Jeezus kryist... would you spare us all the backpedaling and
> just stop the pathetic face saving yammering. You have no
> idea how fucking stupid you really sound.
>
> (((flush)))
>
It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
worthless detritus you type.
Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> IIRC Laguna uses special guides for narrow blades which have graphite
> embedded and are designed to capture the blade. IIRC I have heard that
> wood can be used in place of the normal guide.
It can indeed. I use square Cool Blocks in my top quides but none were
available for the round bottom ones so I made them from scrap lignum vitae.
I only use 1/2" and 3/16" blades, the latter is mostly within the blocks.
On 11/24/2016 8:42 AM, krw wrote:
>
>Ignore it and it'll find another group to get it's jollies.
krw <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
worthless detritus you type.
Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
--
-MIKE-
"...a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all."
--Leon (12 Nov 2016)
--
http://www.bluewaffle.net/bw.jpg
--- MY SMOKIN HAWT WIFE ^^^^^^^
On 11/23/16 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
> ...
>
>> Who is Lonnie Bird?
> ...
>
> <http://www.finewoodworking.com/readerproject/2015/05/27/federal-style-serpentine-chest>
>
>
> I've known Lonnie for nearly 40 yr now; first met him when he was still
> in Berea, KY. Besides a superb craftsman he's a real gentleman. Yes,
> he runs a commercial woodworking school as well as his shop and has some
> endorsements but everybody deserves to make a living without impugning
> motive.
dpb <[email protected]> <-----<<anonymous little pussy>
It's easy being an anonymous little pussy who doesn't have to put a name
to your words, huh? Your kind has been on usenet for decades and
you're just as predictable and boring as all those who came before you.
When you decide to man up and get out of your parents' basement and put
a real name to your comments, then someone might give 2 shits about the
worthless detritus you type.
Until then, have fun with your cowardly little child's games.
--
-MIKE-
"...a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all."
--Leon (12 Nov 2016)
--
http://www.bluewaffle.net/bw.jpg
--- MY SMOKIN HAWT WIFE ^^^^^^
On 11/23/2016 1:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
>>> the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
>>> confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
>> blades (< 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
>> guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
>> the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
>> twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
> Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
> properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.
>
When cutting with blades narrower than 1/4" I don't use the guides. I
don't think there's enough purchase on them to hold them. I do use a
carter narrow blade guide on top which is just a thrust bearing with a
slot in it, it keeps it from pushing back, and from traveling offline.
But it doesn't keep it guided into the wood.
> I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
> something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
> guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."
>
> I do contend that guides are often used as a crutch and/or make for for
> poor design/manufacturing of cheap saws. Some people buy a bandsaw and
> never actually set it up or adjust it properly. And some manufactured
> don't bother "getting it right" at the factory because they just figure
> the guides will fix all that.
>
> I also believe that more often than not, people are trying to do too
> much with a blade and/or using a dull blade and that's why they expect
> the thrust bearings to do all the muscle work.
>
>
--
Jeff
On 11/23/2016 10:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/23/16 9:23 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
>> On 11/22/2016, Travis McDowell wrote:
>>> Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating
>>> his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my
>>> iphone he said you were more full of shit than a thanksgiving turkey
>>> then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on
>>> the internet.
>>>
>>> --
>>> for full context, visit
>>> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/damn-olson-blades-802682-.htm
>>>
>>
>> Kudos to Travis for making giblet gravy out of both those
>> puffy pretentious turkeys with one crushing post! You got that
>> pompous prick Leon and his sycophantic ball washer, drummer boi,
>> spinning like whirling dervish trying to backpedal their way
>> out of looking like total fucking idiots! LOLOK
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>>> Who is Lonnie Bird?
>> Muahahahahaahahahhaha!!
>>
>
> Ohhhh, here's my cute, adorable little internet stalker again with a
> holiday greeting.
> Anonymous trolls are so delightful. It's so easy to hide behind fake
> names and accounts while posting from mom's basement, huh?
