The bathroom cabinet I am building has 7 adjustable (with shelf pins)
5/16" glass shelves.
The sides and back are painted birch plywood and the face frame is poplar and
the dimensions are 18" x 9" (the cabinet is pretty square).
What is a good margin to leave so that I won't have issues with shelves
sticking due to expansion, paint layers (over time), measurement
tolerance etc.
I made a blank of 1/4" plywood that had 1/16" margins (17 7/8 x 8 7/8)
which certainly would give enough room but I'm wondering whether it
would be wise to tighten them up a bit to say decrease the margin to
1/32".
So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
(I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
people who have built such cabinets before)
On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 08:23:36 -0700, blueman wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> The bathroom cabinet I am building has 7 adjustable (with shelf pins)
> 5/16" glass shelves.
>
> The sides and back are painted birch plywood and the face frame is poplar and
> the dimensions are 18" x 9" (the cabinet is pretty square).
>
> What is a good margin to leave so that I won't have issues with shelves
> sticking due to expansion, paint layers (over time), measurement
> tolerance etc.
>
> I made a blank of 1/4" plywood that had 1/16" margins (17 7/8 x 8 7/8)
> which certainly would give enough room but I'm wondering whether it
> would be wise to tighten them up a bit to say decrease the margin to
> 1/32".
>
> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
> people who have built such cabinets before)
5/16 glass is quite strong, I don't thing tempered is required unless there
is going to be lots of impacts on it. Also consider that 1/16" is not
uncommon for the cutting tolerance of the shelves so add that in.
-Bruce
On Jan 9, 1:41=A0pm, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> writes:
> > On 1/9/2012 11:24 AM, blueman wrote:
> >> Swingman<[email protected]> =A0writes:
>
> >>> On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
>
> >>>> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a si=
tuation.
> >>>> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input =
from
> >>>> people who have built such cabinets before)
>
> >>> I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the widt=
h
> >>> between the interior end panels.
>
> >>> If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for
> >>> the thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin
> >>> standard, simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will
> >>> generally solve the problem.
>
> >> The shelf pins I use don't have a side lip
> >>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D112
>
> >> So i was thinking 1/16th clearance on each side would be enough.
>
> >> Any reason not to use the above style pins?
>
> > I prefer these, because, IMO, their design adds a bit more shear
> > strength to loaded shelves when the bottom of the "L" is down, but
> > YMMV:
>
> >http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D108
>
> I could see how those could be helpful on heavy shelves.
> But these are 18x9" medicine cabinet type shelves - so no heavy loads -
> mostly medicine bottles, wife's makeup stuff, toilet paper, tissue
> boxes, etc.
> I wouldn't think more than 10lbs/shelf max.
>
> And since the shelves are glass I prefer smaller, less obtrusive pins.
>
> But for heavy wooden book shelves, I see why the other style would have
> benefits...- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
For less obstrusive, have you considered either of these clear pins?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D1343
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D111
On 1/9/2012 11:24 AM, blueman wrote:
> Swingman<[email protected]> writes:
>
>> On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
>>
>>> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
>>> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
>>> people who have built such cabinets before)
>>
>> I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the width
>> between the interior end panels.
>>
>> If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for
>> the thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin
>> standard, simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will
>> generally solve the problem.
>
> The shelf pins I use don't have a side lip
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112
>
> So i was thinking 1/16th clearance on each side would be enough.
>
> Any reason not to use the above style pins?
I prefer these, because, IMO, their design adds a bit more shear
strength to loaded shelves when the bottom of the "L" is down, but YMMV:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=108
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
If existing glass shelf tolerances have worked fine, why not continue
to use those tolerances with the new shelves.
I would assume if you pay for the edges to be polished, the fee is for
any number of edges. I think the fee is for polishing, period, not
dependent on the number of edges. Otherwise, the fee is an hourly
fee. Any additional fee can't be that much to complain about....
5-10 minutes to polish 7 small panes!
Sonny
On 1/9/2012 9:17 AM, Sonny wrote:
> If existing glass shelf tolerances have worked fine, why not continue
> to use those tolerances with the new shelves.
>
> I would assume if you pay for the edges to be polished, the fee is for
> any number of edges. I think the fee is for polishing, period, not
> dependent on the number of edges. Otherwise, the fee is an hourly
> fee. Any additional fee can't be that much to complain about....
> 5-10 minutes to polish 7 small panes!
>
> Sonny
edge work is usually paid by the linear inch.
On 1/9/2012 8:23 AM, blueman wrote:
> The bathroom cabinet I am building has 7 adjustable (with shelf pins)
> 5/16" glass shelves.
>
> The sides and back are painted birch plywood and the face frame is poplar and
> the dimensions are 18" x 9" (the cabinet is pretty square).
>
> What is a good margin to leave so that I won't have issues with shelves
> sticking due to expansion, paint layers (over time), measurement
> tolerance etc.
