Should be the same principles as in home theater design. DAGS on "home
theater acoustic design tips".
The link below also illustrates some options for sound isolation:
http://www.hometheatermag.com/printarchives.cgi?140
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Zac9b.347022$Oz4.131520@rwcrnsc54...
> Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
> I figgure the candadates are:
>
> 1. Doubled drywall.
>
> 2. Plywood.
>
> Thanks for the opinions.
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, Peter W. Meek
<[email protected]> wrote:
> If you really want a sound deadening wall
> you will have to isolate the noisy side
> from the quiet side. This usually means
> separate studs for the two sides.
>
> One good way is to make a wall with 2x6
> top and bottom plates, but 2x4 studs on
> 8 inch centers, alternating sides (giving
> you normal 16 centers on each side. This
> stops the low frequencies.
>
> Then you can weave a sound deadening blanket
> between the studs. A good blanket is lead
> sheet laminated to a "lossy" foam. This will
> take out the mid- to high-frequencies.
> http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/soundproofing/laminate.htm
> ...for example.
The isolated surfaces is exactly the way to go, but just spraying the
wall full of cellulose insulation is much easier and probably cheaper
than your blanket.
Kevin
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:09:21 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> And I considered your concern, so I did the following
>calculation: Dry sand weights about 100 lb/cu ft, which calculates out to
>about .7 psi per foot of depth, or about 5 1/2 psi for an eight-foot high
>wall. That doesn't seem like a lot to me...
Umm, that's 792 pounds per square foot at the bottom
of the wall. That sounds like a LOT to me. 957 pounds
of pull-away force for every foot of attachment where
the drywall is fastened to the studs of a normal 16"
on center wall. Even if you fastened it strongly enough
to the studs, that kind of pull might even split the
studs lengthways.
--
--Pete
"Peter W. Meek" <[email protected]>
http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/
If you can, build a second wall and hang cabinetes on it. Have a
second door, so you open one door and are in a very short hall with
maybe closets on each side. If your hot water heater is next to the
wall you want to sound proof, enclose it. Use solid core doors with
weather stripping.
Just more ideas for consideration.
Dan
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<Zac9b.347022> Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
>
> Thanks for the opinions.
Agreed. A layer of fire resistant over a layer of acoustic gypsum
mounted on resiliant clips will stop almost all the low and mid range
frequencies and good sealing will eliminate most of the highs.
Bob wrote:
> To reduce sound TRANSMISSION, heavier is better. A heavy, dense
> material provides a greater "impedance" mismatch with the air, decreasing
> acoustic coupling between the two media. So drywall it is, the thicker the
> better. For better performance yet, use two or more layers acoustically
> separated (by special rubber gizmos- check the drywall manufacturers or
> Sweets catalog). It's even more important to eliminate paths for the sound
> to "leak" through, like keyholes in doors. Even small holes allow a
> surprising amount through. Caulk everything. (Well, maybe not the locks!)
> Weather-strip doorsills.
> To reduce sound REFLECTION, and thus sound levels in the room with
> the source, use sound-deadening material like fiberglass or acoustic tile,
> or carpet with padding. This indirectly reduces the sound levels in the
> adjacent space.
> "Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:Zac9b.347022$Oz4.131520@rwcrnsc54...
>
>>Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
>>from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>>
>>I figgure the candadates are:
>>
>>1. Doubled drywall.
>>
>>2. Plywood.
>>
>>Thanks for the opinions.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com
Scott Moore wrote:
> Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
> I figgure the candadates are:
>
> 1. Doubled drywall.
>
> 2. Plywood.
>
> Thanks for the opinions.
Years ago, when we built an anechoic chamber for testing acoustic stuff in we
used alternating stud walls with a lead curtain "woven" through them.
The public health gestapo would probably ban that sort of stuff now, huh?
Jeff
--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone to
place the blame on."
Peter W. Meek wrote:
> If you really want a sound deadening wall
> you will have to isolate the noisy side
> from the quiet side. This usually means
> separate studs for the two sides.
>
> One good way is to make a wall with 2x6
> top and bottom plates, but 2x4 studs on
> 8 inch centers, alternating sides (giving
> you normal 16 centers on each side. This
> stops the low frequencies.
>
> Then you can weave a sound deadening blanket
> between the studs. A good blanket is lead
> sheet laminated to a "lossy" foam. This will
> take out the mid- to high-frequencies.
> http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/soundproofing/laminate.htm
> ...for example.
He's got it right!!!! Many years ago my parents bought a building and
converted it to art and music lesson studios. I was asked about
designing walls to separate practise rooms. Imagine one student
practising trumpet in one room and another doing harp in the adjacent
room. I came up with the same thing Peter suggested except that the 2x6
bottom and top plates were separated from floor and ceiling by a layer
of acoustic board and secured with as few nails as practical. The
insulation was just the usual "pink" but the acoustic blanket would
probably be better. It worked well. We never got a complaint.
Ted
"Peter W. Meek" wrote:
> On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:09:21 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > And I considered your concern, so I did the following
> >calculation: Dry sand weights about 100 lb/cu ft, which calculates out to
> >about .7 psi per foot of depth, or about 5 1/2 psi for an eight-foot high
> >wall. That doesn't seem like a lot to me...
>
> Umm, that's 792 pounds per square foot at the bottom
> of the wall. That sounds like a LOT to me. 957 pounds
> of pull-away force for every foot of attachment where
> the drywall is fastened to the studs of a normal 16"
> on center wall. Even if you fastened it strongly enough
> to the studs, that kind of pull might even split the
> studs lengthways.
Not to mention what putting a wet mixture against the backside of the sheetrock
could get you into...Shoosh!
Me thinks this isn't your finest hour Leo. (Ducking...)
Jeff
--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can keep smiling when things go wrong, you've thought of someone to
place the blame on."
>
>
> --
> --Pete
> "Peter W. Meek" <[email protected]>
> http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/
Egg cartons they are about a foot sq and by now probably
cost about 10 cents each. I used them to pack machine parts in when I had my
machine shop. I have heard of them used by garage bands to deaden sound.
Jim
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Zac9b.347022$Oz4.131520@rwcrnsc54...
> Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
> I figgure the candadates are:
>
> 1. Doubled drywall.
>
> 2. Plywood.
>
> Thanks for the opinions.
>
>
>
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 05:33:45 GMT, "Scott Moore" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
>from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
>I figgure the candadates are:
>
>1. Doubled drywall.
>
>2. Plywood.
Hi
To stop sound going through a wall you need mass
to stop sound in the room you need surface treatmment to the wall
ceiling & floor
you do say how the garage is attached to the house
but make the the walls heavy, biuls a brick wall or you could used
plaster board
Any gaps like a door will let the sound through
if there is a door then seal the frame and panel each side with
something heavy, not plaster board it will crack if you slam the door
try shhet steel , plywood
weight is want you want
John O'Connell
Customer support
-------------------------------------
O C Fabrication
Web page www.occuk.co.uk/fabs
Greetings and Salutations....
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 10:45:58 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r .
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 03:36:51 -0400, Gary Coffman <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
*snip*
>
>That was egg crate FOAM. Cardboard egg crates are also flammable, but
>not to the same extent.
>
>Barry
And, I suspect, if one were to spray them down with waterglass
on front and back before installing, that would cut down on the
flammability quite a bit too.
A bit over the top is this:
http://www.technology.niagarac.on.ca/students/rcain/design.html
(and here is a source for the foam pyramids)
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/foams/anechoic_wedge.asp
But it would work really well, and, I suspect, if one covers
the wall with grill cloth for speakers, it would not get that nasty
with dust, etc.
Regards
Dave Mundt
(and no...I am NOT serious).
Glass wool insulation bats, with drywall over.
Steve Rayner.
"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <<Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound
travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
> I figgure the candadates are:
>
> 1. Doubled drywall.
>
> 2. Plywood.>>
>
> I think homasote might be a better choice than either of those.
>
> Lee
>
>
> --
> To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
>
>
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 18:49:31 GMT, "Michael Daly"
<[email protected]> wrote:
|On 15-Sep-2003, Jeff Wisnia <[email protected]> wrote:
|
|> Years ago, when we built an anechoic chamber for testing acoustic stuff in we
|> used alternating stud walls with a lead curtain "woven" through them.
|
|I remember seeing a demonstration of the effectiveness of this many years ago.
|I keep wondering if there's another good substitute that is perceived safer.
|Aluminum foil is too light. Steel too stiff and springy (you don't want it to
vibrate).
|Lead was perfect in that it was heavy and really damped out vibration since it
|wasn't very elastic.
|
|Metal coated with plastic? Like old toothpaste tubes (aluminum, not the
|lead ones). That would seem about right. Does such a thing exist?
Depleted uranium.
Should be some one the Middle East surplus market by now.
Rex in Fort Worth
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 23:21:02 +1000, "jim sehr" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Egg cartons they are about a foot sq and by now probably
>cost about 10 cents each. I used them to pack machine parts in when I had my
>machine shop. I have heard of them used by garage bands to deaden sound.
>Jim
Those are *extremely* flamable. Remember the Great White fire?
Gary
> "Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok, thank you for all the answers. There has been a lot of good material
> to educate me.
> > Unforunately, I have had to discard the (otherwise good) suggestions that
> required
> >...
> > Right now, I admit I am leaning towards doing the double drywall, but not
> the channel
> > thing, because it would cause problems whenever I wanted to mount
> something on the
> > wall. But the idea interests me.
There aren't a whole lot of continuous loud high-frequency metal shop
sounds, just the occasional angle grinder and shop vac. Not like a
wood shop.
Anyway it takes only another inch to make a staggerred double wall.
Fir out the top and bottom plates an inch, then build another 2x4 wall
with studs at the halfway spacing an inch out from the existing
drywall, and hang the new drywall from that.
Anyway if you need to hang stuff on the wall, make a plywood sandwich.
Sheath the wall with plywood or OSB, then drywall over that.
Scott,
The z channel and double drywall (with insulation between house and
garage) will work to cut down the airborn sound transmission but since
the garage and house share the same slab the vibration induced sound
will still be transmitted. The air space between the two layers of
drywall is the main source of the sound absorption. Remember though
that you will need to seal up all air leaks between the two rooms;
every single one, no exceptions. You may also need to install a
different door between the house and garage. If you want to reduce
the vibration induced sound you will need to decouple the slab in the
garage from the house. You can do that by cutting out a small stip of
the slab (say an inch wide) and fill it with rubber. If you don't
want to do that then consider using vibration isolation mounts between
your machines and the floor; you will still have the same anchorage
properties but you'll effectively isolate the machine from the
concrete slab.
jim sehr <[email protected]> scribed in
<[email protected]>:
>Egg cartons they are about a foot sq and by now probably
>cost about 10 cents each. I used them to pack machine parts in
>when I had my machine shop. I have heard of them used by garage
>bands to deaden sound. Jim
egg cartons do not make any difference to sound transmission, they're
not heavy enough. at best they will absorb a little high frequency.
to stop sound going from one place to another, you need a combination
of absorbsion and reflection. first layer absorbs as much as it can,
next layer reflects the rest (brick wall is good). if the sound can
vibrate the reflective layer, you will hear the soudn on theother
side.
egg cartons cannot do any of this. forget em
do a Google search for things like
'drum shield'
'drum gobo'
'band practice noise absorbtion'
etc
swarf, steam and wind
--
David Forsyth -:- the email address is real /"\
http://terrapin.ru.ac.za/~iwdf/welcome.html \ /
ASCII Ribbon campaign against HTML E-Mail > - - - - - - -> X
If you receive email saying "Send this to everyone you know," / \
PLEASE pretend you don't know me.
Roy Smith wrote: Have you actually tried this? I'd be worried that the
sheetrock wasn't strong enough to support the pressure of the sand pushing
out from the inside of the wall.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Actually, I have not. And I considered your concern, so I did the following
calculation: Dry sand weights about 100 lb/cu ft, which calculates out to
about .7 psi per foot of depth, or about 5 1/2 psi for an eight-foot high
wall. That doesn't seem like a lot to me-- since the saving to be had by
using sand are considerable, compared to all the other ideas suggested, I
have two ideas. Nail sheetrock to two 2x4's to make a simulated wall
section 16" on centers. Stand it up and pour it full of sand. See what
happens. If you want to reduce the bursting tendency of sand, you could mix
a little Portland cement and water with it--not to make real mortar--just to
make it set up to a crusty concoction, that would hold up its own weight.
Then, pour the walls in stages, allowing the stuff to set between pours, so
you never have the full hydrostatic pressure of eight feet of sand against
the sheet rock. This wall would behave the same as a "tilt-up," and would
not burst.
I figure that a 10 foot wall would need about one yard of sand. Think of
the savings, compared to staggered studs, lead sheeting, or special spacers,
etc., plus all the labor to build these systems.
If you have the wall open, split the studs with a circular saw. Just make a
cut the lenght of the stud top to bottom down the middle. It will give the
isolated wall at no cost. Be careful around any wiring! Add sound batts,
then 1 layer of sound board and 1 of rock then finish. If it's still too
noisy you could isolate the machine on the floor the same way, by sawing all
the way through the concrete slab and filling the crack with acoustic caulk.
No cost except the rental on the concrete saw. Or give the better half a
headset.
Tom
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, thank you for all the answers. There has been a lot of good material
to educate me.
> Unforunately, I have had to discard the (otherwise good) suggestions that
required
> building/rebuilding the wall from scratch, for the simple reason that I am
putting the
> garage side wallboard back on an existing wall, so the question is mostly
about how to
> replace that surface with noise in mind.
>
> What I gather is that the best way is to double up the drywall. The only
isolation idea
> that can be retrofitted to existing walls is the "resilient channel"
mounting for the wall.
> I was able to find resilient channel locally, so that part is fine.
However, I have some
> questions about resilient channel use that some of you might be able to
answer.
>
> 1. Is resilient channel really able to take the weight of doubled drywall
(thats about an
> inch of drywall) ? The kind I saw locally was the single sided mount, not
the U shape
> channel.
>
> 2. Is there really that much to gain from that kind of isolation ? Let me
explain. My
> shop consists of heavy machinery (mill, lathe, grinder) on the cement
floor. The
> living room, which is behind the adjoining wall, sits on the same cement
(with
> padding and carpet of course). So it seems to me that there is already a
major
> conduction path that I can't really do anything about. I'm not really
interested
> in isolating the machines from the cement floor, since I am fond of
bolting and leveling
> the machines to the concrete.
>
> 3. Does the resilient channel create a wall with considerable flex to it,
or is it
> fairly stiff ?
>
> Right now, I admit I am leaning towards doing the double drywall, but not
the channel
> thing, because it would cause problems whenever I wanted to mount
something on the
> wall. But the idea interests me.
>
>
All good suggestions from Peter. Concrete block works very well. To add to
an existing wall, apply sound board (Homosote) and 5/8" drywall, one or two
layers. Resilient furring channel can be used. Use acoustic caulk at all the
cracks, sound seals at the doors. I used to have a book published by US
Gypsum, a drywall maker that spec'd various wall constructions for sound
walls among others. A Google search might turn up something. I built a 12
screen movie theater that used double studs, Fiberglas sound batts and three
layers of 5/8" rock on each side and one layer in the middle to isolate the
theaters. That worked real well. It all depends on budget and available
room.
Tom
> Indeed the double wall and the 2 layers of 5/8" wallboard are your
> best bet. You can go one further and attach the drywall using metal
> "resilient channel" standoffs
I hear that this stuff works well, although I've only seen it used once and
have never personally installed it. Certainly it would improve on the
process I suggested.
Got a lot of answers, thank you. Reading and thinking about them.
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:Zac9b.347022$Oz4.131520@rwcrnsc54...
> Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
> I figgure the candadates are:
>
> 1. Doubled drywall.
>
> 2. Plywood.
>
> Thanks for the opinions.
>
>
>
I was a contractor, and faced exactly this problem for a client. The client
wanted an effective but inexpensive solution that didn't take a lot of
interior space. My solution was the following, which the client found
satisfactory:
1) I first sealed the old wall to avoid any air exchange that would transmit
sound. I also went into the shopside ceiling and heavily blocked and sealed
the space between joists.
2) Then I built a new studwall by turning the studs sideways and using a 2x2
for sill and plate. I firmly attached this to floor and ceiling, but floated
it away from the old wall by about 1/2" without attachment. I filled this
new wall space with thin unbacked insulation until it was well-packed.
3) To the new wall, I glued and screwed 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum wallboard
without furring strips between.
The result was inexpensive and was very effective. No structural
modifications were necessary, and the loss of floorspace in the shop was
only ~3.25"
Post-script: The client had bolted his mill and lathe to the floor, but
found that he had to put them on laminated wood platforms overlaying rubber
pads to avoid sound transmission directly through the concrete floor to the
rest of the house.
Prior to drywalling - fill the cavity with a dense insulation.
Double wall with drywall. You need and want as much sound deadening mass
between your noise source and where it will travel. This will also provide
you a 2 hour rated fire rating.
Jim
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Zac9b.347022$Oz4.131520@rwcrnsc54...
> Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
> from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>
> I figgure the candadates are:
>
> 1. Doubled drywall.
>
> 2. Plywood.
>
> Thanks for the opinions.
>
>
>
Resilient channel can be very effective, IF installed properly (not
difficult but there is definitely a right way and several wrong ways). Do
some Internet searching on installation techniques. Here are a couple of
links to get started.
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/channel.htm
http://www.usg.com/design_solutions/2_3_4_acoustictips.asp
http://www.usg.com/Expert_Advice/pdf/handbook_complete.pdf
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=%22resilient+channel%22
You will also want to learn about 'acoustic sealant' and the various types
of expanding foams available in aerosol cans for sealing ALL joints, cracks,
utility perforations, etc. Connecting doors must be weatherstripped, sill
seal must be effective. Read up also about how to deal with 'flanking
noise'. You have received some suggestions about how to decouple the floor
slab, should it prove necessary (you may want to get on-site professional
advice here to avoid cutting utilities or compromising structural
integrity). Similar concerns may also pertain to vibrations transmitted
from the shop ceiling and exterior walls through their structural
connections to the house.
David Merrill
"Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, thank you for all the answers. There has been a lot of good material
to educate me.
> Unforunately, I have had to discard the (otherwise good) suggestions that
required
> building/rebuilding the wall from scratch, for the simple reason that I am
putting the
> garage side wallboard back on an existing wall, so the question is mostly
about how to
> replace that surface with noise in mind.
>
> What I gather is that the best way is to double up the drywall. The only
isolation idea
> that can be retrofitted to existing walls is the "resilient channel"
mounting for the wall.
> I was able to find resilient channel locally, so that part is fine.
However, I have some
> questions about resilient channel use that some of you might be able to
answer.
>
> 1. Is resilient channel really able to take the weight of doubled drywall
(thats about an
> inch of drywall) ? The kind I saw locally was the single sided mount, not
the U shape
> channel.
>
> 2. Is there really that much to gain from that kind of isolation ? Let me
explain. My
> shop consists of heavy machinery (mill, lathe, grinder) on the cement
floor. The
> living room, which is behind the adjoining wall, sits on the same cement
(with
> padding and carpet of course). So it seems to me that there is already a
major
> conduction path that I can't really do anything about. I'm not really
interested
> in isolating the machines from the cement floor, since I am fond of
bolting and leveling
> the machines to the concrete.
>
> 3. Does the resilient channel create a wall with considerable flex to it,
or is it
> fairly stiff ?
>
> Right now, I admit I am leaning towards doing the double drywall, but not
the channel
> thing, because it would cause problems whenever I wanted to mount
something on the
> wall. But the idea interests me.
>
>
"Dan Caster" <[email protected]> wrote in message:
<snip>
>If your hot water heater is next to the
> wall you want to sound proof, enclose it. Use solid core doors with
> weather stripping.
Just don't forget that if your hot water heater is gas, you need sufficient
make-up air for combustion (louvers, louvered door, large gap at floor.)
Just a reminder.
Jim
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 17:34:11 -0400, Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Leo Lichtman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Massive walls, and "decoupling" the structure (by alternating studs) work
>> best. However, if the house and shop are already built, then I suggest a
>> cheap and effective solution would be to bore access holes in the wall, and
>> pour it full of sand.
>
>Have you actually tried this? I'd be worried that the sheetrock wasn't
>strong enough to support the pressure of the sand pushing out from the
>inside of the wall.
It isn't. ;-) Replace the sheetrock with 1/2" plywood then top the ply
with sheetrock. As others have mentioned doors are a bigger problem.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 23:21:02 +1000, "jim sehr" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Egg cartons they are about a foot sq and by now probably
>cost about 10 cents each.
They're also flammable. <G>
Barry
and pray that cousin Eddie doesn't punch any more holes in the walls! :)
dave
Leo Lichtman wrote:
snip
However, if the house and shop are already built, then I suggest a
> cheap and effective solution would be to bore access holes in the wall, and
> pour it full of sand. You get mass and damping--and you don't have to
> rebuild anything.
>
>
"Leo Lichtman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Massive walls, and "decoupling" the structure (by alternating studs) work
> best. However, if the house and shop are already built, then I suggest a
> cheap and effective solution would be to bore access holes in the wall, and
> pour it full of sand.
Have you actually tried this? I'd be worried that the sheetrock wasn't
strong enough to support the pressure of the sand pushing out from the
inside of the wall.
Peter gave the best answer: alternating studs so that each side of the
wall rests on a different set of studs. then of course, the heavier the
material hung on the studs, the better.
dave
Scott Moore wrote:
> Got a lot of answers, thank you. Reading and thinking about them.
>
> "Scott Moore" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:Zac9b.347022$Oz4.131520@rwcrnsc54...
>
>>Anyone have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
>>from the shop in the garage to the rest of the house ?
>>
>>I figgure the candadates are:
>>
>>1. Doubled drywall.
>>
>>2. Plywood.
>>
>>Thanks for the opinions.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
"Roy Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leo Lichtman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Massive walls, and "decoupling" the structure (by alternating studs)
work
> > best. However, if the house and shop are already built, then I suggest
a
> > cheap and effective solution would be to bore access holes in the wall,
and
> > pour it full of sand.
>
> Have you actually tried this? I'd be worried that the sheetrock wasn't
> strong enough to support the pressure of the sand pushing out from the
> inside of the wall.
\
Me too. I wouldn't do it to my house.
--
Jim in NC
"Jeff Wisnia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
> Years ago, when we built an anechoic chamber for testing acoustic stuff in
we
> used alternating stud walls with a lead curtain "woven" through them.
>
> The public health gestapo would probably ban that sort of stuff now, huh?
>
> Jeff
>
I worked at a construction site for a x-ray lab. On the walls they used what
looked like plain old sheet rock, but it had a layer of lead sheet under the
paper on one face. It probably would be wonderful stuff for noise too. The
gent installing it said it was spendy!
Greg