> When you grow a pair and decide to hang up the girl panties and come out
> from hiding, maybe post your real name and be a grown ass man.
>
> But you'll never do it, I know it, you know, everyone in here knows it.
> It's easy being an anonymous little pussy, isn't it?
>
>
I have noticed that this guy and his alter ego show up when some one
else disappears, and especially when he can't get any one to side with
him...
On 11/11/2016 8:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
> turning at all. No touch.
>
> How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do
> something ?
>
> Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.
>
> Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?
>
>
> Martin
>
> On 11/10/2016 8:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>>
>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
>> buy...
>>
>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
The rear bearing is pulled back. BTW your bearing should not be running
up against the blade when not under load. As soon as you touch wood is
when it should engage.
The blade was uncoiled in my hands, with gloves on.
I spent a long time years ago truing this band saw up. The wheel is true .
My timberwolf broke, but it was running true. My old dull olson runs true.
This is a blade that has some wierd set in it. Not what I would call
usable. I made a couple of test resaw cuts and it was so rough .. not
close to the timberwolf.
And yes everyone I had planned on trying the wood slicer, I have been
happy with my timberwolfs, but I am always willing to give something a try.
--
Jeff
On 11/12/2016 7:23 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a Timberwolf
>> in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>>
>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in it
>> that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run clean.
>> This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever buy...
>>
>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>> --
>> Jeff
>
> After 30 minutes (or less) the tension may have changed. Tried
> increasing/decreasing it?
>
>
Yes, I did. I increased it hoping to take the set out. and kept moving
it up until it finally bottomed the spring out.
It's a good set that won't come out.
I might have lived with it if the cut wasn't so poor. It has a pretty
thick kerf too.
--
Jeff
On 11/18/2016 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:
Snip
>>
>>
>
> New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
> tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
> the Olson crap.
> https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o
>
> The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
> same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
> after taking 1/16 slice off.
>
> Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
> but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.
>
>
>
Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
are buying them. ;~)
The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
replaced to fit the Laguna.
On 11/14/2016 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
>>>>>>>> bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>>>> guides at all.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
>>>>>> guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
>>>>>> true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
>>>>>> far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
>>>>>> manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
>>>>>> set up their saws.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
>>>>> bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
>>>>> that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
>>>>> test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
>>>> that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
>>>> tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
>>>> purpose, as well!).
>>>>
>>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
>>>> each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
>>>> those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
>>>> irrelevant.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>>
>> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>>
>>
>>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...
>>
>> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
>> from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?
>>
>
> On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
> have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
That is totally different, the blade does not cut in reverse so the
reverse pressure on the blade pulls it off of the wheels. When cutting
the pressure is less and the blades naturally try to stay on the wheels,
hense they don't touch the guides when just spinning.
>
> When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
> back, so the blade would never come off.
Some band saws will require guides, not all do. Granted under heavy
pressure the blade can be forced off but getting back to the original
problem, a bad blade, guides do not make one brand blade wobble.
>
>
>>
>>> so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
>>> perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.
No, I have done it with a Minimax MM16. Hard to believe but
experiencing this proved for me.
>>>
>>
>> Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
>> through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
>> stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
>> :-)
>>
>>
>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
Nor should you try, it is just an odd perk of having a top end band saw
and good blade. I would not normally do this but in a pinch...
>>>
>>
>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>> bandsaws available.
>>
>>
>
>
On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>>
>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
>> buy...
>>
>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>> --
>> Jeff
>
> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
>
Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.
I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
(I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open my
wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that the
bugger is starting to crack...)
-BR
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
>>>> SUCKS.
>>>>
>>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
>>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
>>>> buy...
>>>>
>>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>>>> --
>>>> Jeff
>>>
>>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
>>
>>The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
>>>
>>
>>Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
>>Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
>>replaced them with.
>>
>>I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
listings.
"John McGaw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 11/11/2016 3:51 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>>>>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>>>>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>>>>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
>>>>>> SUCKS.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>>>>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll
>>>>>> ever
>>>>>> buy...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>
>>>>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
>>>>
>>>> The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland
>>>> Hardware.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
>>>> Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
>>>> replaced them with.
>>>>
>>>> I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>>
>> Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
>> Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the
>> paid
>> listings.
>>
>>
>>
> For your purposes Highland Hardware = Highland Woodworking. If you are
> looking for their house brand resaw blade then it is in this neighborhood:
>
> http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx
>
> I find them to be pretty good blades overall but like any others they can
> start to get a bit 'funny' when they feel like it -- first they are
> tracking and cutting perfectly then they aren't.
Thank you.
On 11/11/16 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
> turning at all. No touch.
>
> How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do
> something ?
>
> Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.
>
> Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?
>
>
> Martin
The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting.
Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the
blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a Timberwolf
> in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
>
> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in it
> that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run clean.
> This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever buy...
>
> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
> --
> Jeff
After 30 minutes (or less) the tension may have changed. Tried
increasing/decreasing it?
On Thu, 10 Nov 2016 21:33:15 -0500
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
was it really half inch
you have clearly established your dislike for these blades
have an olson that seemed fine until i induced a set into it
took it off and uninduced the set and it seems to be ok
but most cuts are just for roughing stock for the lathe so not
too precise
if i ever need precision i will look at the widest my saw can take
but i will still keep my expectations low
what are you cutting and what are you making
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
>> isn't turning at all. No touch.
>
>
> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
> all.
>
+100points!!!
I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
>>>> bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>
>>>
>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>> guides at all.
>>>
>>
>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides
>> at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are
>> much more important than guides. I would go so far as to say
>> guides were invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy
>> woodworkers who don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>
>>
>
> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend
> back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what
> I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when
> I get new blade.
>
I stand by what I wrote.
After much research and experimentation, that's what I came to witness
as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp & true blade
(proper for intended purpose, as well!).
I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on each
blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With those things
being attained, the guides are pretty much irrelevant.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
>>> isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>
>>
>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
>> all.
>>
>
> +100points!!!
> I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
> Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
> important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
> invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
> don't take the time to set up their saws.
Congratulations, little drummer boi! Your gut-wrenching
ignorance is now permanently archived for the amusement of
future generations of woodworkers worldwide! LOLOK
http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
Please pardon me while I push my guts back through the
hernia hole that laughing at your post has caused me to do.
On 11/12/16 9:33 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
>>>> isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>
>>>
>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
>>> all.
>>>
>>
>> +100points!!!
>> I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
>> Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
>> important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
>> invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
>> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>
> Congratulations, little drummer boi! Your gut-wrenching
> ignorance is now permanently archived for the amusement of
> future generations of woodworkers worldwide! LOLOK
>
> http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900
>
> Please pardon me while I push my guts back through the
> hernia hole that laughing at your post has caused me to do.
>
Awww, how adorable.
I have another anonymous pussy, internet stalker troll.
Thank you, I'm flattered.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
>>>>>> bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>> guides at all.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
>>>> guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
>>>> true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
>>>> far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
>>>> manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
>>>> set up their saws.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
>>> bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
>>> that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
>>> test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>
>>
>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
>> that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
>> tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
>> purpose, as well!).
>>
>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
>> each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
>> those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
>> irrelevant.
>>
>>
> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...
When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?
> so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
> perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.
>
Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
:-)
> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>
It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 17:06:35 -0500
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> 1/2 the 14" saw says it can handle 3/4 but no one ever does.
have never tried resawing on mine and the first time i watched a video
of someone resawing was not sure what i was seeing
ok the guy had a much nicer setup but he was making cuts i did not think
were possible on a bandsaw
maybe a thicker kerf instead of a wider blade would help
> Christmas eve. About to resaw quite a bit of walnut, cherry and
> maple. They'll be more of the trays I did many years ago. A slightly
> different design. They entertain a lot so these will be nice.. they
> hold a wine glass and hors'doeuvres (sp?) . each looks different so
> you can identify your own tray (think plate and wine)
good idea
sounds useful
"Markem" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 13:51:39 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
>>>>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
>>>>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
>>>>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
>>>>>> SUCKS.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
>>>>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll
>>>>>> ever
>>>>>> buy...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>
>>>>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
>>>>
>>>>The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland
>>>>Hardware.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
>>>>Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
>>>>replaced them with.
>>>>
>>>>I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>>
>>Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
>>Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
>>listings.
>>
>>
>
> http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bandsaw-blades-accessories.aspx
For all who replied... Thank you. I already ordered a couple for my little
Rigid bandsaw. And some cool blocks. If they work out it will save me
another project. I was going to make a bearing roller setup for it like the
one on my metal cutting bandsaw.
On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
>>>>>>>> bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
>>>>>>> guides at all.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
>>>>>> guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
>>>>>> true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
>>>>>> far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
>>>>>> manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
>>>>>> set up their saws.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
>>>>> bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
>>>>> that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
>>>>> test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
>>>> that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
>>>> tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
>>>> purpose, as well!).
>>>>
>>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
>>>> each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
>>>> those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
>>>> irrelevant.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>>
>> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>>
>>
>>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...
>>
>> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
>> from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?
>>
>
> On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
> have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
>
> When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
> back, so the blade would never come off.
>
Yeah, I see what you're saying.
There are other factors involved in backing up in the kerf that aren't
present in forward cutting.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
>>>>>>>>> running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
>>>>>>>> need guides at all.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
>>>>>>> any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
>>>>>>> sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
>>>>>>> I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
>>>>>>> up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
>>>>>>> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
>>>>>> to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
>>>>>> least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
>>>>>> me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
>>>>> experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
>>>>> Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
>>>>> true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
>>>>>
>>>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
>>>>> any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
>>>>> true. With those things being attained, the guides are
>>>>> pretty much irrelevant.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>>>
>>> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>>>
>>>
>>>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
>>>> occassions...
>>>
>>> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
>>> you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
>>> misunderstand?
>>>
>>
>> On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
>> I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
>>
>> When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
>> moving back, so the blade would never come off.
>>
>
> Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
> backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.
>
By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/14/2016, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>
> >> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
> >> from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?
> >>
You obviously haven't even a cursory grasp of what the fuck
you are talking about, drummer boi.
> >
> > On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
> > have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
> >
> > When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
> > back, so the blade would never come off.
> >
>
> Yeah, I see what you're saying.
> There are other factors involved in backing up in the kerf that aren't
> present in forward cutting.
Sickening isn't it? Why sure it is. What a horrifying
existence one must have to suffer through, to troll a news
group with this non-stop spew of empty headed drivel. And
having one and one thing only on your agenda, that being to
draw attention to one's self. When one is this desperate for
the spotlight, any attention, good or bad, seems to be
perfectly acceptable and this has me scratching my head
trying to understand the mentality behind this behavior. My
only guess at this point would be that in order for one to
be able to stand looking in the mirror at themselves after
posting a barrage of self-admittedly idiotic messages as in
this case, it would take a complete breakdown of one's self
esteem. It has really got to suck big time to be this hard
up for attention eh?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
> on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
> (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
>
> You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
> blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
> is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
> thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
> ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track exactly
as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when
cutting.
On 11/18/16 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/15/2016 11:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/14/2016 8:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
>>>>>>>>>>>> running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
>>>>>>>>>>> need guides at all.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
>>>>>>>>>> any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
>>>>>>>>>> sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
>>>>>>>>>> I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
>>>>>>>>>> up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
>>>>>>>>>> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
>>>>>>>>> to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
>>>>>>>>> least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
>>>>>>>>> me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
>>>>>>>> experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
>>>>>>>> Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
>>>>>>>> true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
>>>>>>>> any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
>>>>>>>> true. With those things being attained, the guides are
>>>>>>>> pretty much irrelevant.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
>>>>>>> occassions...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
>>>>>> you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
>>>>>> misunderstand?
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
>>>>> I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
>>>>>
>>>>> When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
>>>>> moving back, so the blade would never come off.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
>>>> backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.
>>>>
>>>
>>> By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
>>> on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
>>> (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
>>>
>>> You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
>>> blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
>>> is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
>>> thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
>>> ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown.
>> I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove
>> the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was
>> not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel .
>> But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I
>> had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.
>>
>>
>>
>
> New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
> tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
> the Olson crap.
> https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o
>
> The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
> same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
> after taking 1/16 slice off.
>
> Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
> but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.
>
Welp, alrighty then! Get to cuttin'!
Glad it was cheap fix.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
> :-)
>
>
>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>
>
> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
> bandsaws available.
>
>
I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).
-BR
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:41:17 -0600, Leon wrote:
> Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
> are buying them. ;~)
>
> The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
> Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
> Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
> your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
> well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
> Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
> it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
> replaced to fit the Laguna.
As they say, YMMV. I have the Rikon and, once adjusted, haven't had any
problem with tracking on several different brands of blades. But I do
love my Woodslicer :-).
--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?
On 11/19/16 8:41 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/18/2016 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>
> Snip
>>>
>>>
>>
>> New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
>> tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
>> the Olson crap.
>> https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o
>>
>> The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
>> same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
>> after taking 1/16 slice off.
>>
>> Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
>> but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
> are buying them. ;~)
>
> The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
> Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
> Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
> your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
> well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
> Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
> it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
> replaced to fit the Laguna.
+1
Personally I've had bad luck with Olsen and TW on my MiniMax, but only
from a blade life perspective. It all comes down to what you cut and how
much wear is applied to the blade. Some steels are better than others
and some tooth designs are not appropriate for one application that may
not seem that different from the application they excel at.
-BR
On 11/19/16 8:51 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> .
>>> :-)
>>>
>>>
>>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>>> bandsaws available.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
>> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
>> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too
>> little).
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
>
> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
> blade.
I thought Lagunas had flat tires (maybe not...)
As a kid I first was introduced to "crowning" when noticing the wide
pulleys on dragster blowers had a curved profile. It works to keep the
belt centered since for some reason I don't quite understand the belt
likes to climb. I'm sure the same physics are in force for crowned band
saw wheels.
-BR
On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> .
>>>> :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>>>> bandsaws available.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
>>> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
>>> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>>
>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>> blade.
>
>
> Mattias Wandel explains this:
> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>
>
Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!
-BR
On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
:
>>>
>>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>>> blade.
>>
>>
>> Mattias Wandel explains this:
>> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>>
>>
>
> Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
> feedback control loop!
>
> -BR
>
>
My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.
-BR
On 11/22/16 11:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
>
>>>
>>
>> My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
>> across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
>> maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
>> machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
>> I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
>> the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
>> assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
>> under the center of the blade.
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
> Teeth off the front of the rubber?
Yep.
> How old is the saw?
2003
What brand?
MiniMax 16
I wonder if the tire is worn.
Nope, just SOP for these saws.
> Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
> down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.
I fried (melted) my tires when I was resawing some really tough wood
with a 1-1/4" 0.035" thick blade, about the max I'd ever try to tension
on that saw. Usually the tires are supposed to last "forever" (_they_
say), but other then the melted sections, the rubber was nice and
pliable. Bummer is new rubber ran $40 each.
>
> I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
> my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.
I could run in the center, but the teeth would tend to eat up the tire
surface given the minimal crown. I have a 1960's 14" Powermatic that is
more typical in that the blades need to run in the center. This saw has
flat machined wheels so the tires supply the crown. I replaced the
original rubber with urethane, which were also flat. The tire mfg.
suggested building up the crown with strips of tape placed in the center
of the wheel (under the tire), 1/4" strip on top of a 1/2" strip.
The crown is visible and the blade loves to seek out that high point.
That second saw lets me keep a 1/4" blade on the 14" saw for general
cutting and curves and leave the MM set up for resawing. BIG time saver
not having to swap out blades in the middle of a project.
-BR
>
>
>
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
> >>> On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
> >>>> I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
> >>>> it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
> >>>> I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
> >>>> Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
> >>>> SUCKS.
> >>>>
> >>>> After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
> >>>> it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
> >>>> clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
> >>>> buy...
> >>>>
> >>>> VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
> >>>> --
> >>>> Jeff
> >>>
> >>> Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.
> >>
> >>The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
> >>>
> >>
> >>Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
> >>Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
> >>replaced them with.
> >>
> >>I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
>
> Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
> Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
> listings.
For resawing the blade is 'Wood Slicer' and it's 'Highland Woodworking'
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx
For all other bandsaw blade needs/sizes I suggest you can't do better than the fine folk @
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm
On 11/14/2016 8:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
>>>>>>>>>> running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
>>>>>>>>> need guides at all.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
>>>>>>>> any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
>>>>>>>> sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
>>>>>>>> I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
>>>>>>>> up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
>>>>>>>> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
>>>>>>> to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
>>>>>>> least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
>>>>>>> me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
>>>>>> experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
>>>>>> Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
>>>>>> true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
>>>>>> any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
>>>>>> true. With those things being attained, the guides are
>>>>>> pretty much irrelevant.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>>>>
>>>> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
>>>>> occassions...
>>>>
>>>> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
>>>> you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
>>>> misunderstand?
>>>>
>>>
>>> On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
>>> I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
>>>
>>> When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
>>> moving back, so the blade would never come off.
>>>
>>
>> Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
>> backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.
>>
>
> By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
> on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
> (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
>
> You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
> blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
> is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
> thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
> ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
>
>
I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown.
I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove
the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was
not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel .
But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I
had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.
--
Jeff
On 11/15/2016 11:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/15/2016 8:26 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
>>> on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
>>> (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
>>>
>>> You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
>>> blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
>>> is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
>>> thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
>>> ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
>>
>> Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track
>> exactly
>> as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when
>> cutting.
>>
>>
>
> I don't find that to be true. If your guides are right where they should
> be the guide takes the pressure and does not change the tracking at all.
> And I assume this is because it is well tuned as well.
>
I wrote guides, but meant thrust bearing.
--
Jeff
On 11/15/2016 8:26 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
>> on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
>> (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
>>
>> You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
>> blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
>> is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
>> thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
>> ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
>
> Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track exactly
> as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when
> cutting.
>
>
I don't find that to be true. If your guides are right where they should
be the guide takes the pressure and does not change the tracking at all.
And I assume this is because it is well tuned as well.
--
Jeff
On 11/20/2016 7:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
> On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> .
>>>> :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
>>>> bandsaws available.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
>>> depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
>>> could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>>
>> Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
>> stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
>> ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
>> seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
>> blade.
>
>
> Mattias Wandel explains this:
> http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
>
>
Thank you. That explained tracking and at the end of the video another
witness that guides are not necessary per the comment about the band saw
mill that used no guides and had teeth on both sides of the blade for
sawing in both directions.
On 11/15/2016 11:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/14/2016 8:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>> On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
>>>>>>>>>>> running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
>>>>>>>>>> need guides at all.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> +100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
>>>>>>>>> any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
>>>>>>>>> sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
>>>>>>>>> I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
>>>>>>>>> up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
>>>>>>>>> don't take the time to set up their saws.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
>>>>>>>> to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
>>>>>>>> least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
>>>>>>>> me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
>>>>>>> experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
>>>>>>> Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
>>>>>>> true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
>>>>>>> any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
>>>>>>> true. With those things being attained, the guides are
>>>>>>> pretty much irrelevant.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
>>>>>
>>>>> Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
>>>>>> occassions...
>>>>>
>>>>> When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
>>>>> you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
>>>>> misunderstand?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
>>>> I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
>>>>
>>>> When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
>>>> moving back, so the blade would never come off.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
>>> backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.
>>>
>>
>> By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
>> on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
>> (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
>>
>> You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
>> blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
>> is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
>> thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
>> ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
>>
>>
>
> I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown.
> I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove
> the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was
> not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel .
> But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I
> had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.
>
>
>
New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
the Olson crap.
https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o
The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
after taking 1/16 slice off.
Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.
--
Jeff