>
> I made a blank of 1/4" plywood that had 1/16" margins (17 7/8 x 8 7/8)
> which certainly would give enough room but I'm wondering whether it
> would be wise to tighten them up a bit to say decrease the margin to
> 1/32".
>
> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
> people who have built such cabinets before)
yes, order them tempered. get the dimensions right though, as you can't
get them recut.
blueman wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
>>
>>> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a
>>> situation. (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted
>>> to get input from people who have built such cabinets before)
>>
>> I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the
>> width between the interior end panels.
>>
>> If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for
>> the thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin
>> standard, simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will
>> generally solve the problem.
>
> The shelf pins I use don't have a side lip
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112
>
> So i was thinking 1/16th clearance on each side would be enough.
All you need is enough to get them on the pins.
> Any reason not to use the above style pins?
None at all.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 1/9/2012 12:41 PM, blueman wrote:
> Swingman<[email protected]> writes:
>
>> On 1/9/2012 11:24 AM, blueman wrote:
>>> Swingman<[email protected]> writes:
>>>
>>>> On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
>>>>> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
>>>>> people who have built such cabinets before)
>>>>
>>>> I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the width
>>>> between the interior end panels.
>>>>
>>>> If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for
>>>> the thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin
>>>> standard, simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will
>>>> generally solve the problem.
>>>
>>> The shelf pins I use don't have a side lip
>>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112
>>>
>>> So i was thinking 1/16th clearance on each side would be enough.
>>>
>>> Any reason not to use the above style pins?
>>
>> I prefer these, because, IMO, their design adds a bit more shear
>> strength to loaded shelves when the bottom of the "L" is down, but
>> YMMV:
>>
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=108
>
> I could see how those could be helpful on heavy shelves.
> But these are 18x9" medicine cabinet type shelves - so no heavy loads -
> mostly medicine bottles, wife's makeup stuff, toilet paper, tissue
> boxes, etc.
> I wouldn't think more than 10lbs/shelf max.
>
> And since the shelves are glass I prefer smaller, less obtrusive pins.
>
> But for heavy wooden book shelves, I see why the other style would have
> benefits...
Yours will work just fine for that application, a point which I intended
to make, but got sidetracked on a local issue (chewing out local
officials via mail for their lack of planning to deal with extreme event
issues) :)
I would allow just a bit more than 1/16" on either side ... 1/8" would
be more advantageous IME with lots of shelves in beaucoup cabinets and
houses.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
Swingman <[email protected]> writes:
> On 1/9/2012 11:24 AM, blueman wrote:
>> Swingman<[email protected]> writes:
>>
>>> On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
>>>
>>>> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
>>>> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
>>>> people who have built such cabinets before)
>>>
>>> I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the width
>>> between the interior end panels.
>>>
>>> If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for
>>> the thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin
>>> standard, simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will
>>> generally solve the problem.
>>
>> The shelf pins I use don't have a side lip
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112
>>
>> So i was thinking 1/16th clearance on each side would be enough.
>>
>> Any reason not to use the above style pins?
>
> I prefer these, because, IMO, their design adds a bit more shear
> strength to loaded shelves when the bottom of the "L" is down, but
> YMMV:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=108
I could see how those could be helpful on heavy shelves.
But these are 18x9" medicine cabinet type shelves - so no heavy loads -
mostly medicine bottles, wife's makeup stuff, toilet paper, tissue
boxes, etc.
I wouldn't think more than 10lbs/shelf max.
And since the shelves are glass I prefer smaller, less obtrusive pins.
But for heavy wooden book shelves, I see why the other style would have
benefits...
Swingman <[email protected]> writes:
> On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
>
>> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
>> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
>> people who have built such cabinets before)
>
> I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the width
> between the interior end panels.
>
> If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for
> the thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin
> standard, simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will
> generally solve the problem.
The shelf pins I use don't have a side lip
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112
So i was thinking 1/16th clearance on each side would be enough.
Any reason not to use the above style pins?
blueman <[email protected]> writes:
> The bathroom cabinet I am building has 7 adjustable (with shelf pins)
> 5/16" glass shelves.
>
> The sides and back are painted birch plywood and the face frame is poplar and
> the dimensions are 18" x 9" (the cabinet is pretty square).
Also, should one use tempered glass for such a situation?
I am planning on ordering polished edges at least for the front edge. Is
it common to polish all edges or is that likely to be a waste of money
and should I just go with polishing the visible front one.
Anything else that one should consider when ordering glass for shelves
for a bathroom cabinet?
Note I am planning on using 5/16th glass to match the thickness of some
existing glass shelves in the bathroom.
On 1/9/2012 9:23 AM, blueman wrote:
> So what is a standard margin for a good quality cabinet in such a situation.
> (I know this is not a scientific question but I wanted to get input from
> people who have built such cabinets before)
I typically make shelves 1/4" - 5/16" narrower in width than the width
between the interior end panels.
If you do have trouble, due to the shelves being a bit too wide for the
thickness of the doubled (one on each side), typical shelf pin standard,
simply turning all four shelf pins upside down will generally solve the
problem.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop