On Monday, August 22, 2016 at 10:05:46 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> >Thanks for the good info! I'll try epoxy first, since I have it on hand.
> > If I can't make that work, I'll try the specialized product.
> >Mike
>
>
> Chair Doctor needs to soak into the wood to be effective -
> if the wood is totally clogged with previous glue or epoxy -
> Chair Doctor is not the best choice.
> You might wish to use epoxy on the loosest joints and use Chair
> Doctor on the slightly loose joints - prior to other glues or epoxy.
> Good luck.
> John T.
John, I think I will be using both. We bought several chairs for a studio and they have varying degrees of issues. Thanks! Mike
On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 3:30:14 PM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
> On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 1:41:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> > I've heard a lot different things about this: yellow glue, epoxy, goril=
la glue, and so on. I also heard some good things about a really good woodw=
orker's hot glue gun. What's the final word on this? What really works? So=
me of the loose legs are a nice tight fit but others are not.
> >=20
> > Thanks,
> >=20
> > Mike
>=20
> There is no single glue that will do everything (with the possible except=
ion of epoxy) I had a brief flirtation with Gorilla Glue a few years ago. =
It seems its touted waterproof capabilities greatly out distance reality, =
as every exterior project I built with it (as opposed to Titbond III or epo=
xy) fell apart after a few months.
>=20
> If I were fixing a chair, epoxy would be my first choice. If the mortise=
were loose, I would shim it with veneer, making sure the epoxy was on both=
sides of the veneer.
Deb and John, Thanks for the good info! I'll try epoxy first, since I have=
it on hand. If I can't make that work, I'll try the specialized product.
Mike
On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 1:41:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> I've heard a lot different things about this: yellow glue, epoxy, gorilla=
glue, and so on. I also heard some good things about a really good woodwor=
ker's hot glue gun. What's the final word on this? What really works? Some=
of the loose legs are a nice tight fit but others are not.
>=20
> Thanks,
>=20
> Mike
There is no single glue that will do everything (with the possible exceptio=
n of epoxy) I had a brief flirtation with Gorilla Glue a few years ago. I=
t seems its touted waterproof capabilities greatly out distance reality, as=
every exterior project I built with it (as opposed to Titbond III or epoxy=
) fell apart after a few months.
If I were fixing a chair, epoxy would be my first choice. If the mortise w=
ere loose, I would shim it with veneer, making sure the epoxy was on both s=
ides of the veneer.
On Monday, August 22, 2016 at 10:54:11 AM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
> On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 3:30:14 PM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
> > On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 1:41:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> > > I've heard a lot different things about this: yellow glue, epoxy, gor=
illa glue, and so on. I also heard some good things about a really good woo=
dworker's hot glue gun. What's the final word on this? What really works? =
Some of the loose legs are a nice tight fit but others are not.
> > >=20
> > > Thanks,
> > >=20
> > > Mike
> >=20
> > There is no single glue that will do everything (with the possible exce=
ption of epoxy) I had a brief flirtation with Gorilla Glue a few years ago=
. It seems its touted waterproof capabilities greatly out distance reality=
, as every exterior project I built with it (as opposed to Titbond III or e=
poxy) fell apart after a few months.
> >=20
> > If I were fixing a chair, epoxy would be my first choice. If the morti=
se were loose, I would shim it with veneer, making sure the epoxy was on bo=
th sides of the veneer.
>=20
> Deb and John, Thanks for the good info! I'll try epoxy first, since I ha=
ve it on hand. If I can't make that work, I'll try the specialized product.
>=20
If you can't make the epoxy work, put down the stir stick and step away=20
from the workbench. ;-)
Tip: Coat any surface where you don't want to sand/scrape/chip the epoxy
away from with a thin layer of Vaseline. For example, put Vaseline on the
exposed portions of the legs near the glue joint. Any squeeze out will
not adhere to the Vaseline and will be easy to wipe away. (Keep future
plans for finishing in mind before you do this. The Vaseline could impact
that part of the project.)
When the kids and I were building Soap Box Derby cars and needed to epoxy
items that involved bolts (nuts or threaded steel plates) we would coat
the threads with Vaseline. We could then use the bolts to align and/or
clamp the object without fear of the bolt and the part becoming one.
On Sun, 21 Aug 2016 11:41:16 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've heard a lot different things about this: yellow glue, epoxy, gorilla glue, and so on.
>I also heard some good things about a really good woodworker's hot glue gun.
>What's the final word on this? What really works?
>Some of the loose legs are a nice tight fit but others are not.
>Thanks,
>Mike
I've used this with good results.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?cat=1,110&p=30261
John T.
>Thanks for the good info! I'll try epoxy first, since I have it on hand.
> If I can't make that work, I'll try the specialized product.
>Mike
Chair Doctor needs to soak into the wood to be effective -
if the wood is totally clogged with previous glue or epoxy -
Chair Doctor is not the best choice.
You might wish to use epoxy on the loosest joints and use Chair
Doctor on the slightly loose joints - prior to other glues or epoxy.
Good luck.
John T.